GRIZZ’s English 2001 S10 Extra Cab 4.3 V6 Truck

[Grizz1963]

So.

Weirdly, no comments from you guys tonight.

And tonight I am as chuffed as a chuffed thing could ever be.

So yesterday at 4.00pm I got to meet Thomasz at Kerbed Wheels for the first time.

My £200.00 and £10.00 for stripping the tyres, wheels were in the back of the car when I spoke to him, after watching him incognito for at least 5 minutes, without him knowing I was watching.

This guy was hitting about 4 work stations, including the powder coating room, wheel machining mill, chemical stripping tank and a mug of certainly cold tea with an amazing ease.

Stuff like this buoys my confidence.

So I asked for advice, recommendations on how to manage my wheels.

He suggested dark anthracite, based on my love of the colour, and wanting to play with the trucks colours as a match.

I spoke to him about machine faces wheels, and the varied opinions, and he made a very valid point in pointing out that the durability is often associated with wheels being damaged.

He sold the idea to me, and at £15.00 extra per wheel, compared to £30.00 per wheel elsewhere, it seemed more viable.

It’s not always about the actual money, but rather the principle.


So we carried the wheels in at about 4.00pm


He took my details and wrote up the job order.


So at £75.00 per wheel, which includes removing existing tyres, and disposing if needed, blasting, chemical stripping, powder coating, followed by machine cutting of the faces, and then refitting the tyres or new tyres, new valves and balancing, I was into these wheels for £300.00 at Kerbed Wheels.

Being the sneaky curse word that I am, I had picked up on his accent and saying “Thank you” to him in Lithuanian surprised him, making him laugh and resulted in a voluntary 10% discount offer, so £30.00 back into my pocket.

He had also quoted £10.00 per centre cap for a paint match, which I had declined to his relief.

He reckoned the wheels would be done by Monday at the latest.

Today at. 2.00pm I called him to say the new 235/60 R16 Avon ZX7 tyres that I had ordered online from Black Circles costing £262.00 delivered, would be delivered on Monday.

He was slightly surprised and told me the last wheel had just gone into the CNC machine for cutting., I did ask him for a photo of the wheel in the machine, but did not get it.

This guy works at a crazy pace.


While the centre caps were a failure today, I will redo them tomorrow and hope they come out well.

If the DIY is a failure, I will go to plan B which is paying £100.00 or $140.00 for a set of Chinese chromed plastic centre caps.




Anyone interested in what greeted me at Kerbed Wheels when I got there at 3.00 this afternoon ??


I have never spent this much money on wheels and tyres in my life and this will actually turn at £900.00 or $1260.00 ince fitted to the truck.

The way I justify it was to say the truck is in such good condition that it deserves to be treated well.



When I got there, there was also proof that they strip more than just wheels.

Vespa scooter frame.





Then on to the wheels.

Mind blown.

STARTING WITH THIS





Dark Anthracite and silver.









And with my not so sexy centre cap fitted.





I really do live these wheels and and so pleased I did nor do this myself.


Enough??

[Just call me Sean]

Wow, that looks awesome. And seems like a really good deal too. I don't know the value of Monopoly money but I paid $50 per wheel just to have slotted lug holes drilled for standard lug nut inserts.

[Palf70Step]

Those look awesome Rian. That is the color combo for sure! I thing you center caps will come out good also. JUst a bit more clean/sanding, then the respray.

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Just call me Sean

Wow, that looks awesome. And seems like a really good deal too. I don't know the value of Monopoly money but I paid $50 per wheel just to have slotted lug holes drilled for standard lug nut inserts.

One Momopoly Pound £1.00 will cost you $1.40

Thank you, I am really pleased with all of it.

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Those look awesome Rian. That is the color combo for sure! I thing you center caps will come out good also. JUst a bit more clean/sanding, then the respray.

Center caps may be deleted, depending on how far the guns stick out.





Went back to the rear fog lamp today.

Removed it all, including the fiddly wiring and plugs.

Then soldered some extensions and reassembled, and tested.



On Friday I also bought a much better quality toggle switch for the fogs to replace what was there, plan is to relocate up to the to[ of the dash.



.

Today I did quite a few little jobs.

Also removed the broken tail gate handle finger plate.



