My '57 Truck Build "Rosa"

[57picupnewbie]

My angle die grinder broke last night. Today we headed down to pick up a new one. At the same time I picked up an air belt sander to get into these tight spots and grind down the welds. Update more on that over the weekend. For now, I found this to share with you 1955-1959 guys...

What Year Is It???


1955 2nd Series - In mid year 1955, Chevrolet introduced this new body style truck. It was completely redesigned from previous years and very few parts will interchange with the older models. Grill design has 3 horizontal bars & 4 uprights. Single headlights in front fenders. Emblem on front of hood is longer at top than bottom. Small step between cab and rear fender. First year for the Cameo, a very rare and desirable fiberglass bed pickup. First year for the optional V-8 265 cubic inch engine. Serial #'s; H2 1/2ton, M2 1/2ton long bed, J2 3/4ton, L2 1ton, etc.

1956 - Very similar to 1955 truck. Fender emblems are two pieces and mounted above horizontal line on fender. Emblem on front of hood is longer on bottom than top. Front hood emblem has a cast in V if a V-8 truck. Serial #'s; 3A 1/2ton, 3B 1/2ton long bed, 3E 3/4ton, 3G 1ton, etc.

1957 - Similar to previous years but with the following changes. Fender emblems are now one piece mounted above horizontal line on fender. Front hood emblem is same as 1956 but paint scheme is reversed. Hood has two raised humps on top running front to back. Grill now has inner and outer oval ring separated by 8 "teeth", 4 on top and 4 on bottom. First year for the optional V-8 283 cubic inch engine. Serial numbering system is same as 1956.

1958 - Dual headlights in front fenders. Grill in now one piece design with park lights mounted in ends of grill. Last year for the Cameo pickup. First year for the optional fleet side bed. Fender emblems have series designations (31, 32, 36, 38 etc.) and Chevrolet in center of emblem with Apache on top rear of emblem. Front hood emblem is 31" long with vertical design in background behind bowtie. Serial numbering system is same as 1956.

1959 - Very similar to the 1958 trucks. Fender emblems are now larger design with Chevrolet and Apache in center of emblem with series designation (31, 32, 36, 38 etc.) at rear of emblem. Front hood emblem is 36" long with square pattern design in background behind bowtie. Serial numbering system is same as 1956.

[57picupnewbie]

Today I finished grinding the welds on the inner pocket panel. I was satisfied considering I had such a tight working area. Tomorrow, I am going to coat the welds with POR-15 to prevent any possibility of rust in the future.

I do have a question for you guys: Everyone knows this is an area that water and moisture can get into. There are a few areas that have a slight gap that I could not get to for a weld. Any ideas on what I could use to seal this up? Maybe a seam sealer? I want to seal this pocket up the best I can to hopefully prevent any water or moisture from getting in here.

[OrrieG]

In my mind there are two ways to go. Seal it up and hope no moisture gets inside to settle in the dust and crud that will accumulate OR provide a drain hole to allow it to get out. When I did my corner and cab patches I left the lowest points open to drain. If you use a sealer just get some 3M body seam sealer, that is what it is made for.

[57picupnewbie]

Thanks Orrie. The drain hole is something to think about. I guess no matter what one does, eventually moisture will get in and it might as well have a way to drain it out. I could seal the top portion and put the drain hole in and cover both avenues.

I had to leave the house earlier before I finished my update.

The second thing I did today was worked on the outer pocket panel. I had already marked and cut this one when I discovered that the cab had dropped 1/2" on me. Also, I agree with BAM on the issue that the original panel fits better than a reproduction any day. After trying to fit the replacement I discovered that it was not even close to being formed correct. So, as indicated in the picture by the yellow lines, I cut the top portion off the old panel and welded it on the new reproduction panel. The bottom of the original was the part that was rusted out anyway. After quite some time of tweaking and massaging, I got it the way I wanted it. I then coated it with POR-15 as indicated by the second picture. Tomorrow, I will drill the spot weld holes and weld her in.

[Kim57]

Nice work on the outer pocket.
Kim

[57picupnewbie]

I have been having problems with my air compressor. We have been having thunder storms every evening. Being in 'South Ga." everyone know that brings along with it "High Humidity". Hence, I am getting a lot of water build up in my air system. I already have a water trap installed in-line. I can empty it before using system, then work for 2-3 hours and it will be full again.

So, I purchased water trap with a desiccant dryer (combo) and install it in addition to the first one. Same thing. First trap full and desiccant absorbed. In addition to water having to be drained from bottom of tank (about 1/2 cup).

[57picupnewbie]

I have now purchased an Automatic Drain Valve. It purges the tank every time the tank recycles or is turned on or off. It is installed on the bottom and a tube is run up and connected into the un-loader tube via a T-Compression fitting. This is between the pressure switch and the tank. The un=loader tube on the tank is a different diameter than the fitting that came with the kit so today I am looking for a reducing fitting.

[Katrina/10]

The only thing that worked for me to eliminate condensation was an inline refrigeration unit.

