Project Roxy

[72BlckButy]

Nice work on the tank mount.

[Rochlow]

Thanks guys..
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[67c10rustbuket]

Very nice progress!

[Rochlow]

Not sure if I'm doing this right, but I'm not building the truck to win trophies, just to go to a few shows
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[sduckworth13]

Looks pretty solid from here, nice work

[Rochlow]

It was pretty hard to get that panel to sit right. And still it's all wavy by the toe board. I guess I will put some seam sealer on top and bottom and see how that goes.

[DeaconT]

You may want to put the door on before you weld the rocker on. This will help with the door reveal. Nice work on the frame. Are you going to shave the any of the cab or are you going for a stock look? I'm working on my 72 and will keep most of the stock look. I will weld up the seams that are seen but kinda like the drip rail but don't like the leaks from the caulk.

[Rochlow]

Yea the outer rockers were the last thing I was going to put on and want to use the door as a reference.

I am going for a stock appearance. However, I did see a mod to the drip rail that I like alot. It's filling the seam just above the windshield. I will probably pass on doing it, but I liked it alot.

[Rochlow]

Holy crap!! Thought I'd never see this!! First test fit of the outer rocker.


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[gringoloco]

Good progress. Will be worth it to know its all rust free
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[Rochlow]

Lol.. I don't about rust free, but less rusty.. It's been a lot of work and I've been doing everything myself. At least I will have a sense of accomplishment when it's done.
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[DeaconT]

Test fit looks good. I am working on the doors on my project and noticed the bottom curved in on one corner. It has no damage but it doesn't look like it belongs there. I haven't put the rockers on yet because I want to make sure they will match up to the doors.

I have sandblasted the bottom of the inside of the doors to eliminate the rust spots and have been looking a good way to fill in the pocmarks left from the rust. It's not bad enough to replace but a couple go all the way through the inner skin. Any suggestions?

[Rochlow]

Places that go all the way through I might just make a patch. Places that had pockmarks or imperfections left from rust I might use spot filler putty to see if that would work.
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[Rochlow]

I put these up for sale, but after putting the trim rings and caps on, I really like them.
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[Rochlow]

Merry Christmas, Roxy!
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[Last_Paladin]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

I put these up for sale, but after putting the trim rings and caps on, I really like them.
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Run 'em.

[Stefan.]

Nice wheels

[mooseknuckles]

sweet build!

[Rochlow]

Driver's side test fit.


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[sduckworth13]

Looking good, you've been busy. I like that you took a real nice truck to start with and are making it better than it was. I've never rode in a porterbuilt dropped C10, but I had 1967 gmc longbed with a 4 1/2 front drop and 6 in the back and it steered like a truck on rails. I can only imaging how your truck is going to handle. Nice work.
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[Rochlow]

Thank you sir! Been referring to you build for the sheetmetal repair.
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[sduckworth13]

Cool, glad it's helping you. I actually used a level to line my rocker and door up. First on my cab ( the flat front part the seats sit on), then my rocker and then after I got the door on where I thought it fit right, I then put a level on it and it was by luck exactly 0 degrees level. Most people just eyeball it but since I had never done any panel replacement, I needed the assistance.
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[Rochlow]

I've been eyeballing most of the stuff. I'm stuck on the replacing the drivers side floor panel now. Not sure how to approach the toeboard/floor board seam. I have an idea how to do it, just have to cut a patch out of my other cab.

[sduckworth13]

On the toeboard seam floor, I wouldn't worry to much about folding a piece of metal to match the seam. Get your flat floor panel in first and then if you want to fancy cut a gap where the seams meet and put a strip of metal in and weld it up for your edge. If that make sense.
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[Rochlow]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

On the toeboard seam floor, I wouldn't worry to much about folding a piece of metal to match the seam. Get your flat floor panel in first and then if you want to fancy cut a gap where the seams meet and put a strip of metal in and weld it up for your edge. If that make sense.
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That's one of the approaches I was looking at. The other is cut the seam out of other cab on each side and weld it place. Then, butt the floor pan against the hangover on the lower portion of the seam.