2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments

[CaptRMW]

Originally Posted by ctandc

I'd be asking for a refund or taking it back to get aligned when they decide to have some shims.

I will have a conversation with Goodyear corporate office then take it to another Goodyear for the do-over.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

I have results! Got done with my front suspension rebuild. All new links and bushings and the works. Just need a new steering box now to complete. Basicly I have about 7.5* caster with moving the front control arms forward one inch about -1* camber and 1/8ths total toe out and honestly I can stick the front end good enough in a turn to bottom out haha so I'm thinking some bilsteins and 3/4 ton springs will fix that then the other issue is with my leaf spring rear I can really feel the need for a panhard and rear swaybar
other issue is I still wear down the outside of the tire from cornering to hard. This could be the tires rolling on the corner or the lean that's coming from soft springs and worn shocks not to mention my one ton swaybar is still on rubber bushings. Oh well more tuning to come but I love it so far!

[DM Garage]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

other issue is I still wear down the outside of the tire from cornering to hard. This could be the tires rolling on the corner or the lean that's coming from soft springs and worn shocks not to mention my one ton swaybar is still on rubber bushings. Oh well more tuning to come but I love it so far!

With 7.5* of caster you're going to have a lot of camber gain when turning which is probably why your seeing the outside shoulder wear. If you take it to a shop that has a premium Hunter aligner they can put the machine in "Tuner Specs" which will give you a lot more numbers to work with. Just some food for thought!

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by DM Garage

With 7.5* of caster you're going to have a lot of camber gain when turning which is probably why your seeing the outside shoulder wear. If you take it to a shop that has a premium Hunter aligner they can put the machine in "Tuner Specs" which will give you a lot more numbers to work with. Just some food for thought!

I believe added caster wears the inside of the tiredue to increseased beg camber gain

[jlsanborn]

Awesome thread! I read about a third of robnolimit's "how to make it handle" today and will keep reading that to the end. I'm just getting to the part where he's gonna build a Chevy!

So far, here's what I THINK I have in store.....

I'm going to flip the trailing arm mounts
2" blocks and 4" springs in the rear
Adjustable panhard rod - considering fabbing my own and would like to re-locate to make clearance for exhaust over the axle housing. - Thoughts?
I already have 2-1/2" drop spindles
I'm after 4" total drop in the front. I cut one wrap of my stockers and think that was too much. Should I get 1-1/2" springs?
I'll do the 3/4" LCA relocate mod and don't expect any spring fit issues?

Please explain the "remove all the shims first so you can get the most out of the angles" part.

Thanks again! I've learned a TON today!

[BMERDOC]

Hey! Thanks for checking out the thread. Flipping the mounts is great, I'd like to see a 5" spring and a 1" block if you still plan to run 15" wheels. Your stock springs may have had some sag in them which caused an excessive drop. I'm not sure how many 1.5" springs are available. A 2" MAY be a better option and a 4.5"/6" drop looks nice. I have heard of other guys cutting down the bigger truck (C20) springs for a higher spring rate. Everyone that has relocated the lower control didn't seem to have a spring fit issue.

What I meant when I said remove all the shims was that when I removed all the shims on a stock truck and aligned it the angles were still not excessive or in the range of what I was looking for. By relocating the lower arm you'd only have to add shims to equalize caster and camber from side to side.

[RICKSRAT]

Nick great thread. I been following for awhile and got mine aligned today and thought i'd share results with new upper arms and springs.
Caster 4.2deg L/R
Camber. - 0.1 L/R
Toe. -0.8 L -0.7R

Specs on front end are CPP tubular upper arms, stock btm arms , CPP modular spindles , Coil spring speciaties 455# .660 dia. 14 1/2" length springs.
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[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by RICKSRAT

Nick great thread. I been following for awhile and got mine aligned today and thought i'd share results with new upper arms and springs.
Caster 4.2deg L/R
Camber. - 0.1 L/R
Toe. -0.8 L -0.7R

Specs on front end are CPP tubular upper arms, stock btm arms , CPP modular spindles , Coil spring speciaties 455# .660 dia. 14 1/2" length springs.

Good job! Glad you have enjoyed it. Sorry I haven't added to the thread in a while. I haven't had anything to align and experiment with. I have an 85 Square that I'll be replacing the steering assembly tie rod to tie rod and I'll post my results when I align it. He's not much into it but is open to making it better so we are gonna do the best with what we've got.

[jlsanborn]

I've been moving ahead, just SLOW. I did the trailing arm flip and the LCA 3/4" shift. I've ordered 2" and 5" springs, ball joints, cab/core support mounts, the No Limit panhard rod kit and rear shock relocate kit. It'll still be a while (seems like could be forever) before I get it in for an alignment, but once I've got it assembled I'll post up some pics. Thanks again for all the FREE info!!!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

I've been moving ahead, just SLOW. I did the trailing arm flip and the LCA 3/4" shift. I've ordered 2" and 5" springs, ball joints, cab/core support mounts, the No Limit panhard rod kit and rear shock relocate kit. It'll still be a while (seems like could be forever) before I get it in for an alignment, but once I've got it assembled I'll post up some pics. Thanks again for all the FREE info!!!

