Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Hinges look good man. Wish I had a sandblaster. I'm re-using my hinge springs, I painted them same gloss black as well. The PO destroyed one hinge so i just bought 2 new ones...

And I like your trans dipstick

No really, mine is stock style, and it's functional, but looks terrible. You can hide yours and/or blend it in so it's not in your face like stock. And really, how often do you ever need access to it so I think your going to like your decision more once you get it finished. I like it to the right of the hoses, but I just finished watching a b!tch!n rides episode, season 4 episode 2 i think, and I noticed they used the same dipstick and mounted it to the engine block. You could probably attach it to the back of the engine head and still have enough access to fill maybe? That would be ideal to hide it. Depends on what you want I guess.

So here are a few pics I took today for you to see space available on my vintage setup. I still have my VA heater hose valve detached. If you mount it close to the firewall, you won't have as much room as I do. I mounted mine down on the inner wheel well so I could attach it to the inner fender well. But I have seen others mount it right up on the firewall. Or you could get crafty, and mount it inside the cab. I have seen others do that, and I would have done this had I thought about it.

Anyways, let me know if this link doesn't work. I didn't want to blast all these on your thread without asking

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cBEcfEfn5gQXdRE89

Wow!! Johnny on the spot with the pics! Very cool... Thanks! I think I like it to the right of the hoses also.

You raise a good point that I am guilty of... posting pictures on someone else’s thread. The way I see it the more the merrier, so post away directly on my thread. I figure if I’m putting it out for everyone to see, it no longer belongs to me. I think you’re right though, I should ask if it’s cool with the threads “owner”... still learning forum etiquette...

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

No sir. Water flows from it without the cap on it.

Well shoot. Must be either heater hose line or bypass of some kind? I'm sure someone will chime in. My old 350 didn't have that port on radiator I don't think. But I never got to see it run either so....

[May70]

Man I love seeing these project threads! A lot of modifications you are doing. Ill probably just end up going with a 350 and maybe ls years down the road when I have partially forgotten how much money I have in my truck. lol

[Leonard1]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Well shoot. Must be either heater hose line or bypass of some kind? I'm sure someone will chime in. My old 350 didn't have that port on radiator I don't think. But I never got to see it run either so....

On the squarebody trucks, the heater core returns directly to the radiator at that port.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by Leonard1

On the squarebody trucks, the heater core returns directly to the radiator at that port.

Interesting. Thanks. I took quite a few pictures of the truck while taking it apart, I'll check those out. I know the LS engines have a steam port, but I'm not sure about the LT's.

[cornerstone]

I bought this sound deadener like 10 years ago for a replica Cobra I built (yes it had an LS1) but sold the car before I installed it. It’s been kicked around the garage and in my way so it feels good to finally have a use for it. I need to get more since only the floor is covered. What kind do you guys like? How much more do you think I’ll need for the doors, firewall, back of cab? I may even add it to the underside of the dash and inside the cowl.

[MDPotter]

I put it on the back of the cab, outside door skins, and will be putting some on the inner door panels. Sound deadener is all the same to me, it's just a bituthene with a foil back. I got mine from Summit.

I actually didn't put any on the floor because the ACC carpet came with a mass backing, but it doesn't hurt to put it on.

[TA_C10]

I used the Kilmat product. 80mil 36sqft = $57 on Amazon. It was comparable to dynamat that the PO already had on the floor. That little box was enough for me to do back of cab, replace missing pieces I cut out of floor, all the way up the firewall, and I still have enough to do my doors. Sounds like the perfect amount for you as well since we both had floors done.

So whatever product you choose, 36sqft will be the right amount.

.

[cornerstone]

Thanks guys.

[notsolo]

I used Rattle trap, 50sqft....and 2 layers of close cell foam all under the dash and up the back....100sq ft...Looks like EZ cool is the closest to what I have.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by notsolo

I used Rattle trap, 50sqft....and 2 layers of close cell foam all under the dash and up the back....100sq ft...Looks like EZ cool is the closest to what I have.

