Great deal on new crate engine

[jae]

So while putting this crate engine in my brother's '73 this weekend, we noticed there is a dipstick port on both sides of the engine. How do you go about blocking one off?

[hamjet]

I know years ago I had an engine with a metal dowel pressed in on one side. don't know where you would get one thow..

[Carl Spangler]

This engine block has provisions for either a left or right hand dipstick.
The user must plug the unused side with a plug.(Included in bag)
LH plug: 3837057
RH plug: 9421743

[jae]

Originally Posted by Carl Spangler

This engine block has provisions for either a left or right hand dipstick.
The user must plug the unused side with a plug.(Included in bag)
LH plug: 3837057
RH plug: 9421743

Ah, perfect. I was wondering what those were for, figured they were replacement dowel pins for the bellhousing/block interface.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Brings up a good question, my current motor has a crappo generic dip stick.

Does anyone know/have the GM part number for the dipstick, and what side would be correct for these trucks? I have a 700R with it on the PS.

Also, I would like to use a GM HEI dizzy. The one I have is old and pitted. Anyone have a P/N for a GM HEI, rebuilds are fine.

[Lee H]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Brings up a good question, my current motor has a crappo generic dip stick.

Does anyone know/have the GM part number for the dipstick, and what side would be correct for these trucks? I have a 700R with it on the PS.

Also, I would like to use a GM HEI dizzy. The one I have is old and pitted. Anyone have a P/N for a GM HEI, rebuilds are fine.

For the dip stick and tube GM # 3876870 upper tube, the correct dip stick is GM # 3951576 and the correct lower tube is GM # 3951600, all still available from GM, classic industries, and probably a few other sources.

The lower tube slips in before the upper tube. All GM production motors came from the factory with a lower tube. The lower tube keeps the dip stick positioned in place to keep from getting hit by the crank shaft counter weights.

[flashed]

Does anyone know if the oil filter assembly is included on these crate motors and if not where do I find one ? The last crate motor I bought from GM did not come with it and we had to rob one from an old motor .Mine is still in the crate waiting its turn but I would like to have all the parts ready.

[Lee H]

Not included with the motor. The spin on oil filter adaptor is GM part number 19299222, and the bolts are part number 3951644.

[flashed]

Thanks for all the part numbers and info ,just what I needed .

[67ChevyRedneck]

I know, this is great.

Lee H, do you know a generic P/N for the GM HEI distributer, I think a lot of people use the 75-ish vette one?

[Lee H]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I know, this is great.

Lee H, do you know a generic P/N for the GM HEI distributer, I think a lot of people use the 75-ish vette one?

1975 was HEIs first year. There are many part numbers. If rebuilt is OK with you just go to your local auto house and get a rebuilt "GM" unit for any late 70s car, 75 vette is a good choice. Then you will need HEI plug wires. 75 vette is a good choice. I like to buy wire, ends, and boots in bulk and build my own.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Truck has HEI now, it's been a great addition. Thanks, I'll look into it!

[LockDoc]

-
I don’t know about anyone else but the engine I ordered from Jegs did not include break in instructions. I saved the instructions from my last 350ci 260hp crate engine so I thought I would post them in this thread. The normal disclaimers apply to this document such as no guarantee of accuracy, correctness, or omissions, and you use it at your own risk… All I can tell you is that I used these instructions for the crate engine I installed in my ’69 Suburban last summer and it worked great…. It also includes a lot of other useful info. Just print it out and hang it on the wall.

If anyone finds any errors please let me know and I will check them out.

Thanks,
LockDoc


------------------------------------------------
Initial Crate Engine Break In Procedure

The following form is the GM recommended crate engine start-up procedure with some minor changes made to it by Sallee Chevrolet. You can use this form for keeping track of your engine's break-in.

GM'S RECOMMENDED CRATE ENGINE START-UP PROCEDURE

Print this document out and check off numbers below when each step is completed.

1) Safety first! If the car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear. Next verify that all hoses are tight and that both the radiator and radiator over flow jar/tank are full and have been filled with the proper anti-freeze and water mix.
2) Before starting your engine for the first time, add one pint of engine oil supplement ( EOS¹) to the crankcase oil and then check the oil level. Once this has been done, prime the oil system with an oil pump primer tool. Make sure number 1 cylinder is on TDC compression stroke, and install the distributor.
3) Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start up and smoothest idle possible.
4) When the engine first starts, verify that the engine rpm is at a safe level and that the timing is set near or at 30° before top dead center (BTDC). Run the engine speed between 1,500 and 2,500 RPM's, varying the engine speed up and down with-in this range, to prevent overheating of the exhaust valves and the exhaust system. This should be done with no-load on the engine and for the first 30 minutes of operation.
5) After the first 30 minutes of the engine running, set the ignition timing according to the timing specifications. Now would be a good time to check thoroughly for leaks.
6) Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
7) Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM.
8) Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 3,800 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.
9) Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 3,800 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.
10) Change the oil and filter with recommended oil (10w30SG in most cases) and filter.
11) Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 3,800 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12) Change oil and filter again.
13) Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles!

