My 1954 Chevy PickUp-truck

[youngrodder]

Robin-

Nice progress. I'm running the same motor for my cowl vent. I like your location for the switch.

Stay warm
Marc

[snoopy0775]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Robin-

Nice progress. I'm running the same motor for my cowl vent. I like your location for the switch.

Stay warm
Marc

Hi Marc..
i have had another one at first...but this preordered motor has no stop position - runs 360° through. So i have ordered this one as second ;-)
Actually i have big problems to run the hoses to my evaporator. There´s to less space to run the hoses without bends to my bulkhead - so i´m searching for hardlines which fits to the bulkhead and i´m able to bent by my own.

Bye, Robin

[watahyahknow]

we used pretty bendy copperline on aircon systems in homes maiibe you can find the right size there

[OrrieG]

That photo of the switch in the ash tray is helpful, got me thinking. Thanks for posting, truck is looking good. Overhead console is a good idea too.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Nice progress man..Seems like everyones liking your outcome man

[watahyahknow]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

That photo of the switch in the ash tray is helpful, got me thinking. Thanks for posting, truck is looking good. Overhead console is a good idea too.

if he finished the console like they make those speakerboxes (by stretching fleese over it and drench it in resin ) he could put a set of speakers in there too

the flowing forms might be a little to modern for the old truck though

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by snoopy0775

Hi Marc..
i have had another one at first...but this preordered motor has no stop position - runs 360° through. So i have ordered this one as second ;-)
Actually i have big problems to run the hoses to my evaporator. There´s to less space to run the hoses without bends to my bulkhead - so i´m searching for hardlines which fits to the bulkhead and i´m able to bent by my own.

Bye, Robin

I switched all of my hard lines from the condenser to rubber lines and various fittings to fit my bulkhead. It is tight but possible. It took a little bit of work to figure out the correct fitting and hose routing.

you'll get it.

Marc

[snoopy0775]

Hi from Germany again.

Today i have some Chassis question:
As you know my Chassis has been damaged some time ago as it was rolling down the trailer. Because of that, the bad rearaxle position (sideway space to the frame-rails) and a few other points i´m actual thinking of to exchange it to a reproduced and new rolling Chassis.
At this time i´m think of a TCI-Chassis. Has anybody a complete Chassis from this company on your truck? Are these Chassis to advise or have you got other good Chassis building companies?
I have looked at fatman-chassis also but they are looking not so strong for my opinion...i don´t know - it´s difficult to make decisions only with catalog-pictures.

Thanks, Robin.

[watahyahknow]

i think you might get in trouble with the tüv when you exchange the chassis with sumtin no original
did you shown the old chassis to a damagerepairshop , they hae these hydraulic devices and big burners that can pull it back in shape in no time , prolly save you a bunde too

[snoopy0775]

Hi from Germany,

again i need help: Could anyone tell me where to place the cross sills from the bed on a 1954 build truck? Maybe someone here has a complete bed assembly instruction for me ;-)

Thanks,
Robin

[65Ch3v3LL3]

If you want a quality aftermarket chassis then look at the Roadster Shop. Their chassis are far and above the rest out there right now.

[snoopy0775]

Originally Posted by snoopy0775

Hi from Germany,

again i need help: Could anyone tell me where to place the cross sills from the bed on a 1954 build truck? Maybe someone here has a complete bed assembly instruction for me ;-)

Thanks,
Robin

...has nobody any ideas where to get the informations from?
I know that Mar-K have instructions for offer - but i don´t want to make a US-order only with a $10-item ;-)

Thanks

[watahyahknow]

do you have any more info?
i take it it has a wooden floor , arent the holes for the cross sills pre-drilled in the metal strips or arent there holes in the bedsides that could give you a clue
heres a pic of a bed you can see the bolds that allso hold the crosbraces / sills

[WyoAndy]

Snoopy0775, I am building a 54, with a 5.7TPI/700R4 combo with a C4 corvette suspension under it.

I have followed your build and think your work is great.

I can measure my chassis and tell you where the bed mounts are. I have Mar-K cross members and know their position on the chassis. If your chassis is original, you can look closely and see slight wear marks where the original bed was sometimes.

Please advise and I can get the measurements for you.

Andy

[snoopy0775]

Originally Posted by WyoAndy

Snoopy0775, I am building a 54, with a 5.7TPI/700R4 combo with a C4 corvette suspension under it.

..... If your chassis is original, you can look closely and see slight wear marks where the original bed was sometimes.......

Andy

Ok, i will look again. Badly the bodyshop has welded the holes in the frame so that i can´t locate the correct positions to screw the bed on. But i think the cross-sills have all got the same distance to the next one - am i right?
On Saturday i will go to the garage and try again to find out the correct points.

PS: a few pics from the our garage. ..Bye, Robin..

[Daze57]

Is there a way to get under the truck witha a flashlight to see if there is remnants of holes from the bottom ? you might be able to see where they once were .
just askin is all .

