No Limit '72 C-10

[robnolimit]

Yes, we made the axle-side mount so that it can be flipped over, it my put the bar at too much angle. You really want the panhard rod to be level at R.H. Our panhard rod has a slight bend in it to clear the HD diff covers I'll put up some picts mon.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Yes, we made the axle-side mount so that it can be flipped over, it my put the bar at too much angle. You really want the panhard rod to be level at R.H. Our panhard rod has a slight bend in it to clear the HD diff covers I'll put up some picts mon.

I know I could go with one of your bent bars, but I like being able to adjust the bar without unbolting anything. I think the new mount would give me enough clearnece to use the double adjustable bar I have. How much for just the bracket? Thanks,

Rob

[robnolimit]

Here are install shots of our rear pahard rod kit. The chassis mount is the hardest part. The stocker has 4 rivits, that pass through 3 layers. I recomend drilling to 1/4", then punching out. Thats the way we do it. The new mount gives you three positions, and is a bolt in, using the stock holes to align it to the frame.

[robnolimit]

The axle mount is pretty basic. Slide the mount plate in between the axle pad and trailing arm, or lowering block. We provide a drivers side plate as a shim to keep the truck level. These plates are also the link mounts for our new rear sway bars. The U-saddle/mount plate have 5 deg. of adjustment via a slot for one of the mount bolts. This is to allow you to set the bar mount/bar with no binding. The bar has a 4 deg bend to clear aftermarket aluminum HD diff covers. The U-saddle can be mounted above or belowthe mount plate. The goal here is to get the panhard rod as level as possible at R.H.

[Alvin]

Rob, the truck is looking good! Glad to see you guys getting some products developed. Makes me wish I could start to build another one myself!

[gringoloco]

Coupla Qs:

Is this your set ride height? If so, it appears you could move the driver's side of the bar down a hole to level it out more. Any reason it is positioned up one?

Do you plan on doing the trailing arm forward mount flip on this truck?

The IROCs go great with the sunroof

[SS Delux]

Just wondering on how you mounted those awsome looking IROC rims ? adapters or redrilled hubs ?

[robnolimit]

Easy boys. Yes, we will flip the front mounts, one thing at a time. Yes, we dropped the chassis mount 1 hole to get it level. No, we didn't drill, these spiffy 20" IROCs came 5x5. I know, it makes you want some doesn't it!!!!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The axle mount is pretty basic. Slide the mount plate in between the axle pad and trailing arm, or lowering block. We provide a drivers side plate as a shim to keep the truck level. These plates are also the link mounts for our new rear sway bars. The U-saddle/mount plate have 5 deg. of adjustment via a slot for one of the mount bolts. This is to allow you to set the bar mount/bar with no binding. The bar has a 4 deg bend to clear aftermarket aluminum HD diff covers. The U-saddle can be mounted above or belowthe mount plate. The goal here is to get the panhard rod as level as possible at R.H.

Thanks for the pics. Any idea when you'll have the sway bar mock up complete? I'm curious to see if it will work with my setup. Thanks,

Rob

[SS Delux]

Yea I want them and especially for $400, I paid $550 for 92 chevy SS rims, tires & caps. Where can you get them from with that bolt pattern ?

[Greywolf200]

Rob, are you running 28" tires with your current setup? Do you sell the Moog springs and McGaughy drop spindles you're using?

[Greywolf200]

Is there a problem with welding the Panard bar frame bracket?

[robnolimit]

The tires are 275 45 20, they measure almost 29". In the future I see a 275 40 20, at 28". Yes we sell the springs and spindles. Springs are 119, spindles are 249. Well, yes, you could weld the mounts, but, most of todays home builders want "bolt-on" components. So, naturally thats what we're trying to give them.

[robnolimit]

Tonight we're going to track test with the new shock and panhard set-up. We'll run the first session on the old tires to get a good test against the old numbers, and then swap to those fine irocs and run the second session. I fear that due to the weight of the wheel/tire combo, it might run slower with the 20's. Have to wait and see.

