Project Vitamin C-10

[ruffrida2005]

that set up looks good. I wonder if it mounts on top or bottom of the upper frame rail. I like that one better then the CPP.

Alan have you tried the driver side? JW

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

if you cant get the headers you want and you find some that the stock perch would let fit let me know.

I will

Originally Posted by 198plus

Alan do you think the problem your having is a result of moving the engine forward...........Buy moving it forward the frame narrows.....And on the perches, that style Sticks up to much at top where header tube needs to be......Just a thought.

I'm going to try these...........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1963-...item56379a98d8

That's 90 % of the problem. But if I move it back to original location my valve covers won't clear and dist gets closer to the cab. I think I have a plan of attack. I'm going to wait and see what CPPJeff has to say first.

Thanks for the link. Those might have been a better choice.

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Alan have you tried the driver side? JW

No, didn't even try it. The headers Lt/Rt are made the same.

I did find these headers for a S-10. Hedman Hedders 69539 LINKY

It has this caption in the pic.

Image is a representation of this part. Actual part may vary

[greg65]

Have you looked at Early Classics mid length headers? I know you are having a time with this issue.

[sdailey]

Alan,

I looked at Jeg's for the Hedman Headers listed above and it shows a different picture than what you posted.

Here's a link to them.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tial&Ntt=69539


Hopefully Jeff can give some insight today about which ones work best with their motor mounts.


Good luck.

[rideblue00]

Heres a link to a header builder. They will send you a fixture to mock up what you need. Then you send it back and they make the headers. It may be expensive, but sometimes you may not be able to buy pre-made ones. I have been following your build thread since you started it. You have inspired many, including me and my 66 Chevy. Your fab work is exellent. Fabbing work is not easy.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by rideblue00

Heres a link to a header builder. They will send you a fixture to mock up what you need. Then you send it back and they make the headers. It may be expensive, but sometimes you may not be able to buy pre-made ones. I have been following your build thread since you started it. You have inspired many, including me and my 66 Chevy. Your fab work is exellent. Fabbing work is not easy.

I again feel honored that you used your first post in my build. Glad to be an inspiration. Thanks for the link. Thanks for the comments. It's a great motivational tool that keeps us all going.

Great news. I sold my headers (flowtechs) for what I paid for them.

[Strodder]

That company is very impressive. I watched the video, and went to see the price. It almost knocked me off my chair. Looks like it might be a over kill for you. There must be a better way.

[rideblue00]

Whoops forgot to add the link: http://www.stainlessheaders.com/index.aspx

[Senator350]

just found your build thread searching google for '60 impala dash. nice build!!!

i had a header issue with stainless headers on my '66 327ci in my '69 K10.

step one: buy a pair of plain steel headers in the style you want (looks like you prefer long tube)

step two: take a picture of the clearance issue(s)

step three: bring the headers to your local welding shop

step four: pick up your headers and have them coated locally

i had three tubes modified... two curves added, a tube lengthened. i did the finish grinding and pollishing. came out perfect

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Senator350

just found your build thread searching google for '60 impala dash. nice build!!!

i had a header issue with stainless headers on my '66 327ci in my '69 K10.

step one: buy a pair of plain steel headers in the style you want (looks like you prefer long tube)

I'm actually wanting shortys. BTW thanks for the comments.

Got the bed mocked up waiting for the fuel tank to show up so I can get the side fill figured out. I've still got alot of work to get it ready for paint. I was tinkering with it a little at a time at work when I was slow. Been busy for the past month at work. Thanks Shannon for helping me get the header panel in the bed.

[Strodder]

That's a good idea. I wonder how it would work out doing it to a step side. I really don't like the idea of putting the gas fill in the bed. Stay tuned. My work load might ease up, and I'll start working on the truck again.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

That's a good idea. I wonder how it would work out doing it to a step side. I really don't like the idea of putting the gas fill in the bed. Stay tuned. My work load might ease up, and I'll start working on the truck again.

I've seen a few step sides with side fill. I don't like the ones in the bed either. I've been missing your progress.

