My grandsons 68 stepper

[54belair]

Ive got some pics now with the tail lights installed. Ive wanted oval lights since the beginning, rather than the large round lights. Im still unsure on the lights??? I would also like to run the backup lights---but the factory light seems too big compared to the tail light. What do you think guys?? (Im also going to post a thread with pics in the gen. discussion forum.

[71Sleeper]

The oval lights look great by themselves but with the backup lights being so large they just take away the smooth look. Just my opinion. If you could some how place the backup lights in the bumper I think would look nice.

[54belair]

This is gonna take some thought. Im not as impressed with the ovals as I once was.

Im afraid I see another money pit in the making. I mounted the original lights, and while they "fit" better with the back up lights, they just weren't the "look" I want (although I obviously don't know what that "look" is!!).
The huge Round lites will obviously throw the most light--but sort of take away from the "look" in the rear.(?)
Maybe a vert. row of three Cadillac bullits on each side?????? (just joking!)

[jim-bob]

Originally Posted by 54belair

Well, today I didn't set any records for amount of work done----but Ive got an excuse, Im Old!!!! lol

With my wifes help I got the rear fenders on and the tailgate in place! We both had to set back a few minutes and OOOO- an AHHH, Its looking pretty good. I see a few things I should have done different--but the trucks' not going to Barrett-Jackson so I can live with them.

Is the 4th pic of this post the gas filler tube behind the tag?

[54belair]

Yes, it is. I moved the tank to the rear (installed a 1969 Camaro tank), reworked the original gas filler hole to a teardrop shape and installed a pwr antenna there'
To make the Camaro filler neck work, you have to space the tank down an inch (or as much as 1 1/2". My drop is 1" and its close. Then used a chevy tilt license plate holder.

There are some other pics of that install earlier in the build.

[jim-bob]

Originally Posted by 54belair

Yes, it is. I moved the tank to the rear (installed a 1969 Camaro tank), reworked the original gas filler hole to a teardrop shape and installed a pwr antenna there'
To make the Camaro filler neck work, you have to space the tank down an inch (or as much as 1 1/2". My drop is 1" and its close. Then used a chevy tilt license plate holder.

There are some other pics of that install earlier in the build.

I do believe that's the way I want to go..Thanks!

[jlsanborn]

I don't think the ovals look right either. This is always an issue with steppers. Have you considered a square body stepper light with the integrated back up lamps?

[54belair]

To finally put the tail light issue to bed--I'm going with the stock lights--done!!

I just looked at the beginning of this build thread-- My initial post was Oct. 2011 while the actual tear down started in early April 2012 ( I think)----and here we are 4 1/2 years later.

While I haven't kept up with the thread lately, I did spend a lot of time on the wiring---finally figuring out that I had bought a defective fuse block (not wired correctly per their own diagram).
Ive got the new carpet installed, now I'm waiting on the custom made kick panels and the carpet panel that will fit behind the seats on the rear cab wall. Ill wait and post pic. update when I get the rest of the carpet in.
I'm trying to get the interior wrapped up so that I can move on to installing drivers door and re-installing the front clip. Sounds simple doesn't it-- "installing front clip", we'll see. After the clip is on and adjusted then Ill wire the starter and do all the little things left to do to initially fire the new engine.

I have put off a few other projects till this one is done----and I think Ive ran out of excuses for not finishing it!!!

[jlsanborn]

Good to hear! Standing by for the updates

[54belair]

I got the word today that it is going to be two weeks before the last carpet panels will be ready!!?? If I could find an industrial sewing machine, I buy it and finish it myself. So, I'm shut down on the interior for two weeks. I may set the seats in the truck, just not in final place and go ahead and hang the drs. door and start on the front clip.
The seats fit very close up against the cab back panel so they cant b in place bfore the back panel carpet. No excuse this time--just poor scheduling.

[54belair]

Finally made some "noticeable" progress this week.
The carpeting is in-- kick panels in place, I added another layer of insulation/sound deadener to the cab back panel before the carpet panel went up. I attached the carpet panel with 7 screws then velco on both sides behind the door. I started to glue it in place but decided the 7 screws would be enough.

