Mcgaughys Big Brake Kit

[DKN]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

aggie91 I have looked hard at Wilwood as well as all the other name brands. Even Baer makes a good looking reasonable priced rear kit. Unfortunately the matching front kit gets really pricey on all of them.

The CPP kit is a real bargain compared to the other brands. If they were to make a matching 13" rear, I would go that way. Since they don't (yet), I am leaning toward the McGaughys combo.

We don’t currently offer a 13” rear brake and we are not planning on it until we have a 14” front brake. The rear brake should be smaller than the front. You do not want the rear brake to lockup and skid. This will cause the truck to spin out of control. Here is a typical example; I bought my Jeep used. It has 12” front disc with 11” rear drums. The rear drums were a special ordered option. The rear always locked up under medium to heavy braking. I tried different adjustable proportioning valves, but always had a problem. The MCPV1 master cylinder worked. It turns out that the rear drums lock up at 350psi so the MCPV1 is adjusted to rear max pressure of 325psi. With this set up my Jeep actually stops super good. I’m very curious is anyone actually driving around with 13” front and 13” rear brakes? How do they actually work? Does the rear lock up first? We would like to know before we start producing larger brake kits.

Thanks, Danny Nix
CPP

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by DKN

We don’t currently offer a 13” rear brake and we are not planning on it until we have a 14” front brake. The rear brake should be smaller than the front. You do not want the rear brake to lockup and skid. This will cause the truck to spin out of control. Here is a typical example; I bought my Jeep used. It has 12” front disc with 11” rear drums. The rear drums were a special ordered option. The rear always locked up under medium to heavy braking. I tried different adjustable proportioning valves, but always had a problem. The MCPV1 master cylinder worked. It turns out that the rear drums lock up at 350psi so the MCPV1 is adjusted to rear max pressure of 325psi. With this set up my Jeep actually stops super good. I’m very curious is anyone actually driving around with 13” front and 13” rear brakes? How do they actually work? Does the rear lock up first? We would like to know before we start producing larger brake kits.

Thanks, Danny Nix
CPP

My GF's BMW w/14" F/R discs doesn't seem to have any issue w/rear lock-up .

I would investigate selling a matching 13" rear kit for use w/that MCPV1 since it's adjustable. At least try a set for evaluation.

[nlped]

I have the 13" McGaughy kits on my '76 Blazer with the CPP M/C & p/v, and it works GREAT! It'll sling the snot out of your nose under hard braking, but no lock up

[aggie91]

Sorry guys, I got home and did not get on the computer at all, too many other things...

The article was in th August 2009 issue.

Looks like others have chimmed in and even posted pics of the 16" front set that was done in another newer issue...

[N2TRUX]

Danny- I respect your knowledge, but don't follow your theory with that as there are 12/12" or 13/13" kits out there. Granted most of those 13/13" kits have double or triple the amount of pistons per caliper so that may be the difference.

Let me know if you need a test truck. I'll be glad to dial in a 13" rear kit for you.

[nlped]

Just to clarify on the McGaughy kit, the front calipers are rather large 2 piston and the rears are a single piston set up. So the brake bias is there.

[N2TRUX]

To take that thought even further, look at the kits that Captain Fab is putting together. He is using D52 replacement calipers front and rear so you have the exact same size caliper and rotor.

[DKN]

I just wanted to know if these worked good. My experiance is telling me that these should have too much rear brake. So far it seams like it works really well with the MCPV1 master cylinder.
Our brake kits with hard/long life tires typicaly stop a truck from 60mph between 130ft and 120ft; with better tires we get stops approaching 110ft. If CPP does make a 13" rear kit we do not want to upset the balance and end up with longer stopping distances. I was just asking so I can get a little more information before we move forward.

Thanks for the responses.