Here's another attempt at doing the line from the pump to the carb. I made some mistakes, but got it done. I might redo it to clean it up a little.

Split the new pump apart to rotate the outlet.



Fittings installed.





I used a coat hanger for a template. I don't know how to accurately figure the radius of the bend. I made a bend in scrap and cut it off to help figure the bend.



Here is the bend lined up with the coathanger.



Done. I just hand bent the line off the carb to clear the heater hose outlet.

[jgh64pkup]

whats the filler neck out of

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

whats the filler neck out of

Older Ranger. It is a square door to match the square body style of the truck.

[jgh64pkup]

umm do you think my dad will miss his fuel filler neck off of his 99 ranger

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

umm do you think my dad will miss his fuel filler neck off of his 99 ranger

Probably not. Just another leak on a Furd..

[Strodder]

You knew that had to be coming.

[MacAttack]

Oh Man, that fuel intake system is off the hook - F*#d or not.

Great detail pictures on the bendy routine, Alan. Just outstanding.

Mac.

[scotts62]

Hey that looks pretty slick, nice work

[ruffrida2005]

Looks good Alan. I like the fuel pump I have. it has the inlet and outlet on opposite sides. you know the one you posted by mistake

[64Fugly]

That looks very nice and clean Alan.

[my67chevytruck]

Alan,
is that stainless line? did you flare you own ends? i attempted this as well but could not find the proper connections, so i still have rubber to connect the line to the fittings. can you share the sizes, parts #, and vendor when you have some free time. It looks 100% better the way you ran it.
keep up the great work.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Looks good Alan. I like the fuel pump I have. it has the inlet and outlet on opposite sides. you know the one you posted by mistake

Thanks Paul, and yes I remember the one I posted by mistake.

Originally Posted by 64Fugly

That looks very nice and clean Alan.

Thanks, it's not bad for a rookie.

Originally Posted by MacAttack

Oh Man, that fuel intake system is off the hook - F*#d or not.

Great detail pictures on the bendy routine, Alan. Just outstanding.

Mac.

Thanks Mac, glad you liked them

Originally Posted by scotts62

Hey that looks pretty slick, nice work

Thanks Scott, someday I will get it. It took too much time to bed that little line.

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

Alan,
is that stainless line? did you flare you own ends? i attempted this as well but could not find the proper connections, so i still have rubber to connect the line to the fittings. can you share the sizes, parts #, and vendor when you have some free time. It looks 100% better the way you ran it.
keep up the great work.

Thanks Heath. It is 3/8" stainless line, I did flare the ends. The problem is, is that the flare tool that was loaned to me by Shannon flares a 45* beautifully. The AN fittings are a 37*. My question is will they seal up? I believe as it is tightened down it might, but stainless is hard. But then again it's only 7psi or so. The 37* tool that I have (summit's) will not flare the stainless. It is awesome, but don't know how much it is just yet. It's made by rigid. He is going to check at his work to see if they have a 37* flare tool. Here is a pic of 2 of the fittings for now I will get pics of the others plus the tool shortly. Wait a minute Shannon has the flare tool with him. Hey Shannon post up a pic please and PN of the flare tool. BTW Thanks

These fittings are 3/8"NPT-6AN



Not a good pic of the -6AN line nuts and sleeves, but I will get them for you.

[jsmithbm]

It took me all day to bend my fuel line from the pump to carb. I think i will redo it before i put the new motor in, i want to have a fuel psi guage near the carb. Great progress Alan.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jsmithbm

It took me all day to bend my fuel line from the pump to carb. I think i will redo it before i put the new motor in, i want to have a fuel psi guage near the carb. Great progress Alan.

Thanks Joel. Any time I learn something that looks easy usually proves me wrong. You gonna post any pics of your progress?

Here is a pic of the flare tool. It worked like a dream on stainless. No marks or slippage. No wrenches required. They run around $100. The 45* PN is 458R and the 37* PN is 377 Here is a link to Rigid.com. Thanks Shannon for the info.



Here is the other tubing nuts and sleeves.

Jegs PN's