64' K10 Project Long Bed

[aotte1]

Photos of the emergency brake set-up levers. It is not all set up, however, you can kind of see the parts to it. Main part not set-up is the front of cables from the rear drums are not in the frame cross member brackets that hold them, along with cable ends not attached to end of level set-up.


Hope this makes a little sense. Will take more photos and show front cable routing.

Les

Note: Photos are not consistent as to front/rear of frame, e.g. front of frame changes from left to right of photos.

[aotte1]

Additional photo of emergency brake cable set-up showing bracket attachment location to frame crossmember where transfer case mounts. Socket/wrench is removing these bolts.

[aotte1]

A few more emergency brake photos. First is the clips that held cable to the frame, they have galvanized coating with plastic surface on one end. Clips seem a little odd, did GM use galvanized clips?? You can see their location on frame in earlier photos. Second is end of cable from rear brakes. Third is close up of bracket where rear cables attach.

[aotte1]

Brake Line Blocks

Below is photo of front brake line block, the truck has two of these. One front and one rear. The second photo shows where the front block connects to the frame. Kind of look original but can not be sure. Again St Louis truck.

[aotte1]

Brake Line Frame Clips

The photos below show the location of the brake line clips on the frame. The rear brake clips are on the right frame rail and the front brake line clips are on the left side frame rail ( it is last photo).


Les

[aotte1]

Clip that Attaches Brake Line to Frame - Close-up

The photos below shows details of the brake line clips used to attach line to frame. The finish/coating is black paint.

[aotte1]

Left Frame Rail Clips with location on the frame. Last photo shows clip close-up.

[aotte1]

Brake line clip installed in frame before removed for cleaning.

[aotte1]

Another clip, two were on left frame rail near rear. One is partially broken. The clip is attached to frame by a compression circular ring.

[61K10]

lines don't look org. did the hoses go through the frame? looks like they were split at one time.

[aotte1]

61K10,

Will check tomorrow and get back to you, the brake lines were changed some, as a hydraulic emergency brake was added at some time.

Les

[aotte1]

Both front brake hoses metal ends fit to the frame, held in place by the typical "U" shaped clip on right side. Left side will go back and look to see how the block attached to it. First photo is left side and second is right side and also shows the spring and clip that holds hose in certain position.

The third photo shows the hydraulic emergency brake that was added.

Agree some of the brake lines look like they were replaced.

Les

[aotte1]

Looked at the "60-66 chevy/GMC Truck Factory Assembly Instruction Manual" , the blocks/ tee connectors and unions look correct and at location shown from preliminary review. The front hose/ tee connectors/ line looks as shown.

The forward part of line to rear looks like it has an additional line added for the hyd emergency brake.

[61K10]

now i see why the mod. my hoses go through the frame, then a thin nut screwed on (locks the hose in the frame) then cooper washer--block c/washer--special bolt through block screwed into brake hose. I will be changing my brake lines for the disc and master cyl.

[aotte1]

61K10,

Yes that sounds like mine too. You going to bigger dia. brake lines for the front disc brakes, I think we need to.

Have not got that far with this conversion. Initial thinking is to go with brake line size Chevy used on trucks with the JB5 brake option package, along with master cylinder with similar bore. The JB5 truck brake option was an outstanding braking package, that still compares well to current braking packages per member Keith. Need to compare rear wheel cylinder bore diameter too.

Les

[aotte1]

Rear Leaf Spring Shackle Removal

Removing the rear springs:
(Pretreated the areas to be removed for a couple of days with Kroal)
- first removed all the lubrication fittings,
- Locking bolt removal, first remove lock washer and nut, then use brass drift and hammer, to drive locking bolt out, followed by alignment punch. One moderate blow released it. Removed both upper and lower locking bolts now while still attached to frame. Plan to take both pins out for cleaning and checking bushings.
- shackle pin was driven out from inside with drift and hammer, it came out pretty easy, moderate force started it and a few more blows had it half out. Leaving them in a little for now, until frame is loaded on trailer for cleaning.

The five photos below show the locking bolt removal, along with bolts removed. First photo show shackle are before starting. Photo two shows the bolt with nut and washer removed before removal. Photo three and four shows tools used ( the alignment punch has a different piece of metal stuck on it).

Les

[aotte1]

Lower shackle pin removal photos. Used the same drift and hammer in the above photo. While apart will also clean out old and some what dried grease.


Last two photos show rear spring bottom out bumper.

[aotte1]

Rear Shock Frame support bushings, two of them fit inside the frame. Upper shock bolt goes through them, along with frame.

[61K10]

Les-- I just replied to your questions on my build. where your rear pins and bushings warn bad? Have not replaced mine. Should have done it with the bare frame like you lol!

[aotte1]

61K10,

The bushings seem good. Will do a more detailed review once all cleaned up.
Thanks for help on removing front spring rear shackle plates.

Les

[aotte1]

CaptainFab's Power Steering Adapter Plate Welded

Photos of the adapter plate welded to frame. Earlier posts give more detail on where it is located on the frame. (Will provide report on how it drives in awhile)

Les

[aotte1]

Front Sway Bar Brackets from '78 K10 Mounted to Frame Crossmember

The brackets that attach the front sway bar to the frame crossmember were welded to the frame. This is part of installing the Dana 44 axle with attached sway bar, power steering gear box, and steering linkage all from a '78 K10. Think all these parts are pretty much the same from '73 to '87, know they are from '78 to '83. Axles changed from Dana 44 to 10 Bolt but fit the same.

The photos show the brackets welded, will do a little finish grinding and they will blend into the frame once painted.

Note: The new Miller 180 Diversion TIG welder is working really well, like it a lot. The welding above did not push it at all. Could weld several inches at a time.

Les

[61K10]

I didn't weld my Capt's plate to the frame, don't know if i should have? about the shackle pins, on the one that didn't want to come out i tried to get some rust solve stuff in there and put some heat on the pin and bushing. double nutted nuts on the pin and worked back an forth. finally got it to un-screw with some effort. cleaned out the threads greased and put the new pins in. seems to be no slop in the old bushing. have fun-------

[_mg]

Originally Posted by 61K10

I didn't weld my Capt's plate to the frame, don't know if i should have? about the shackle pins, on the one that didn't want to come out i tried to get some rust solve stuff in there and put some heat on the pin and bushing. double nutted nuts on the pin and worked back an forth. finally got it to un-screw with some effort. cleaned out the threads greased and put the new pins in. seems to be no slop in the old bushing. have fun-------

61K10, do you have pictures of your Captain power steering plate mounted to your truck?

[aotte1]

Agree that the Captains PS Plate does not likely need to be welded as much. How much welding depends likely on how much force is placed on steering from how driven and which wheels/tires.

Les