[54belair]

After the carpet I finally got to install the seats!! I bought these three years ago--just now got there!! After the seats were in, I hung the drivers door---with a little adjusting I managed to get the gap exactly where I wanted it.

I did some other adjustments, but no pics--- when I had the right fender on once before I couldn't get the front door gap to a uniform width----no matter how I adjusted it, it was still too close (for my liking) at the top even though I did have enough to open and close the door. Well, After another guy casually ask a question on facebook it came to me like switching on a light bulb----by raising the cab at the front mounts using a 3/16" spacer--that ought to increase the gap at the upper fender area in the front. Sounds like it will work anyway, so I gave it a try--we'll see when I put the front clip back on.
The truck also had to be inspected by its future owner this evening.

[54belair]

A few more of the door and inspectors

[54belair]

I also bought (three years ago) a 67 (I think) console which I was going to install, I went ahead and set it in between the seats but I'm thinking it has to sit too far back because of the 4 speed shifter. The jury is still out on that one, I may wait till I can drive it to see if it is too close to the shifter in 4th gear.
If it wont work, Ill add it to the pile of stuff that Ill have left over to sell. Stuff that "should have worked" but didn't or stuff that I didn't like when I did install it. Stay tuned boys and girls, a big garage sale will be coming one of these days!!!

[54belair]

A little more progress before the holiday.

1. I managed to get the wing windows apart, rebuilt and now waiting for install when I get the glass back from the glass shop (had them tinted).

2. Had an issue with the door handles. The generic aftermarket handles that are supposed to fit all---Don't, at least not a 67 door. I spent a few days trying to locate new handles For a 67 but didn't have any luck. I could make these fit by elongating the holes in the door---But, that didn't happen! One reader suggested that I j b weld a bolt in the mounting holes of the handle then cut them flush with the mounting surface and re-drill the handles at the correct angle. I have never been an advocate of that type of re-drilling (usually doesn't come out well), but I was out of options so that's what I did and----to my amazement it worked. So, now I have door handles!

3. Iv e gone about as far as I can on doors until I get the glass back, so it was On to mounting the drivers front fender. I worked with gaps again most of the afternoon and it doesn't look bad---but the drivers fender will have to come off again. The lower fender mount as well as most of the hinge post was welded in new---it was supposed to have been fitted at that time----but wasn't. Now I have to see what I can do about bringing "in" the bottom of the fender some by massaging the lower mount.

4. Anyway, its starting to look like a truck again. After this bit of body work it will be onto mechanical things again and getting her ready to fire the new engine (sometime this winter!) I still have a large punch list.

[54belair]

I also have to add that not all the recent work was done by me alone. I hired a new helper recently, training is coming along pretty well---today she told me "get out of my seat--I drive" Just cant get any respect anymore!!!

[jlsanborn]

Looking good! I'm in the same spot with new re-pop door handles for my '67. Any more detail on the way you modified yours? Is the new hole sorta centered on the old one? How much of the old hole intersects with the new one?

[54belair]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Looking good! I'm in the same spot with new re-pop door handles for my '67. Any more detail on the way you modified yours? Is the new hole sorta centered on the old one? How much of the old hole intersects with the new one?

I didn't take any pics of the process but I can tell you what and how I did it:

First of all, I took a generic screw/bolt (not grade 5 or 8), mixed up some two part JB weld and lightly coated the threads in the handle as well as the threads on the screw and ran the screw into the handle tightly. I let the JB cure for 24 hrs. I then cut off the screws flush and smooth with the face of the handle.

I took a center punch and punched the new hole on the center of the old hole.

Youll be drilling into the handle at about a 70 deg. angle to the mounting face. (if you place the handle on a table with the mounting side Up--you will drill straight down. In the past Ive not had much luck redrilling a hole at a diff. angle, but this time it worked. Start your pilot hole with a bit something less than 1/8", drill slowly so you wont get any drill bit deflection.
Its not brain surgery so if you are off angle a couple deg. it shouldn't make any diff. Then go back and drill your final hole with a #7 drill bit. I drilled the holes 5/8th" deep then I used a 1/4 x20 bottoming tap. You will need 3/4" bolts with a washer if you go 5/8ths deep.

