72 C10 Build

[Lost in the 60's]

You neighbor must be a metal worker to build those awesome, heavy duty extensions !! Very nice. I think they are overkill for the weight they will hold, but better to go too much than too little...

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

So much awesomeness in here. Great work on the rust repair and the 489 is a hoss! Was that a real Daytona/superbird at the guy's shop that finished the body work and primed it?

That new trailer is sweet but a trailer lift? Dang, I'm up for adoption Dad.

Thanks Ryan, I appreciate it. No, it’s a clone; Chad has that one on the back burner. He had a customer commission one (completed years ago) and started that one, and I think a good start on another IIRC for himself (so you know, “Why build one when you can have two at twice the price….” ).

Ha, I am digging the new trailer for sure. We’re in an HOA and don’t have the space for it outside. Gave me the excuse to try one of these lifts out.

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

You neighbor must be a metal worker to build those awesome, heavy duty extensions !! Very nice. I think they are overkill for the weight they will hold, but better to go too much than too little...

He’s a great neighbor and works for the state's largest metal fab company. He was definitely doing me a solid, literally! I agree, I haven’t had the stones to lift the trailer with a car on it yet, but I’m thinking it would do it.






The C10 Build thread (currently around 10/24) has passed the 67 Camaro Build thread timeline (4/24) by 6 months. Not much is happening with the truck at that time. I’m in line to get it into the body shop.

A quick backstory, Perk’s Customs helped me out with the Camaro’s body and paint, and did an excellent job. As with most shops these days it took a long time (2-1/2 years on and off) with the collision business taking precedence. They've since left their multigenerational collision business of more than 40+ years, leasing the buildings to a national collision chain. They did this to start a new chapter focusing exclusively on customs, restorations, etc. Anything from just body and paint to complete turn-key high-end restomods and trucks. Here are some pics of a cab they’re building from scratch and a '68 Camaro (body & paint only), as well as a '55 Chevy in the background (also built from scratch). That one’s a full build, going on a Speedtech Performance Chassis with the latest supercharged LS variant.

Still wrapping up the '67 Camaro Build thread (4/24). Here are some teaser shots of our Camaro… I finished it last fall, and I’m stoked with how it turned out.

[7dee2]

A few months after the lift and finishing the Maro, I was back messing with the C10’s 489. Pulled the Moroso stuff for some cheater valve covers. I’m finding they don’t fit very well. The stampings don’t leave enough room for factory-style mounting hardware (bolts & spreaders).

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

A few months after the lift and finishing the Maro, I was back messing with the C10’s 489. Pulled the Moroso stuff for some cheater valve covers. I’m finding they don’t fit very well. The stampings don’t leave enough room for factory-style mounting hardware (bolts & spreaders).

Same scenario when I did the 454 in my dually. I picked-up some 'new' chrome valve covers for a slight appearance update under-hood but the hardware (spreaders) wouldn't work. I wound up chroming the OE smooth covers so I could get the look I wanted & use the hardware.

[7dee2]

I’ll try to come up with something. I have two sets of these. My guess is an allen/cap screw or maybe a stud and t-bar setup. I do have a milled-down set of Ansen spacers I could use with some low-profile covers. We'll see what happens.



I'm aiming for a somewhat factory look under the hood (timeless, IMO). Acquired the one-year-only alternator bracket setup and thought I’d mock it up with these taller covers to clear the rocker arms.

[7dee2]

More one year only stuff, I saved these from my '72 K30 build. The C30 RV donor was an original big block truck. That's some genuine vintage crud right there!

[SCOTI]

Relocating that old earth back outside to complete the cycle of life

[Lost in the 60's]

Dang, no more chocolate chip, oatmeal cookies off that sheet...

[Dieselwrencher]

Those big block brackets and pullies sure are getting harder to find. Good hoarding there sir.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Relocating that old earth back outside to complete the cycle of life

Yeah man, just doing my part!

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

Dang, no more chocolate chip, oatmeal cookies off that sheet...

Ha, I’ll tell you what, these things come in dang handy sometimes (mini drip trays..).

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Those big block brackets and pullies sure are getting harder to find. Good hoarding there sir.

Oh yeah, I had the motor mounts, but I’m having to source everything else.




Taking them apart to replace the over 50-year-old inserts.

[Lost in the 60's]

Where do you get replacement inserts for those ????? I've never seen them. Any rubber product we get today isn't going to last anywhere near as long as those did. Keep an eye on the rubber hose connection on the Camaro tank. The new one I bought several years ago is all cracked from age and I haven't driven the car !!!

[7dee2]

Man, I hate the crappy parts these days. So far, so good with the Maro.

It did require some research, but I found the Energy Suspension part# 3.1121. They’re specifically designed for the GM 3-bolt clam shell. Funny, they say online that they don’t fit a 72 C10 BBC.
At this time, the initial fitment was absolutely perfect. My crystal ball into the future of this build is also telling me that they made it through the motor mockup without a problem.

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/3.1121




GM used some great adhesive. I’ll tell you what, the old inserts are really bonded to the lower plates!

[Lost in the 60's]

Ah, OK, urethane replacements. Probably a good choice given the beast they are intended to hold down... I was thinking more inline with rubber replacements. Still old school, I guess.

