Dropmember in a 69 C10

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by layedoutnoma

if u want to run the c4 stuff with 15's u may have an issue if you use all the spindles and brakes from th c4.. just a guess but something to look into

C4's came w/both 12 & 13" brake assemblies depending on the year model. The 12" brakes w/15's should work w/no problems.

[1987 Shortwide]

After some thought, I suppose a guy could always run a 2" spacer to get the track width back to about stock. By spacer I mean the billet machined ones that have separate mounting points for where the spacer bolts to the hub, and where the wheel bolts to the spacer, not some cheesy pile of crap that requires super long studs.

[watahyahknow]

even those spacers you mention are hard on the wheelbearings and steering

[67Fleet]

Nathan, thank you for taking the time to snap the pics for me. The front wheels are not as far inboard as I had expected them to be. Looks good!

Congrats on the newborn!!! That's one hefty baby!

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by 1987 Shortwide

Does the C4 suspension make for a wider track at all than the AirRide A-arms?

If I were to go with this setup (I love it by the way), I would more than likely end up running coilover front suspension instead of bags. Reguardless, I will still be running a 15" front wheel (15X5) and I know that these trucks already have a bit of an issue with the front wheels being inward an awful lot (mine is an 87).

I find interest in this setup mainly because I am a simplicity freak, and if I could eliminate that huge crossmember, stock A-arms, and steering box, for all of this clean cut and simple stuff, it would really clean up my under hood appearance.

I'd guess that it'd also perform alot better at high speed than stock stuff too, and as of right now I'll be looking at 130+ in the 1/4 mile on stock junk.

This is what I'm faced with currently...

Steve-
The overall width of the C4 (hub face to hub face w/rotors installed) is 63". It is a bit wider than the Dropmember with stock or Air Ride arms.
About the 15's... I didn't know they made 15" wheels anymore !!!! I am pretty confident the wheels need to be 16" or larger diameter. I will check into it and let you know. Keep in mind the bolt pattern on the C4 is 5X4.75" the truck bolt pattern is 5X5".
As for spacing the wheels to get the desired track width, it does have some effects on the steering scrub radius and will also add some extra stress to the hub assembly (2" spacers wouldn't add an extreme amount, but it will add some). I am assuming you already have the wheels you want to use, or else you one could always buy some with the proper backspacing.

[1987 Shortwide]

Well, I've already got 15" telestars, but if I could scrounge up the dough for the setup I could probably shoot for some larger ones (centerline now makes them up to 20's.) I wouldn't be totally worried about the extra stress, as this will get very few miles put on it (nice weather/weekend toy) so it won't see daily driving abuse. My main goal is to go fast in a straight line, so I like to stick to 15's up front but I'd also like to get a nice set of 18/20's for street use, so I'll just have to match up the combinations before I'm really ready to start ordering things.

[N2TRUX]

Steve,
Please help me understand what 15" wheels has to do with going fast in a straight line?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Steve,
Please help me understand what 15" wheels has to do with going fast in a straight line?

Weight transfer.

[1987 Shortwide]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Steve,
Please help me understand what 15" wheels has to do with going fast in a straight line?

It's all in perspective really.... and what you refer to as "fast"

As you know the main intention of my truck is to perform well on the drag strip, even if it is still going to be streetable. On the initial setup I am looking for mid 11's @ 125-130 mph, but in a season or two I plan on stepping it up a notch. I don't really want to be pushing 7"+ wide billet wheels down the track at 140+ mph. Tires that wide have a tendency to drive themselves wherever they please. Ideally, I'd like to have the capability to run no wider than a 5" rim on the front for the race track, and if need be run a 18" wheel on the street.

You see what I'm saying?

[XXL]

Originally Posted by 1987 Shortwide

You see what I'm saying?

Not really.

[67Fleet]

Aren't the front wheels on most top fuel dragsters larger than 15"?

[1987 Shortwide]

I'd like to see some 17 or 18 X 3-4" wheels that are still strong AND that look decent. I see no need to argue with a bunch of guys about how to build MY vehicle, especially when it is not value added argument. All you're trying to tell me is that you see no difference in 15X4" front wheels and 18X8" front wheels on a drag racing application.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Steve,
Please help me understand what 15" wheels has to do with going fast in a straight line?

