Make it handle

[jjzepplin]

Originally Posted by suville

Been searchin for this.... a link would sure help if ya could Thanks

Here you go.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=my+castor+mod

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

I had a great time out there. Turns out I cooked a spark plug. No biggie. Thanks for inviting me out and making me feel welcome. As most of you know, we moved from So-Cal to East Tennessee last year, and we are just starting to make new friends. The guys and gals from the Upstate S.C. Chevy Truck Club are the real deal. Great bunch of people who love their Chevy Trucks. Thanks again.

Was great to meet you Saturday, I've been following this post a long time and it's helped tremendously. I was waiting in line for a ride along and asked you about bumpsteer with the PB forward/narrowed arms and your rack kit- appreciate the answers. Looking forward to seeing you at Goodguys later this year!

Here's what I've put together with help from this thread. I'll be starting on the rear soon, I'm leaning towards a three link and a floating 9".

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by suville

Been searchin for this.... a link would sure help if ya could Thanks

I did my caster mod like Rob did his. Mine was a bit less though:

[jjzepplin]

Looks like the ball joint came inside a bit as well. Interesting. How does that affect angles?

[tinydb84]

I did move it in just a hair. I don't like having a ton of spacers on the UCA so this should remove a few when I get it aligned.

I will result in slightly less camber gain when the suspension compresses. I am not looking for the ultimate performance so I am not too concerned with it.

[Paul Y]

Rob,

Just wanted to let you know that fitted your from and rear ARB's and Doetsch shocks and have to say the transformation is phenomenal! EArlier in the thread you mention boxing and bracing the chassis, could you elaborate slightly on the bracing? Having difficulties visualising where the cross bracing goes.

Also... Your customer service is to be recommended, thanks for sorting out the short shipment so promptly and apologise for not thanking you earlier.

P.

[70blackfish]

HI, I have a question, i have read some of the 70 plus pages here,
But my question is, have you guys found the limit to the 12 bolt rear axle with
c clips, how much HP and Rear tire will it hold in a G type of set up?
6.4 500hp hemi

[70blackfish]

this thing goes pretty good now and i don't drive slow, i hit the canyon pretty good. stock suspension with air bags and 1 1/4 front sway bar. disk up front
29/15/15 rear tires, Viking double adjust shocks in the rear kyb up front.
I fear wheel studs might break and my rear tire and rim will pass me, or the c clip tip will break and the same thing will pass me......

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

I know this guy is running the stock rearend with a supercharged 406 SB with nitrous. He carries the Dyno printout with him at the car shows and claims he is past the 800 HP mark with a single hit of NOS. He's more of a straight line kind of guy though, I don't know if he's into driving the curves. There are several companies now that offer direct replacement 9" and Dana 60's. Currie and DTS (Drive Train Specialists) are a couple.

[Bowtiguy]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

Here you go.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=my+castor+mod

I plan to use this method to get my lower A-arms a bit more forward.

question is: can I set the upper A-arms back with in the stock adjustment range ( threads showing on the rear of the shaft) to get additional caster ?


---OR--- does it NEED to be centered???

$2k for ridetech A-arms and coilovers just isn't in the budget at this time. I spent all my $$$ at NLE!

[chevyc10lover]

https://www.facebook.com/interesting...nch_main_video

it is not a truck suspension but most of the info can be used to understand basic suspension.
they are already explained in the thread but it doesn´t hurt to watch..

[sama lama]

Has anyone tried rear springs moog 6381. They have a free length of 14.34 a spring rate of 198lbs.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

OK, I'm going to vent. Geometry class was offered for FREE at almost EVERY high scholl in the country. Why is it that NOBODY went to class?
Get out a piece of paper and draw a triangle. It's OK, I'll wait. . . . . .. . . .. . . good. Now we know that a tiangle has THREE sides, and ALL sides connect. So, take your pencil and make ONE side of your triangle LONGER. . . . . . . . . To get the other side to connect, you have TWO options. 1. Change the length and angle of the connecting side. - or 2. Change ALL THREE angles of the triangle. OK, my breathing is getting better. So, why is this a big deal? A-Arms ARE TRIANGLES!!!!!! I spent four hours today aligning an IFS for this poor guy. He has a great looking, and untill today, terrible driving 57 chev p/u. Whats the problem? It has a "really cool" IFS on it. and the upper A-Arm (triangle) has F$%C!N ROD ENDS in it for the alignment adjustment. So, You unscrew them to get the camber out to spec, and the center distance gets longer. I guess the manufacturer just wants you to tighten the bolts and bend the A-Arm, OK. But, as I get close to the manufacturers spec alignment (-1/2* camber, +2* caster) the rod ends are maxed out and binding as I tighten the bolts. Again, I cuss like a sailer. People buy this crap? - Oh yeah, geometry class. So, to get it in spec, (actually went to +4* caster, like a real car built after the invention of radial tires) I had to heat and bent the A-Arms to get them properly aligned, without binding. They used to be powder coated a nice silver color, but, no more. Now, the customer is thrilled, its been two years before he found someone who could properly align his truck. And, at the moment he doesn't care about the burned powder coat. Please be aware of this DESIGN FLAW. It is common to a few IFS kits. To be fair to all, I will not name names. Some of you DID go to class, and now that I have pointed this out, I'm sure it makes sense to you. If any of the manufacturers of these types of IFS kits need a private lesson, please contact me at the shop, or, make an appointment to come buy, and I'll give you private instruction on our shop chalkboard. I am doing my best to keep this professional, please do the same. I just want to help educate the members. People throw down a lot of money to play with these trucks, it's up to us to keep the quality and safety up to par. Ahh, my blood pressure is dropping. One more Fat Tire should do the trick.

