1987 GMC V1500 Sierra Classic LS swap/build

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Hankster

Good score! I say put in a new PCV valve and a oil change and that motor is probably fine.

I am not sure if I want to chance it.. Hate for no oil pressure to cause some deep grooves in the block. I wish I could just do that and a new oil pump and roll out though!! We will see when I tear into it a little farther.

[NastyBuzzard]

Got it set down tonight to see if I need to order a set of f-body manifolds. I got a friend who can ship me some this week for $125. 01-02 egr less ones w/ flanges. Not sure if that's a great deal or not but cheaper than I have seen elsewhere.



















DS looks tight, like if I move it at all may hit/rub.









Just seeing how it will look.









So should I jump on the set of fbody manifolds or what? I do see now what people were talking about the truck manifolds pointing in odd directions.

Also not 100% sure I am in the location at which the engine is staying. I can move it around thanks to the dirty dingos but I don't have trans attached so not sure if this is the final resting place or not.

I also picked up a 20 gal carb tank to try and play with. I want to get the 01 fuel pump assy in it, if possible.

[NastyBuzzard]

Now to figure out how to get these to work...



stock tbi lines on bottom, top 3 are from the donor truck.

[NorCalAnthony]

Great job on your build so far. I'm about to start a similar project on my '89 K5 and even have a complete donor ('00 Yukon) like you do lol. I want to see how you wind up getting the newer sending unit mounted in the older tank since I'm going to have to do the same thing with mine to carry over all of the evap stuff for the eventual smog ref inspection I'll have to do... Keep up the good work

[Flatpat]

If it works it doesn't matter to me if it's ugly as long as it works well, there is a bed covering it up anyhow. I hadn't seen that method yet but I may use it too.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

If it works it doesn't matter to me if it's ugly as long as it works well, there is a bed covering it up anyhow. I hadn't seen that method yet but I may use it too.

I agree, it wont ever be seen by anyone but myself. I do plan to clean it up and bevel edges and what not. However, I am totally confident that the epoxy sealed it up just fine. The harware was just a precaution and an easy way to keep pressure on the epoxy while it cured.

Like I said, I pressure tested it and couldn't find any leaks. Time will tell if it holds up and I definitely plan to test it when I get my engine ready to fire up!!

One step closer is what matters to me at this point.

[Flatpat]

I like the cut and re-flare of the tubes, seems like a better solution than the others I've seen. Kuddos to Anthony for finding that.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

I like the cut and re-flare of the tubes, seems like a better solution than the others I've seen. Kuddos to Anthony for finding that.

I agree. Although I had already planned to do that.

Ready to get my lines plumbed up!

[NorCalAnthony]

Glad the link was helpful to a couple of people I actually don't think it looks too bad especially once you go back and clean up the edges a little and maybe throw some paint or rattle can bed liner on it... Besides, like you said, nobody's going to see it but you once it's installed. Now that I've seen how yours turned out I might do the same thing on mine instead of taking it to a fab shop or radiator shop and paying them to weld the locking ring on for me. What kind of epoxy did you wind up using? I look forward to seeing how you get the fuel lines ran, what fittings you use, and how well it all works.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

Glad the link was helpful to a couple of people I actually don't think it looks too bad especially once you go back and clean up the edges a little and maybe throw some paint or rattle can bed liner on it... Besides, like you said, nobody's going to see it but you once it's installed. Now that I've seen how yours turned out I might do the same thing on mine instead of taking it to a fab shop or radiator shop and paying them to weld the locking ring on for me. What kind of epoxy did you wind up using? I look forward to seeing how you get the fuel lines ran, what fittings you use, and how well it all works.

I used harbor freight brand 2 part epoxy, quick setup. It was two tubes that you mix together, was about $9. It was tough, mix it for about 1 minute and then apply. It actually got really hot and would burn the skin a little bit. It held great. We dripped some onto the work bench and had to chisel it off. I was very impressed. Now just need to see how it does with long term exposure to gas fumes and contact with gas when it sloshes around. Should be fine though.

