05-23-2015, 05:08 PM | #1776 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Junction Block & Positive Battery Cable
then I visited this '73 where I thought I could score the radiator core support, it looked all shinny and black, I was guessing the truck was recently repaired in the front, but... only to remove every bolt but one, you guessed it the rusty one under the battery tray in the bottom lowest corner, that's when I realized that although all the metal is there, the lip in the corner is paper thin, the rust has already gotten to it, so I passed on it, although unscrewing all those 50 screws was hecka fun
I did walk away with this junction block, but Greg we didn't realize you needed one? Well I sorta drove the truck to work with the wiring harness loosened up from the firewall and I smelled plastic burning on the way home, and then I found out it was my old junction block melting on the ol' exhaust manifold I also picked up a proper Positive Battery Cable ($2.50) with a RED terminal, I wich the entire cable was red, but I will settle for at least a red tip, that way if the wifey has to jump start me one day she won't cross the jumper cables |
05-23-2015, 05:12 PM | #1777 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
so yeah, six parts how ever small they may be I only paid $10.05 and had a fun scavenger hunt at what I call the Adventure Theme Parking Lot
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05-23-2015, 05:30 PM | #1778 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Awh, sh1t, I didn't know you were looking for that clutch spring. I'm nearly certain I have one in my parts bin I could have shipped you.
I notice your battery cable is for a side terminal battery. I know GM used the side terminals a lot, but in my opinion, they're crap compared to a top terminal. When the corrosion starts on the side terminal, it's hidden by the wire and you're not aware of it. Not so with the top terminal, and the connection surface area seems larger too.
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Greg 64 GMC Suburban - 283, NV3500, 14 bolt 77 C10 swb - 292, SM465, 12 bolt |
05-23-2015, 05:40 PM | #1779 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
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05-23-2015, 05:49 PM | #1780 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
My friend I hate those things with a passion, they get stripped, they are terrible for jumper cables, I hate them more than you. I may be thinking of a conversion to top terminals at some point, but I just bought that battery brand new and it don't have both and top terminals just the lame side ones.
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05-23-2015, 06:24 PM | #1781 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
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Greg 64 GMC Suburban - 283, NV3500, 14 bolt 77 C10 swb - 292, SM465, 12 bolt |
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05-23-2015, 06:48 PM | #1782 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
considerin' these ugly spark plug wire booties for my too close to the headers problem, saw this pic on Craigslist today - please don't let me do it, they are ugly as heck
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05-23-2015, 07:06 PM | #1783 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
They may be ugly but they work. I run a set on my 454. Only need them for 2 wires but it looks dumb unless it's a complete set on the engine. Also they look a bit better if they are not that tan color. I went with black ones.
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1977 Chevrolet C/10 Silverado. Step-Side, Factory 454, TH400, 3.73 Posi 12 Bolt. 1975 Chevrolet El Camino. 350, TH400, 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt. |
05-23-2015, 08:45 PM | #1784 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Thanks for the pics Gregski, very clean install BTW
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05-23-2015, 09:45 PM | #1785 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
You sure did a good job, I wouldn't begin to know how to do all that! Al
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05-23-2015, 10:05 PM | #1786 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Congrats on the score. Now find me a core support as well. Good luck. Mines not only rusty but bent as well......
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05-23-2015, 10:27 PM | #1787 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
I buy those braided heat thingies individually, take the ring out of them, and use them as a "TIG Finger" for welding.
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05-23-2015, 11:40 PM | #1788 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful. |
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05-24-2015, 12:07 AM | #1789 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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Or maybe I just ned to use larger female spade terminals? |
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05-24-2015, 01:30 AM | #1790 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
If you have the 12004267 plastic housing the Packard 56 Female terminals are easy to find.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful. Last edited by hatzie; 05-24-2015 at 01:39 AM. |
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05-24-2015, 02:37 AM | #1791 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
For the battery side terminals, I used two brass side post adapters with the studs on the back, but I used the ones for the double-wire setup, so they are longer on the battery end. I screw it through the cable so it just dead-ends in the battery, to catch all the threads, then tighten a nut down onto the cable. The studs off the back side give me something to connect accessories to, as well as jumper cables. I should have a picture here somewhere.