Sincerly, Danny Nix
CPP

[87chevy.com]

I need to measure out what my truck stops at.. that sucker stops hard and fast. The front brakes will lock up before the rears will (which is desired) when trying to stop on the dime. Its a dang good setup in my opinion, and I posted some numbers in my original thread : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=392474

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

Finally got some numbers... with hp tuners hooked up to the truck, and scanning the run, Ive got some stoping numbers..
60-0 = 5.249
50-0 = 4.540
45-0 = 3.562
35-0 = 3.245

These were calculated from the time bar on the bottom oh HPtuners. The front wheels definatly locked, I believe the rears didnt... but not sure. some not sure which when the truck slid, at lower speeds, I let up and re applied. These numbers are off of the VSS rather than distance.... which will be my next stage... I will have some cones at a certian mark and go at various speeds and record the distance traveled. I think that might be more accurate. The VSS would read 0mph if the trucks wheels are locked up... either way... heres some numbers fresh off the scanner...
clint

I didnt think to get a tape measure measurement which is more accurate than the VSS speed. The front brakes on my truck are bone stock (11.5") front... oreilly severe duty pads, and the rears stock junk yard brakes off of an 02 new dodge 1/2 ton (13.8") rears. So in this application, the rears are retarded big compared to the fronts. Im using the stock brake system (booster, M/C and prop valve).

I started a new thread to compliment the McGaughys front Corvette Rotor and Silverado truck calipers.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=415021

clint

[CMC_86]

How much can the turned down axle flanges hold up to? I have the front/rear mcgaughys brake kits, but I'm not sure if I should turn my current flanges down or look for a different kit.

[nlped]

I have done my stock rear axles, and I have used the '76 Blazer that the system is installed on to pull several loaded trailers, including a car trailer with my '88 2wd Suburban loaded on it. The set up didn't require much be removed at all, just enough to fit inside the rotor hat, the material from the center hub has no impact on the axles strength. There was still plenty remaining after the machine work was completed.

I would highly recommend the kit, as my Blazer now stops like a sports car!!!

[c10seconds]

Originally Posted by nlped

I have done my stock rear axles, and I have used the '76 Blazer that the system is installed on to pull several loaded trailers, including a car trailer with my '88 2wd Suburban loaded on it. The set up didn't require much be removed at all, just enough to fit inside the rotor hat, the material from the center hub has no impact on the axles strength. There was still plenty remaining after the machine work was completed.

I would highly recommend the kit, as my Blazer now stops like a sports car!!!

Hey npled would you mind posting a pic of how you did your prop valve/mc? Also i remember you mentioning that you weren't getting the stopping results you were expecting. What ended up being the problem?

[nlped]

Originally Posted by c10seconds

Hey npled would you mind posting a pic of how you did your prop valve/mc? Also i remember you mentioning that you weren't getting the stopping results you were expecting. What ended up being the problem?

Sure can...Here's a link to the one I used with a picture. http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...cks/MCPVS4.htm

And, my primary issue ended up just being a bad o.e. proportioning valve. I had gutted it to remove the rear brake pressure control so that the new one would be in control. I redid some lines just to bypass the o.e. p/v and rebleed the system, and now it stops like a racecar compared to when it was stock!!!

I am actually in the process of relocating the CPP p/v into the o.e. location so I can do away with the original one. I am also replacing all of the o.e. lines with S/S from inlinetube.com... great company to work with! I take that last statement back...rip off artists!!!

[jkade]

Originally Posted by DKN

We don’t currently offer a 13” rear brake and we are not planning on it until we have a 14” front brake. The rear brake should be smaller than the front. You do not want the rear brake to lockup and skid. This will cause the truck to spin out of control. Here is a typical example; I bought my Jeep used. It has 12” front disc with 11” rear drums. The rear drums were a special ordered option. The rear always locked up under medium to heavy braking. I tried different adjustable proportioning valves, but always had a problem. The MCPV1 master cylinder worked. It turns out that the rear drums lock up at 350psi so the MCPV1 is adjusted to rear max pressure of 325psi. With this set up my Jeep actually stops super good. I’m very curious is anyone actually driving around with 13” front and 13” rear brakes? How do they actually work? Does the rear lock up first? We would like to know before we start producing larger brake kits.