I will definitely let everyone know how it turns out.

I will make it look better, all this was done late at night after wife and baby had gone to bed.

As far as fuel lines go I am going to keep it simple as possible. I will be using a mixture of the 2 sets of lines. I will also be routing the evap can/box.

I will try and provide good pictures, should be pretty straightforward.

One step closer!

[NastyBuzzard]

Had to work saturday all day and sunday was pretty busy.

Starting mocking things up though.



Seems I need to either cut the existing 01 nylon lines or use a heat gun to bend them in the other direction. Thoughts?

Also the tbi lines went all the way up to rear of the ls engine. So all I will have to do is cut, double flare and attach the ends of the 01 lines that attach to fuel rails using some unions.

The rear going to the pump assy looks like it may need some more thought.
TBI lines come within about 18" of the 01 pump assy on the 20 gal tank. That is where I will be tying in the 01 lines but I will have to bend them appropriately. Then comes the evap canister. Once I will get more time I will get it worked out. Hopefully!

[Hankster]

It'll get there! What are your going to wide up doing about your bed?

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Hankster

It'll get there! What are your going to wide up doing about your bed?

Still unsure about the bed... I guess I am going to keep the truck a longbed. Especially if I get the crew cab I just started a thread about.

Plans are to replace the damaged bedside, it probably isn't fixable. The longbed doesn't have any rust so I plan to slap it back on at the very end of the project.

Since I am getting a way from saddle bags, I have a friend not to far that has a lot of squarebodies and he has a ds bedside that came of a passenger side tank truck so I will probably try and get it so i don't have to cut/weld up the bedside I have to get rid of the fuel door.

Up for ideas though. Havn't really found any reasonably priced beds close by that I could completely replace it with.

[Hankster]

Nice! I would live it long-bed, and sounds like you've already got a good plan worked up!

[NastyBuzzard]

Finding it hard to find time to get anything done lately.

I used heat gun to remold/bend the nylon lines.



Got one a little too hot.



I am very confident this will work. However, since I sold the old tbi engine for $650 and my longtubes for $75, I have some extra $ in the budget. I am considering replacing the nylon lines with AN Lines and fittings. I am also considering buying a new tank with the vette works ls fuel pump adapater kit..

However, I have never bought AN lines or fittings. Anyone with ideas on what I would need? I only need about 2' or 30" of the AN lines.

Also wondering if this is going to be a problem area. Stock tbi line w/ rubber hose inline. Thoughts?

[NastyBuzzard]

Here are the push on fittings to fit the ls pump.



Here is what was in my final cart. All the stuff needed for what I am doing. These AN lines will go from the LS pump assy and connect to the tbi lines.



Other fittings and unions I will be using.



My first double flare.



Althought after that my friend broke my 5/16 flare adapter and then after that I couldn't get any more flares to work.

I got one of the broken exhaust manifold bolts out but the other one is being very difficult. Rounded off my only pair of vicegrips. Broke several drill bits as well.

I also got engine out and mated back to transmission.

[NorCalAnthony]

Thanks for posting up the pictures of everything you ordered. Can't wait to see what it looks like all hooked up

Sorry to hear about the difficult exhaust manifold bolt. Do you have a welder or access to one? I've seen a lot of guys have good success welding a nut to the top of the broken bolt (think plug weld) and then using that to turn the broken bolt. A little heat goes a long ways when you're working those out too... Good luck man and keep up the good work

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

Thanks for posting up the pictures of everything you ordered. Can't wait to see what it looks like all hooked up

Sorry to hear about the difficult exhaust manifold bolt. Do you have a welder or access to one? I've seen a lot of guys have good success welding a nut to the top of the broken bolt (think plug weld) and then using that to turn the broken bolt. A little heat goes a long ways when you're working those out too... Good luck man and keep up the good work

Nope, unfortunately I don't have access to a welder anymore. We have also drilled it out and all for the extractor just cant get the extractor to turn. I wore out my only set of vicegrips. It was throwing sparks while destroying teeth.. I will have another go later.