I don't believe it's the diameter Steve is concerned with, but the WIDTH. Tracking is the main reason all the drag cars run the skinny fronts... when the front tires touch the strip at those speeds the least amount of tire patch that contacts the strip means the least amount of steering response. On the strip that can be a good thing.

[watahyahknow]

and dont forget skinier tires have less roll resistance and make the frontend lighter .
i believe most dragslicks are made for 15 inchers they need that large sidewall for the slingshot : the tire squats and start small and wide giving maximum traction and tork at the start and grows bigger and thinner down thew track to give more speed at top end
(would be supriced if any red blooded american wouldnt know this fact from his favourite motor sport )
i agree that when its youre truck its youre own decision about how to built it .

[1987 Shortwide]

Thanks for clarifying my view. I should have put it in general terms, not just my specific application.

This brings up another question Porterbuilt, not sure if it's been asked, have you checked out the weight difference? I'd love to see how much I'd lose going from the stock X-member, steering box, A-arms, and such, to the dropmember, rack, and either the strong arms or full aluminum vette stuff.

Granted, I'm driving a truck with the aerodynamics of a barn door, but losing some weight on the very front would sure be cool!

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by 1987 Shortwide

After some thought, I suppose a guy could always run a 2" spacer to get the track width back to about stock. By spacer I mean the billet machined ones that have separate mounting points for where the spacer bolts to the hub, and where the wheel bolts to the spacer, not some cheesy pile of crap that requires super long studs.

Steve-
The rotor face to rotor face width on the regular Dropmember is 60". The width of the Dropmember C4 is 62" from rotor face to rotor face. Pull your wheels make some measurements and do some math and you will know exactly where the wheel and tire will sit.

As for the weight... the regular Dropmember with all hardware was 115lbs. that is without rack, control arms, shocks, spindles and brakes. The DropmemberC4 weighed in at 90lbs. that too is without rack, control arms, coil-over or shockwave, spindles and brakes. The C4 suspension components are much lighter than the stock or aftermarket tubular truck components... but I have not yet weighed em to find out the difference.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

As for the weight... the regular Dropmember with all hardware was 115lbs. that is without rack, control arms, shocks, spindles and brakes. The DropmemberC4 weighed in at 90lbs.

It's been a couple of years since I got my stock xmember worked over, but I shipped it via USPS, which has a 70# limit... so I know it's less than that... and probably quite a lot. That's xmember only. No arms, spindles, etc.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 1987 Shortwide

I'd like to see some 17 or 18 X 3-4" wheels that are still strong AND that look decent. I see no need to argue with a bunch of guys about how to build MY vehicle, especially when it is not value added argument. All you're trying to tell me is that you see no difference in 15X4" front wheels and 18X8" front wheels on a drag racing application.

Mickey Thompson is making narrow 18" front wheels to compliment their new Sportsman Drag Radials (also availible in 18" & 20" sizes). They look similar to Bogarts only w/skinnier spokes.

[1987 Shortwide]

This is good input SCOTI, I think I'll take a looksy.

Thanks.

[PBFAB.COM]

Here's some pics of steering linkage and then some of the floor/cab mods that will be necessary if you want to put the rear on the ground with a 29" diameter tire.

[PBFAB.COM]

more

[PBFAB.COM]

And one of the kit with a trans crossmember.

[lvscott]

Hey Nathan I have a few questions for you. 1. What kind of headers are you using and do they have any ground clearance problems? I wanted to go with Doug's headers but I think they may be too long. Do any of your other customers use Doug's with their dropmember?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by lvscott

Hey Nathan I have a few questions for you. 1. What kind of headers are you using and do they have any ground clearance problems? I wanted to go with Doug's headers but I think they may be too long. Do any of your other customers use Doug's with their dropmember?

The headers seen above are the "shorty" headers for chevelles. I am pretty sure the same "shorty" style headers for the Nova and Camaro are almost identical. I believe they are also referred to as 3/4 length? There are no ground clearance problems. The full length headers will be too long. Other customers running a SBC and Dropmember have used the block hugger style, or the shorty style. The ones on the truck in the pics are a cheapy set from the local performance parts store for mock-up purposes.

[67Fleet]

lvscott, I just bought some Sanderson block hugger shorty headers from them and they're sweet! I haven't gotten a chance to get them mounted up yet, but I checked all the dimensions and there won't be any interference from anything. They are top quality, but you're gonna pay for them. I got the ceramic coated ones and they were spendy.