Project: Custom 71 4x4 hotrod

[silver7]

Thanks man. That powder coated subway black is amazing in the sunlight. Should show my rear real nice going down the road.

I wish I could have powder coated my frame the same way as well but plan B (base-clear) was the way to go. As with my welding, I am learning to how to wet sand on my frame. Should help me out when I finally get around to my body work.

That box sitting there is nearly $1K in suspension/bumper parts from LMC truck waiting on me to hurry up...

[silver7]

Made a template from the previous owner's hack-job bolt holes and was able to figure out the dimensions for the original rear bumper bracket bolt holes. I welded/filled them in and am in the process of drilling new holes. It was a lot of work but it was the right thing to do.

I also finished fabricating and hand sanding my 12 bolt then dropped it off at Advanced Powder Coating in Elon, NC for powder coating. Moved the spring perches, added dual shock and traction bar brackets and welded the axle tubes to the housing for more strength.

[silver7]

After a lot of time in the vise and hydraulic press I finally got the rest of my chassis parts apart and taken to the sandblaster today: front knuckles, tie rod, front 4x4 universal joint bracket, traction bar brackets, and leaf springs. Hopefully Nick and I can get these back, epoxy primered and painted with the frame and traction bars this weekend.

Taking the universal joints and leaf springs apart was an experience so I'll post some pics and more info on that later.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by silver7

After a lot of time in the vise and hydraulic press I finally got the rest of my chassis parts apart and taken to the sandblaster today: front knuckles, tie rod, front 4x4 universal joint bracket, traction bar brackets, and leaf springs. Hopefully Nick and I can get these back, epoxy primered and painted with the frame and traction bars this weekend.

Taking the universal joints and leaf springs apart was an experience so I'll post some pics and more info on that later.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=150

Hey Silver or anybody else out there, per the picture in this post: If you need to replace ball joints do you need to pull this arm off the drivers side steering knuckle first? any special tools are needed? BFH and a chisel? Thanks!

[mjensen]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=150

Hey Silver or anybody else out there, per the picture in this post: If you need to replace ball joints do you need to pull this arm off the drivers side steering knuckle first? any special tools are needed? BFH and a chisel? Thanks!

To replace the ball joints, this arm does not need to come off. If you ever need to take it off, there is an awesome trick to use a socket placed over those cone washers and smack it with a bfh a few times. The shock will cause the cone washers to pop right out of the seat. I had to remove mine because I needed to replace it with a raised one for my lift.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by mjensen

To replace the ball joints, this arm does not need to come off. If you ever need to take it off, there is an awesome trick to use a socket placed over those cone washers and smack it with a bfh a few times. The shock will cause the cone washers to pop right out of the seat. I had to remove mine because I needed to replace it with a raised one for my lift.

I cant thank you enough for that, i totally forgot about the cone washers, i would have been fighting that one, my lift was installed about '94 i think. I bought a drag link puller today in case i need it, but now i may not. I thought about it, being as i want to paint everything and i figure it will be easier to use my stand up press over the ball joint press i decided i want to remove it anyway.

[silver7]

When I bought new 6" Superlift springs from Summit they said they were powdercoated. When they arrived the paint was flaking off everywhere. I was very disappointed because I knew I would have to take them apart and paint them. Nick told me how some companies say powdercoat but it is a cheap uncatalyzed version that is no better than using a rattle can. I had never taken leaf springs apart before so I read about a lot of different techniques before I gave it a shot. The hardest part was bending the multiple brackets wrapped around the front leaf springs. Some had recommended using a torch but I did not have one so a hammer, chisel, pry bar and some brute force did the trick. After that, removing the bolts in a big vise then slowly releasing the vise pressure did the trick. To ensure I get them back together the same way I stamped each leaf 'F1', 'F2', 'R1', or 'R2' in the same location as the were pulled apart. My other concern is closing the brackets after they are painted without scratching them. I'm thinking I can push them back together in a vice or hydraulic press but I'll have to use a softer material against the brackets when I do.

[msgross]

Those are pretty heavy duty clamps... I have a thinner set that I picked up from a spring shop... Were there teflon pads between the springs?

[silver7]

No teflon pads - only a small amount of oil. But I was thinking about adding some to keep my paint from rubbing off. Any recommendations where to get them from?

[silver7]

Just like the leaf springs I had never taken universal joints apart either so I learned a lot. Decided to use the vice with a small and large lug technique to push the caps out and since it was a four wheel drive it took a while to finish the job. But it worked pretty well even though I broke my 'on sale, fancy, new, large vise' from Harbour Freight in the process due to a crank bolt mount casting failure. Luckily I was able to get it replaced and get er done.

