Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[OrrieG]

Progress is being made. Got the doors down to metal so I can etch and prime them. You rust belt guys will hate me, passenger has a few small spots on bottom of the inside, drivers side is clean. Love this old desert truck! With any luck next week end will get to prime all the stuff I've been working on over the winter and paint the inside front clip stuff with semi-black. Here are shots of the doors.

[ChuckDriver]

OrrieG, I've been think of going to a cable shifter also. Looking at your setup I'm curious if you have it working. The reason I ask is because I have a kugel shift arm setup on mine and the way it works is by pushing the trans arm down as it shifts from Park to Drive. Looking at your pictures, and I might not be seeing the whole story, it looks like yours is pushing the cable down from the column, therefor it's working against the trans arm? On my 350 trans as viewed from the side, the arm moves counter-clockwise. Thats why it looks to me that it's backwards. Hope this makes sense.

[discodadee]

I can help a little bit with that one, I don't have the cable set-up, but in a factory application there is another arm that comes from the bracket on the tranny that connects to the rod that connects to the column. That other arm works to reverse the direction of the shifter, in other words as the shifter pushes down on that arm clockwise the other end of it that actually attaches to the tranny turns the opposite direction. I can take some pictures if it helps...

[OrrieG]

I have it in right. I crawled under my Chevelle and checke the location of low and park. The instructions that came with the cable and trans bracket were very clear to about the install and adjustment. KEy is making sure the distance from the center of the column to hole in column arm is the same as arm at the trans. If they are not the same the column detents aill not match the trans position ans you can get the trans between gears - not good!

[OrrieG]

ChuckDriver and Disco -Forgot to say thanks for the comment, I do appreciate others looking and offering suggestions or comments.

[discodadee]

Dude, this is my favorite thread! I read it every time there's a post!

[ChuckDriver]

OrrieG
I'm not at all try to stir up any trouble, just looking for options to change mine over to a cable from the Kugel setup I have. I looked at your pitures in Post 134, and looking at the cable at the column it looks to me that as you move the gear selector from Park, R N D and L that the cable is pushed IN the housing. Then down at the trans the cable will be pushed OUT of the housing causing the trans shift arm to rotate clockwise. I looked at my 350 trans and my shift arm is at the 9 oclock position in Park and moves counter-clockwise to the 6 oclock positon. This is however done with a solid rod, see the link to Kugel.

I think the cable can work as a pusher, but the shift arm has to start in the 12 oclock postion and move towards the 9 oclock position.

The Kugel piture shows the Trans in the D or L position.

I hope I was able to make my point and NOT offend anyone!!

[OrrieG]

Chuck I looked and you are correct, somehow I got it backwards in my head. Thanks. I need to rotate the tranny arm to the up position and "adjust" the bracket so it will push CCW. Like someone else said, install once for R&D then a second time for refinement!

[OrrieG]

Progress: Boring stuff, not even pic worthy. Ground, cleaned and primed the seat frame. Repaired the battery box, front was rusted out. Trimmed the trans cab cover for a better fit. Going to start on the bed prep tomorrow, clean up all the cross rails, fender support rods. Still not staying warm enough here at night to paint anything. May have to move on to pulling the donor motor and cleaning it up and installing it.

Anyone have a deluxe stock heater control they want to part with, I dug mine out and I had forgotten that the levers were trashed?

Thanks for looking.

[OrrieG]

Whoppee quality day of etch and priming all the stuff I've been working on this winter. Fenders, doors, inner fender panels, radiator support, grille surround, bed rails and other small stuff. I'll post pics later forgot to bring the camera card reader thingy home. Tomorrow want to try and get the black on everything that gets it then finish the body work on fenders, doors, cab. Welding is done, just plastic work, I am optomistic that I can do one piece per evening, they aren't that rough. Then its motor time...

[OrrieG]

Pictures of the poor-boy paint booth and major pieces primed.

[OrrieG]

more

[cajundragger]

I hate you and your no rust.

Looks good man, Im jealous.

[ChuckDriver]

Looking good!

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by cajundragger

I hate you and your no rust.

Looks good man, Im jealous.

