'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[Frizzle Fry]

Here's the extent of the previous bondo job:

Originally Posted by Kristian j

When you did take that front end away, I suppose you noticed the "shelf" at the end of the wing, just below the windshield. The serious rost spot on that body. Mud and gore stay there and the front wing rust from the inside. I usually put an inner ving on my cars to solve that problem. But maybe you live in a dry climate.

This is the spot you are talking about. It had a rubber seal/dam riveted in place that I removed:


This area has haunted me ever since I discovered it. I knew it would be a nightmare to clean/seal. Well, I spent a good 5hrs cleaning and sealing the inside of this fender, including that area. The extra access afforded by the removed fender section forced me to do it now.

Here you can also see the fender rolling I had done previously vs. the new un-rolled section:


Same with the inside of the donor section (zinc primer on the joint edges)


But first, how I determined where to cut the donor part:








Free at last. This pic was actually taken to show the spot welds that had to be drilled out with a spot weld bit:


Test fit, trim, fit, trim, fit, trim, fit, trim...


Inverted fender roll:














Test fit grille:


So the fun part is done

[65Pickup]

Wow your insane, hard to believe you don't do that for a living!!! Very impressive, and a great save.

[Kristian j]

Found this photo taken 10 years ago in my garage
Recognice the car?

[mcbassin]

Awesome work on the fender section and re-fit! very insightful to say the least.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 65Pickup

Wow your insane, hard to believe you don't do that for a living!!! Very impressive, and a great save.

Thanks man I think a lot of the pros would usually do a lap joint.

Originally Posted by Kristian j

Found this photo taken 10 years ago in my garage
Recognice the car?

Looks vaguely familiar Car was not fully stripped down and survived the rotisserie? Shows how rigid these unibody's are.

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Awesome work on the fender section and re-fit! very insightful to say the least.

Thanks bud!

[Kristian j]

Interesting coincidence!

The Minx has now been taken out into the sun from a 10 year old hibernation.
The funny thing is, I have also tried to changed a part of the front wing then. Notice the not-so-clever result. Notice the difference between the amateur (me) and the skilled one (Frizzle". I will make a new try.

The wing has met a truck, but obviously the body is reasonable strong. It did only wrinkle the front part.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Kristian j

I have also tried to changed a part of the front wing then. Notice the not-so-clever result.

That's not so bad. It looks better than what was hiding under mine. At least you tried. That's more than 99% of people out there would have done. If you try again just take your time. It will be easier to fit the new panel if you cut perpendicular and/or parallel to body lines and contours. The horizontal cut can be made under the trim.

[Frizzle Fry]

Latest pics (you can't rush perfection ) Not done - Just wanted to give you the latest since it's been a few days:

[Frizzle Fry]

Here's the evolution of metal finishing the top of the fender. This process used three tools: Hammer/Dolly, Flat file, DA. That was the basic order of operations; Since the joint was mostly low I gradually raised it.

1. Check for low spots and knock down weld peaks with a flat file
2. Raise low spots via body hammer
3. Erase file marks with a DA
4. Repeat

A couple of pits required filling:


Top done (except that little dent near the front - I'm keeping it )


Grille Surround:






Done:

[Frizzle Fry]

Next up was filling all those factory holes in the floor. Most of them are about 1" dia. and had metal plugs. Must have been for locating in the stamping process..?

Making the disc blanks. Hart_Rod should take note that I've moved on from using washers




Then while preparing the areas for welding I got into the groove of cleaning the floorboards (ADD kicked in) and I just went with it.

I hear hand-scraped floors are choice these days:












I hand scraped them because the factory goo was so thick in places the it filled the floor contours. It made too big a mess with the wire-wheel. Now that the majority is removed I'll hit it with the power tools.

[dammitmitchell]

you diddnt dry ice and scrape?

[sparkydog]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I reclined the bases to within a milliradian of what felt correct via butt-gauge (insert related jokes here).

Your butt-gauge better have good resolution and repeatability if you want to measure to milliradians! How often is it calibrated?

(Sorry I had to make some technical humor. Nerd out )

[mcbassin]

Super job grafting the new fender piece. You are getting close. Are you going to paint it yourself?
Posted via Mobile Device

[76C10Stepside]

Nice work as always. Since it's a British car, aren't you OBLIGATED to fill with LEAD???

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by dammitmitchell

you diddnt dry ice and scrape?

Not familiar with that. I know about dry ice blasting

Originally Posted by sparkydog

Your butt-gauge better have good resolution and repeatability if you want to measure to milliradians! How often is it calibrated?

It's self calibrating

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Super job grafting the new fender piece. You are getting close. Are you going to paint it yourself?
Posted via Mobile Device

So close! Yet so many little loose ends to tie up I am going to boot it out of the shop soon. Taking it to get blasted. The seam sealer I've already put down shouldn't be affected. If it is oh well. Then it will either come back to my shop for a few last touches or go to the paint shop. I am in discussions with a painter who will allow me to assist and learn

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

Nice work as always. Since it's a British car, aren't you OBLIGATED to fill with LEAD???

Right! I actually have a lead-free body solder kit from Eastwood. Hopefully I don't need much filler on this car.

[Kristian j]

Next up was filling all those factory holes in the floor.

But,but, then the water will not disappear

[Frizzle Fry]

Is that the idea? So you can hose it out? Or do they have that little faith in the seals? Plus they were all sealed up with plugs covered in goo.

[Kristian j]

The "goo" underseal, isn't that supposed to be under the car? And it is supposed to be rubber plugs!
Anyway. After the family has been on the sunday trip in the rainy British countryside the driver (the father usually) says:

Remove your plugs and let the water out

[-Greg72]

Looks great!

If you can stand the smell, Brakeleen will remove that residual asphalt goo really well....

I usually buy brake cleaner by the case, just be careful of the fluid soaked rags. A few sparks from a grinder or flap disc and you've got real problems.



(not that I'd know anything about that).


-G
Posted via Mobile Device

[Kristian j]

I suppose you have a appropriate rev-counter for the dashboard?
Or are you going to redesign everything with modern dials?

[Sub-versive]

Killer work as usual Mike! Work of art!

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by Kristian j

I suppose you have a appropriate rev-counter for the dashboard?
Or are you going to redesign everything with modern dials?

OH,he has dials that have dials that are driven by dials. And I'm not being funny! Somewhere there are pictures of the old dials, the new dials, the connectors, and the intermediate dails.

On another note, what is uncertainty of your butt-gauge? Is it NIST traceable? Certifications? Can you tell I work in a calibration lab?

[mcbassin]

So close! Yet so many little loose ends to tie up I am going to boot it out of the shop soon. Taking it to get blasted. The seam sealer I've already put down shouldn't be affected. If it is oh well. Then it will either come back to my shop for a few last touches or go to the paint shop. I am in discussions with a painter who will allow me to assist and learn

That's cool the painter will let you work with him on it. This is a pretty small car you guys should be able to knock it out quick. Looking forward to updates. One of my favorite builds on this site.

[Kristian j]

Now there is a cylinder head where the heater is supposed to be. No heater then?



And that odd looking no-Rootes engine........I agree that it's stronger, more powerful, uses less petrol, less exhaust emissions, will go forever,......but exept that...

[Kristian j]

Stop Press!! Have found about the dashboard #419
Forget what I said....

But on the other hand, I have the oil presure, water temp. Am-meter in a typical-for-that-period cromed gauge-holder so I can have that big rev-counter.