Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[Vic1947]

Thanks everyone for checking in and for all the support. I'm a couple of days away from getting the old eyeball shaved so I'm trying to get as much done as I can. The frame components are 100% ready to go to Sure Coat and my little brother will be here tomorrow with his pickup to take them down to Sedalia when he goes back. He's also going to look after my Dad while I'm down for a day or two with the eye thing.

Originally Posted by roOstersan

Hey Vic, I was curious why you chose to straight cut your frame instead of the Z cut method. I'm in the middle of a LWB to SWB conversion on my '72 c10 (until a torn ACL and Miniscus from an MC accident took me out for a while).

Everything Ive read said the Z cut was a stronger joint, when you add the frame reinforcements in that area of course.

Thanx again for doing such a great documentation of your build, this is me taking notes!

I'd agree that a Z or staggered cut is a bit stronger, Jeremy. That said, I was unsure of what I'd have to do to make the two halves fit together and be straight. Working off a concrete floor is a poor substitute for a steel flat table. I knew going in that the floor slopes to a drain in the middle, so I set up in the flattest part of the shop that was still accessible all around. I lost all the photos I took of the setup, but essentially, I leveled both halves front to back and side to side, picked my spots and cut the ends as square as possible. Had I used a Z cut, it would have added some complexity to the fitment. Not that I couldn't have made adjustments as needed, but there was so much going on in the X, Y, and Z directions already that I chose to simplify it and stick with straight cuts.

I'm hopeful that the top, bottom and side reinforcing plates will be all that's needed to prevent the frame from cracking at the weld joints. By beveling the joints and using the MIG instead of the TIG, I was able to get full weld penetration without excessive heat. These frames are like spring steel and high heat causes the metal to lose its temper, which is why the OEM's discourage welding on them in the first place. But lots of folks do it and if you use some basic techniques to get around the problems, the results should be very sturdy.

One other aspect of this is the powder coating. All the pieces will be coated individually and then assembled. Where the plates and x-members bolt together, the clear powder will bond together like glue. We've observed this on the slip joints on sprint car frames. If the powder is allowed to get in the annular area, it will literally weld the joint together.

[jeh]

Looking good Vic, other than the reinforcing plates you'd never know.

[Low Elco]

As always, the 12'er is at your disposal, Vic. Just let me know so I don't think someone stole it! Hope your eye deal goes well.

[knomadd]

Hey Vic, I know you've just started with the LS swap, but have you determined how you're going to connect the fuel rail to your fuel system? I'm not sure what fitting I want to use to connect the rail on my 6.0 and I'm looking for ideas.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by knomadd

Hey Vic, I know you've just started with the LS swap, but have you determined how you're going to connect the fuel rail to your fuel system? I'm not sure what fitting I want to use to connect the rail on my 6.0 and I'm looking for ideas.

When the time comes, I plan to use AN fittings. If I have a steel line that needs to be taken apart occasionally, I buy a male, steel AN fitting (like a union for instance.) I then part and face it off, then machine the opening to a slip fit for the steel tube. Don't drill all the way thru! Leave a small step so the tube can bottom out when inserted. I've had the best luck using solder to sweat the fitting onto the tube. Just remember you need high heat flux like you'd use for silver soldering. Photo of what I use is attached. I've done this several times for fuel lines. It's sanitary, safe and endlessly reusable.

[Vic1947]

Quick update...

The frame is on the way to the powder coater so I hope to have some glamour shots soon.

My eye is still giving me fits. The doctor ended up using a different approach than what we discussed in his office. After he removed the abnormal layer of skin, he glued and stitched amniotic membrane over the area as planned. But then he had enough of the membrane left to make a patch for the area adjacent to the cuts. He laid the patch in there and then placed a contact lens over it to hold it in place. It will be like that until Monday when it's removed. Meanwhile I can't see anything out of the right eye. In fact, it takes a huge effort just to open it. Mostly I've been taking pain medication and sleeping. Will post up results next week.

[knomadd]

Thanks Vic! Hope you have a speedy recovery.

[swamp rat]

Wow that does not sound like fun, rest easy and give it time to heal, i don't think i'd even bother opening it for a while..

[NewType72]

Yikes work on the eye definitely doesn't sound fun at all, looking forward to a speedy recovery and those new glamour shots of the frame

[jeh]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Quick update...

The frame is on the way to the powder coater so I hope to have some glamour shots soon.

My eye is still giving me fits. The doctor ended up using a different approach than what we discussed in his office. After he removed the abnormal layer of skin, he glued and stitched amniotic membrane over the area as planned. But then he had enough of the membrane left to make a patch for the area adjacent to the cuts. He laid the patch in there and then placed a contact lens over it to hold it in place. It will be like that until Monday when it's removed. Meanwhile I can't see anything out of the right eye. In fact, it takes a huge effort just to open it. Mostly I've been taking pain medication and sleeping. Will post up results next week.

Hang in there Vic for a positive recovery. I've had metal drilled out of my eye so I can't imagine what you have gone through

[roOstersan]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Thanks everyone for checking in and for all the support. I'm a couple of days away from getting the old eyeball shaved so I'm trying to get as much done as I can. The frame components are 100% ready to go to Sure Coat and my little brother will be here tomorrow with his pickup to take them down to Sedalia when he goes back. He's also going to look after my Dad while I'm down for a day or two with the eye thing.