Leaving a gaping hole.



Disassembled, then glued the stainless outer to the new part.



@spacekadett sent me a pic and story of the truck at a show. Some more history came with his text.

I will just do a straight copy and paste.

Afternoon, it had been bugging me that I kind of recognised your truck from somewhere, just couldn’t remember where. Anyway I got a message from a friend who saw my post on the thread but couldn’t remember his login to reply himself 😂. I’ll see if I can copy and paste the message. He is Happy for you to share the info 🙂
I can’t remember my log in ... but this is my uncle Xxxx’s old truck, the lady is probably Xxxxx 😂 So yep Tom did all the work on it,
Xxxx bought it via Tom when one of Tom’s customers passed away
Yep it got caught up in the house / separating curse word with Xxxx and Xxxxx

But the chap that had it before had loads of yanks and Tom helped find new homes for them

It was very well looked after, it did get a light tap up the back when Xxxx had it as he had to have paint done on the bed and new lights if I remember right

@pauly may know the place.



And yesterday “The lady with the truck” also sent a couple from when she owned it, as well as a Camarillo she had at the time.







Right, bedtime.

[Grizz1963]

Centre caps Take 2

Or is that Grand Finale?


Left them to dry overnight with the knackered primer, then stripped some of it back, realising I was not going to strip them totally.

So a plan hatched to create a set of 10 yard caps.




Followed by a dusting of satin black, for shiny chrome results, go with gloss paint. Mr Impatient did not want to go buy more paint, rather choosing to use what was on site.



Followed by 4 more coats, building up, despite the messy finish I chose to go with.



Then I started on the chrome finish.

Disappointed, but I chose the satin base.

Leaving a more aluminised finish.

Painting them Indoors as the wind was just too much outside.





Outside to dry.





And that’s what we have.


Happy with it, certainly better than what I started with.








A few people on a few forums and FB questioned whether one could get away without the centre caps altogether.

It is a possibility. Depending on what exactly pokes through the centre bore holes.

A flat cap, and chrome wheel nuts could change the look completely.





Right.


Time to get outside and start on the front indicator reworking and tidying up.


Remember what they looked like?

[Palf70Step]

Your caps came out very nice Rian. Never thought of the wheels without them, but I do like the look with just the small center cap.

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Your caps came out very nice Rian. Never thought of the wheels without them, but I do like the look with just the small center cap.

There’s a good chance, if the centre bore is not impacted, that I will go this route.




I will admit to having a very foul mouth on me.

Today I was certainly tested.

One job was really easy and a great result presented.

The other........

Back in a bit after dinner to look for sympathy.

[Grizz1963]

Well, at this point I suspect most of you have forgotten and thought I had finished fitting the LED indicators.

Wrong.

Cold and not getting it done happened.

Today and yesterday were warm days, so I got a few things done to the truck.

So this morning I started the process of tidying and wiring in the resistors and LED lamps.

Cut off .



New wires added as the bodged up U.K. MOT standard wiring is just so crappy, and throw out the day I realised that the flamed professionals we often hand out our cash to should not be allowed to eat with much more than a spoon.



Testing to ensure it all came together correctly.

Works



Then soldered and sealed up.



Then on to the second one, passenger side.

Look at all the damage where some genius cut the wires to add in the side repeaters, just incredible that two,cuts were needed.



Why an inch long extension?

Seriously.



Next up, I tried to figure what was up with the passenger side repeater that had stopped working previously.

Unravelling this lot, 3 random joins from,side repeaters to front of the truck where I was tidying up the wiring.

Again...... why?



Back to this mess on the passenger,front setup.

To see if I could figure the side repeaters out.



While I was disassembling the historical fixes, the side repeaters started to work again.

Dry joint?

I also opened and checked both rear lights, disassembled and reassembled it all.

The passenger side rear indicator bulb started to work after I pulled and refitted it.

Another mess to disassemble another day and rebuild more tidily



At this point I had tidied up, soldered and shrinked the second bulb fitting, and just wound it all together to test.

FAIL !

Now everything blinked too fast, there are small side markers in the headlights that also blinked, and inside the cab, the radio display blinked along with the indicators when the headlights were off.
If I turned on the headlights, the radio display blacked out.