Thanks, Danny Nix
CPP

My dad had 13.25" cobra rotors with c5 calipers front and rear on his 66 vette and had zero problems. He had front dual piston calipers mounted on the rear just like the front. I know that isn't a c10 but it worked on the car.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by DKN

.... If CPP does make a 13" rear kit we do not want to upset the balance and end up with longer stopping distances. I was just asking so I can get a little more information before we move forward....

Do you need a test pilot? If so, I'm in....

[c10seconds]

Originally Posted by nlped

Sure can...Here's a link to the one I used with a picture. http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...cks/MCPVS4.htm

And, my primary issue ended up just being a bad o.e. proportioning valve. I had gutted it to remove the rear brake pressure control so that the new one would be in control. I redid some lines just to bypass the o.e. p/v and rebleed the system, and now it stops like a racecar compared to when it was stock!!!

I am actually in the process of relocating the CPP p/v into the o.e. location so I can do away with the original one. I am also replacing all of the o.e. lines with S/S from inlinetube.com... great company to work with! I take that last statement back...rip off artists!!!

Lol! I was just about to look them up until i noticed the edit.

Glad you got it all squared away. I didn't have my front kit on long enough to really test them out the way i wanted to. Darnit!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by nlped

I have the 13" McGaughy kits on my '76 Blazer with the CPP M/C & p/v, and it works GREAT! It'll sling the snot out of your nose under hard braking, but no lock up

How well does the E-brake work. This is shows to be the best value 13/13 kit on the market. Is the e-brake functional, or just for show?

[nlped]

Well, I finally replaced all of the o.e. brake hard lines with s/s ones. I also put the disc/disc p/v from CPP in the stock location so I could do away with the gutted stock p/v. Less moving parts should mean less items to fail . So now the entire braking system is new except for the pedal .

I took it out and really drove it a good bit yesterday, and it stops like a champ, but the pedal is still a little lower than I would like. I have bled and bled the system and have no air in the lines, M/C, or p/v. It's almost like the push rod from the Brake Booster into the Corvette M/C (A new Booster, new CPP Corvette M/C w/ a strange looking "bullet" piece as the pushrod extention) may be a bit too short and it isn't engaging right off. Ever heard of this?

Oh, and N2Trux, the parking brake cables they send with the kit are for a pickup and are a bit too short for the Blazer. I am going to move the stock parking brake bracket back so the cables will work properly. I am thinking this could be my problem with the pedal as well, as the parking brake adjustment is responsible for the rear brake "air gap". I'll work on this one night this week.

I added the pics just to show the existing set up. The m/c has since been sanded and painted, so it looks way better than this pic.

[c10seconds]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Those are the 16" brakes that KP (Chris Alston's Chassisworks) offers... can you say $4Gs for front only. We will be doing a build starting in a month or so that's getting these bad boys.

Nate, what's the current pricing on that 16" chris alston kit? Has it come down any from 4k?
Posted via Mobile Device

[andrewmp6]

Yeah they dropped a nickle lol http://www.kplinks.com/product.php?p...&cat=95&page=1

[c10seconds]

Lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by c10seconds

Nate, what's the current pricing on that 16" chris alston kit? Has it come down any from 4k?
Posted via Mobile Device

Not sure... but I have a customer who purchased a complete 16" BEAR kit for front and rear for a 68 that he is no longer going to build. If you are interested let me know and I can get you his number. Not sure what he's asking.

I know retail on those big brakes is pretty insane.... even for ballers like C10seconds! LOL

[BurlyCrew]

Have these McGaughys Front and Rear kits improved over the years since these problems? Rear problems are we talking about stock axles or aftermarket axles?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by BurlyCrew

Have these McGaughys Front and Rear kits improved over the years since these problems? Rear problems are we talking about stock axles or aftermarket axles?

We stopped selling them. Seems there has been much better success with the CPP 13" brake kit. It's a little more money but less headache in the end.

[BurlyCrew]

Ok thanks for the info, thought the price was too good to be true and any good, LOL