Note¹: EOS P/N 1052367 can be used any time during the life of the engine.
Technical Note: This procedure has been corrected and improved from the original GMPP procedure by Sallee Chevrolet.

Warning: Your engine will not be fully broke in until after at least 2,000 miles of driving have been put on it with normal organic oil.

Installation Parts You May Need
10147994 - Intake Gasket
12346192 - Silicon Sealant for Intake Gasket

Both of the following gaskets are needed for the fuel pump mounting plate:
10114141 - Fuel Pump Gasket
12560223 - Fuel Pump Mounting Plate Gasket

This would also be a good time to go to a chromed fuel pump block off plate or mounting plate if you are planning on adding chrome to your engine or you can just reuse your existing mounting or block off plate. Sallee Chevrolet can supply you with a chromed block off plate that has the Chevy Bow Tie on it as well as a chromed mechanical fuel pump and chromed fuel pump mounting plate if you plan on running a mechanical fuel pump.

You can use either a 1 quart or 3/4 quart oil filter with this engine.
25160561 - 1 Quart Oil Filter (ACDelco PF1218)
25324052 - 3/4 Quart Oil Filter (ACDelco PF454)

05613957 - Spark Plug (ACDelco R45TS) [Gap @ .035 for points distributor, .045 for HEI distributor]

Flexplates and Flywheels that can be used depending on your application:
00471598 - 14 inch diameter flexplate (automatic transmissions)
00471529 - 12.75 inch diameter flexplate (automatic transmissions)
03991469 - 14 inch diameter flywheel (manual transmissions)

Harmonic dampers that can be used:
06272221 - 6.75 inch harmonic damper
06272222 - 8 inch harmonic damper

Thermostats that can be used:
10207381 - 180°F Thermostat
12514334 - 195°F Thermostat
10105135 - Thermostat Gasket

Water pumps that can be used:
12522016 - Cast iron, long-leg style, water pump for 1969 through 1976 applications.
88894341 - Cast iron, Long-leg style, water pump for 1977 through 1987 applications.
12458926 - Cast iron, short-leg style, water pump for 1967 through 1972 pickups and cars up to 1968.
12458924 - Cast iron, short-leg style, water pump for 1971 through 1981 Corvettes.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What to do after installation and initial break-in is completed.

1) Check oil level.
2) Check engine coolant for level and proper temperature protection for your location. Also check that the coolant is cycling properly and that the thermostat is opening when the engine warms up.
3) Check for leaks and retighten fan belts.
4) If you have installed an aluminum intake manifold, you must re-torque the intake bolts. Torque to 35 ft.-lbs. or tighten snuggly with a wrench, if no torque wrench is available or practical for your application.
5) If your engine has tubular exhaust headers, retighten the header bolts after the initial engine break-in to prevent leaks.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Periodic Maintenance

1) Change engine oil and oil filter every 3,000 miles or every 3 months whichever comes first. At the time you are changing the oil, you should also inspect the air filter and the PCV filter. Replace these if dirty.
2) Do a monthly check of fluid levels and check for fluid leaks.
3) Do a monthly check of fan belt tension and condition.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