Im guessing there is a difference between closed cell foam and foil backed bituthene? I’ve seen the closed cell stuff at nearly .5” thick, whereas the foil backed butyl stuff seems to all be anywhere from .80 mil (.03”) to 1.57 mil. (.06”).... pardon if my math sucks. I don’t get their advertising, they say it’s 80 mil thick, but apparently that is the equivalent of 3.14 inches. What am I missing here? I understand some of these products are primarily designed for sound reduction and some are primarily heat and cold resistant. It’s my impression that the butyl foil backs stuff is for more for sound reduction, and the thicker closed cell stuff is for insulation...Is that fair to say?

Either way more is better I figure. I followed suit and have another 36 square feet of the “Siless” on the way. If someone can convince me why I need the closed cell stuff I’m all ears.

FedEx had dropped off my new electric fan this afternoon so I got busy and managed to get it fit into my original fan shroud.
Credit goes to board member 71Rat for this mod. It’s from an 03 Jeep Cherokee, and it looks like it could have been straight from the General in 1972. Well, if they even were using electric fans back then... It’s a perfect fit!

[Kronald_70GMC]

Right on man! Keep the progress pics coming.

[TA_C10]

So, the butyl stuff dampens the metal, vibration. The butyl won't burn either so it can take the heat but doesn't really stop it from passing through. That's where the shiny stuff comes in. It's foil backing can do a bit of heat isolation/reflection.

Closed cell foam does 3 things we care about. It absorbs sound. It insulates. It doesn't absorb moisture. Closed cell foam has been used in acoustic rooms for years like radio booths and recording studios. Many other uses too. But you get more sound and heat/cold insulation from the closed cell foam than you do the foil backed butyl.

This is why car manufacturers use only small patches of the butyl stuff(or similar) because they figured out it's main advantage is vibration dampening. You only need it strategically placed to do it's job correctly. Then they focus on insulation under the carpet. The insulation they choose has the same 3 property's that closed cell foam has. Jute padding usually. But some use CC foam too.

Price is our big factor too. While you do get benefit doing the whole floor (not just strategic small spots) with the butyl. Its nothing compared to what closed cell foam can do. But put the two together, and that's Bentley comfort baby

Another way to put it:
Butyl stops the metal vibrations and oil canning.
CC foam absorbs the muffler drone, makes your stereo sound better that it really is, and keeps you comfortable in the winter and the summer doing it.

.

[TA_C10]

Oh, and the math. 3mil is a really good trash bag for the shop(reference).

1mil = .001 inch = household trash bag
3mil = .003 inch = lawn/shop trash bag
20mil = .02 inch = debit card?
80mil = .08 inch = foil backed butyl

80mil is between 1/16" and 1/8", closer to 1/16.

.

[MDPotter]

Is that a variable or 2 speed fan? Are you using the PWM function to run it or did you find a way around that for a high/low function?

From what research I've done, Gen V's are accompanied by fans that have three wires running to them - constant power, ground, and a control wire that comes from the PCM. Is that what you have?

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Is that a variable or 2 speed fan? Are you using the PWM function to run it or did you find a way around that for a high/low function?

From what research I've done, Gen V's are accompanied by fans that have three wires running to them - constant power, ground, and a control wire that comes from the PCM. Is that what you have?

There you go again, revealing my ignorance.

On Gringoloco’s thread, he mentioned the one he went with was a Spectra brand, and it had 2 speeds. I went to hunting the web for that one, and as usual I started price comparison shopping along with seeing who could get it to me the fastest. In the midst of all that I don’t even know which one I bought. If my head wasn’t attached I’d probably walk off and leave it.

I do know the fan has only 2 wires. I tested it with a motorcycle battery and it spun up to speed in a hurry, at the same time the bare ground wire nearly burned through my finger. (Note to self, next time don’t use bailing wire.)

When I get back to the house I’ll look at the harness to see how many wires are designated for the fan. If my memory is right I just remember 1 blue wire for the fan, so if that’s the case would that be a signal wire?

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

So, the butyl stuff dampens the metal, vibration. The butyl won't burn either so it can take the heat but doesn't really stop it from passing through. That's where the shiny stuff comes in. It's foil backing can do a bit of heat isolation/reflection.

