1972 Blazer CST Frame off Project in NC

[ochre1971]

Looking great! Keep the pics coming.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Speaking of firewall and applying a dynamat product - has anyone that done it have any tips? Any areas I should avoid or advice? I wasn't sure if I did everything that all parts would go back in ok - like the brake pedal assembly, e brake assembly, etc.[/QUOTE]


Trucks looking great!

I used a similar product "Second Skin". Here are the install steps they have on their website.

Make sure to clean the metal with denatured alcohol. If you use a degreaser you will need to clean the film left behind off with soapy water and then wipe down the surface with denatured alcohol for best adhesion.

Trace out the area you are applying the product to with cardboard or paper and then transfer that to the butyl Damplifier sheets to cut out a perfectly fitting piece (or freehand it).

Place the piece in the desired location with wax paper still on the butyl sheet to make sure it will fit, as the butyl is very sticky and once the wax paper is removed it will adhere to surfaces for a permanent bond.

Now, remove the wax paper and place the butyl sheet down upon the surface, working your way from one side to the other or from the center out to the edges.

Once placed down, take your wooden hand roller and push the butyl sheet to the metal to form a nice bond over the entire sheet. If you have a concave, groove, and/or ridges you want to work the product down and up those valleys with the wooden roller or the back side of the wooden roller for the smaller dips.

[UGAK5]

Thanks Mike - and let me say how happy I am that you are about 30 days ahead of me.......As usual, I will be stealing from your build!

Those instructions sure help - - but another concern I have is where to place the dynamat stuff on the firewall, meaning if I cover everything and then cut out for the openings, will all the brackets and parts fit back in properly? My sound and heat dampner is called Membrane and is two butyl layers combined about 5 mm thick, so I could see if making the ebrake assembly not fit, for example.

I want to coverage as much as possible, and I am sure other guys have done this as I have seen their build pics, but not sure if they had regrets later. And this stuff is impossible to get off!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I applied the stuff all the way up to the top of the firewall. For the pedals and steering column, I just went around them.

I tried to use a replacement firewall pad and, I don't know if it was just the one I got, (maybe there's more than one manufacturer?) but it was POS so it went in the trash

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I applied the stuff all the way up to the top of the firewall. For the pedals and steering column, I just went around them.

Yeah, I was aiming for putting it all over the firewall, then putting everything back in. Sounds like you put some things in, then did the second skin.

Ive seen lots of pics on the forum where guys did was I was thinking - but never hear if they had issues - guess I'll find out!

[1972CST]

Great progress and attention to detail is second to none!

I noticed you used aftermarket doors on your build, do you mind sharing what brand or where you purchased them and how the fitment turned out?

I am battling between reworking my rusted out original doors and sourcing replacement doors.

Thanks for your help and keep up the good work, its definitely motivation for me!

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by 1972CST

Great progress and attention to detail is second to none!

I noticed you used aftermarket doors on your build, do you mind sharing what brand or where you purchased them and how the fitment turned out?

I am battling between reworking my rusted out original doors and sourcing replacement doors.

Thanks for your help and keep up the good work, its definitely motivation for me!

Thanks man!

I struggled with that too. I did my research and went to the GM website and found that they have authorized repop vendors, and AMD is one of those. They are down in Buford GA, so on a trip to Atlanta last summer, I stopped by and picked them up. Now, I bought them from Classic Muscle Metal in Cleveland GA - they are an authorized AMD installation shop, so they passed on a discount to me - but I picked them up direct at AMDs warehouse. In boxes, 2 fit easily under the tonneau of my F250.

Be careful if you do that. AMD has EVERYTHING you'd every want and you can easily empty your bank account there!

On to fitment. I'd say they fit very well, and my body guy had no significant complaints. That said, they are hung, swing well, have better gaps than when the Blazer was new, but I haven't put the windows and hardware back on yet.

Unless you can do rust repair and sheet metal work on your own, or you are going for 100% original, you'll spend more in repairs than going with AMD repops.

My 2 cents.

[1972CST]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Thanks man!