Note the side light in the headlights.



ALSO.......

We now had one LED showing white and one Amber if you look closely.



Electronics are a dark art, and I just don’t get it.

So in the phone to @Rider51 Henry, a long conversation, videos and him writing notes furiously.

I also tried to get hold of @craigrk and mate Martin.

Martin went off on his typical explanation, he lives and breathes micro circuitry, and assumes, wrongly, I understand. Anyway, he tried bravely and I offered to kiss his butt if what he said was true. Seems I have a butt to kiss some time.

After 4 hours of working on this job from hell, I managed to get it sorted.

Martin had told me that these lamps actually have defined polarity, I disagreed, as it fits any way, and looks the same both sides.

Wrong.



The crazy thing is, over the lat few weeks these have gone in and out of my pockets many many times, and me as it seems, 99% of the time I managed to fit them correctly to create white light at rest and Amber when activated.

Randomly, after speaking with Henry and Martin, I tried the one lamp, removing and switching through 180 degrees, and believe it, the colour changed.

Then I switched the passenger side lamp around and everything changed,



Once established, I soldered and heat shrunk all the joints.

The breeze all day messed with soldering outside and also the lighter flame to do the heat shrink, maybe time to buy a little blow flame.

So in order to make it all work, I threw my painting groundsheet over my head, swore like a sailor and carried on.



Much better.



Lastly, a quick video of it all working.

https://youtu.be/jdIu7KdpWs0


Really happy that the weekend is over and actually delivered an outcome I wanted.

.

[Palf70Step]

That was something I learned doing led dash lights. They only work one way, I had to mark each bulb , then get it into the socket with the correct polarity. As you said, can be a real pain.

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

That was something I learned doing led dash lights. They only work one way, I had to mark each bulb , then get it into the socket with the correct polarity. As you said, can be a real pain.

Well, despite a 40 minute job taking 4 hours, I did learn some stuff.






So today I saw this, loved it.



I have a chassis stashed away. One day for sure.

Also got a message from Robert who has sold n]me an original airbag steering wheel.

And a picture of the parcel he has made up.



At about 13,30 the doorbell rang.

Wooohooo.......


Tyres.





Loaded.





Gues what next?/

[Grizz1963]

Got to go back to Friday.

When the wheels were being machined.

A few pics and a short video to add to the information about the process.

Being milled.

Click video link.

https://youtu.be/M1Lr_CGuZBE



Followed by more machine polishing.



So today I gave the new lodger a ride to the station after meeting number 3, also stopping to drop off the new tyres to be fitted and balanced by Kerbed Wheels

I was talking to Thomas about the wheels on the Rezin Rockit and before I even left, the first tyre was fitted and balance.

Big grin, this guy really loves his job.



So I left the wheels and tyres to be fitted while I went to buy some food and drop the lodger at the station as he was headed home to Wales.

I also bought some chocolate as a desktop thank you for the guys, beers would not be appropriate



When I got back, the wheels were waiting and another chat about mate Bills wheels in Scotland, which he wants them to do when he has settled in his new home.

We loaded the wheels and I headed back home, big grin on my face.



Unpacked the food and was caught out by evening creeping in on me.

So nothing fitted, I also need to order some new chrome wheel nuts.

Thanks for checking in and thanks to those of you commenting.

Much appreciated.

[Grizz1963]

[quote author="@kevins" source="/post/2661562/thread" timestamp="1614077045"]They are going to look great, when is the big reveal?[/quote]


Well....


More pics later as a tease.


I actually was on the driveway at 07.00 today, before starting work.


Have fitted and photographed two on the truck.


Some new wheel nuts needed, and centre caps to be figured out as the front hub centres protrude by about 70mm or so.



And more importantly, before selling off the Cragars.........




A SERIOUS BURNOUT VIDEO NEEDS TO BE MADE.



I really wish I had someone with a drone camera to film overhead and then it could be turned into a very short, well edited video with two or three angles being filmed.



The tame stunt driver would have to be @pauly as he knows how to rip the assssss out of assphalt



Remember this???


Paul came to fetch a work bench, note all the furniture on the rear.