You will hate my 64 Malibu daily driver too! Only rust is over the rear wheel wells. Here is a couple of photos with the heart transplant, I have the original 283 and PG for my future resto.

[Bigblue29]

Holy smokes thats a clean Malibu. Good progress on the truck too!

[bensimmons_05]

So you etch prime first, then coat bondo, then seal, then paint?

Would that be right? Do you have to scuff the etching primer before you bondo or not.

I know everybody does these things in different orders, but what is your order?

[OrrieG]

Based on the old pro at the paint shop I etch primed (light coat you don't need to over do it and it reduces runs) then primed. I used Dupont Nason products. He said the plastic (I use Rage) will stick to the paint as well as metal. So far it appears to be doing fine. I do not have any heavy build areas. I sand down to the etch at the plastic areas with 80 grit. If you want the specific paint numbers I can get them when I get home.

[bensimmons_05]

You don't have to get the numbers, I was just wondering how you did it.

It is an ongoing debate about bondo over etch or not.

Usually the old school guys view it as a body working SIN, but the truth is with the properties of the etching primer it is made to chemically bond to that kind of stuff so it should be fine.

I use rage also.

The only thing I was never really sure of is whether you actually sand it before you bondo, so thanks a bunch for your input.

Looks like things are coming alond NICELY!!!! Can't wait to see this truck come together.

[my67chevytruck]

nice progress.

[OrrieG]

Getting close on the fenders and doors. Once fender was ok, no dents or rust. One door just needed a little bondo at old mirror attachment holes. Here are shots of the driver fender (eyebrow, bottom at back brace and other dents) and passenger door (some one dropped something at one time on the door, it was originally a service truck and I think something may have fallen off or a fork lift or dock on to it). One more bit of sanding and they should be done too. Also cleaned up the drive lines and primed them and finished the mods to the bed cross brace at the new gas tank (added an angle to it) and primed it.

[OrrieG]

Finally back to it. Realized that I was spending too much time on blocking, etc. that can, and probably should, be done with body assembled on the frame. So doors, cab and fenders are 95%. I removed the cab from the frame so I can finish all the small stuff and get the interior of the cab painted without worrying about masking and overspray on all the new frame stuff.

Except for exhaust and wiring everything under the cab is done. Booster vac line installed, brake pedel return spring, emergency brake cables, trans vac line (see photo) and trans cooler (see photo). I plumbed in a tee for a trans temp gauge. Also note the cool trans line bracket. I got it at the hydralic supply store for $5. It is split plastic with metal base/captive nut and metal cap with bolt that goes through the plastic. I welded it to an angle which bolts to the frame. Not quite at spiffy as the $30 billet ones but I like the idea of the plastic instead of metal to metal. They also come set up for use in Unistrut and punched square tubing support systems.

Next is the fun stuff, cleaning up the donor engine and installing it.

[OrrieG]

Checked to make sure the vacuum booster works, hooked up my air hose to Chevelle vacuum on manifold and ran to the booster, works great. Ordered my EZ Wire harness, in the proceess someone snagged my Mastercard number I use for online stuff and tried to buy some stuff in Italy. The amount exceed the available balance and we have a zero overdraft set up on the card so the bank called and we cancelled the card. Also learned that Rage Gold flashes in about 60 seconds at 94 degree air temp. Tried twice last night to do some plastic work and only got about a minute of board time, so that is on hold until it cools down. Got the 74 engine ready to pull, today the mock up engine comes out, goes into storage and the 350 comes out for prep and painting. Supposed to be over 100 and is alread 95 before noon. Frig is packed with good microbrew beer so all is well. Take it easy Orrie

[OrrieG]

Mockup engine is packed away, its .030 over pistons will be used for rebuilding my 64 Chevelles original engine. Pulled the donor engine, pressure washed it and stripped it down to paint. I stoked this feels like progress. Need to choose some valve covers and have a vintage Edleblock dual plane manifold for it. Also need an HEI, anyone have any good ones for reasonable price?? Heres some pics.

[54 jimmy]

i've got a set of factory chrome script valve covers if you are intrested. they have a couple of dings but can be hammered and dollied out. chrome is in great shape. i am selling them at a lose because i need them gone so i can fund my trucks build a little.