06-11-2009, 12:01 PM | #151 |
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Yes sir, Chop saws have a tendency to walk, so I had to grind some too....that is why there are different markings on them...I would test fit 2 of them then grind away what I need to until they all fit well..
we have a big gravity feed band saw, but it takes longer to set up so I figured I would just use the chop saw.....if I were going to make a few I would set up the band saw and cut a bunch....
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06-11-2009, 12:01 PM | #152 |
Hey Y'all!!
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http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=2
Maybe you should try one of these instead and let us know how well it works... "You've heard of the Y pipe.. the X pipe.. the H pipe.. nothing can touch the O pipe!!! It provides 100% back pressure feedback on ALL engines!! Torque increase and kuneutson valve float brings in much lower revs so you don't hurt your motor! Not CARB Legal. Please specify standard or polished finish. Product shown is dual input O-Pipe with standard finish."
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Just hopin' I live long enough to finish something!!! Last edited by TimE; 06-11-2009 at 12:02 PM. Reason: added info |
06-11-2009, 12:04 PM | #153 |
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I have tried those...they make an amazing amount of torque, but I couldn't keep my high performance muffler bearings in with all that power...so until the muffler bearing technology improves I will stick with the X
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06-11-2009, 12:09 PM | #154 |
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has anyone seen this...it is a D pipe from flowmaster
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FL...2/?image=large looks pretty easy to make...no angles to cut
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CHEVY ONLY Last edited by joe231; 06-11-2009 at 12:10 PM. |
06-11-2009, 05:11 PM | #155 | |
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Quote:
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06-11-2009, 06:16 PM | #156 | |
One day...
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Quote:
What will really help you is the "Dead end" pipe, you see it caps the flow directly and save the hassle of fixing engines or trannys, it makes your car/truck very quite and you dont even have to change the oil!!! EVER Last edited by scotts62; 06-11-2009 at 06:16 PM. |
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06-11-2009, 06:25 PM | #157 |
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That and if you wanted to save on weight you could go with those plastic engines too.
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06-14-2009, 07:09 PM | #158 |
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Nice job, Joe!! So now Ive read the whole thing.....what wheels did you use and have you gotten the exhaust installed? I have 40's on the pick-up and they are loud and resonant.
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64 CHEVY PICK-UP > http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...otrash+re-hash 64 CARRYALL >http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1964+suburban 66 LB >http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=427852 STRENGTH/DETERMINATION/MERCILESS/FOREVER .......posted via stationary device |
06-14-2009, 07:21 PM | #159 |
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I have 40's on mine and it's not too bad. They are all they way out by where the spare tire is, so that may be why. If they are dumped before the axle they may be pretty loud.
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06-14-2009, 08:22 PM | #160 |
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Thanks Jeff...I have been running th rally wheels and 235/75/15's from the '66 so far....I want to get some black 20" Coys for it though...
I haven't gotten the exhaust done yet...was kinda planning on doing it after the engine swap....although I can't wait to hear it John, do you know what size tube your exhaust is? is it a true dual?
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06-14-2009, 11:02 PM | #161 |
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I bolted up some stuff to see what it looks like, pay no attention to the rusty bolts, I will clean them up and paint them before final assembly...
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06-14-2009, 11:07 PM | #162 |
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got my X-pipe welded after fighting with the welder, it wasn't pretty, but it was welded, so I cleaned up the welds a bit and painted it.
also cleaned and painted my new to me flows, my wife thinks I'm crazy for doing it....she said "who is going to be looking under your truck?" I said "there is a forum full of people like me, and I look under people's trucks"
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06-15-2009, 08:17 AM | #163 |
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Yeah she sounds like my wife. They just don't quite understand our sickness. I'm like that too. One thing that bothers me is on my truck there is one pipe ran above the tranny crossmember, and the other ran under. From what I can tell that is a stock type of thing to do, but it really drives me nuts!
I think the pipe on mine is 2". Down the road I will probably go 2.5". Are you running yours all the way out, or dumping it? |
06-15-2009, 09:20 AM | #164 |
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I know what you mean about the trans crossmember....it can be ran with both ove, just have to find a good exhaust guy....
I haven't decided if I'm gonna dump them before the axle or after....
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06-15-2009, 09:45 AM | #165 |
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I like both ways. I cut the tips off of mine so at least they are gone, but still trying to decide which way I want to go. I know the dump before will be louder, which on mine since it's not a daily driver will be ok. On yours though driving it everyday may be different. Well until you rap the throttle. Then it's like what complaints, I have no complaints. That's what I tell my wife when we have a moment of practicality about the Mustang. I just rev it up, and say what problem I see no problem!
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06-23-2009, 09:13 AM | #166 |
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I was charging my A/C last night and noticed the vacuum diagram shows a vacuum switch for the lock up converter...I got to looking around and think I may have found the switch, can anyone help me ID it?
here is a crappy cell pic of what I believe it to be oh and by the way...I got some nice ice cold A/C
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06-23-2009, 11:21 AM | #167 |
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I have that same switch on my firewall as well. The vacuum line is off of it, and I wondered what it went to. Mine is above the transmission dipstick though.
Last edited by JohnC; 06-23-2009 at 11:22 AM. |
06-23-2009, 12:41 PM | #168 |
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That is what it is. 2 wires and a vacume line. I was going to hook one up for the 700.
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06-23-2009, 02:15 PM | #169 |
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hmmmmm. I'll have to do some work on mine, and see what it does. Where does the vacuum line go to?
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06-24-2009, 12:47 PM | #170 |
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manifold vacuum, a loss of vacuum opens the switch and unlocks the converter.
so basically the only time the converter will lock is under light throttle. it is used in conjunction with a normally closed set of contacts on the brake light switch. hit the throttle and the converter unlocks to help with building speed...hit the brakes and the converter unlocks so you can stop with out killing the engine look under your hood for the color vacuum diagram, should see the switch on there..... on another note....I believe I have decided to convert my front end to a '73-'76 front end. I am wondering what pieces and parts I will need to swap, other than the obvious....do I need to swap the core support and the lower valance panel?
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06-24-2009, 01:05 PM | #171 |
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Cool! I havent been on in a while, looks good!
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06-24-2009, 01:55 PM | #172 |
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thanks brother-man, homie-G!
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06-24-2009, 03:25 PM | #173 |
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I wouldn't think you would have to change core supports. I figured the 80's were close enough that it was just a grill change, and headlight bucket change. I think it will look awesome! Are you ordering new parts, or going junkyard hunting?
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06-24-2009, 04:33 PM | #174 |
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I will probably hit up the pull-a-part, they typically have some 73-76 trucks.....certifit has the headlight doors for @ $14 a piece and the hoods for just over $100.
I know I have to change the support that mounts to the core support to fit the '73 grill.....I also know I should probably use search and see what I can find....
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06-24-2009, 04:37 PM | #175 |
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I thought the hoods were the same. Shows what I know. I didn't think anything really changed til 81.
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