HOOLIGAN SUPREME


https://youtu.be/ucVmsET4BFw


Bonus.


https://youtu.be/G1YSoQ5r3_Y


And Pete in his C10


https://youtu.be/dHyB08wmJm8

[Grizz1963]

So I got the wheels home.

Unpacked and rolled them around back.

A few random pics and my observations.

Firstly, the need a clean to remove the “glide soap” from the tyres.

Front and back. Powder coating allround. Only mounting faces left fresh n clean out the blasting cabonet.

Thomas told me the cabinet took 14 minutes to do a complete wheel.



Front side.

Note the way the light actually plays and lightens the dark Anthracite



Rear faces. Love the dark rim, great for brake dust and road grime cammo.



Also tried it with a repainted centre cap in place.



Then mocked them next to the truck.

They are quite a lot taller than the 17” Cragars. Around 45mm so a gain of 20-ish mm





All done.

Nicely stashed indoors. You dont want them to get wet now, do you ?



I must be honest I wanted to fit them but failing daylight was my excuse.


More later.

[Palf70Step]

Your center caps look good on those wheels Rian! Once they are mounted I think you will have a super looking combo on the truck. I like the taller tires myself.

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Your center caps look good on those wheels Rian! Once they are mounted I think you will have a super looking combo on the truck. I like the taller tires myself.

Thanks Bill.

I am a fan of comfort, and low profile tyres can be pretty uncomfortable



Ready or not.........

07.00 this morning I was out there, the night had been long, waiting to get up and test fit.



Couple of things became apparent, brakes have not worked for a while, pushing and pulling the truck around on the driveway.



Also, top and bottom control arms need to be serviced and greased, just like my 1966 C10 grease nipples everywhere.



And the turning circle may be impaired by wheels that are too wide, compared to OEM fitment rubber.



Then, on to the front and rear hubs.

Fronts now show why we have those huge Mexican hats as centre caps.

Needs around 60-70mm tall caps/cups up front, there is also space for a spigot ring, or for the cups to become captive from behind.

Maybe a spigot ring is not needed, but the wheel is sitting nice and loose.





Rears fit tight enough that it needed to be whacked to remove after the test fit.

So some flat cap will work here.



The truck also came with locking wheel nuts, something I dislike intensely, and I did not get the socket that unlocks it when I bought it.

Thankfully I managed to get both loose, one was quite loose, possibly finger tight.

So getting decent new nuts makes sense

[Grizz1963]

SILVER OR BLACK


Silver



Black


Choices.


Photoshop may help

Originally Posted by sparkplug

does this help?

[Palf70Step]

I prefer the silver myself, but the black is OK also.

[Just call me Sean]

I like the silver.

[Tx Firefighter]

Silver

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

I prefer the silver myself, but the black is OK also.

Originally Posted by Just call me Sean

I like the silver.

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Silver

I am still in two minds, there are a few options at this point.





@forddan68 and @freshandminty are possibly along with a few others the guys to ask about this.......


Wheel protection.


One of my friends, Paul, off a bike forum suggested I consider protecting the wheels with the following product.

And Henry @rider51 suggested ceramic coating.

Now in my wildest dreams I never thought there was a way to protect the protection on the wheels, but there is a learning in every day.


What is the consensus here please





I was looking at some really manky wheels in Romford, supposedly from a Cobra (Replica?) that were Ex Jaguar to possibly run as winter wheels.


Seller reckons the tyres are good, I am not convinced.

I showed him the rears on the truck, even the central moulding stripe has not been run off, Nankangs, and yet, in my book, only good for destruction.





These do look pretty rubbish for £50.00 but could they be a chance worth taking @rider51 ?

Imagine them blasted, painted with Hammerite or some bronze type colour, winter wheels.






And finally, pics taken this morning.

These were removed again after the photoshoot, done for the pleasure of those of you who do take the time to write, click respond, share knowledge.





And the rear view.

Really happy so far.




Once I figure the wheel nuts, centre caps etc, we should be in business.


Next job.........???

[Grizz1963]

Man in a brown van rang the doorbell.


I was made happy.





Thanks to Robert Pilgrim for selling me an original airbag leather covered steering wheel for the truck, as a standby to replace the Grant wheel fitted, originally wanted to replace it, but have got used to it now.
So it will be stashed along with some other original parts just to keep the truck as original as possible.
At £40.00 for the steering plus airbag charge, he did me a massive favour, and courier was £15.00 so a total of £55.00



Also included in the parcel was an intact top cowl for the radiator as mine is in bits, including riveted pieces to keep it together. Chuffed to bits to be able to repair this.