Here it is. I cut the ring off that held the old clamp bolt captive. The yellow residue is from some 3M weatherstrip adhesive I used to glue a cap on it at one point. But you can see how the clamping bolt is not all the way down, there is a nut clamping the cable. This is the part you want. Note the "LONG" in the description. That is because some GM side post setups had TWO cables on one clamp. http://optimatrays.com/viewitem.php?type=accessory&id=5 Anyway, this way you engage *all* of the threads in the battery, and won't strip it, and those big hexes are a lot easier to deal with than the small ones.
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05-24-2015, 07:25 AM | #1792 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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05-24-2015, 07:31 AM | #1793 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
the new gauge cluster circa 1979 does have a seat belt light under the tachometer |
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05-24-2015, 01:12 PM | #1794 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Sunday Morning
to the tune by Maroon 5 Sunday morning, truck is calling Spin some wrenches, scrape some skin Clouds are shrouding us in moments unforgettable You twist to fit the part that wont go in But things just get so crazy, fixing rust gets hard to do And I would gladly hit the road, get up and go if I could That someday it would bring me back to you That someday it would take me back to you That may be all I need In darkness, my truck is all I see Come and test your skills with me Driving slow on Sunday morning And I never want to leave Fingers trace your every outline Paint your body with my hands Back and forth we sway like branches in a storm Change the weather (stripping), hold together where it bends That may be all I need In darkness, my truck is all I see Come and test your skills with me... |
05-24-2015, 01:25 PM | #1795 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - 74 & 78 Printed Circuit Boards
today we hope to complete the 74 => 78 gauge cluster swap
below for high level comparison I included a picture of the old 74 printed circuit board (top pic) and below it a picture of the old 78 printed circuit board the idea is to just give you an idear that they is different, we do not expect you to use these fotos to trace and compare the actual circuits also this is what they look like to Superman ie if you could see through the blue housing this is what they look like facing you the way the gauges face you naturally, I find that when you turn the cluster over and are looking at the back side, things are super confusing because right is left and left is west, you git the idear |
05-24-2015, 02:52 PM | #1796 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. ~ Abraham Lincoln and so we prepare and prepare for this cluster surgery, just tracing these boards on paper and making these drawings was a great exercise to acclamate to what lies ahead I present to you the Anti Schematic Wiring Schematics Pic 1 - 1974 gauge cluster with mechanical oil gauge absent tachometer Pic 2 - 1978 gauge cluster with electronic oil gauge with tachometer |
05-24-2015, 03:28 PM | #1797 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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05-24-2015, 03:40 PM | #1798 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Thanks, so in '74 there is no 6 prong bar, that came later? I don't have one so I don't know if I am missing one or it never had it, thanks
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05-24-2015, 03:49 PM | #1799 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
took my time and removed and labeled every single wire from the gauge cluster connector plug
here they colorphabliclly Light Green - Hi Beam Light Bulb Gray - Five Cluster Illumination Lights Black - Ameter Black with White Stripe - Ameter Pink - Positive Switched Ignition Power Tan with Black Stripe - Brake Light Bulb Tan - Fuel Gauge Dark Green - Water Temp Gauge Black - Ground for Water Temp, Cluster Lights, Fuel Gauge Dark Blue - Right Turn Signal Light Bulb Light Blue - Left Turn Signal Light Bulb Dark Blue - will be Oil Pressure Gauge once installed |
05-24-2015, 04:26 PM | #1800 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Fuse Box
now we're playing with Power, no literally we're actually playing with... ah you get the joke
now Greg why in the world did you tear up this fuse box panel thing two reasons: 1. We had to A. castrate the dangerous Ameter wire(s) and B. graft the new Electric Oil Pressure wire 2. I was curious how all this wiring works and what's behind the fuse box, because starring at wiring diagrams just gives me a headache |
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