What can be said about the 4-speed New Process NV833 overdrive manual transmission?

[Flathead Smith]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so decided to cut out the stick out of my shifter bottom end assembly for two reasons

1. the threads for the ball were broken off on it anyways

2. I did not like the hockey welded in install, even if it was factory

I'm pretty sure that weld on the shifter was not factory, and was added later.

I am fixing to install a cast iron version of one of the A833 transmission in my truck and there is no weld on either one of the two shifters I have. I was originally thinking the shifter was slipped in and then squeezed shut by a pressing operation, but now after seeing the information you posted, I'm thinking it is removable.

________________________________

Another thing to consider if you need a driveshaft. This A833 transmission uses the same 27 spline yoke as a Turbo 350/700R4 (it also uses the same tail-shaft bushing, which is easy to replace... My transmission shop installed mine for $3.00, which included the bushing). I haven't checked this out yet, but there is a chance that the transmission, when bolted to the clutch housing, might have the same length as either one of these two transmissions. If it does, we'll know what truck to look for at the nearest Pick&Pull.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Flathead Smith

I'm pretty sure that weld on the shifter was not factory, and was added later.

I am fixing to install a cast iron version of one of the A833 transmission in my truck and there is no weld on either one of the two shifters I have. I was originally thinking the shifter was slipped in and then squeezed shut by a pressing operation, but now after seeing the information you posted, I'm thinking it is removable.

Unless I'm missing your point I think I already addressed this.

K

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Correct. The bottom of the shift handle snaps into the shifter base with no tools, for ease of assembly. There is a notch on the stick that corresponds to the retention tang on the clip.

Incidentally, the guy that installed these shifters on the assembly line, as well as the M20 shifters, worked for me when I ran the Fender Set area. He also installed the cab running lights and the SPID label.


K

[Gregski]

this is where I noticed something was not as expected, my shifter (our shifters) do not have the two bolt holes to hold the stick in the bottom end assembly, that's when I went Def Con 4 on the InterWebs to do some research, and here's what I've learned

HURST makes at least two different types of bottom ends, the Bolt-On style, which is what most of us are familiar with and the ones we got, which are called Slip-In style

found this pretty cool installation page for them, but looking at my stick I can't wrap my mind around what keeps these sticks from falling out

[Gregski]

and here is a comparison of the Bolt-On style HURST shifter bottom end assembly (the one with the two holes) compared to the one like ours aka the Slip-In (no bolt holes)

images from HURST Shifters Online website

[Gregski]

these are the rubber isolators and metal clips required to hold our sticks in place in the Slip-In style

again since GM decided to weld in our sticks I am not sure if they had the proper holes or notches in their bases to actually utilize these clips, maybe they didn't and the weld in was a work around

[Gregski]

I think there are actually special Slip-In sticks that are to be used in the Slip-In bottom end assemblies, but the only one I could find on HURST Shifters Online website was this one for a 1970 Mercury Cyclone Ford Torino

Hurst 4 Speed Slip-In Shifter Handle, 1970 Mercury Cyclone Ford Torino

note the single hole bottom end design

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I think there are actually special Slip-In sticks that are to be used in the Slip-In bottom end assemblies, but the only one I could find on HURST Shifters Online website was this one for a 1970 Mercury Cyclone Ford Torino

Hurst 4 Speed Slip-In Shifter Handle, 1970 Mercury Cyclone Ford Torino

note the single hole bottom end design

Correct. The bottom of the shift handle snaps into the shifter base with no tools, for ease of assembly. There is a notch on the stick that corresponds to the retention tang on the clip.

Incidentally, the guy that installed these shifters on the assembly line, as well as the M20 shifters, worked for me when I ran the Fender Set area. He also installed the cab running lights and the SPID label.

My handle does not say "Hurst" on it, which is probably why you don't find them when you search (most sellers probably don't know it is a Hurst stick).