When my battery started to fail, I replaced it, and on removing the old unit, I realised the tray was filled with holes.
Again, Robert found me one on his outward bound steel scrap pile. FOC
This needs to be media blasted and then primed and painted.

Most importantly.......

Alongside the new wheels I bought, there were no wheel nuts.

And these trucks use a specialised wheel nut to go with the centre caps.

Look at the detail. 20 vital parts.



So threads on the outside as well,.



The plastic caps screw onto the wheel nuts, holding the centre caps in place.








Sold the 5 Cragars to a good friend last night for his 80’s Dayvan build.

Tyres, as mentioned before were great as far as tread is concerned.

Rears are good for burnouts...... @pauly is on standby.



And fronts, not really good for a jolly to the coast, are they.



Today I wanted to tint the side glass, but between the weather and the day job, all I got done was to give the stuck a decent wash, and it does like to be clean and shiny.

While washing, I noticed the exhaust tailpipe........... made me wonder if this is all one system, recalling the video @pauly made the day I departed in it.





https://youtu.be/ZppLk-f7nBs


Also did another small job today.

More later.

[Just call me Sean]

Looking good. Those winter wheels are really old school.

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Just call me Sean

Looking good. Those winter wheels are really old school.

Decided to pass on them, seller also did not reply to my questions.



Little jobs

Little jobs

All get done, eventually.

Some sooner than others.

This one is a pain in the butt, because of the amount of dismantling needed to get it done, not quote the same as popping a new toilet roll on, though I believe even that is a struggle for some.

So Rob sent me these bits.



And the battery tray, though a lot better than mine, still needed work.

Rough as a badgers bum.



So I thought about it.

Wire wheel, or blast it, except my blasting cabinet is 80 miles from here with Craig as he is cleaning small bits for his sons Mk1 Golf Rabbit Cabriolet

So plan B ?

Take a chance and run down to the industrial estate to Kerbed Wheels to ask Thomas how much t do it. “Leave it here, come back tomorrow” was his reply.

So yesterday at about 4.30 I ran down there again to find he had blasted it for me, Cost? No charge, because he had done it after they shut down shop on Wednesday evening.

Pleased with that.

Loads of pitting from all the rust, I guess the are cheaply made parts and are also exposed to weather and having a concave shape, water may stay there a bit longer and drive the rusting process. Add to that, cheap mass produced paint, and you certainly have a recipe for disaster in the long term.


Result.



By the time I got home it was 5.30 so I decided to get the etch primer out and my heat gun.

Warmed the piece up, primed it one side, dried it and turned over, repeat.



Then on to three coats of satin black, again lighter than usual, but dried with help inbetween.

First coat down.



And then three coats later, it looks glossy, is actually dry, but it is a high impact wheel paint, so surprised me with the final finish.

The pitting is very obvious now as well, but does not bother me, as it is an improvement, and will be going down under the battery.

As an add in, I will add some strips of rubber (maybe old inner tube material) to absorb some of the movement when the battery is bolted down.



Little jobs indeed.

[Palf70Step]

Nice work on the battery holder Rian. Between quality of parts and the ooozing of batteries, they do get pitted . Luckily the battery hides most of it.

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Nice work on the battery holder Rian. Between quality of parts and the ooozing of batteries, they do get pitted . Luckily the battery hides most of it.

I suspect they are very much bargain/budget parts.

Great advice from @jamesd1972 to add a coat of underbody protection in stead of a lump of rubber thats liable to hold water in place and promote rust.

So during a work meeting, I went and painted it quickly.



While doing another little job today, I also crawled under the truck to take a look at the exhaust system.

Seems we have a lot more Magnaflow stainless parts under the truck.

Someone in the past spent a lot of money on this truck.

I guess I am also doing the same, spending chunks of money on seeing it right as my long list of fixes continues to grow,



I continue to be pleased with the truck and what it is proving to be.

The extras and upgraded parts on the truck when added up are approaching 60% of the price I paid, crazy man maths.