My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[Low Elco]

If it makes you feel better, every ounce of the primer on Yeller was shot with the big gun from that kit, with a 1.8 tip. I can recommend Nason epoxy primer (sticky, but good) for bare metal and Featherfill 2.0 for hi-build surfacer. It shoots good! Great for all kinds of GP stuff. I killed one of the noisy craftsman compressors doing the metalwork on the cab. Got a IR 2-stage v-twin 80 gal off clist. It's niiiiice. Suspension parts look good! Git up tha hill and git ta whackin'! Winter's a-comin!

[jlsanborn]

We did some whackin allright! Found the grand-daddy doug fir. Ended up breaking the truck tho! The Boy did a nice roll back hard on the gas with prolly 2500lbs loaded and another 2500 on the line in 4x4 low. Not his fault. The road was loose and getting real messed up. We had the second piece right to the edge of the road (the stump is about 150' from the road's edge, down a steep bank) and I told him to give it one more tug. Anyway, sounds like the gov-lock let go. We managed to get the rest of our load and limp home but it was NASTY sounding. In open mode the truck wouldn't move but then it'd lock (CRUNCH!!!) and we'd be rolling. Even a slight turn tho and holy smokes. Wasn't pretty. So, I'm working on the wrong truck again today! From what I can tell, the 14 bolt full floaters are basically the same for 3/4ton and 1 ton in those years so I'll see what I can find on craigslist.

[Low Elco]

Daaaang, if that's firewood, you better have one helluva splitter! Sorry about the truck!
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[jlsanborn]

The splitter is the tree hugger in the first picture! His name is Manuel. Got the crummy in the shop and the stank oil is draining. Here's my $1000 tires! Damn he's hard on $hit!

[jlsanborn]

Badaboom-badabing!!! Fixed the wrong truck. Test drove and all. Here's a few pics. Found a nice gov-lock outta a 454 burban at the bone-yard for $51. Cover gasket and new stank oil $35. Total time was less than 8 hrs. We'll get the other half of grand-daddy next Saturday! Next pics are some other gems they've got.

[jlsanborn]

[jlsanborn]

So clearly, the "therory of open mode vs. locked mode" is bull$hit. When all those chunks were "flowing" around in that carrier it was "open mode". Once they wadded up into a knot that was "locked mode". It's amazing we made it home on the rear end and didn't have to go FWD! We even yarded that last log the rest of the way out on that heavy-duty $hit.

Chevy runs deep, WAY deep!

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Sorry to hear about the truck man, but anything can happen when you work 'em that hard ! Cool pics of the bone yard !

[Low Elco]

Did it kill the gear too? You're gutsier than me, i's eskeered of rearends, and Gawd, that stink! Hope you're back to dominating the forest soon!
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[Low Elco]

Ps- cool yard!
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[jlsanborn]

Put the original ring gear on the new carrier and didn't have to touch the pinion. Did my best to set the lash and preload but certainly am no rearend expert. I can say tho that its much tighter than what we had before. As soon as we got it oiled up we took it down the dirt road. It definately locks!

[jlsanborn]

The boy is going to Skill Center taking Automotive Technology. Soon he'll know more than all of us! On Wednesday's he's got two hours between Skill Center and school and just happens to drive right by the bone-yard. "Hmmmm what can I do for two hours?" How bout snag me one of them 1-1/4" front swaybars off a 3/4 ton!? $9.00

I'm still a week from funds on the VeeWee sale (out of state check). After that you should see this thread stuck on the top! We have a few debates that we'll be throwing on here. Upholstery, paint, motor, etc.... I'm certain that I'm gonna run into lots of things that I haven't even discovered yet and am glad to be here!

The Boy says the swaybar was mounted to the frame of the '80 sumthin burban with some hat brackets on the frame (riveted on). Is there an aftermarket setup for this or can I fab something easy? Needs new bushings too.

[Low Elco]

Cool! I have the same thing for LBT. Tell him to go back and get the hat thingies that hold the rubber. You'll need em. If you're going WAY down, screw the hats to the framerail. If you're going a little down, get shortened frame mounts from CPP. Or make some, they ain't rocket science. There should be holes in the a arms for the hat thingies.
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[jlsanborn]

Thanks Elco! I found a "kit" at ECE that as new bushings (these are roached) the straps, some "adapters" for lowered applications and all new hardware for $50. Not sure what I'll do just yet. I think I'll just get it painted up then wait til it's sitting at actual ride height and see what needs to be done.

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Oh Yeah ! thats the same sway bar I went with. alot beefier than the stock 1/2 ton.

[jlsanborn]

Yay! Half-a$$ cleaned the shop! It's always a damn $hit-hole and I just had to put a broom down before I got to doing anything. It's about 50% shop and 50% storage shed but I've got plans for that in the future.

