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07-25-2021, 02:23 PM | #1 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Someone in the local car club has a "327 C.I. Racing engine short block. Dome pistons, large intake valves, Edmunds high rise intake manifold, bored out 20 thousandths, machine shop done. $875" Someone told me (long time ago) that size engine has the same reciprocating mass as a 350, why not just get that instead. But I just looked at prices for crate engines, now way.
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07-25-2021, 03:29 PM | #2 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
327s were highly regarded by hotrodders, even over the 350. Something about a longer stoke -- they could rev higher. The 350 was designed to be a public-proof truck engine. An expert with more V8 experience can explain it better.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
08-31-2021, 11:00 PM | #3 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I've been seeing a wide range of opinions about keeping the 307, if modifications are worth it (generally not worth it). Long as it purrs like it is, not touching it.
I'm planning to go camping, in the Monument Valley area, depending on how it's going other places nearby too. Was thinking that deflating the tires on dirt/sandy roads would help, so got a compressor. Tested it out, found the power cord needs to be about 6 feet longer.
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1968 Long Bed 2016 Honda Civic Coupe EX-T ticket magnet |
09-01-2021, 05:56 AM | #4 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
I have both. A pair of gator clips on a 5' run and a female at the end. This allows for connecting the solar panel for charging while the battery negative terminal is off. It can also add length to an extension [about 8'] with the matched plug ends. Since you have a Longbed, you will need a longer run. Measure from the dash plug, around the seat, out the door or window and out to your farthest tire, and add a couple more feet for comfort. Tie some old shoelaces to one end of each cord, and coil them and tie them when not in use. Tuck the coiled line in a big [gallon] baggie.Keep that with your tools, or in the glovebox, or under the seat. Always put it back in the same place. Truck stops should have the hardware since Radio Shack is gone. Look in the CB section. BTW, What size tires are you running? And if you're confident in your present engine, keep it.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 09-01-2021 at 06:19 AM. |
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09-18-2021, 01:21 AM | #5 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
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30 x 9.50 R15, why? Wouldn't start the other day. Neighbor who is a retired ADOT mechanic diagnosed the HEI ignition module was dead. Replaced, still didn't fire up. Decided to just replace the whole distributor, plugs and wires. There was corrosion in the terminals, and rotor brass things were sort of fried looking. Despite being mechanically challenged, did 95% of it. My friend dialed it in and timed it. Had a heck of a time getting the different length wires sorted out, ended up with one too short, Auto Zone traded for a longer one. Neighbor looked at the old spark plugs, said it's not burning oil. Since I can't really afford putting a modern engine in, will play this game long as possible.
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09-18-2021, 08:08 PM | #6 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I was an avionics tech in the military, so I don't mind crimping and soldering wires. I buy the ''Universal'' plug wire sets, and cut the plug wires to length.
Also my Stepside uses an L6. I buy the V8 sets, and after every 3 wire changes, I have enough leftovers for a free fourth set. L6 runs are pretty short. The vendors all sell a stock type cigarette lighter and socket assembly. About $15 or $20. Easy install and damn handy. I don't smoke, but GPS, cellphone chargers and [in the winter with no heater in the GMC,] I have a Hot Seat. Plug-in vibrating back massager/heating pad. Voltage spikes from an External Voltage Regulator can flash burn an HEI Module. I moved up to an Internally regulated alternator on the 350 in my GMC Jimmy. Bought a brand new one, stock for a slightly later vintage Blazer. Working great. What viscosity oil are you running? I start with 30 weight with a newly rebuilt engine, then work up to SAE 40 at about 150,000, and finally 50 weight, before I pull it out and rebuild. I'll have to back track on the tire size question. Can't remember what that was about.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 09-18-2021 at 08:16 PM. |
10-02-2021, 05:38 PM | #7 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Thanks for checking on me, again.
I had a new "one wire" alternator installed, so the voltage regulator bundle of snakes has been removed. I am not having working front turn signals, the back ones work, and the dash turn signal lights aren't flashing. They did work. So where do I start to diagnose the problem? I looked at the switch at the steering wheel, cleaned up and added lithium grease so it moves better. I am now looking for a color wiring diagram. I found a free one when I had the '69, that went with the truck when I sold it. Thread for reference: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968 Source to buy a diagram, which should be better clarity than downloading and printing one: https://classiccarwiring.com/product...wiring-diagram Another thread, but must have to be signed up to see their diagram: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968 This ought to be a good source, but I don't see headlights/turn signals?: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185856 Another thread: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968 Here is the front of the diagram! This also is about the temperature gauge acting weird which is happening now for me. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
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10-03-2021, 01:58 AM | #8 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
New Turn Signal Switches run about $50 from the vendors. I've found swapping in a fresh one solves a lot of gripes. Gremlins can chew on a lot of little details in 53 years. I gave up on electrical temp gauges. The new ones have a different Resistance value. A mechanic said some mumbojumbo about using a couple [1/4W?] resistors in parallel, but, as an electrician, I knew that one would be marginally longer than the other, and create a bias. Putting a Mechanical Temperature gauge in its place is not difficult. Advantages are: 1] Better, more accurate temp indication 2] Works even when power is off. 3] Packrats can't chew thru the wires. 4] Lasts a long time. 5] Looks cool. Gauges shown are -- Auto Gage Tach on Steering Column. Stewart-Warner Water Temp, Moon Manifold Vacuum, AutoMeter Oil Ppessure.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 10-03-2021 at 04:39 AM. |
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10-04-2021, 12:48 AM | #9 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
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1968 C10 327, 3 speed manual, LWB stock height daily driver. 1968 C20 327, 4 speed manual, LWB stock height custom camper with heavy duty leaf springs rear, 50th anniversary edition. Hoping to press into daily drive status soon. |
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10-04-2021, 12:59 PM | #10 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I put mechanical gages in my 72 one for water temp the trans temp and volt meter . Trans temp because I tow with it pic is before I hooked up the volt meter. This was towing my 68 to the Carlisle truck show .