Closed cell foam does 3 things we care about. It absorbs sound. It insulates. It doesn't absorb moisture. Closed cell foam has been used in acoustic rooms for years like radio booths and recording studios. Many other uses too. But you get more sound and heat/cold insulation from the closed cell foam than you do the foil backed butyl.

This is why car manufacturers use only small patches of the butyl stuff(or similar) because they figured out it's main advantage is vibration dampening. You only need it strategically placed to do it's job correctly. Then they focus on insulation under the carpet. The insulation they choose has the same 3 property's that closed cell foam has. Jute padding usually. But some use CC foam too.

Price is our big factor too. While you do get benefit doing the whole floor (not just strategic small spots) with the butyl. Its nothing compared to what closed cell foam can do. But put the two together, and that's Bentley comfort baby

Another way to put it:
Butyl stops the metal vibrations and oil canning.
CC foam absorbs the muffler drone, makes your stereo sound better that it really is, and keeps you comfortable in the winter and the summer doing it.

.

Thanks man. I think I’ll get some of the closed cell stuff on order also, because I’m all about Bently comfort.

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

There you go again, revealing my ignorance.

On Gringoloco’s thread, he mentioned the one he went with was a Spectra brand, and it had 2 speeds. I went to hunting the web for that one, and as usual I started price comparison shopping along with seeing who could get it to me the fastest. In the midst of all that I don’t even know which one I bought. If my head wasn’t attached I’d probably walk off and leave it.

I do know the fan has only 2 wires. I tested it with a motorcycle battery and it spun up to speed in a hurry, at the same time the bare ground wire nearly burned through my finger. (Note to self, next time don’t use bailing wire.)

When I get back to the house I’ll look at the harness to see how many wires are designated for the fan. If my memory is right I just remember 1 blue wire for the fan, so if that’s the case would that be a signal wire?

I'm here to learn, and I don't know if the LT fans are 2-speed or variable. I was hoping you could tell me since you're on the cutting edge of C10 swaps here! I bet they're 2-speed though. I was looking at 2016 Camaro SS fans because that's what Mitch is using and it's also a single fan. He has constant power, ground, and a third wire that goes straight to the fan which is the control wire. No relays. Clean setup.

[cornerstone]

...

Originally Posted by MDPotter

I'm here to learn, Same here! and I don't know if the LT fans are 2-speed or variable. I was hoping you could tell me since you're on the cutting edge of C10 swaps here! Lol... no, not me. Aboesec10 and 87Chevy.com are some of the guys who have had running and driving LT’s for a long time now.I bet they're 2-speed though. I was looking at 2016 Camaro SS fans because that's what Mitch is using and it's also a single fan. He has constant power, ground, and a third wire that goes straight to the fan which is the control wire. No relays. Clean setup. Yes I saw that and your right. Very clean. I have the dual fans that came from the 14 Silverado donor and for a long time considered using them, but then I wouldn’t have a shroud.

[cornerstone]

Driveshaft is in. Hats off to the guys at Automotive Driveline Supply in Hurst, Texas... I gave them the measurements and 3 days later it’s done, in spite of a pandemic. Fits like a glove, but I do see lots of cutting and welding in my future.

My air ride bags are installed but not plumbed up and holding pressure. I have some 2x4’s lodged in between the frame and trailing arms in order to raise the truck and have enough room to work under it. Well, the truck is sitting above ride height and I only have like a 1/4 inch clearance between the back of the cab and driveshaft and about the same between the driveshaft and the crossmember. If I were to let the truck down, there would be almost instant contact.

My plan is to continue to do as much pre assembly to the truck with the cab and bed still on the frame, then address this problem. When I do pull the cab off next time, I’m hoping to give everything the final once over. Repaint anything that got missed or scratched, correct the driveshaft issue and check all bolts for proper torque. If I’m lucky I’ll even get the cab painted.

[TA_C10]

Looking good man! Shew that's close. Normally you would be fine but since your bagged, yeah, gonna need some more clearance. What are you thinking your gonna do to resolve?