I struggled with that too. I did my research and went to the GM website and found that they have authorized repop vendors, and AMD is one of those. They are down in Buford GA, so on a trip to Atlanta last summer, I stopped by and picked them up. Now, I bought them from Classic Muscle Metal in Cleveland GA - they are an authorized AMD installation shop, so they passed on a discount to me - but I picked them up direct at AMDs warehouse. In boxes, 2 fit easily under the tonneau of my F250.

Be careful if you do that. AMD has EVERYTHING you'd every want and you can easily empty your bank account there!

On to fitment. I'd say they fit very well, and my body guy had no significant complaints. That said, they are hung, swing well, have better gaps than when the Blazer was new, but I haven't put the windows and hardware back on yet.

Unless you can do rust repair and sheet metal work on your own, or you are going for 100% original, you'll spend more in repairs than going with AMD repops.

My 2 cents.

Thanks for the info, very helpful!!

[UGAK5]

Ok all knowing and powerful web forum - I need some help.

I'm attempting to install the window sash onto the bottom of the new glass side/door windows. I bought new sashes from LMC, new glass from GMCPaul's. As usual, I don't have the original to go by. I've decided to use the 3M window-weld to hold the glass in, rather than the rubber inserts I bought from LMC. I just don't like them after seeing them in person.

Finally, here's the question:

Does anyone have measurements or pics of the sash mounted on the glass?

I have found plenty of threads/posts on the steps to do the install, but not that show the position of the sash on the glass. The sash is shorter than the glass, so do I center it? Push it all the way to the front? Or to the back?

My OCD is in overdrive on this!

Thanks for the help guys.

[DeadheadNM]

Mine are buried in the rafters so to speak but I'm happy to dig if no one can post a quicker pic.

[UGAK5]

You are the man Pete! Thank you!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

IIRC the factory assembly manual says .76-.79" from the outside edge. I had to redo my windows cause I set the window short of this measurement. The lower channel was getting hung up 3/4 of the way.

I ended up having a glass shop set the glass for me and I just marked where it needed to sit. Both windows ran me $75. For me, it was worth it just to have them do it.

I think they used 3M window weld and there is a primer they use with it as well.. I added up the cost of buying a caulking gun, window weld and the primer and it was close to 50 bucks.

Did you ever figure out your splash shields? It took me a solid 4-5 hours to get those darn things to line up correctly. Talk about PITA

[UGAK5]

Thanks Mike - - I never could find the windows in the Assembly Guide. I am surprised there's that little tolerance! Looking at Pete's pics, they look centered from the ends. Would hate to weld them in and get it wrong.....new windows and new sashes would have to be bought. UGh.

Splash shields = HUGE PITA, but yes, they are on.

Chris

[DeadheadNM]

You bet!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Thanks Mike - - I never could find the windows in the Assembly Guide. I am surprised there's that little tolerance! Looking at Pete's pics, they look centered from the ends. Would hate to weld them in and get it wrong.....new windows and new sashes would have to be bought. UGh.

Splash shields = HUGE PITA, but yes, they are on.

Chris

Sorry for the confusion. I couldn't remember for sure if it said .76 or .79. That's why I said .76-.79.. The manual didn't specify a range of tolerance. I measured my at exactly 3/4" and worked out perfectly. I took the page out of the book so I could easily have it handy and must of miss placed it or I'd post a photo of here for you.

For some reason, I think they used window weld, but I could be wrong. The first time I had them set the glass, I measured it wrong and was off by 1/4" Luckily, I was able to get the windows out of the sashes without any damage.. Only took about 4 hours, a heat gun, and 100 razor blades..

Good luck with the doors... Not sure if you've come across this thread but if you follow this sequence, the entire door assembly goes in smooth and easy.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=732400

[UGAK5]

Long time since my last update. Been super busy at work, and busy on the more tedious elements of the Blazer build. So, heres an update - and thanks as always to the board for all the advice and help.

I bought my wiring harness from M&H and LOVE it. The schematic/diagram that came with it, the quality of the wires/fuse panel, and tech support are great. So I tackled the rear lights. Took some grinding and adjusting to get them to fit - you'll recall I am using repop rear quarters, so they took a little persuading. Another learning was that there are numerous holes required for the taillight trim ring, but I found a set of billet (stupid expensive) ones that fit into the same holes for the lenses, so I went with those and love the look.