Currently I have 3 sets of double flaring tools. Doing these double flares are taking a lot of patience!! Once I get it all done I will get some detailed pics.

I am ordering a new 20 gal carb saddle tank and the vette works ls pump assy adapter kit. As well as a set of TBSS manifolds.

However, I just got back from our beach vacation so nothing to report and I have to work all this weekend... :/ I am dying to get back at it!!

[chevytrucksforme]

Great looking build! Subscribed.

[NastyBuzzard]

Norcal Thanks for the dorman part #! That is exactly what I ordered.

Yeah 33" tall tires are as big as this truck will get, probably no wider than 12.5 and these rims are 7.5" wide.

3* huh? I will try and investigate. Currently issue is I need someone to pry while I tighten down. I am trying to recruit some help so I can get it locked down and top end back on so I can start routing wiring.

I have possibly found a fuel pump that will be direct fit for carb 20 gal tank & the vetteworks adapter instead of having to cut down the truck pump. I will investigate further tomorrow.

Since the time change it's like every time I get home it is dark!! However, trust me when I say these are probably the best manifolds for our trucks! They follow the engine/frame parallel and don't kick out like truck manifolds do. There is all kinds of room to run whatever exhaust you would like. I will hopefully have pics in the daylight this weekend.. Sorry taking so long but if you are worried about fitment, don't. The fit is excellent!

I appreciate it Chevytrucks!! I am going to try and push this build a little faster sometime soon. I want and need it running. I appreciate the support.

[NastyBuzzard]

As promised, here are the pics of the TBSS manifolds on engine in 87 4x4. Sorry I only had time to just snap these pics. I will get better ones when I can crawl under the truck.

DS has sooo much room



PS almost has just as much.



Also, as promised. I found a direct drop in ls style fuel pump for the 73-87 tank using the vetteworks kit. It's out of a 2002 grand prix. Airtext PN E3542M. One out of a 02 4 door blazer could work too but I like the 02 Grand Prix pump better.





I also finally bolted engine all the way down.. I was prying like hell to get it perfect and ended up pulling a groin muscle and hurting my back. However, it is bolted down but it is far from perfect... Which drives me nuts. It seems crooked to me or something. UGH...



Only thing close to hitting or anything is this part of the oil pan. It still has more than 1/4" all the way around it though.

[NastyBuzzard]

So I needed to eliminate the EGR crap. Well I got a hold of a 03 intake and put my 01 throttle body on it. So now I have two tubes that go to the ds valve cover??? Which one to use and which to plug? I actually had to knock the tube coming out of the throttle body up a few degrees b/c it wouldn't go on b/c of interference. Any ideas?



Also, any one know where I can find more of these? I had to rob it off my 6.0. Its some gasket thing off of a piece that mounts to the top/front of the intake near throttle body.



I did get the top end back on and torqued







Started wiring... Most of engine is wired besides a ground or two that I couldn't do b/c dirty dingo mounts were in the way and not a space on firewall yet. Also need to put power to starter.

Everything else I should just be able to plug it all up and start it. After I finish fuel lines and all. Then I will have to go back and splice in the 87-91 headlight harness, bed harness, door wiring harness and so on.



Also someone on facebook showed me this, where they swapped in newer style (nnbs/gmt800) dash in 73-87.

[NastyBuzzard]

This seal for a 98-02 fbody pump will work a lot better to seal the ls pump in the modified tank w/ the vetteworks kit. PN AC Delco G46



It is nice having options...



As you can see the 01 steering column isn't just going to bolt right in a 73-87.. Unfortunately it will take some modifications.

[Hankster]

Can't wait to see it all together.

[NastyBuzzard]

You and me both! Doing some remodeling in the house now. Had to remove carpet where I'm putting a wood stove. Ended up just taking up all the carpet. Now I gotta do hardwood floors and build a hearth. Fun fun.