[57picupnewbie]

I have not posted for some time because I have been trying to fix the moisture problem with the compressor. Living in South GA is not helping the problem. The auto-release valve did not help. So, I did more research and found that I really did not design my system correctly to begin with. I only had about 5 ft of 3/4" PVC pipe from the compressor to the drop.
First thing I did was check what I had for leaks. Even though I had bolted the compressor down really good, the vibrations had caused to fittings to leak between the compressor and the first shut off valve. Also, the pressure switch had gone bad. After replacing the pressure switch and getting the compressor to cycle on and off correctly, I decided to completely re-pipe the whole system with 3/4" iron pipe.
I ordered a 2 ft flex hose to place between the compressor and the shut off valve. This would absorb any vibration. I then ran 20 ft. of iron pipe down the first wall, made a 90 degree turn and place a down blow valve. Then continued across my shop another 25 ft dropping about 4 inches the whole run. This would allow any water to run down. At this point I did another 90 degree and then a T fitting with a 16 " riser above the main line which goes over 6 " and back down for my air drop. The bottom of this will also have a blow out valve. Middle of the way of this branch is a 90 out with the water separator and the regulator and then the air line. I have found that if I drain the tank, blow the lines and drain the water separator before each day of work, I have no problems now. Everything works as advertised. Thank goodness. Hope all this makes sense and will save someone else the head ache. Here are the pics.

[57picupnewbie]

Back to the truck. I did not like how the outer pocket pnl turned out so I removed it and ordered another. I have been reworking the area again to get it the way I need it. The last one just did not line up correctly on the edge of the door hinge panel. While I was in the area, I went ahead and cleaned and filled some small holes in the lower cowl panel. They were not to large so I think I can get by with jus filling them.

[57picupnewbie]

I also have decide to powder coat my frame. If I am going to do this, I decided that I was going to go back and fill in all holes not being used and box the frame. While parts are cooling on the truck and switched over and started filling holes on the frame. Now, that the compressor is up and running I hope to be working on the truck on a regular basis now. Yes, that means you guys get to hear from me on a regular basis again. Yeh!

[57picupnewbie]

Oh Yea! One other surprise. I found a guy in Atlanta by the name of Jake Meadows who does concept drawings of peoples rides. Well, I saw his work and how good of an artist he was. I sent him a picture of my truck and drawings of all the modifications that I wanted to do to the truck. I sent him the tires, rims, pipes, windows, headlights, everything. I even sent him the graphics that I wanted on the truck. Well this is what he came up with and it is perfect. This is exactly what my vision is and where I want to go. I hope you guys like it.

[Stepside Jim]

I feel for you and the moisture air lines. I too battled the same issue. I ended up attaching my moisture trap about 30 feet from the compressor, similar to your situation. I always heard that the air needs time to cool before the moisture trap, I have to agree.

As for the truck... I also had slight pin holes in the cowl after the sand blasting, Since I was down to clean metal I went ahead and did a little fiberglass work to cover and seal the area.

Good to see you're back and fired up again.

Jim

[Kim57]

Looking good.
Nice rendering.
Kim

[57picupnewbie]

Jim - You are right. I read the general rule of thumb is up to 50' when using 3/4 " pipe. Then you allow a 4" slight drop so the water has a way to run to your blow out down spout. As far as the cowl, I am glad that it was just a small repair. I squared off the bottom and I am going to block it off with a patch and weld it up. My cowl vents are going to be smooth so there is no need for the bottom hole down there. This saves a lot of time where I would normally have to replace this with a patch panel.

Kim - Thanks, I thought he did a nice job also.

[57picupnewbie]

Air system is working like a charm. I have finished the driver's door front area. Lower hinge pocket done. Inner pocket panel done. Outer pocket panel done, removed and re-done. Bottom of cowl, patch made and complete. Area above the outer pocket panel also needed a patch. This patch was made and installed.
I have learned a lot about welding and grinding on this first side. I will have some areas to smooth out with filler but I am okay with it. I am pleased with the outcome. One thing is for sure. The structural integrity is there and that is what I wanted. As far as being lighter on weld build up, I think I have that under control for the future.
I am now starting on the cab corner. I have cut and installed the patch for the inside hole in the corner of the cab. I also have removed a portion of the inner cab panel. I know there is a lot of controversy over rather to leave or take this panel out. To me, this is a poor design feature and a trap for moisture and dirt. My truck is not original so there is no need for it. Therefore, it is coming out. Also, I am smoothing my cowl vent on the hood. This is another moisture and dirt trap. Therefore, I am capping the bottom of my cowl panels on the firewall. Pictures of progress attached.

[Kim57]

It's looking good.
I'm also going to remove my inner cab corners. I was lucky and didn't have to replace my outers.
Kim

[57picupnewbie]

Thanks Kim. Today I worked on massaging the step a little more. it sure would be nice it they made them a perfect fit.

[57picupnewbie]

I took a break away from the cab corner and the patch panels that are low due to my back. I decided to tackle the A-Pillar Patch. There is no Re-Manufactured patch for this. I found a company that you can order the whole A-pillar assembly with this section that I need for $104. Not exactly where I want to spend my money. Anyway here are the pictures of the rust problem area I am dealing with.

[57picupnewbie]

I found a donor '56 that I cut the A-Pillar section out that I needed for both sides. I carefully removed the section from my truck. Then removed the section from the donor part and went to work grooming and massaging it into place. It all worked out fairly nice. The welds are strong. I have some small areas I will have to smooth out with filler but that is fine with me. I plan on welding all the seems and finishing out with filler anyway.

[Russell Ashley]

Nice job on the repair, Dru. It's coming along nicely.

[Kim57]

Real nice repair.
Kim

[2tractors]

Hey 57pickupnewbe, I'm Ed and over here in Hawkinsville,Ga not too far from your neck of the woods and am also working on a 57 3100 big window. I read all 7 pages of your build. I don't know which way to go with my build just depends which thread I read last, c4, camaro clip,ifs and now c10. I've heard of s10's but not c10.
Presently all that's left to remove is the cab, just got the 307 out this afternoon. Here's apic of my truck and my 33 plymouth.

[goathog02]

What happened here? Like reading a great book, and finding the last few chapters missing
Everything ok?

[67Step]

Had surgery and got older. Truck is still in the garage. I need to get back on it.