Project "Never Again" will I rebuild a perfectly good truck

[chapster]

Here are the pics of it aired up with shocks 80%-90% extended.

It really looks like the steering position is out?

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by chapster

Once I double and triple checked my center location I mounted the R & P to the bracket.
The next observation was that the Aluminum clamp needs to be counterbored to allow bolts to secure the R & P body along with cleaning the look of it a bit. I have access to a mill so I will do that next week.

Ok I slept on the problem and today things are a bit more clear.
The problem originates because once the R&P is in its mounted position the Tie Rods are too close to the Sway bar mounting Stems.
The answer may be as simple as part incompatability, that R&P may not be the right model for the application you are trying to use it on because it seems like it mounts too close to the suspension cross member, maybe if you put a 1/16"-1/8" spacer in between the Aluminum plate and the steel mounting bracket it would give you the clearance you need, or maybe if your outter Tie Rod Ends were angled instead of straight, or possibly even both, either way you need some clearance so something has to be done.

[chapster]

I have pm'd Rob & Nate to have a look. I am sure we'll figure it out soon. Can't wait as I am pumped to get this in, they are nice pieces.

Cheers

[chapster]

Update:

The good,
I did not have much time but I was able to determine that the rack was not in the center position.

The bad,
When aired out it is still very very close between the rack rod and the sway bar link.

I know ChrisGMC is running the R&P with a different brand of sway bar, I will PM him to get more details.
Posted via Mobile Device

[robnolimit]

So, with the rack in the center of it's travel, does the wheel position look correct? Next, We must remember that air ride trucks travel a lot more than coil trucks. This is a problem with sway bars. There are a few solutions. 1. remove the sway bar from the frame. Drill new mounting holes appx. 5/8" farther back, and then re-mount the bar. This puts the link slightly 'back' at RH, and as the truck drops, the link travels past center and starts forward. Moving the bar back a bit helps to reduce the binding of the links. 2. Try looking at RideTech's "posi-link" sway bar link parts. You have to assemble the parts needed to make new links, but these are swivel end links, and don't bind up.

[robnolimit]

?? Did you look at both sides of the aluminum mount clamp? One side is countersunk, and one isn't.

[chapster]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

So, with the rack in the center of it's travel, does the wheel position look correct? Next, We must remember that air ride trucks travel a lot more than coil trucks. This is a problem with sway bars. There are a few solutions. 1. remove the sway bar from the frame. Drill new mounting holes appx. 5/8" farther back, and then re-mount the bar. This puts the link slightly 'back' at RH, and as the truck drops, the link travels past center and starts forward. Moving the bar back a bit helps to reduce the binding of the links. 2. Try looking at RideTech's "posi-link" sway bar link parts. You have to assemble the parts needed to make new links, but these are swivel end links, and don't bind up.

Thanks for taking a look Rob...

Now that I Measured and re-centered the rack in what I believe to be damn close to it's center position I feel that the wheels are now in proper postion that when aligned will function properly.

As for the sway bhatehat you are suggesting makes total sense but I was told that the sway bar will work fine, even with 1" forward arms so I assumed that I was missing something.

As for clamps both pieces are not counter bored but it is not a big deal to remedy that.

Thanks for the help, can't wait to try it out. Maybe in the next 10-12 years when I actually finish this thing....lol
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by chapster

As for the sway bar what you are suggesting makes total sense but I was told that the sway bar will work fine, even with 1" forward arms so I assumed that I was missing something.

Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

The 1" forward arms move the ball joint cup forward, but leave the sway bar mounts, bag plate, and shock mount in the same location as our standard arms. This does give a bit more room than the standard arms offer.

In regards to your clearance concern at full dump, the advice Rob gave would be near identical to what I would offer. However, I would recommend flipping the sway bar over first, to see if you get a better angle on the end links. It appears that you might have it upside down.

I will give you a call back later today to discuss a few things.

Nate

[chapster]

Today's update:

I flipped the swaybar as Nate sugested (thanks) and it fit much nicer so we are slowly working through my mistakes but the clearance issues still seems to be there at full dump. I do have maybe 1/4" clearance on one side and tight on the drivers side ( remember I am still in mock up stages so I could be stacking tolerances somewhere).

Will post current pics tonight. (Nate: missed you call and tried to call back but I think you were gone)

Cheers
Posted via Mobile Device

[chapster]

[QUOTE 2. Try looking at RideTech's "posi-link" sway bar link parts. You have to assemble the parts needed to make new links, but these are swivel end links, and don't bind up.[/QUOTE]

Rob,

Just looked at the posi links and this looks like a really nice set up. I think a set of these may be in the future if there isn't any reason I shouldn't use them.

Cheers
Posted via Mobile Device

[chapster]

As promised the pics giving current status to the people who have been helping me (thanks).

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Looks really good Im gonna have to look into the forward arms.. Did you get those from nate?

[chapster]

These are the standard arms but it looks like I am going to have to go with the forward arms. I went from thinking about buying a nice $400 steering box to a R & P of $900. (which is a nice set up) to now cash for forward arms because there is not enough clearance with the swaybar.......

I think I need my head examined........lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[Bennett68C10]

So the forward arms work with the No Limit rack & pinion. This is good to know as I already have the forwards arms on mine and was looking at the No Limit rack. I know your having a bit of a setback but everything looks great and I'm jealous abou how you keep your frame so clean.
Posted via Mobile Device

[chapster]

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

So the forward arms work with the No Limit rack & pinion. This is good to know as I already have the forwards arms on mine and was looking at the No Limit rack.
Posted via Mobile Device

I sure hope so, I will find out once I install them. It will be a while because I need to come up with the funds to give Nate and get them powder coated.
Posted via Mobile Device

[chapster]

On a positive note, picked up brand new electric life power windows and billet loom for $200. Retails for $370 + shipping, duty and taxes.......
Posted via Mobile Device

[chapster]

Downloaded some pics from the other day to anyone who is interested in the R & P install.

[chapster]

couple more tonight,

[chapster]

Final pic of No Limit R & P.

Thoughts now I have things temporary in place ( except for drilling spindle hole). The install is pretty straight forward, I made my own templates on CAD for clearance on bottom frame rail.
I will also oblong the upper frame rail hole similar to CHRIS67's build as it appears to be a little close. The instructions were good, customer service was great, product is top quality and I would buy it again.

If you are running it with a sway bar then you will need to look at a clearance to the sway bar links. If I wasn't already drilled for bar location then I could move it more to the cab of the truck but then the links would not be 100% perpendicular to the bar (I guess it is not that big of deal but I have alway's been advise to have them as straight as possible).

So instead I will try the PB forward bars and if I still want more clearance (which should not be required) then I will weld existing frame holes, move the sway bar towards the cab, re paint and polish touch up area.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Turned out very nice...

[67cheby]

Brautiful work
Posted via Mobile Device

[chapster]

Well, I am half way to the Goodguys Scottsdale........lol

I have one direct flight booked but I need one more for the little misses. I have some items that need taken care of in Phoenix so I might as well catch the the show and stop in at Dino's.

I will keep checking the flights next week. Maybe little misses will have to stay home..lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[CParnell]

Subscribed, I like your work.

[chapster]

Originally Posted by CParnell

Subscribed, I like your work.

Thanks CParnell,

It has been slow going but it is getting there. Can't wait to bet the engine installed with the billet pulley kit......

Cheers
Posted via Mobile Device

[chapster]

Thought I would dust off this build and update the last few months. First is some of the pics from the weekend in Phoenix at the Goodguy's show.