Haha, found this pic of your Hellboy truck on StreetTrucks... is that what you were venting about?

[LS short box]

New to the site. Just bought very nice 70 swb frame and running gear.
I removed the cab and box brackets prior to frame sand blasting. I've gotten good at removing rivets!

I'm going to lower it most likely 5/3.5.

Question. Is it any benefit to the track bar frame mount a bit forward so it's more perpendicular to the rear end?

I know I will need a new longer adjustable panhard bar.

Thanks

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by LS short box

New to the site. Just bought very nice 70 swb frame and running gear.
I removed the cab and box brackets prior to frame sand blasting. I've gotten good at removing rivets!

I'm going to lower it most likely 5/3.5.

Question. Is it any benefit to the track bar frame mount a bit forward so it's more perpendicular to the rear end?

I know I will need a new longer adjustable panhard bar.

Thanks

I think it should be closer to parallel to be effective...

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Haha, found this pic of your Hellboy truck on StreetTrucks... is that what you were venting about?

Those upper arms on Hell Boy are designed so that when the "legs" are made shorter or longer the ends can pivot so that the angle at the corner of the triangle changes.

I think he is taking about something like these:
Since the "legs" are welded to the boll joint mount, that end cannot pivot to change the angle at that corner of the triangle. They can be adjusted to a point before the ball in the rod end binds up, they are limited to the angle of defection of the ball in the rod end. Once it binds up, then the leg will need to be heated and bent to fee up the rod end...



Since the "legs" are welded to the boll joint mount, that end cannot pivot to change the angle at that corner of the triangle. They can be adjusted to a point before the ball in the rod end binds up, they are limited to the angle of defection of the ball in the rod end. Once it binds up, then the leg will need to be heated and bent to fee up the rod end...

[LS short box]

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I will continue to drill more rivets.

Another question. I've been looking at Mike Hickmans C10 build in regards to frame bracing. Looks like he did a far amount of X-bracing as apposed to frame boxing. Also welding triangular plates across stock cross members.

Any opinions? Good or not.

Thanks

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I will continue to drill more rivets.

Another question. I've been looking at Mike Hickmans C10 build in regards to frame bracing. Looks like he did a far amount of X-bracing as apposed to frame boxing. Also welding triangular plates across stock cross members.

Any opinions? Good or not.

Thanks

Mike's truck was built at Hotchkis' tech center, I'm sure they did their homework. The X-bracing is a great way to add rigidity, yet keep the weight low. During that time, his truck was on the leading edge of when the aftermarket really took off for these trucks.
There are several products out since, such as the Porterbuilt Inner Frame Stiffener ( http://pbfab.com/shop/inner-frame-stiffener ) that really helps to get a head start on fabricating. I wish these were available at the time I built my truck! It may seem expensive at first, but when you figure up material cost, fab and engineering time saved, it's a pretty economical piece.

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by GEARBOXGARAGE

There are several products out since, such as the Porterbuilt Inner Frame Stiffener ( http://pbfab.com/shop/inner-frame-stiffener ) that really helps to get a head start on fabricating. I wish these were available at the time I built my truck! It may seem expensive at first, but when you figure up material cost, fab and engineering time saved, it's a pretty economical piece.

I started a thread on the one I am building: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=678801

I still have quite a bit to add to it. I did a SFBD on mine but if I hadn't I would really consider going with Porterbuilt. I will have less money into mine but the amount of time I put into it would make Porterbuilt's cheaper (and of course theirs is much nicer).

[HellaciousA]

Is there a noticeable improvement in handling by diong a 4 link as compared to running the stock trailing arm setup on a 70 c10 and relocating the shocks/adding an aftermarket panhard rod?