[UGAK5]

Next was the fuel filler neck. The ones on these 72s is not repoped, and mine had a hole in it that the PO fixed with bondo.......yeah, bondo. So, I got it welded at a radiator shop, it was super rusty so I soaked it in evaporust, then had it soaked in muriatic acid at the radiator shop, THEN sent it to Fort Worth to be electroless nickel plated. Stock was zinc, but nickel is better and easier.
Thanks to board for that vendor recommendation as well - no one in the Charlotte area would do a small job like that. And Arrow Plating was awesome - great folks to work with! I also had to make all my own gaskets for the emissions pipe and the filler neck, so I used fel-pro sheets of cork/rubber for those.

[UGAK5]

Then I started on the AC. My Blazer is a factory AC truck, but I decided to go with the Classic Auto Air system from the guys in Texas. It uses Spal fans, all modern components and includes everything you need, down to the screws. When I bought my truck, it had the underdash ducts/heater box, but they were cracked, it had the underhood evaporator (also cracked), but no condenser and no compressor - so this 'kit' was more economical, better quality and better performance. It also included electronic controls and new flexible ducts. It took quite a bit of customization, cutting, fitting, refitting, etc, but Gary at Classic was great to call and talk through ideas with. It should make 45 degree air.

[UGAK5]

So you probably saw that I have been insulating the firewall. I am using 'Membrane' which is a product from Classic Auto Air and its dual layers of butyl rubber and foil. One layer for sound, and one for heat. That rubber stuff is STICKY and like a booger.....you get it stuck to EVERYTHING. I have ruined 2 shirts and countless hours cleaning tools/drill bits.

After the AC, it was on to the rest of the dash. I went with an old school AM radio, but will not hook it up to speakers. I will use a bluetooth amp and just connect my iphone to it that way - no head unit needed! The radio is wired so it will light up in the dash. I love the old school look.

I also installed the wiper arm assembly, wiper motor and washer hoses.

[UGAK5]

On to the intermediate steering shaft, steering column and brake booster.

I had a cool old guy that was a gm mechanic since 1971 and current hot rod builder rebuild my steering column and shaft. Turned out great. Also, when doing the brake booster, I used DOT4 Brembo fluid and a power bleeder (I never have anyone around to help me). That was my first experience with a power bleeder, and it was great, but messy. It leaked around the master cylinder and leaked when i disconnected it. No leaks at all in the lines though!

[UGAK5]

Last update is the door.

I used some less expensive sound deadener from Amazon for the inside. I bought new sashes and glass (didn't have the originals) and used 3M windoweld and the associated primer. Lubed everything with white lithium. I had raw doors, so I had to do locks, handles, drill holes for mirrors (that was scary in fresh paint), install new tracks, felt, side windows - everything. Lots of try this, now try that.

[UGAK5]

So today I am finishing up all the under dash wiring. My harness from M&H has turned out great. They did leave out a grommet that I needed, but it arrived Friday so I can have a module that allows the wiring for the dual electric fans to pass through the firewall need the speedo cable. After that, I just need to connect the power wire to the radio, the tach harness to the cluster, then install the gauges. That'll be next weekend.

After that, I am customizing a Lokar shifter linkage and a few more odds and ends under the hood, then preparing to fire the engine before new years. I know a guy with a bench dyno system, so I will go to his shop to fire it and break it in. Then bring it back home and get the front clip on it, finish out the mechanical, work on interior and be ready for Spring 2018!

Thats the plan at least.....

[IronCanine]

Really clean work. Nice progress. I like the bluetooth amp solution. You're getting close.

[Tom Vogel]

[QUOTE=UGAK5;8085859]Last update is the door.
drill holes for mirrors (that was scary in fresh paint)QUOTE]

Boy... been there, done that. lol

[jaros44sr]

Very impressive work, thanks for sharing! Truck looks awesome

did you buy new windshield wiper wheel boxes?

Whose tail light bezel did you use?