My build thread.. 63 LS powered C10

[Super73]

Ahhh, doing the thrash to get it done before the 19th...

Fuel system is done, decided against the hardline.
Mounted the regulator in a different spot
-12 from cell to pump
-10 from pump to y-block before rails
-8 from y-block to rails
-4 from rails to Aeromotive regulator
-6 return to cell
(2) -4's from rails to Fuel noids.

My bloody finger tips reminded my why I hate -4 stainless braided lines.


Got the rear end filled back up with fluid.

Got the drivers header back in place (sure wish I had a new set that fit, but oh well for now). Can't put the passanger one in until I get the trans cooler lines done.

Got the old rear brake line back in place for now, want to do stainless but time is my enemy right now, so when I rewire the truck after this race, I will go stainless hard line and braided ends.

Radiator hoses done and radiator filled.



Revised my to do list:
Converter Bolts
Alternator Mounting Stud
Belt
Oil Change
2ga for batterey Cut off
Wire Fuel Pump
Extend Fan Wiring
Motor Wiring Harness
Bolt done Throttle Body and spacer
Double check N20 Noids and jetting
Bleed Brakes
Trans Cooler Lines (Make one more -6)
Headers
Wide Band
Exhaust
Cut outs
Plugs
Mount Trans Cooler
Trans Fluid
Install windshield
Front bumper (optional)
Turn Signals (optional)

Not sure if I will do the front bumper or brake lights/turn signals. There is a class for the 20th that requires them, but I don't have to run in the class, just would like to. If time permits, I will do it, If not, oh well.

[Marv D]

Looking at that list,, you better have a BUNCH of free time this weekend if your going to make the 19th !!!! If it were me, it would be 2 months (wait,, when my list was that short it still took me all stinking summer !!! LOL)

You know what happens when you start rushing....

[Super73]

Luckily a lot of it is stupid simple stuff that has already been together before so that helps to reduce going together time. I think I can knock a good part of that list out tonight. Getting the misc parts I need today.
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[PGSigns]

Once you get it complete you need to map the four link. Once you have the map you can pick and instant center length and height. How flat is your garage floor for setting the preload and anti roll?
Jimmy

[bigboybodry]

To bad you don't live closer I would come help being I'm waiting on parts for my hull. Good luck and make sure someone take a video cam

[Marv D]

ooooops, wrong thread!!

[Super73]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Once you get it complete you need to map the four link. Once you have the map you can pick and instant center length and height. How flat is your garage floor for setting the preload and anti roll?
Jimmy

Already mapped ICG before it left the chassis shop at its current ride height. Might have to add a couple turns on the spanners once fuel is in it to keep it where it is at as far as ride height.
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[Super73]

Ok, got the following done:

Revised my to do list:
Converter Bolts
Alternator Mounting Stud
Belt
Oil Change
2ga for batterey Cut off
Wire Fuel Pump (Most of it was there, just one new wire)
Extend Fan Wiring (Most of it was there, just one new wire)
Motor Wiring Harness
Bolt down Throttle Body and spacer
Batterey Terminals
Fixed an extension harness for theknock sensors and cam sensor (was never right from the company I bought it from)



But as you work on things you see a few more to do..

Here is the update of what to do..

Rear Brake line (made just tighten to flex line for the caliper)
Bleed Brakes
Ground (Drill a 3/8 in a 2ga ring terminal and bolt down)
Check fuel pump
Fuel Pump Relay (Wire is run, just need to figure out which relay, One was for the N20 pump before)
Check Fans (Once I have power, it is easy to do with the computer)
Mount Trans Cooler
Trans temp guage
Top off Radiator
Plugs
Trans Cooler Lines (Need a section of -6)
Tie Loose wires
Passanger Header
Exhaust
Wide Band
Cut outs
Starter
Tighten Rockers
Trans Fluid
Bumper (Optional)
Turn Signals (Optional)


If all goes well it will fire up by tomorrow night. If not it will be on Sunday afternoon.

[PGSigns]

What we do is make a full size map of all the 4 link mount holes at ride height wet with tire pressure set. Then we draw the lines through the holes and make a spread sheet of the hole locations and combinations with there associated lengths and heights. Then pick a starting point based on the vehicle and power. So for your truck I would build a base line sheet that included four link and shock settings. Sheet would look like this
Four link 47 1/2" out 8" up
Preload neutral with driver and no anti roll (set with top right bar)
Rear shocks compression 2 clicks from dead soft, rebound in the middle of the settings.
Front shocks 3 from dead soft.
Tire pressure 8 pounds.
First runs would be with out anti roll to see if any preload is needed to get to track strait in water and the leave.
Then we would make passes and take notes and make adjustments based on video of the leave.
Jimmy

[hotrod 80]

Alot of work for a week . You gonna make first passes on a radial ? Flow the nitrous regulator also if you intend to spray it due to the fuel system changes . Truck looks good .

