1952 Chevy Vette Farm Truck Build

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by T bone

Thanks for the reply. First things first...Damm, what a great build. You are the man!
I'm planning to use a 'Vette IRS on my project so I'm watch your progress and method with interest. Here at a few questions from a newbie.
What were the primary factors for choosing the 44 over the 36? How much horsepower are you expecting?
I assume the reason for the large frame mod is to allow for the lowered stance you are targeting...what do you think would be the lowest ride height possible without this frame notch?
Thanks

The reason I went with the D44 is it's ability to handle more power than the D36. That info came from tons of reading on the net. Not only power but it comes at a much higher price tag. Around $500 for a D36 and around $1500 for a D44. The D36 came in the automatic vettes and D44 came in the standard trans vettes.

When the truck gets on the road, I should be in the 280 HP range but that may change and the D44 will handle everything I will ever put in front of it.

I'm not sure on the ride height if I left the frame stock. My new notches are about 4" higher than stock.

[BC Toy chest]

Awesome build gr8 story keep the photos coming.

[HUSSEY]

Nice build, you've got some mad skills!

[FarmerSid]

Mad skills! Ha! Good one. Thanks though.

I played around with the rear end placement last night and no matter what I did, it looked like I had to redo my C notches. So that's what I started to do. Tick's me off that I have to redo them but I know in the end it will give me more clearance for suspension movement and ride height. I will be working on that today.

I also got the Prothane Total Kit bushing kit so that's another project to get installed before final placement of the IRS. It's probably smart to make sure everything is nice and tight with no slop.

[99 to Life]

you have great attention to detail will you accept that??!!!! a cool trick with the rubber bushings is to drill a bunch of tiny holes through them, then punch, press or take a big bolt and nut method to extract it out. I agree, no point in skimping anything that is gonna need done at some point in life. Might as well replace everything if the budget allows.

[FarmerSid]

Thanks for the tip 99. Ya, figured the front and rear suspensions need to be tight so when they are centered in the wheel openings on installation, they will still be centered later on when the sheet metal is installed.

I think I got a good deal on the bushing kit. I saw them at various places for around $199 US. I found the at Amazon.ca for $99 Canadian with free two day shipping. It sounded too good to be true but ordered them anyway. When they got here, the box was the same pictured for $199 US.

Out to the barn now to get some work done. Will post some pics later.

[FarmerSid]

Another long day but C notches are done, frame square and IFS boxing plates are in.

I'm done! Now for a nice stiff drink!

I will post some pictures tomorrow.

[T bone]

Sorry about the c-notch re-work. Tell me more about the problem you found. Also, how do you determine how wide to make the notch.

[FarmerSid]

When I set the frame at around my desired ride height, the rear tow bar tie rod ends were only a couple inches from the rear of the notch. I didn't want to take a chance and have them hit the frame when driving. I added 4" to the width of the notches and 4" out of the frame behind the notches to keep the stock frame length of 173 1/8".

How I determined the size of the first set of notches was to set the stock frame on the vette IRS and measured as best as I could how much higher I needed the notches to be in order to get 3"-4" of clearance for suspension travel while having 5"-6" of clearance under the running boards. I then traced the stock frame notch on card board, drew the additional height needed, cut it out and traced it onto 3/16' plate. Then went to work and made the new notches. The bottom of the new notch ended up being where the top of the stock notch was.

What I should have done is cut out only one of the four notch plates and tacked it to the frame and double checked the width. I was reluctant to cut the stock notch out at that point and was hoping that they would be correct. I was wrong. It was close but I wanted the frame to be lower and have lots of clearance for suspension travel. Now that I look back at how I did things, next time will be much faster as now I won't be afraid to just start cutting and fitting. I was when I started as it was my first time doing this. Lesson learned.

I have since found out that the toe bar assembly center section is no longer available from GM so I may build my own and use heim joints. Then I can eliminate the outer tie rods and mount the joints under the mounting point and gain more clearance. That's the plan anyway's.