I drilled slowly by hand and used a manual tap handle.( both slowly due to soft metal) I had access to a drill press--but clamping the handle so that you don't scar it is tough--so I just held the work piece and drilled slowly

Since you are starting in the center of the previous bolt--and went at an angle compared to the original bolt, you will be drilling thru the old threads and into the bottom of the handle. When you drill your pilot hole be slow and careful so you don't break the pilot bit (if it breaks, you've just bought a new handle!!)

I have them mounted and they seem to fit correctly?? I don't know that
my way is the Right way---but it worked this time!!!!

Its a long post, if I can confuse you any further feel free to message me.

[54belair]

I haven't taken new pics yet---the only thing Ive gotten done since last week has been TRYING to get the front clip aligned. Ive had fenders off and on a few times. I had previously assembled the grill assy--well that had to be un assembled and tweaked as necessary. I also had to play with cab mount shims to help get the spacing between door front and fender within MY tolerance. Its still not perfect (which is a pet peave of mine) but its close and I'm at the point of sayng f&%@ it and living with what I have! Another few hours should finish up the clip!---then I can get on with the side windows. I got the glass back from the tint shop today so its about time to start that.

[jlsanborn]

Thanks for the explanation! I had searched around for the "mod", as I'm sure many '67 owners have run into this. I never did find anything though. I'll give your method a go.

Look forward to seeing them gaps!

[54belair]

There is also one other option (possible option)!

If you are still at the fabrication stage---you can also slightly modify the doors . (My doors were perfect oem doors and they were already painted)

On your 67 doors, the door handle screws go thru the door horizontally while the handles are drilled at aprox a 70 deg angle.

You can take a round file (I would never suggest a Drill) and elongate the holes in the door. The outer skin will have to have the hole elongated Up while the inside panel will have to be elongated Downward. You will have to use a longer screw if you do this----and you will need to fab. a triangular block drilled for the screw. If you don't use this triangular block when the screw head contacts the inner door it will tend to want to push your handles downward. This little block gives the screw head a flat surface to tighten against. (In case you want to try this method--you can start with a 3/4" cube of Aluminum. Drill a 1/4" clearance hole thru it----then cut/file it into a triangular shape with one side being 70 deg.

This was my preferred method but I was in a hurry and decided to try the redrilling.

[jlsanborn]

Hmmm... I'll have to figger it out before paint then. My doors are in primer, ready for blocking.

[54belair]

Ive been doing some small thngs----and waiting for parts again, but here are the latest pics. Ive been trying to finish up the front clip alignment as well as installing the door glass. It took me a couple hours yesterday to get the drivers door finshed, this morning (as soon as the shop warms up a little) I'm going to start on finishing the pass. door glass. After the glass, Ill have to install the rear view mirrors then I can install the interior door panels and be finished with the interior.
I keep expanding my punch list of the things it takes to finish----but that good, rather have a long list than forget something.

[54belair]

Just under three hours (30 minutes of that was cussing Chinese parts and making them fit), I managed to get the pass. side windows in including the moldings and wx strip.

The wing window locks were the prob. today. They require just over a 90 deg. rotation and these were not right--had about 30 deg. rotation so I had to file the post at an angle to make them fit (if you've ever had this prob. you know what I'm talking about.) Then the holes for the roll pin was extremely too small-----but in the end it works, they are installed and I can move on.

As a side note----- I will never go with vent windows again (assuming I ever do another one of these trucks) The vent window rebuild was a royal PIA, plus I'm not really happy with the outcome---I bought the best parts and spent a lot of time on them and I'm not sure they wont leak air. Would have been cheaper and quicker to go with the 1pc window again. Anyway, as I said--its done!!! Now on to other things....

[Low Elco]

Well, you're doing nice work! With all the (cute) help you can stand!