I'd agree that a Z or staggered cut is a bit stronger, Jeremy. That said, I was unsure of what I'd have to do to make the two halves fit together and be straight. Working off a concrete floor is a poor substitute for a steel flat table. I knew going in that the floor slopes to a drain in the middle, so I set up in the flattest part of the shop that was still accessible all around. I lost all the photos I took of the setup, but essentially, I leveled both halves front to back and side to side, picked my spots and cut the ends as square as possible. Had I used a Z cut, it would have added some complexity to the fitment. Not that I couldn't have made adjustments as needed, but there was so much going on in the X, Y, and Z directions already that I chose to simplify it and stick with straight cuts.

I'm hopeful that the top, bottom and side reinforcing plates will be all that's needed to prevent the frame from cracking at the weld joints. By beveling the joints and using the MIG instead of the TIG, I was able to get full weld penetration without excessive heat. These frames are like spring steel and high heat causes the metal to lose its temper, which is why the OEM's discourage welding on them in the first place. But lots of folks do it and if you use some basic techniques to get around the problems, the results should be very sturdy.

One other aspect of this is the powder coating. All the pieces will be coated individually and then assembled. Where the plates and x-members bolt together, the clear powder will bond together like glue. We've observed this on the slip joints on sprint car frames. If the powder is allowed to get in the annular area, it will literally weld the joint together.

I'm also working on an uneven garage floor and am very new to this type of work... But if I have anything on my side, it's time and persistence. And an unhealthy YouTube habit. I planned on doing the z cut with a reinforcement plate and then box the frame in the area of the cut. I'll probably bring in a mobile professional welder just for a little peace of mind. What techniques were you referring to when you spoke about getting around the heat issue? Smaller weld lengths? I would think putting air or mist on the frame rail would make things worse. Just curious as to your thoughts.

Thank you for such an in depth look into your build process. I learn so much from quality builds like this. Best of luck with the eye surgery, we'll keep you in our prayers! Speedy recovery!

Jeremy

[Elliot949]

Wow Vic... I missed reading about the eye Surgery.... I hope Monday goes well for you...

The Frame is looking Great... you will be going together with this truck in no time...

[Vic1947]

Been a few days since my last post. The eye thingy continues to improve. I'm now able to keep my right eye open for short periods and the vision is getting better all the time. After last Thursday's session where they removed the contact lens, tweezed the excess membrane off the surface and reinstalled the contact, I had a couple of tough days. I seem to have turned a corner though and have another appointment tomorrow where I expect they'll take the contact lens out for good. Maybe a few more days to get my eyelid reacquainted with my eyeball and then it should be forward march! Full recovery may be 3-4 months, but I hope to be able to see well enough during that time to work on CRLS.

Jonathon at Sure Coat called on Friday to say my frame pieces are ready, so my brother will be picking them up Monday and delivering all to the house. Will post some photos when I get them. Newstalgia Wheel still doesn't have the rear rims I ordered and has gotten conflicting info from the manufacturer about when they're arriving. I spoke to them a few days ago and if they haven't received the wheels by end of next week, I'm going to switch from the 18" package to the 20's.

I ordered the Style Track accessory drive kit for the LS3 from March Performance. They recommended the PSC remote PS reservoir for the hydroboost, which I've already received. Pretty large unit and may have to mount on the core support but it's very nice. Hope to make some progress on paint and assembly as my recovery allows. Will keep you posted.

[swamp rat]

Glad to hear your making forward progress Vic!

[jeh]

Hang in there Vic, it was nice talking with you yesterday. Anxious to see more progress on your truck once your vision is recovered. Nice looking front runner system also

[Vic1947]

The eye was a bit better today so I sneaked downstairs and started preassembling the frame. Once all the x-members are in and it's been leveled front to back and side to side as well as squared up laterally and vertically, I'll slowly torque all the fasteners while making sure nothing moves. Hopefully it won't fight back too much.

The silver powder coating by Sure Coat turned out very nice (as is usual for them) and should brighten up the underside considerably compared to the black paint. I'm going to have Mike at Precision paint the trailing arms and rear axle housing to match. That will allow me to assemble the suspension... to hopefully coincide with the arrival of the wheel/tire package.

[Jason7121]

Looks awesome great job!

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

The eye was a bit better today so I sneaked downstairs and started preassembling the frame. Once all the x-members are in and it's been leveled front to back and side to side as well as squared up laterally and vertically, I'll slowly torque all the fasteners while making sure nothing moves. Hopefully it won't fight back too much.

The silver powder coating by Sure Coat turned out very nice (as is usual for them) and should brighten up the underside considerably compared to the black paint. I'm going to have Mike at Precision paint the trailing arms and rear axle housing to match. That will allow me to assemble the suspension... to hopefully coincide with the arrival of the wheel/tire package.

All I can say Vic is WOW!!!!... Fricking AWESOME!!!! Great Choice on the Chassis...

Might I suggest going with a little darker shade of silver/grey for a great contrast and to make it all pop real good... just a thought...

[jeh]

Awesome work as usual Vic. Glad your eye is doing good

[snipescastle2]

Wow! Looks great Vic!
Ben

[sduckworth13]

Very nice work Vic! Looks great, glad your able get some things done with the limited vision.

[Low Elco]

Glad to see you're improving and back in the saddle. Frame looks great!

[Bennett68C10]

Wow Vic, that frame looks great I really like the silver powdercoat. Glad to hear your recovering from the eye issue too!

[knomadd]

Glad to see your eye is healing and you're back on CRLS. Looks good!

[mcbassin]

Powdercoat looks great!