The stance I'm after is the Art Morrison shop truck and Icon Thriftmaser truck. Art Morrison has dimensions of his sport chassis on his website and am using that as reference for the stance I'm after.

Let me get some more work done and then I will post up some pictures.

[ricott]

I posted a picture of what I think will help you fix your rear toe setup on your truck. The picture is the rear end setup of my 58 corvette frame conversion. You can see it uses a bracket to lower the tie rod end and it uses Heim joints on the strut rods. I'm sure you can fabricate it, but you could purchase the setup from Corvette Correction in Seguine, Texas. Billy Dawson is the owner and he is a real stand-up guy. I love you progress, and good luck.
Ricky
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...ps01c3c7a2.jpg

[FarmerSid]

Thanks ricott! That info is exactly what I was thinking about.

A few teaser pics from a few days ago.








What do you all think? There's a 1" rake on the running boards as it sits.

A bit of another issue but will explain that tomorrow when have more time.

Cheers!

[FarmerSid]

one more for now

[99 to Life]

looking good, the IFS looks really nice. so you purposely added the rake or no?

[Advanced Design]

Yeah, that looks really good!

[oldman3]

Sweet...Jim

[FarmerSid]

Got some shop time last night while the boys were out on the 4 wheelers. Got the cut outs for the rack done using 3 1/2" pipe.

My ride height may have now changed a bit. A bit higher now. Still looks OK but will not know till I get some more work done. Wish I would have started the IFS before the IRS. Will explain more on this after I get more work done today.

[Blue1952]

Looking very nice, any pics of the c notch?

[FarmerSid]

Thanks guy's! Appreciate the comments. Don't anyone be afraid to jump in and point out things I'm doing wrong or offer suggestions.

99, yes I purposely added the rake. I like the look of the rear end up a little. This decision had to be made before the front cross member goes in as it has to be level vertically and horizontally.

Blue1952, here is a few pics of the new notch and the new notch redone. Notice that it is a bit wider now.

[FarmerSid]

So yesterday I spent all day working on the front cross member install. Took so much longer that I expected. Isn't it always the way! I finished welding up the boxing plates as I wouldn't be able to finish welding and smoothing after the cross member is in.

Made and installed the notches for the steering rack. Have 1" of frame left above them. Going to run a few braces from the cross member up to the core support cross member to add some strength.

Had to remove a few gussets off of the cross member in order to get the steering rack in. Glad I test fitted it before the cross member was welded in. Would have never been able to get it in if I hadn't checked. It will go in now but it is tight. Hold your tongue the right way. I had to also modify the drivers side rack mount to make installing the rack easier. These little things add up to hours and hours.

Now the cross member comes out to finish welding up the rack mount brackets. Then back in for the last time and tacked in. Position the UCA mounts and tack them on. Make sure everything measures and levels up and then weld it solid.

Now for a few pictures.

[FarmerSid]

a few more......

[FarmerSid]

and more....












The LCA drilled for the lower shock mount. I only had to drill one hole as the one closest to the ball joint was there from the factory.




We'll see what I get done today.

[99 to Life]

very nice work. Love seeing it come together. Glad your doing all the work so I can reference from!!!!! Is that the C4 rack? are there others that work with that?

so kind of a stupid question. are those stock spindles? do they even make drop spindles for that set up? I guess the vette would sit low in comparison to a truck so perhaps drops aren't even necessary? Kind of like putting an AD on a malibu frame, it just sets perfect.

[Blue1952]

Nice work!

[Advanced Design]

Very nice Sid! Is the crossmember from Progressive?....apologies I don't recall.

[FarmerSid]

99, yes that is a C4 rack and stock spindles. I think the rack mounts I made are C4 only. You would have to made other mounts to use another rack. That rack came with the IFS when I bought it.

Thanks Blue1952!

AD, I made the cross member.

Big news now. The cross member is in! Upper control arm mounts are on and things are assembled. I'm so pumped! Big step for me!

I will post pictures later as I have hockey now.

Man I'm pumped!!!