K

[Gregski]

Well Gentlemen the Greg has some Great News!!!

today after work I swung by a fantastic transmission shop Manual Transmission Warehouse (2 miles from my house, I kid you not)

and Larry hooked me up, what a great man! I went in there with my case and said Larry how in the world is this pin supposed to hold this reverse lock out bracket if it don't go all the way through the side cover

and Larry looked down at the floor where we was standin' and picked up the same lid from another transmission just like ours, not a Morpar 833 but one fro GM and said "Well hewk lets take a look"... then he asked "what part number is yours?"

his said C-13550-2

mine just said C-13550 (no 2 at the end)

clearly his was a second revision part, more importantly on his the pin went all the way though the side cover, on mine it did not

[Gregski]

unfortunately that side cover belonged to another customer, but Larry disappeared for a few minutes and reappeared with another side cover, it looked grungy but it too had the pin going all the way through, he said "FIFTY BUCKS"

I said "FOURTY"

He said "FOURTY FIVE"

I said "FOURTY PALEAZE"

He said "DEAL"

he was happy, and I was thrilled!!!

the mystery of the stupid design GM pin was solved!!!

[Gregski]

see how on mine (the cleaner cover) there is no pin sticking out on the bottom below the top pin

and now see how on the corrected / fixed / retrofitted cover (the dirtier one) there is a pin with a snip on washer clipping it through the side cover and holding it in place, the way God intended

[Gregski]

and of course once you know the part number you can Google it and we find that a good cover (with the pin sticking out) is for sale on eBay right now for $135 bucks plus another $25 for shipping!!! yaykes The Greg done good gettin' his for $40

[walkerb]

Well damn.......... win for Greg but not for us with the hole less covers........

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by walkerb

Well damn.......... win for Greg but not for us with the hole less covers........

maybe not, maybe the scissor pin from the Muncie 4 Speed will work, here's one listed on eBay for $10 bucks, here's what it looks like, sorry don't know the diameter or length

and here's what their side cover looks like

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

maybe not, maybe the scissor pin from the Muncie 4 Speed will work, here's one listed on eBay for $10 bucks, here's what it looks like, sorry don't know the diameter or length

and here's what their side cover looks like

Some oil hardening tool steel and a small lathe like my 7x14 little green monster would come in handy here. There's really not much to that pin. The little Chicom lathes are too expensive now for what they are. Mine was just under $300 in 2000 and after some cleanup and upgrades like the 14" bed it's been a good little machine. Little is the operative word... but pins and bushings fall right into its' tiny work envelope. I can stuff it under the bench after a spraying the unpainted parts with Rustlick 631 on a shelf with an oiled canvas cover. The 16x42 South Bend ain't so portable and I don't like making small pieces on it even using a 3" chuck or collets

[Gregski]

better yet, the Mopar A833 Overdrive version of this transmission is way more popular than our GM one and guess what it uses the exact same side cover part number and all, C-13550-2 (well the new and improved side cover that is, with the pin hole, like we want)

here's a pic

[hatzie]

Is there any reason not to just bore the hole the rest of the way through the older cover on a milling machine or good tight drillpress?

[walkerb]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Is there any reason not to just bore the hole the rest of the way through the older cover on a milling machine or good tight drillpress?

Your right, probably the easiest way to go.....

[Ziklag]

I have one of these transmissions for sale if anyone is interested. 1986 Chevy half ton.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Ziklag

I have one of these transmissions for sale if anyone is interested. 1986 Chevy half ton.

hydraulic or mechanical clutch?

[1968vetL-71]

It should be a hydraulic if it's an 86. I also have a set up complete hydraulic out of an 87 for sale. It's the harder to find 4 x 4 version though. It's even cast-iron.

[Ziklag]

Hydraulic. It also will come with the Hurst shifter and all things in the picture.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Ziklag

Hydraulic. It also will come with the Hurst shifter and all things in the picture.

very nice, how about the transmission crossmember, I ask because I have yet to see the one for that specific application

[Blue666(2)]

Originally Posted by Ziklag

Hydraulic. It also will come with the Hurst shifter and all things in the picture.

Sir, Can you provide a picture of the slave cylinder & the bracket that mounts the slave to the bell housing?

The hydraulic parts all seem to be available on Rock Auto except the bracket.

Thanks.

[trixter99]

I saw one of these transmissions in a 4wd diesel back in the eighties.

[Gregski]

some numbers for you after my swap

70 MPH at 2000 RPM

75 MPH at 2250 RPM

I am loving this new 833 overdrive transmission, now I have 4 useable gears not just 3