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Looking good man! Shew that's close. Normally you would be fine but since your bagged, yeah, gonna need some more clearance. What are you thinking your gonna do to resolve?

The only thing I can think of is to pull out the 2x4's currently holding the weight and let it drop to the bump stops (gotta make those too), then cut away what ever is in the space the driveshaft needs to occupy with my trusty plasma cutter. After the driveshaft has about 1/2" clearance at full drop, start the restructuring of the crossmember and the cab sheet metal, if I have to open it up and build a tunnel.

[cornerstone]

Yesterday I installed another 18 square feet of sound deadener, this time it was the “Siless” brand. I used a heater designed for keeping baby chicks warm to pre heat the stuff while I used a heat gun on the metal surface it was to be applied to. It really bonded quite well to the metal, Im thinking it will have a great result with keeping noises out, and keeping Willie Nelson noises in. I still have another 18 feet to install in the doors... I’m hoping to get that solid THUD! when I close the door.

I moved on to the Vintage Air install... something I really am not looking forward to. I’m just not as flexible as I used to be and I’ll often hurt for days after crawling around on my back working up underneath a dashboard. I took the passenger door off the truck and that helped in fitting the evaporator under the dash. It was still a real PIA to get it in there and I’m sure I’ll have to do it a few more times but o well... just another price we will pay to drive one of the most desirable classic trucks in the world I guess. I want to have zero bolts on the firewall that I smoothed out , and the kit calls for 3 bolts to run through it. I’m like to weld some studs on the inside to mount the evaporator, unless someone has a better idea. I do have a question for those of you who have already done this... which hole in the floorboard did you run the drain water out of? The hose provided in the kit will reach 2 different holes in the passenger floor toe board. I like the one farthest off to the left hand side, but I think it will be draining the water onto the back of the wheel well housing if I stick with that location. The other available hole is more in the middle of the toe board, but seems like it will be more easily kicked by passengers there.

[cornerstone]

I also got the dashboard cut and fitted the vent for the heat and air... I used the template they provide and laid down some painters tape before I marked the location to cut. I drilled out the corners first, then since it cut so quickly, I decided to just keep on drilling all the way around. I then used my oscillating tool to connect the dots. Finished up fitment with a file and glad to see the gap between the dash and the vent livable. Others have had large gaps and needed to add filler to close up the distance. Plus I think the dash pad will hide whatever gap is there anyways.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Yesterday I installed another 18 square feet of sound deadener, this time it was the “Siless” brand. I used a heater designed for keeping baby chicks warm to pre heat the stuff while I used a heat gun on the metal surface it was to be applied to. It really bonded quite well to the metal, Im thinking it will have a great result with keeping noises out, and keeping Willie Nelson noises in. I still have another 18 feet to install in the doors... I’m hoping to get that solid THUD! when I close the door.

I moved on to the Vintage Air install... something I really am not looking forward to. I’m just not as flexible as I used to be and I’ll often hurt for days after crawling around on my back working up underneath a dashboard. I took the passenger door off the truck and that helped in fitting the evaporator under the dash. It was still a real PIA to get it in there and I’m sure I’ll have to do it a few more times but o well... just another price we will pay to drive one of the most desirable classic trucks in the world I guess. I want to have zero bolts on the firewall that I smoothed out , and the kit calls for 3 bolts to run through it. I’m like to weld some studs on the inside to mount the evaporator, unless someone has a better idea. I do have a question for those of you who have already done this... which hole in the floorboard did you run the drain water out of? The hose provided in the kit will reach 2 different holes in the passenger floor toe board. I like the one farthest off to the left hand side, but I think it will be draining the water onto the back of the wheel well housing if I stick with that location. The other available hole is more in the middle of the toe board, but seems like it will be more easily kicked by passengers there.

I know what you mean hurting for a couple days. My neighbor and I just pulled 2 twelve hour shifts building a fence this weekend. I won't be worth much this week. And for the drain I went with the center location. That drain line isn't ideal but in the center the passenger feet will typically straddle it for the most part. I have that drop the instructions called for too. I drilled a hole in floorboard so I could squeeze the 90 degree fitting attached to hose and it be super snug. No sealer.

.