[Super73]

PG,

Right now we have it set up with a bit less hit with an ICG of 59" out and 5.75" up. All the bars are currently set in a nuetral state so no preload. The ICG should stay the same with or with out fuel if I adjust the spanner accordingly. After next weekend I will be getting it on my buddies corner scales and finding my true CG and weights based on fuel and me in the truck.

We are using a program call 4-link wizard to help with the 4-link map options. We may make some changes when I hit an actual prepped track like Sac, Dos Palos is not going to give me a ton of data. Sat there is no timers what so ever, no 60' no 330' and sunday only there is a 660' ET, not even sure if there is a mph. I plan on needing to peddle it there as there is no track prep either.



HotRod,

May 19/20 will be motor only. When I had the 347ci motor with the 80E, I could spray one stage once in second. But last time at this event, it was hard to keep the truck from braking loose 60' out. Not sure if it is due to the newer combo 418ci motor and Glide/bigger verter, but I had to short shift or the tires would go up in smoke about 6k rpm in first.

I agree that before I go anywhere on the unit I will figure something out on the N20 system.

[PGSigns]

Preload needs to be checked ready to go and on good flat surface. All preload is checked and set with the top right bar buy most folks. What I like to do reach in and while the driver is suited up and the car is in a ready state is just give it a rock and make sure the bar is loose. A quarter turn will make a change in the way one will drive. 4 link wizard is a good program. Let me know how the long IC does, Most my stuff has been in the 46 to 54 inch range. Just started working with a local pomod racer and that is another animal all together than I am used to and will see how that goes. Testing at Super Chevy in a week. Hope to run some 3.80's if the track is good.
Jimmy

[Super73]

She runs.. Fired right up. Pretty much everything is together and running. I still need to have the windshield installed and will need to do something about the exhaust as the old set up did not fit with the outriggers. I need to get it warm, and double check the coolant level and trans fluid level. Might bleed the brakes one more time just to be sure.

I will try to get a little video up on Sunday.
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[djracer]

Sweet! I can't wait till my pig is painted!

[hotrod 80]

Keep us posted and let us know how you do at the race this weekend .

[PGSigns]

Always a good feeling when they come to life.
Jimmy

[bigboybodry]

Can't wait to hear it! !!!!!
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[Super73]

Sorry, no video today. Went to take it for a short ride to find out the Weldon pump I got from a buddy of mine wasn't interested in making me happy. Luckily I have the exact same pump brand new on a shelf waiting for my Camaro. Swapped it out and worked a little on the tune.

Then I decided I would fix Danielle's Trailblazer SS since I need it to tow with this weekend. Never knew a starter motor would be such a task. It is barried in there along with the AWD stuff. Don't even have it out yet need to finish it tomorrow night.

[Marv D]

You got that close, I'm impressed. That was a LONG 'to-do' list. Congrats on making it move under it's own power anyways.

BTW, you were dead right. Started pulling the urathane bushed bars off to replace them with solid rod ends and found a very damaged bushing in the diagonal link. That was why she was driving right at every shift. Great chatch!!!

[Super73]

Ok, decided I am not going this weekend. Buddy could get the windshield installed tonight, but I don't feel confident in the current tune. Having some timing issues at idle and would rather spend some more time getting it right before going to the track. Will probably try to hit the dyno next week. Here is a little idle video though.

Farmtruck Running - YouTube

[Marv D]

Ohhhhhh baby!!! she is sounding seriously wicked!!!

[djracer]

That is a sexy truck. Good luck with the new combo. Some Rattle can flat black would look Awesome on your truck! Coming from the guy who is painting mine shiny Black.

[BigDan3131]

Is this build thread done or will you still be adding to it? Did you ever find headers that work for you? If you haven't maybe you should just buy a kit and have your fab guy build you a set.

[shortbed70]

That beast sounds nasty!!!!
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[Super73]

Big Dan, the true question is are any of them ever done?

There are some things I want to do still:
Different headers
Re-wire the truck
Swap out the 12 bolt for the 9" I have
Port the intake
Get one of Paul Baxters front ends
Mount my fiberglass front end
Do some body work

Oh the list goes on



Thanks Shortbed.. Going to run it 8/17 and 8/18.
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