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#151 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
I ran into a mistake I made before I had the mettle work done. I drilled holes for the air conditioning before the work was done. I guess I accidentally marked the wrong holes to be filled. So the old heater holes were left open and the new ones I drilled were filled in so I had to redrill them yesterday. Fortunately the vintage air kit comes with plugs to fill the original holes but it will not look nearly as nice as the holes being welded shut and painted
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#152 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
In other news I am working on getting the truck ready to have the interior done. And I am saving up my pennies, nickels and $100 bills.
I replace my wiper blaids with a set of 12" Champion blades. I hade to buy a hole assembly and take it apart to use only the rubber. I hade to do a little cutting to make them slide in but they look like they will work well. I also used a d-ring to lock my column shirt linkage in park (as a society measure). With the hood locked you can't take the truck out of park. I am also trying to figure out a way to lock my steering column inside the engine compartment. Posted via Mobile Device Last edited by forestb; 07-16-2017 at 10:00 PM. |
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#153 |
60-66 Nut
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,247
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Just a FYI, these trucks are supposed to have 13" wiper blades.
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#154 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
That's funny. A while back ago I bought the mettle parts that hold the blade to the arm and they are around 12.5" in length so I was just going off what they sent me. Maybe they sent be parts for a different year. O well they fit perfect.
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#155 |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Test fit bench seat from a 90's burb. I want head rests so this is what I will be going with. I am pleased the front 2 bolts fit fine. I will have to drill new ones for the rear bolts. Now I have to figure out what color I want it.
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#156 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 10,384
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Looks great! Love the color.
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1966 Chevy C10 "Project Two Tone" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=596643 1964 GMC "Crustine" semi-build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=665056 My youtube channel. Username "Military Chevy": https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_h...fzpcUXyK_5-uiw |
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#157 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
I was getting my cab floor ready for installing some heat insulation and found a small pin hole and after some poking around with a screwdriver I found this. I think if I do a little more poking I will find that the area below is rusted also. I know I had a rust hole in a similar spot that was supposed to be fixed but it might have been in the other side. I will have to go through my old photos to see.
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#158 | |
But Found Her 25yrs Later!
![]() Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 10,525
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Quote:
If somebody rear ends me, I don't want whiplash.
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I lost my 65 - Found it 25 years later: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=426650 66 C20 Service Truck: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=428035 |
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#159 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
I got the hole in the cab floor welded up and had my hood rebodyworked and repainted. Now it is time to start laying down sound deadener and heat insulation. I am a little trigger shy because I don't want to install the wrong thing.
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#160 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
I have been spending the last few month taking the truck back and forth from the painter. I thought i had it all ironed out until I washed my truck last weekend. While washing all looked fine. About 2 hours later a lot of the cracks that he was supposed to have fixed returned. I think he thought he could just buff them out but it turns out they went deeper. I am vary tired and discouraged right now. I was about to start work on the interior. Now that will have to be put on hold. Here is a photo of the roof.
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#161 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Sorry that image got messed up
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#162 |
But Found Her 25yrs Later!
![]() Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 10,525
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
What do you think is causing the cracking?
Body filler? Primer incompatible with paint?
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I lost my 65 - Found it 25 years later: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=426650 66 C20 Service Truck: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=428035 |
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#163 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
I think it is body filler the hood roof is full of it and I think the hood has some also.
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#164 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Started putting some dynomat and found some rust at the bottom of my cab corner pockets.
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#165 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
sorry here are the pictures rotated correctly
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#166 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
sorry that didn't work itf this doesn't work I give up
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#167 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Making progress on the dynomat and also cleaned up the pockets behind the door and was able to remove the large clump of I don’t know what from the one side. I applied some naval jelly to both sides and will probably do another application next weekend. Both sides have a little square hole at the bottom. One side the seam is splitting a little so I will probably add some seam sealer. I got some locktight rust neutralizer that I will apply before the seam sealer and then primer and paint over it all. I am actually surprised that they are not rusted through given that every time I washed the truck before it was painted I would get watter in the drivers side pocket. I think it was leaking in from the original gas cap that is now shaved. I have covered the fire wall with dynomat and am trying to figure out if I should also put it on the cal an maybe some under the dash.
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#168 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
I put some rust converter in my rear cab corner pockets. I am worried because it said to put on a second coat with in 20 minuets and after it turns black but it never turned black. I don’t know if it’s because the first coat was too heavy or because there was some navel jelly left on the surface. I hope not the latter. I tried to clean it off the best I could considering the location. I will see how it looks next weekend. I also found some rust on the interior where the door frame connects to the floor. Another set back
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#169 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Started making a speaker box in my kick board vents.
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#170 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Finished installing speaker boxes/cups. Next step get interior done
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#171 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Sorry sideways
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#172 |
Moderator
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: China Spring, TX
Posts: 7,280
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Wow those look great.
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Master Chief, US Navy, Retired 1964 C10 Step-side Short Bed - In Progress 2009 2500HD Duramax LTZ 1948 GMC Panel 1956 Big Window Stepside 1953 5 Window Chevy Stepside 1932 Coupe New Seat Foam for Bench Seats? |
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#173 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
Thanks
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#174 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
I installed my speakers today. I was going you try and get some interior quotes this week but instead I need to figure out why my truck won’t start when it is hot.
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#175 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 3,608
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Re: Forest's rebuild thread
I am posting this because a couple of people have asked me about it.
I created the cup using around 4 or 5 rings that I cut out of .25 in mdf that were glued and nailed together. The back of the cup was caped off using a circle cut out of .5 in mdf. I then sprayed the back side and some of the front with spray on inner fender lining. I used a set of 5.25 inch kicker ks speakers. https://www.kicker.com/44KSC504 If I were to do it all over again I would have just created the plate that covers up the hole using a piece of .5 in mdf and then mounted a all whether marine speaker to it. That way I would not need to build the cup and I would not have to worry about moisture. Warning. I am no expert and have not tried to see how well they will sound. I did not block off the vents at all so there will still be moisture moving through. I might add some kind of screen under the cowl just to keep the crud out. Or if there is room some kind of screw on block off plate so that I can still get to my windshield wiper parts. |
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