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10-06-2021, 02:16 AM | #11 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Cool Altimeter. That's a real one. I used to Remove and Replace those on jets in the military.
You can dial it in by finding out the local barometric pressure from your local airport, and setting that to your actual altitude. In the US, Barometric Pressure is calibrated in Inches of Mercury. 29.92'' [Hg] is standard barometric pressure at Sea Level. If you set it at 29.92'' you will read your ''Altitude'' above Sea Level. What is Prescott's elevation?
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
10-08-2021, 02:50 AM | #12 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
I should quit goofing off. A friend who can help me found this thread about cig lighter wiring. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...2ikxV_AS8AeWkE
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10-18-2021, 02:31 PM | #13 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
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10-18-2021, 03:29 PM | #14 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Nice.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
10-22-2021, 02:56 AM | #15 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
I took many shots, have whittled down to my favorites.
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10-22-2021, 03:12 AM | #16 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Not many windmills in Tucson.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
10-28-2021, 04:27 PM | #17 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Got only 3 nights of camping done. The last night was woke at 2:30AM by a gust of sand, then sprinkle of rain which intensified. Drove 674 miles, consumed $191.39 worth of gas and 1 3/4 quart of oil. Blue Cloud ran like a champ. Thinking of starting a new OT: Camp trip in Valley Of The Gods. Have a ton of cool pictures.
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10-28-2021, 05:29 PM | #18 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Great shot, Kurt.
Looks like a black dog curled up behind the tailgate. Don't see a tent. Where is this place? Your gas tab seems excessive. Are you getting the full Ten Miles Per Gallon these trucks were designed for? I usually strap a couple 5 Gallon jerrycans in the stepwells of my Stepside when ''expeditioning.'' [Perhaps the only advantage of the Stepside bodystyle.] Also I rack up VIP Points at Fry's and fill up empty jerry cans. This month I'll get 70 cents off up to 35 gallons. I store the cans with 2 oz of Stabil and they don't go flat under 2 years.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
10-30-2021, 12:12 AM | #19 | |
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I'm going to start a new OT, got many pictures edited.
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11-01-2021, 01:58 AM | #20 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
The windmill is "tilting at you". Great pictures of another epic trip. Glad to see that you are planning to keep the little old 307. Original motors are cool and usually each engine has some advantages you can work with. Of course, some more than others. But it's running well and you can replace gaskets and seals as needed.
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11-04-2021, 02:18 AM | #21 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Quote:
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11-04-2021, 10:47 PM | #22 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Hey Kurt. I passed Pima County emissions. My mechanic only had to readjust the carb.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
11-07-2021, 04:38 PM | #23 | |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
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Drove Blue Cloud to Mesa yesterday, because I didn't trust that my Honda would quit on me after the computer instrument panel said there is a charging problem, and I found this: Truck ran perfectly, just a bit dicey dueling with those who have to go 90 and zig zag in front of me. So out of my comfort zone here:
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11-07-2021, 11:29 PM | #24 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Pima County has less stringent requirements than Maricopa. Also, since my truck is manual, they won't touch it. I'm told to set up the rear wheels on the rollers, they put probes in the exhaust pipes, a chock under the left front tire, and tell me to drive 30 MPH in 3rd.
A JiffyLube employee ruined a B&M megashifter on the TH350 in my '67 K/10 Suburban. Not knowing how to lift the anti-reverse bar with 2 fingers, he muscled his way with it. I had to replace it. Since then I change my own oil. I ran the Orange Stepside to PHX for a gig last month. I try to keep the speed under 70 since a 53 year old truck has a lot of rattles and vibrations, and I'm not comfortable in high speed traffic either. I mostly stay in the right lane, and watch my rear view mirrors. A GPS helps with more accurate groundspeed info than the bouncing speedo needle, and also gives me my location. I mount it on top of the pulled-out ashtray and taped to the radio delete plate. In PHX it's a necessity for getting around in traffic. Phoenix drivers are agressive. Not as much as LA drivers were 40 - 50 years ago. LA drivers have mellowed since then, due to their overwhelming traffic density. Do you have packrats? They love the soy-based insulation on Japanese wiring. They used to attack the wiring on my '92 Subaru. Honda sells a ''Rodent Tape''. It's just like standard 1/2'' vinyl 3M electrical tape, but it's green and laced with capsicum. And costs about $70 a roll. Also has a cartoon mouse inside a red circle with a red line thru it every few inches. Also with generations of varmints sampling the local cucina with salsas, tacos and burritos, the local packrats might prefer it for it's sabor picante. A small bottle of McIlhenny's might work as well, until the next carwash.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 11-08-2021 at 12:01 AM. |
11-09-2021, 11:08 AM | #25 |
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB
Honda is fixed. Between the oil change and other major service, this cost more than a car payment, glad it was paid off several months ago. Stuck a few moth balls under the hood, and on the ground.
BTW: the altimeter is not working, so that's getting removed. Since I got a load of firewood, parked across the street. Had a killer sunrise! This is a second home for the neighbor, view from the back porch.
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1968 Long Bed 2016 Honda Civic Coupe EX-T ticket magnet |
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