TA_C10: Stage 1

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC

Looks great man! Hey I got a favour to ask you. Do you think you could pull the measurements between the two front cab mount holes, center to center, and the two rear cab mount holes, again center to center? I found on another thread that says they are supposed to be 37-1/2" at the rear and 41-1/2" at the front. My rear measures 37-3/8" which is fine, but I'm getting 40-5/8" in the front.

My 72 is 41.25 in the front.

[Kronald_70GMC]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

My 72 is 41.25 in the front.

Hmmm. I guess I might have some work to do there.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Either way works but I'm pretty sure 99% wouldn't be able to see the area well enough to critique the dog-house area behind the motor.
Texture = less work in most cases.

You know this is true, and I didn't think about all this until you guys were commenting on it because I'm building a daily driver so my mind is on durability not the purdy factor but now that I'm staring at it in the garage I really like how it turned out for looks too. Let's see what it ends up looking like when I get it back on the frame

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC

Looks great man! Hey I got a favour to ask you. Do you think you could pull the measurements between the two front cab mount holes, center to center, and the two rear cab mount holes, again center to center? I found on another thread that says they are supposed to be 37-1/2" at the rear and 41-1/2" at the front. My rear measures 37-3/8" which is fine, but I'm getting 40-5/8" in the front. Really hoping that what I was reading is just a typo or something as I have no idea where I could have possibly lost 7/8". Thanks

Ok, just went out and pulled my measurements and here is what I got:

1970 cab and frame
Front = 40 13/16
Rear = 37 5/8

What I did was used a tape measure, but to be more accurate I skipped the first inch and started on the 1" mark on tape, and then found my measurement. It was easier to line up that 1" mark line than trying to figure out the metal tip on the end of the tape

I then measured my frame it is very close to the same measurements as my cab. Only an 1/16 to 1/8 inch difference from frame to cab.

Hope that helps!

[Kronald_70GMC]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Ok, just went out and pulled my measurements and here is what I got:

1970 cab and frame
Front = 40 13/16
Rear = 37 5/8

What I did was used a tape measure, but to be more accurate I skipped the first inch and started on the 1" mark on tape, and then found my measurement. It was easier to line up that 1" mark line than trying to figure out the metal tip on the end of the tape

I then measured my frame it is very close to the same measurements as my cab. Only an 1/16 to 1/8 inch difference from frame to cab.

Hope that helps!

Thanks that does help. So your cab is very close to mine and some are an inch bigger. That is interesting. I went out and meausered my frame today and everything looks like it will be bang on, so that is a relief.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC

Thanks that does help. So your cab is very close to mine and some are an inch bigger. That is interesting. I went out and meausered my frame today and everything looks like it will be bang on, so that is a relief.

I grabbed my wife and we went out and measured twice just to make sure

[Kronald_70GMC]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

I grabbed my wife and we went out and measured twice just to make sure
6

I've probably measured mine 12 times in the last 24 hours.

[TA_C10]

Transmission Crossmember - Customized

Another member showed me this mod and I duplicated his idea. Basically the POL(Performance Online) trans crossmember that I have, the perch is too low for the 4l60e based on my calculations. The angle is too far off(low) so I needed to raise the tailshaft up a couple inches. Instead of using a 2" block or something else in between the perch and the trans mount, I decided to cut off the perch and flip it gaining me approximately 2" lift. I will test it out this weekend and if its good to go clean up the welds and shoot some paint on it. I think its gonna work just fine

[TA_C10]

oops, pics fixed in my last post.

[Kronald_70GMC]

It looks like you were stacking tack welds as you put that back together. I've heard that you don't want to do that with thicker metal as it has a higher chance of cracking. I could be wrong as I'm not overly experienced at welding myself but you might want to look into that.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC

It looks like you were stacking tack welds as you put that back together. I've heard that you don't want to do that with thicker metal as it has a higher chance of cracking. I could be wrong as I'm not overly experienced at welding myself but you might want to look into that.

True. But, his heat affected zone looks decent which is an indicator that things got hot enough for penetration:

[Kronald_70GMC]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

True. But, his heat affected zone looks decent which is an indicator that things got hot enough for penetration:

Very true. Looking good. Keep it up!

[TA_C10]

Crap....

I guess I was so used to welding sheet this way I didn't think about keeping the petal to the metal and dragging/pushing the puddle instead on thicker metal...

This is definitely new ground I'm treading here.

I think I'm going to be ok like SCOTI was saying though. Even though I was overlapping the welds, I spent no time waiting from spot to spot so the puddle stayed cherry red as I stacked the very next spot on top of the other and I did that all the way around without stopping so it was continuous stacking. I also didn't move around at all, I just kept stacking on top the previous keeping it cherry red.