I'm having trouble trying to decide which route to take. I'm planning to get the no limit rear rail kit and wide ride IFS up front. Just don't want to go totally broke getting the suspension/brakes dialed in.

I know I could save substantially by re-using the stock differential, as it would likely be easier to just upgrade to a moser 9" when running the 4-link. Anyone have any experience with going this route?

[BigDan3131]

Hi Rob,

So after reading much of the thread most of it is dedicated to the later model 67 up trucks. I recently finished the paint and body work on my 1965 GMC Longbed 3/4 ton truck and while I do not plan to race it I want it to handle better than it came from the factory. I plan to keep the 8 lugs since its a money issue [already have 18"x8.5" wheels with 265/60/18's] and I have other bills. I will be swapping the front drums to the 8 lug rotor conversion [3" Drop spindles] that POL sells and using a hydroboost setup. I know about weight removal and relocation, it had two saddle tanks and the one behind the seat. All three are gone and I'm adding a 32 gallon custom built tank to it behind the axle. So part of my question is which front springs should I get since I'm switching to a 500HP 5.3L LS from the obscenely heavy 305E V6 and I really don't want to do a flip kit to drop it but I wouldn't mind the truck being more level than the stock trucks are. Should I get rid of the stock multi-leafs for a new lowered set? I still might haul light loads under 1000 pounds in it rarely.
1 1/4 inch front sway bar? 1 inch rear or bigger? Its overall weight will be much lighter than stock with all the aluminum parts and I plan to set the motor back as far as I can and still remove the valve covers if need be. I also plan to run two batteries mounted in the rear outside the frame rails behind the tank and a roll pan/custom 4"x6" pipe bumper.
Someone mentioned Cal tracs and there is a new solution that's more adjustable but both seem meant from leafs under the axle not over it. Can I build something similar to the style available for the earlier trucks [55-59] ?

[BossHogg69]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I will continue to drill more rivets.

Another question. I've been looking at Mike Hickmans C10 build in regards to frame bracing. Looks like he did a far amount of X-bracing as apposed to frame boxing. Also welding triangular plates across stock cross members.

Any opinions? Good or not.

Thanks

Here's what I did - Art Morrison center section.

[BigDan3131]

Great job on that frame it looks just perfect.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by BigDan3131

Hi Rob,

So after reading much of the thread most of it is dedicated to the later model 67 up trucks. I recently finished the paint and body work on my 1965 GMC Longbed 3/4 ton truck and while I do not plan to race it I want it to handle better than it came from the factory. I plan to keep the 8 lugs since its a money issue [already have 18"x8.5" wheels with 265/60/18's] and I have other bills. I will be swapping the front drums to the 8 lug rotor conversion [3" Drop spindles] that POL sells and using a hydroboost setup. I know about weight removal and relocation, it had two saddle tanks and the one behind the seat. All three are gone and I'm adding a 32 gallon custom built tank to it behind the axle. So part of my question is which front springs should I get since I'm switching to a 500HP 5.3L LS from the obscenely heavy 305E V6 and I really don't want to do a flip kit to drop it but I wouldn't mind the truck being more level than the stock trucks are. Should I get rid of the stock multi-leafs for a new lowered set? I still might haul light loads under 1000 pounds in it rarely.
1 1/4 inch front sway bar? 1 inch rear or bigger? Its overall weight will be much lighter than stock with all the aluminum parts and I plan to set the motor back as far as I can and still remove the valve covers if need be. I also plan to run two batteries mounted in the rear outside the frame rails behind the tank and a roll pan/custom 4"x6" pipe bumper.
Someone mentioned Cal tracs and there is a new solution that's more adjustable but both seem meant from leafs under the axle not over it. Can I build something similar to the style available for the earlier trucks [55-59] ?

Your biggest hurdle is rear Un-Sprung weight. that is, the total weight of all the components that are not supported by the suspension (springs). This would include the rear axle, brakes, wheels, tires, U-bolt hadrware and plates, and half of the leaf springs and shocks. Lets say there is 1400 lbs total rear wt., and, your rear un=sprung wt is appx 600 lbs. That means that the 'spung' weight on the rear axle is appx 800 lbs. So, your rear un-sprung weight percentage is close to 75% of sprung weight. This = disaster in the suspension world. 50% is the max for anything that handles. To get there, you could A) add 400 lbs to the rear sprung weight (this is why duallys ride better with 1000 lb of crap in the bed), or, B) swap to a lightweight 9" and 4-bar, and light weight wheels/tires. - I know, neither of these is going to happen. - But, now you know what your up against. Go with big sway bars and good shocks (try off roar pre runner valve styles) don't worry too much about the springs.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

Here's what I did - Art Morrison center section.

Looks great. How did this effect the ride/handling of the truck?