[N2TRUX]

JT is rockin the IROC's. Needs a big Rebel flag in the back window and some 38 Special blasting from the cassette deck.
Posted via Mobile Device

[robnolimit]

"cassette deck" may be the hard part, - but you know we have .38 Special on the I-pod!!!!

[N2TRUX]

So how did he do last night?

[robnolimit]

You know how you buy a new Bad ass flowed carburator, bolt it on, and it runs like crap? Well it's really not the carbs fault, the rest of the motor just isn't up to the task. Thats how last night went. The new shock/panhard set up feels great. In both corner entry and exit, the rear is stable and connected. Thats good, sort of. The other thing is, you can throttle-steer a car thats 'loose' (rear slides around) but if you car/truck is tight, or pushes, you have to over brake. And thats where were at. Having the rear work is now causing a push, and we thought it would, and so we slowed our lap times to a 56.19 yes, we lost a second. Micheal mobley was our test pilot, and we also had 2 very experienced drivers take it out. All had the same experience. Tire temps show that the front is suffering, and with the rear hooked up, its just worse over all. You have to brake so much to get it to turn that you scrub off too much speed. Over all this is OK, and we kind of expected it. We stil have no sway bars, and old front shocks. So we go there next.

[Hart_Rod]

Do you think your rear sway bar will work on a truck with the shocks in the factory location?

[robnolimit]

yes, no problem. I'll post picts once we have it installed.

[Zoomin]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Tonight we're going to track test with the new shock and panhard set-up. We'll run the first session on the old tires to get a good test against the old numbers, and then swap to those fine irocs and run the second session. I fear that due to the weight of the wheel/tire combo, it might run slower with the 20's. Have to wait and see.

What was the verdict on the tire/wheel swap?

[robnolimit]

Ha, well, I'd have to say that the difference is really small. The wheels are heavier, requiring a bit more brake going in. On the plus side, the tire grips a bit better, as would any tire less than 10 yrs old. Even though our lap numbers were slower, the truck feels better driving around, and a few more updates should bring the numbers down. We're going at this step by step so that you can see the progress, and what changes. Most trucks already have 'something' done, so this may help on the next changes or upgrades your deciding on.

[gringoloco]

Coupla questions on your panhard setup: Are they provided with poly bushings, or a rod-end? I see both in your pics. Also, any concerns with being a single vs double shear mount on the chassis side? And why the two piece construction (i.e: bottom and side pieces of the chassis mount bolt together, as opposed to an 'L' shaped bracket)?

Not intentionally picking your stuff apart, just curious. Very nice to see you guys experimenting and injecting some new products into this market

[68GMCCustom]

looks like routing the exhaust out the back gets a bit tougher....

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Coupla questions on your panhard setup: Are they provided with poly bushings, or a rod-end? I see both in your pics. Also, any concerns with being a single vs double shear mount on the chassis side? And why the two piece construction (i.e: bottom and side pieces of the chassis mount bolt together, as opposed to an 'L' shaped bracket)?

Not intentionally picking your stuff apart, just curious. Very nice to see you guys experimenting and injecting some new products into this market

Hey, ask away. We're not shy here. Our panhard rod kits come with a poly bushing on the axle end, and a rod end on the chassis mount. The bolt-on chassis mount is made from 1/4" steel, and the rod end - bolt is 3/4". We have used this on Enduro cars for more than 20 yrs with no failures. Now if this were a poly sleaved bushing with a 5/8" bolt through 3/16" mount, then I would say it could be a problem.Why the 2 piece construction? - if we made it as a formed "L" bracket, it would be cheaper to produce, but, the current assembly provides a full 3 dimensional load to the chassis, and an "L" would not be as strong. The Axle mount end is also two piece, so that it can be flipped over.

As far as exhaust plumbing, I would say that it's easier. I'll post up some picts as I plumb the JT