So my penetration to the back side looked really good to me. The pics you see are actually ground with a flap wheel just a tiny bit to clean up the surrounding splatter so the penetration areas look less than what they really are.

If my tranny falls out while , then I will know better next time cuz I already painted the xmember and its going back in



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[TA_C10]

Brake Lines - Stainless Pre-Bent

I installed the brake lines. Went with stainless pre-bent lines from LMC. They were pretty decent. They came with every union needed except for the one on the rear axle connecting the two rear pieces together at the soft line connection. I didn't order a new rear softline for some reason and I also need those clips for the hard to softline junctions so I'm done except for that and installing the clamps down the frame rail.

Here are a few pictures. The frame could use a wash jeez....

[TA_C10]

..

[TA_C10]

Fuel System - Fuel Lines Completed


I finished up the fuel lines today. Really not much to it, just time consuming. It took more brains pre-ordering all the right parts than it did installing it. I decided to put the vette filter in the back behind the fuel tank since there will be plenty of open space there when the filter needs to be replaced for maintenance.


Here is the SummitRacing packing list with all the parts I used and the cost.





1/4 inch adapters to AN -6






The vette filter from tanks INC came with a bolt hole and a little tab to the side of it that keeps it in place so I notched a little hole for the tab and drilled out a new hole. I placed a bolt in from behind and used a lock washer and nut in the front to secure it.









The filter also came with a ground strap and I tried to bend it down just a little and the little sucker snapped right off, so don't try this at home folks I tack welded it back in place.








When I was cutting my hose, I used a rubber golf club holder for a vise to hold the fuel line. It worked great. Making these fuel lines was a LOT easier than I expected to make. I used a thin cutoff wheel to cut the lines. Tape keeps the stainless braid from fraying.









Here is the finished filter setup:







I used the same 3/8" aluminum fuel line that the P.O. was using. I just blew it out with the air hose and installed summit brand compression fittings to AN -6. Worked out great. It only runs the straight shot down the frame.

Here is where I connected the soft line to hard line in the rear. It's taped up right now while I get all the clamps installed so it doesn't get scratched.






And here it is in the front. You can see the route I'm going to take up to the fuel rail.

[TA_C10]

Anybody think me putting a few tack welds in the filter above did any damage to it internally?

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[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Anybody think me putting a few tack welds in the filter above did any damage to it internally?

.

At first when I saw the picture, I did kind of worry about possible damage... but for some reason I was thinking it was a pump, and thought of the electrical components being burnt. I guess that would be a senior moment? Since it is only a filter with a mechanical regulator, (same set up as mine) I’m gonna bet your just fine. I probably would have done the same thing if mine snapped off. I guess time will tell! Your truck is looking great man.
Brian

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

At first when I saw the picture, I did kind of worry about possible damage... but for some reason I was thinking it was a pump, and thought of the electrical components being burnt. I guess that would be a senior moment? Since it is only a filter with a mechanical regulator, (same set up as mine) I’m gonna bet your just fine. I probably would have done the same thing if mine snapped off. I guess time will tell! Your truck is looking great man.
Brian

Thanks for the compliments, and I'm glad to hear you would do same thing lol. I think the same thing, its just a filter... My main concern was the heat may have melted some glue or burned the filter inside but I just did like 3 tacks real quick and not all at once...

[TA_C10]

This is what I'm doing for the rest of the week....

Wish me luck...

[TA_C10]

Parts are showing up a little at a time over past several weeks










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[TA_C10]

Few updates:

Still working on the LS Wire Harness. Pretty much completed and i'm fitting it to engine and intake and getting ready to fire up the engine for the first time. More on this later.

I finished the rear brakes. Basically they were shot. The PO looked to be replacing the pads and cylinders but not the drums and the drums were shot so...... They ruined the pads. Lot of pad still left on some but they wouldn't have lasted long and probably not functioning great...

I ordered new parts from rockauto and the cylinders were a little bigger footprint than the originals on the truck so I had to clearance these two tabs to make them fit.






The rest of the brake job went as expected. Not much to it. Takes a while I guess. The hardware kit from rockauto was perfect size and shape springs. I have done a lot of drum brakes and autozone kits always seem to have 1 or more springs that don't fit like oem.

[TA_C10]

Pop quiz:

In the picture above showing my new brakes and spring kit? What did I forget to install in this pic?

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[1971Stepside]

I need to order my brake line kit. Which part # (s) did you order? You were happy with fit? I've heard the stainless can be a bear. You are making much better progress than I am. Keep it up.

[TA_C10]

Let me gather those up and I will post them for you

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