You should start a build thread for your truck so we can see the progress and results of the mods.

[moneyeater]

This is a little confusing to me!
I have to get an alignment on my ´81 C 10 longbed and tried to filter out the right specs from this thread but i´m out! to much info!!!
My problem is to convert the data to usable numbers for a german alignment shop but i think the degrees should work here! It should be in metric measurements!
Can somebody please give me the numbers that get the best performance out of the suspension!?
I have 2.5" spindles and 2" springs from Belltech and 15x10 wheels with 255/60 tires up front! The rearend is flipped over the leafspring and the 15x10 wheels have 295/50 tires! The previous front tires were bald on the outside shoulder after 8000 miles and now i bought new ones that i´d like to run longer!
I hope the experts here can help me because i dont even have specs for a factory like alignment!
Any help will be greatly apreciated!
Volker

[BMERDOC]

All of my specs are in degrees and minutes. How do you need the specs set up? I'm on vacation so i only have my phone. I just did an alignment on an 85 longbed. I'll be home Thursday and will simplify things for you then.
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[moneyeater]

Hello BMERDOC,

thanks for the reply!
My appointment is Thursday at 14.30 German time wich is about 6 hours ahead of your time!
I copied the data from post #68 and hope the alignment shop man can get this right!
I´ll talk to him about what i want and see if it is possible!
Thank you for your help and for the writeup of your knowledge!
Volker

[BMERDOC]

Looks like I was able to get back in time! I hope you see this before you go to the shop. This is an '85 I did last week. Please note that is a picture of the "before adjustment" results. I prefer the right side caster because it is more positive and would like to see the camber in the negative range. Sooo, add as much camber as you can positive caster as you can without adding positive camber (at least keep positive cmber to a minimum). Consider doing the lower control arm modification so that you can gain more positive caster.

[moneyeater]

BMERDOC your the man!!!!!!
Thank you so much for helping me out!
I start of to the shop right now and try to make them do it the way you recommend!
I´ll be right back on the thread when i come back!
Volker

[moneyeater]

Hello BMERDOC,
i´m back from the alignmentshop and so far i´m happy with what they did to my baby although it is not that massive as you recommended!
Here´s a pic of the data!
I hope you can translate it to understand!
Please give me a feedback of what you think!
Sturz = Camber
Nachlauf = Caster
Spur = Toe

[jlsanborn]

Some updates but still miles from an alignment. The LCA shaft mod along with the 2" springs and aftermarket disk brake drop-spindles raised a few issues that I've not completely got sorted out yet. To begin with, the increased caster angle created interference with the upper control arm and the spindle casting. No big thang, just ground a bit off the control arm and casting. Next the lower control arm crashed at the cross member. No big thang, more grinder. Now I'm at the steering stop. The big hunk on the spindle casting that was supposed to ram into the bump-stop/steering-stop bracket thingy now rams into the lower control arm. I started grinding on the casting for clearance but soon realized I'd have to about grind the thing down to like a needle to make it clear. I know the bump stop will be too tall as well, so I'm considering lopping both the big hunk and the bump-stop/steering-stop bracket thingy off and fabbing my own setup. Anyone run into this and come out clean? Would love to hear / see what you did!
I'm also looking for the best way to re-plumb the front brake lines for disk. The OG tab where the hard line transitions to rubber now whacks the upper control arm. I'm sure the hose would be stupid looking anyway if I connected it there. What's the best way out of this?
Thanks for keeping this thread rolling, it's good stuff!

[BMERDOC]

Moneyeayter, looks like they got you on a good start. Especially on the toe and left caster. Consider doing the LCA mod to gain more caster.

jlsanborn, looks like you've had to move some stuff around! On the brake line issue I have seen pics in Delmo's build threads where it looks like he has bent front lines and uses AN bulkhead connectors on the frame to attach his brake hoses. They looked like a good way to do it to me. I think he did it on Nacho.

[kopeck]

Never mind...wrong year.

Sorry

[BMERDOC]

kopeck,
My email notification was waay different than what your post says now. What happened?

[kopeck]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

kopeck,
My email notification was waay different than what your post says now. What happened?

I was off topic, my truck's a '79.

For what ever reason it didn't register until after I posted.

Sorry.

K

[Dano69c10]

Want to do the lca mod;
so is it 1" or 3/4?"

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by Dano69c10

Want to do the lca mod;
so is it 1" or 3/4?"

Chevyrestoguy did the best thread to date on the caster mod. Here again is the linky...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501241

[Dano69c10]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Chevyrestoguy did the best thread to date on the caster mod. Here again is the linky...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501241

Thanx for the link. I could not find it. I thought it was by Rob or Bmerdoc.
Dano

[BMERDOC]

You weren't off topic. This thread is in the Suspension forum. You can ask anything you want.