I plan to wire wheel my drive shafts instead of sand blasting for obvious reasons.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice progress! This will definitely be a very nicely detailed truck when you are done!

[silver7]

Ok, so the RBP black rims are no longer an option but now I am considering the BMF Novakanes or the KMC XD Diesel rims. They both will look mean and nasty with my Nitto Mud Grapplers and a suede satin black paint job. If I go that route I will paint my bumpers and grill a high gloss black. Then maybe some high gloss black flames to finish it off. . .

If I don't go suede black I'll go with lighter colors such as metallic silver or a classic malibu blue to set off the black wheels.

[msgross]

I didn't put the pads back in either... my spring shop didn't mandate them so I figured that they weren't that big of a deal...

[silver7]

I did have some rubber pads which were under the rectangular clips which slid under the clamps. Is this where your pads were located?

[msgross]

The original springs had small this pads in the center, sandwiched with the center pin and the leafs... Some guys use them, some don't...

[silver7]

I saw them today when I picked them up from the sandblaster. Weren't quite as visible before.

[silver7]

I planned on primering my sandblasted parts and exposed areas on my frame this weekend but discovered my forgotten 'difficult' U joint was still on my very greasy drive shaft and some of my parts still had rust in some deep pitting even after sand blasting. A cut-off wheel, simple green, 3M scratch pad and a small amount of rust converter took care of that but I missed the weekend opportunity. After I wire wheel the drive shafts and my traction bars I hope to be able to primer one night this week.

[silver7]

Mike - I found the teflon pads you were referring to when my leaves came back from the sandblaster. They were there before I just did not notice them.

[Dieselwrencher]

Man, I know your pain trying to get the frame all cleaned up and ready to paint or primer. It is a pita. No one really realizes how much work it takes until they start doing one for them selves. Keep up the nice work.

[Conroe trucker]

Satin black with gloss bumpers will look very good.
You might surf around, it was a fairly common paint scheme with choppers that were a little above the others in finish about 3-4 years ago.

I thought about painting my bike frame satin and the tank and fenders gloss, but the House of Kolors Rolls Royce black was almost sexual.........

Nice thing about satin, you do not have to have perfect body work.
Bad thing about satin, all parts must be shot at the same time at the same orientation, almost like candy.

So the doors, if not on the truck, should be hung about the same height so they will be sprayed at the same angle as the bed sides, etc.
It will show spray pattern somewhat.

Also, you can not buff it out!
You screw up and you sand it down and start over, if you want it right, and you have not cut any corners yet..........

Will look really good with that detailed gloss frame, very nice combination.
You almost have to go wih stainless bolts and Raptor now.

Might think about painted rims to match the frame..........

[silver7]

The comments from you guys validate to me I am doing this thing right even though it is taking 3 times as long to get it done. Took me a couple of hours to wire wheel my traction bars last night. I am not looking forward to the two drive shafts needing the same. My dad is visiting next week - maybe I can wait and talk him into doing it for me. . .

The satin suede black is a sweet idea but I'm either going to have to learn how to paint really well or talk my buddy Nick into helping. All of the problems with painting low gloss is scaring him away from the job. Can't say I blame him. I asked him about doing a candy and he said hell no to that too. I still have time but what ever route I go I'm sticking with the high gloss black rims.

KMC XD Diesel or BMF Novakanes . . .now that is a tough call.

[Conroe trucker]

You can shoot it, just know that it is not some Maico job.

Practice on the tailgate first, then the bed floor, then the bed interior, then the hood, then the cab top, then the interior, and then you should be ready.
Be prepared, get all your stuff lined out then go to town.

Some guys shoot it B/C and put a flattening adder in the clear coat.
I have also seen it done with a single stage of acrylic enamel in semi gloss or egg shell.

If you do a B/C then you can sand the clear away if you get trash or runs and shoot again.

[Dieselwrencher]

We just sprayed some clear over my lesonal to give it a deeper look. It turned out pretty sweet!

[silver7]

After 3 hours on the wire wheel getting my traction bars and drive shafts ready to go, everything has been stripped and is ready for a rub of wax and grease remover, then primer. My stomach looks like a pin cushion with all of the holes from the knotted wire wheel metal barbs which were impaled into my gut. I guess I need a leather apron or something. Right on diesel - but pits!

pain in the stomach

[silver7]

Good idea conroe. If I do this it is going to take some serious practice. If I do the satin I am going to go the black base or primer with a satin clear route. I've read about a lot of different techniques but this seems like it would be best for me.