72 K20 build thread, need good name

[Rust Buster]

Well finally some decent progress.
I rebuilt the side cowl vents and drains. I built them to take 300 years to ever rust through again...

Completed the cab undercarriage metal work and laid down two coats of Southern Polyurethanes epoxy primer with my TP Tools turbine system. The stuff goes on great and that HVLP turbine system is an awesome alternative to compressed air and you don't have to worry at all about moisture.
Next is two coats of Durabak and then I can finish up the rest of the cab.

I picked up the 67 front clip that gtomechanic had for sale and an extra hood with a GMC core support. Jim and Jeff are great guys and they have an absolute treasure chest of parts, I'm extremely jealous.

[arkracing]

Don't know how I missed this build. Looks very cool! I just read through all of it.

Where did you get the stock replacement springs? I see LMC carries them, but they are super expensive.

Why did you run weld the cab supports to the floor solid like that? instead of doing a factory type spot weld. If you have the truck long enough for them ever to be replaced again, I would imagine that it will be quite a job to cut them back off

How do you like the Southern Poly Epoxy Primer? Does anybody else you know use it or have experience with it? I was contemplating buying some, but it isn't too popular like "DP90"

Looks like it will be an awesome 4x4 when done.

[Rust Buster]

Thanks for the compliments. The epoxy primer is awesome, and when it is cured it actually sands really well. I did a lot of research before I bought it, and haven't ran across anyone who says anything bad about it.

Welding the bracing on the undercarriage was for two reasons... 1. to seal up any crevices so there were minimal areas for rust to collect, and two just because I could and I was having a rare moment of welding zen where I was laying done some really nice beads. I don't plan on ever replacing them, this truck is a lifer and I'm going to stay on top of the rust if it ever comes back.

The springs I got from a local spring shop. I think they are expensive no matter where you get them.
-Tim

[arkracing]

Originally Posted by Rust Buster

The springs I got from a local spring shop. I think they are expensive no matter where you get them.
-Tim

What did they cost you if you don't mind?

[Rust Buster]

I think they were about $150 a piece, but it's been a while, so I'm not 100% sure.

[msgross]

just looked up the specs on your tp paint system. Is that the 90? cost about 600 or so? Looks nice, if you decide to sell it when your build is done let me know, I might be getting around to primer by then! Also, what size welder are you running?

[Rust Buster]

I'm running a Millermatic 180, a great welder for my needs

[Rust Buster]

I let the Epoxy cure for a day and then brushed on the first coat of Durabak to make sure I got it in all the nooks and crannies. This is good stuff!! Just make sure you have a good respirator, it's definitely not good for the lungs. Then the next day I sprayed a good coat of Durabak to get a nice texture. I got some great coverage and I think with one more coat I will be happy and the undercarriage will be done.

This stuff is really thick, has the ground-up tires pieces in it and it sticks like nothing I've seen. If this truck ever rusts again under there, it won't be in my lifetime (knock on wood). Not the best pictures, but it's all I could get. I got the dark gray just to provide some contrast and it might allow me to spot any rust that starts quicker.

[watahyahknow]

hmmm that durabak stuff seems like a good alternative to do my truck with , i can aply it myself wish is nice cause we dont have a lot of people here who do spray in bedliner here in the netherlands europe , it seems cheap too and i can order it on the net ........ you used a spraygun , wat kind ? i can immagine you need a big nozzle on it to spray this stuff , they only discribe rolling the material on there website

[Rust Buster]

I used the economy undercoating gun from TPtools.com
It was about $30 and worked pretty well. It did clog a couple of times, but all it took was me clearing it by putting my finger over the nozzle and squeezing the trigger to flush it out, then it worked fine.

[Yukon Jack]

Been way too long since I visited this post - you've come a long way. Very nice craftsmanship!

[72blazer_mud_bogger]

where are you in va

[Rust Buster]

I'm in Chantilly

[RICHARD MORGAN]

Wow! What a great build. I'm actually right down the road from you in Ashburn. I'm also Active duty Military (Navy) and currently starting my own project, a 1972 Chevy 4x4.

Richard

[Rust Buster]

Hey Neighbor! This could be fun...
Do you work in the blue building as well?
I want to see some pictures of your truck!!

[Rust Buster]

With the undercoating done, I was able to put two coats of epoxy primer on the entire cab, inside and out. The SPI primers are great, and the epoxy sands really well.

With that done, I started putting down some Rage Gold filler. Great product but a little tough to sand. While that was drying, I bought and installed a GM Performance Parts wire loom with some MSD 8.5 mm plug wires. It's the first engine I've ever had with where the spark plug wires are organized! I am very happy that it worked well with the Doug Thorley headers.

While all that was happening the friendly UPS man brought some cool goodies including an Ididit tilt steering column, a used front swaybar and mounts from a 76 4x4, and a complete A/C system from Old Air Products.

The goal has been to get the interior primed and all set with filler so that I can paint it a dark grey. Now I know how many of you feel about cutting these dashes, so some of the photos may not be for the faint of heart. I'm putting an Alpine IVA-w505 head unit in the dash and it is a double din size. I respect the opinion about keeping these trucks as original as possible, but this truck is hardly original anymore, and I plan on keeping this forever and this is what I want. I do have something in mind that will pay homage to the original look that I haven't seen anywhere yet, so stay tuned.

So with that, the dash was cut...
I am still working the filler, and used Rage Extreme this time. Wow that stuff is great. Flows awesome and no pinholes! Also made the ignition module hole smaller because I am using a push-button ignition.

More pics as I go...

[Rust Buster]

Some more

[RICHARD MORGAN]

Great work neighbor! We need to get together this week and check out each others projects. Give me a call 571-277-0973


Richard

[RICHARD MORGAN]

Here’s some pics of my project in various stages:

http://s281.photobucket.com/albums/k...LUE/?start=all


It looks allot different now. I've installed Dakota digital gauges, a new front clip, cowl hood, etc...right now I’m in the process of installing a Painless wiring harness.


Richard

[84 400]

Great job! that truck is loads cleaner then any back here!!!

[Rust Buster]

84 400,
It was there for almost a year. I grew up in Princeton, MA, but got stationed down here with the Air Force. I definitely miss New England and hope to get back there soon. Just watched the Bruins lose game 7, and I'm now in a bad mood...
Thanks for the compliment though!!

[abebummy26]

where's the pics of your 71 k10?

[trx450duner]

I really like your accesories brackets on the motor what are those off of or where did you get them from? The chassis looks really good your doing a nice job.

[Rust Buster]

Thanks trx450duner! It's off a camaro, and I bought it on ebay, then pieced together the accessories for it. It was a good deal at $125

[RICHARD MORGAN]

Tim,

What are you using to cut your sheetmetal?

Richard