[watahyahknow]

you could inform at the police how they recover serial numbers that are filed away , you can find the welded holes in the same way , think they use some sort of metal filings and magnetism while vibrating the piece
another option might be one of those kits to check welds for cracks

i'm suprized there are no drawings or measurements to be found on the net , usually you can find some for like bodyshops that they use to straighten frames

[WyoAndy]

Robin,

I measured my chassis from the rear of the frame rails. Here are the dimensions:

1 3/16" (Rear Cross sill under Tailgate)
20 7/8"
47 1/16"
72 1/8"

If you have the cross sills the holes are punched so that the sill can be used in any of the three positions under the bed (one part fits all). Remember that there is a metal plate and a 1/4" rubber plate under the cross sill. No wood blocks are used on the 1954.
That is in inches (sorry my metric is a little rusty!)

I "boxed" my chassis so I will have to use extra long bolts and go all the way through the frame rail or figure out some other way.

Let me take some pictures and post them.

Andy

[WyoAndy]

Robin,

Here are some photos of the cross members and how I took the dimensions:
JPG 1 Shows the plate and cross member, once fitted, you tack weld the plate to the cross sill.
JPG 2 shows the plate on the chassis.
JPG 3 shows the plate and cross sill.
JPG 4 shows all the cross sills in position.
JPG 5 shows how I measured to the holes from the back edge of the frame.

Hope this helps!

Did you ever get your frame straightened?

Andy

[snoopy0775]

Hello,
i´ve measured up all the cross-sills and the backward frame section and realized that the area after the C-Notch is warped (don´t know if this is the correct word) downwards (round about 3/4")
I´m angry with the guys from the bodyshop...it seems that they don´t know their business or only want to make quickly money :-(

I´m again think on to order a completly new frame, but don´t know which company sells the "best one" for the amount of money you´ll have to pay. I´ve also seen that it will be difficult to get one like the 1954´s Chassis.

The other way will be customizing the bed supports but i don´t know if i get in trouble again (for example when i´m later mounting the running boards or rear bumper).

Oh man...this restoration is a endless (bad) story... i call it MONEY-DESTROYER

Have a nice time all together...Robin ;-)

[watahyahknow]

the frame sumtimes warpes when they weld it , you can bend it back in shape with some chains peices of metal tubing and a comealong if its bend to the side
you chain the chassis to a solid object then weld or clamp the tubing to the chassis mount the comalong to that and a solid object on the oposite side and start pulling little past where it needs to go then let the comealong back off and measure again
sumetimes you need a little heat to get the material to bend or stretch the right way


if it isnt a lot you can hide it by shimming the bed and the bumper , thats the only stuff afected by it if its all after the c notch
3/4 is abouuuut 1.5 to 2 cm...... yeah should be doable
if the frame is bend downward dril a bolt intoo a concrete floor chain the chassis to it behind the c notch and put an oiljack under the end of the frame and aply force untill youre either close or close enough , those frames can flex and bend every wish way you want it there not that tough

[nebdrummer]

I'd find a different body shop. Just the little shop I work at, it's amazing what we can pull back into shape. It can be done, but is your frame powder coated? If so, it will need to be coated again. Sme welding, grinding ect will have to be done in spots arou d the front portion of the frame to relieve stress or where pulling tabs may have to be welded on.

Speedway motors here in my hometown sell complete frame RAILS. I don't know if your cross bracing is bent or not, but then you could swap all that over to the new rails.

I've always had good luck with TCI products and I would assume their complete frames would be a good reflection of their nice products. Have you called them to see if they can hook you up on a smoking "overseas" kinda deal?!

Then we have the s-10 frame swap idea. Would be cheaper, but a lot more work for the level of build you are putting together.

One question, do you have more pictures of how the cowl vent motor is hooked up? I have an under dash brake booster and I made my original vent switch work, but now there's just a big arm hanging down.

I love the build and I hope you don't get burnt out on it. I would love to see it completed. Keep pushing forward!! Good luck!
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[snoopy0775]

Originally Posted by nebdrummer

....One question, do you have more pictures of how the cowl vent motor is hooked up? I have an under dash brake booster and I made my original vent switch work, but now there's just a big arm hanging down.....
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks for the informations and the kind words ;-)
I will take some detailed pictures tomorrow evening!

Thanks, Robin

[snoopy0775]

Originally Posted by nebdrummer

...One question, do you have more pictures of how the cowl vent motor is hooked up? I have an under dash brake booster and I made my original vent switch work, but now there's just a big arm hanging down...
Posted via Mobile Device

Here are a two detailed pics for you. But i have to say, that it is not connected to the vent at the moment. I placed the linkage at the original point (in the middle of the vent).

Regards, Robin.

[Jimmy51]

Originally Posted by snoopy0775

Hi again to all,
i think it is better to start a new thread, because i can´t change the title-name of my older one ("Badly needed..).

Last weekend i was on my first meeting with the chassis that we attached on Friday...and the interest and feedback of the visitors to the fair was great!!

here are the pictures...i will keep you up-to-date ;-)

Greetings from germany,
-Robin-

Wow, Daddy likes!