I'm doing just a few small touches on the cab and now draggin out the rest of the body parts to finish up. I sure hope I know what the H-E-double hockey sticks I'm doing! Never really done any body work. I know I effin hate it tho! Luckily I'm in good shape. I've done very little metal work and there's really no rust to speak of. The truck has less than 80k original miles and was driven through some major "tar based" road construction. That's the best undercoating I've ever seen and is a BEAR to chip off. I'm stripping and shaping with P40, clean up with P80 and finish with P180. All I've got is a wood block, then my electric RO and Rosie Palm! I'm super anxious to build my "booth" and lay some primer down man!

I found a local "blaster" that seems to work for a pretty decent rate. I called and said I had inners, rad support and a ton of small parts and he thought it'd be under a hunny. I'm going to pull out and catalog pretty much all the crap I have left and bring it in. Looking back, I've spent sooo much time and moolah on abrasives, wire wheels, solvents and crap that I shoulda just had the whole shabang blasted on day one!

[fakerwade]

From one guy who doesn't usually do body work to another,,, it looks good!!! (for what it's worth)

[Bomp]

Like it.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by fakerwade

From one guy who doesn't usually do body work to another,,, it looks good!!! (for what it's worth)

Thanks Wade! Wifey and the Boy call me Anal Johnny all the time. To me it's not anal, it's just that its probably taking me ten times as long as somebody that knows what they're doing!

Originally Posted by Bomp

Like it.

Thanks Bomp! Gave your '66 a read this morning. That thing is gonna be cool!

[Low Elco]

Duuuuuude. I don't think I'd a told that! Polishing my halo over here..... Get the Durablocks kit, about $40. I love mine, sticky back 80 grit and give er hell!
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[67cheby]

WOW...great SHOP !! jealous !

[FrankieD]

[QUOTE=jlsanborn;5604023]Yay! Half-a$$ cleaned the shop! It's always a damn $hit-hole and I just had to put a broom down before I got to doing anything. It's about 50% shop and 50% storage shed but I've got plans for that in the future.

We all would love a place like that to work in but the heat bill in the winter would kill me. Lucky Dog

[Low Elco]

PS- what you're doing looks good! Skim it 3-4 inches either side of the low spot. Knock it down till the mud featheredges. LEAVE IT. IT'LL FEEL HIGH. LEAVE IT. Repeat over damage on the rest of the panel. Hose it with 3 good coats of featherfill 2.0. 80 block the featherfill, tap down high spots lightly. 2more coats of featherfill. Block with 150. Reprime. Block with 220. Reprime. Wetsand with 400 on a block. Spray color. Drink and giggle.
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

WOW...great SHOP !! jealous !

Thanks Mike! It's been a project of its own. Three years ago it was a "barn" with a 20' x 20' hole cut in the side and corrals inside. No power either.

[quote=FrankieD;5604826]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Yay! Half-a$$ cleaned the shop! It's always a damn $hit-hole and I just had to put a broom down before I got to doing anything. It's about 50% shop and 50% storage shed but I've got plans for that in the future.

We all would love a place like that to work in but the heat bill in the winter would kill me. Lucky Dog

Thanks Frankie! I enclosed that loft I built for the wife and made my little workshop under there. It's insulated to the hilt and I've got a small baseboard heater on a t-stat to keep it from freezing. I made the slider door big enough to get projects in and out. I can take the chill off pretty quickly and work on most things I need to. Got a computer and tunes in there too. The rest of the shop is a wood-stove affair.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

PS- what you're doing looks good! Skim it 3-4 inches either side of the low spot. Knock it down till the mud featheredges. LEAVE IT. IT'LL FEEL HIGH. LEAVE IT. Repeat over damage on the rest of the panel. Hose it with 3 good coats of featherfill 2.0. 80 block the featherfill, tap down high spots lightly. 2more coats of featherfill. Block with 150. Reprime. Block with 220. Reprime. Wetsand with 400 on a block. Spray color. Drink and giggle.
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How the heck did you get Boppa's done so fast doing all that!? What did you use for filler? I got some stuff called Half Time from Napa. They said its their most popular. It is some tuff sanding tho! I've been working on the doors lately and will get those primered first. If everything looks good, I'm golden. If it looks bad then I've got my work cut out for me!

[Low Elco]

Ha, I use Halftime! Get it close close in metal! Really, it's a Lot faster than Jackin around with mud. Seriously. Get some good blocks, start knocking your mud down when it's just past rubbery. The better you do each step, the faster the next steps will be. Also, it helps if you work like you're killin snakes, but I don't think that's a problem for you!
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