[7dee2]

You betcha! I usually always replace the rubber motor/trans/body mounts with black poly mounts. I’ve always had good luck and never had a squeaker, unlike some people, I suppose.



Dug this new in-the-box radiator out that I’d originally purchased for our 72 K30 (10/16). Stuffed it away, thinking it might find its home in the C10. Still not sure if I’ll leave it polished or give it a scuff-n-shoot with Eastwood's radiator black. Not planning on much chrome under the hood, so this polished look may be out of place (that was the issue with the K30). Any advice on getting the paint to stick??? Paint peeling off the aluminum is the worst.

[Lost in the 60's]

Look on Eastwood's site. I thought they have/had a light acid etch they sold for prepping aluminum for paint. If not an aluminum cleaner with etch in it should dull the shine and allow paint to stick. I still have a small amount left from when I had semi's, to clean the tanks every spring, after a winter of salt bath.

[7dee2]

That’s a good suggestion, thanks. I’ll go back and look at Eastwood’s site. I’m afraid I’ve just about talked myself out of running it again. It’s a nice piece as is. My endgame may be to sell it to someone who wants a polished radiator. Ha, before I muck it up that is.




Snagged another one of the dual Spal fan and shroud assemblies from Old Air Products (link). I had good luck with a previous one that we ran. Here are some old photos of it being set up on our 72 K30 core support.

https://www.oldairproducts.com/produ...hroud-assembly

I found a new set of fender seals with OE tins from Marketplace. Around the same time, a Hughes converter showed up. When discussing my application with them, I decided to go with the HD low stall (GM5XTM-1) style converter since we are towing with overdrive (T400/GVOD w/600 ft lbs @ 4200 rpm). This might be a mistake given our cam choice (Straub recommended a 2K stall), but I don’t want it stalling in overdrive on the highway. More to come on the gearing choices made.

https://www.hughesperformance.com/xtm-xfm/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...bCFAHag9oFWg-t

[Lost in the 60's]

Interesting reading on the converters. Sounds like a hellofan improvement. I have a TH475 that came in my '69 parts truck. Unusual trans that was only installed in C series trucks for about 18 months in '68-69. Heavier built main case and more clutches that was used in motor homes for more years. The output shaft and corresponding yoke are different from a TH400 and extremely expensive to replace. It can be converted to 400 parts, but I'll probably sell it and have a 2004R that I have built for the '70 instead. I would offer to trade it for the radiator, but shipping would be a biotch...

[7dee2]

I thought so as well. Just hoping the lower stall doesn’t bite me due to the mildly choppy cam. A 200R4 OD trans is an excellent choice IMO.




More stuff for our build!

Grabbed this gauge cluster for the vacuum and 80lb oil pressure gauges. Our engine should have over 60lbs of oil pressure regularly. These pieces will make for a nice tach vac cluster in the future.

OE T400 specific mechanical linkage to replace our T350 stuff that the truck was born with.

Other than pullies, here’s the big block CPP kit for a power steering conversion in our trucks.
https://classicperform.com/shop/6872pspbk-bb

[7dee2]

More parts, this time from Vintage Air. The tariff issue has me a little freaked out, so I’m buying what I need now!

[7dee2]

Here’s me getting ahead of myself. Figured I’d mount the PS reservoir before paint, making sure there was room, right? Didn’t realize months later I’d decide to make this a factory style dual battery truck. The donor truck/RV for our 72 K30 Build was a dual battery, PS truck. Using it as a guide, that would require the washer jar to be relocated to the passenger fender. And the PS reservoir is mounted further back to allow battery space. Oh well, we’ll fill these holes later and keep on trucking!

[7dee2]

Mocking up our accessories.

Originally, I thought I’d try an A6 replacement compressor with OE bracketry, similar to the factory AC truck in my previous post. Vintage Air discouraged this, saying it would rob power, cause constant cycling, and be less efficient. From my experience, that compressor did seem to cycle constantly. So, I’m taking their advice and skipping a hybrid system just for the aesthetics. Yep, it’s going to be pretty ugly to look at.

Loaded the truck on the trailer, it’s almost time….

[7dee2]

Still have the PS to go, these pullies are from Allen Grove (link). https://www.alangrovecomponents.com/Pulleys_2011.htm

Got a load of parts from LMC, including a new AC dash. Our dash was in good shape, but had been cut for a single DIN radio and needed all the AC holes cut. The truck is headed to the body shop and is being mocked up for aftermarket air as well as some firewall work. The decision was made that it would be more cost-effective to R&R the dash and save on body shop hours.

[7dee2]

Big Day! Dropping the truck off at Perk’s Customs.

Here’s a link to a snazzy walk around drop off video that Chris did.

[7dee2]

Found that our driver's side exhaust manifold didn’t fit quite right. Tried another one that fit better, but the issue was that the ARP head bolts were hitting the manifold on this side. Say hello to my little friend, the air grinder made short work of the 2 end spots that needed clearance.

When I’m running exhaust manifolds, I like to use spark plug heat shields. These from Chevy World Parts have the right earlier shape I’m after.

[7dee2]

Didn’t care for some of the supplied hardware, so I made some short flange bolts here and there. These are the Gates belt #’s called for a 72 C10 BBC with AC & PS.