350ci/5.7L Engine Torque Specifications

Camshaft Sprocket Bolt/Screw - 18 ft.-lbs.
Connecting Rod Nut - .006 bolt stretch preferred 20 ft.-lbs + additional 55° (45 ft.-lbs. if no angle gauge available)
Crankshaft Balancer Bolt/Screw - 63 ft.-lbs.
Crankshaft Balancer Pulley - 35 ft.-lbs.
Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolt/Screw and Stud - Inner: 70 ft.-lbs, Outer: 65 ft.-lbs.
Cylinder Head Bolt/Screw - 65 ft.-lbs.
Distributor Bolt/Screw - 25 ft.-lbs.
Drain Plug - 15 in.-lbs.
Engine Oil Gallery Plug - 15 ft.-lbs.
Engine front Cover Bolt/Screw - 75 in.-lbs.
Exhaust Manifold Stud and Bolt/Screw - 26 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel Bolt/Screw - 65-70 ft.-lbs.
Intake Manifold Bolt/Screw:
First Pass - 15 ft.-lbs.
Final Pass - 35 ft.-lbs.
Oil Filter Adapter Bolt/Screw - 17 ft.-lbs.
Oil Level Indicator Tube Bolt/Screw - 106 in.-lbs.
Oil Pan Assembly:
Corner Nut/Bolt/Screw - 15 ft.-lbs.
Side Rail Bolt/Screw - 165 in.-lbs.
Oil Pan Drain Plug - 15 ft.-lbs.
Oil Pump Bolt/Screw To Rear Crankshaft Bearing Cap - 66 ft.-lbs.
Oil Pump Cover Bolt/Screw - 80 in.-lbs.
Spark Plug (Tapered Seat) - 15 ft.-lbs.
Starter Motor Bolt/Screw - 35 ft.-lbs.
Valve Rocker Arm Cover Bolt/Screw - 25 in.-lbs.
Water Pump Bolt/Screw and Stud - 30 ft.-lbs.
__________________

[midniteblues]

doc thats some great info. they should use that in fac section.

i once helped a fellow install a freshly rebuilt 327 in a 66 imp. in the excitement of starting the engine he/we overlooked putting any water in it.he thought i put it in an i though he put it in.

fired it up left it roar for 15-20 min. it sounded great but it smoked us out the garage so we went outside but we kept checking on it.

i left a lil' later after he shut it down (it was late).

the next day he went too start it it sounded terrible.
when i got there i checked everything over an there was no coolant.
that engine lived a very short life after the rebuild

it just goes to show that mistakes can happen but when you use a list like this its less likely that mistakes will be made.

of course he totally blamed me for "our" mistake.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
I don’t know about anyone else but the engine I ordered from Jegs did not include break in instructions. I saved the instructions from my last 350ci 260hp crate engine so I thought I would post them in this thread. The normal disclaimers apply to this document such as no guarantee of accuracy, correctness, or omissions, and you use it at your own risk… All I can tell you is that I used these instructions for the crate engine I installed in my ’69 Suburban last summer and it worked great…. It also includes a lot of other useful info. Just print it out and hang it on the wall.

If anyone finds any errors please let me know and I will check them out.

Thanks,
LockDoc

I noticed that. I looked all over/under the crate, etc and couldn't find anything. Kinda shocked. Even my autozone rebuild came with break in instructions! Thanks for the info! I was going to ask when I got close to putting mine in.

[Palf70Step]

IN addition to what LockDoc has, I ran the vavoline 10W40 Racing oil which is very high in the zincie stuff, plus the eos stuff from GM. It may have been over kill, but I have seen to many folks loose a CAM by not having enough break in lube. After draining it from the break in, I redid it with the Vavoline Racing Oil again. I just want to make sure the engine gets the lubricant properties it needs. I do recommend don't change by mileage, but time also. I change mine every 2-3 months regardless of the miles.

Oh yeah, mine from the local GM dealer didn't include instructions either

[72bowtiestepper]

Thanks for that great info. LockDoc......Many people forget about using the oil suppliment & proper cam break-in. I hate to hear about anyone ruining a new engine !

[BB72CHEVKT]

Anyone know what day this sale ended? Jeg's said they will price match up to 30 days after the sale ended.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by BB72CHEVKT

Anyone know what day this sale ended? Jeg's said they will price match up to 30 days after the sale ended.

12-16-13

http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=400444180233

[i82much]

Wow that is a screaming deal. For those who think these trucks need more motivation, I dunno. At least my longbed seems like it really couldn't make much use out of more power.

[BB72CHEVKT]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

12-16-13

http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=400444180233

Thanks.

[Ironangel]

Thanks for the heads up on the motor 67ChevyRedneck, excellent thread! I cant rebuild the motor I have on the stand for the non sale price...Believe I'm going to pull the trigger on it...Good info addition there LockDoc! That parts list and torque spec. chart, (the whole post actually!) takes all the guesswork and research out of building and properly breaking one of these baby's in! Now if I can just get my finger to...to, to...Done! New motor comin! Thanks again, love this forum! ..."Oh Honey, guess what?" "Happy Valentines Day!"

[hamjet]

It's been a while since you guys bought your engines, how many got them fired up and running? are you happy with it? GOT STORIES????

[orbframe]

im about to stab the engine into my 68 this weekend

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by hamjet

It's been a while since you guys bought your engines, how many got them fired up and running? are you happy with it? GOT STORIES????

Mine won't go in until spring.

LockDoc