'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[Kristian j]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Benjamin makes a great air rifle. BTW, this is America. no explanation necessary. We sometimes have real guns leaning against our shops.....just saying..

If that is the case, think it would leaning inside the shop!

Now I think it,s for the squirrels.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

The only questionable aspect would be regarding safe handling practices, not ownership.

Sorry to bring politics to your thread. edited.
Any responsible gun owner practices safe handling.

Back to the build.
I'd like to see that media made from recycled plastic.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Kristian j

If that is the case, think it would leaning inside the shop!

All those items normally reside just inside the shop door and were moved for space to get the car out. No, I don't store a tripod, macebell, and rifle outside

Originally Posted by mcbassin

I'd like to see that media made from recycled plastic.

I'll try to get pics today.

[Frizzle Fry]

Pics from the blasters-

Doorless:




Plastic Media:


Doors blasted down to primer. That's how mild this media can be. Those are aluminum bats being stripped on the right:

[watahyahknow]

seen blasters demonstrate the gentle way that stuff works by stripping the ink of a cokecan without damaging the aluminium
its good stuff it takes a little longer to strip the paint though as they use a lot less pressure

theres a company here that rebuids engines on an industrial scale
they blast the cylinderheads and engine blocks with ground cherrypits when some of that stays in the engine it will burn away instead of grinding the bearings to dust

i seen a new system a while back that blasts the medium with water and air , it keeps a lot of the dust down
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCehkkTTeMk

[Kristian j]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

i seen a new system a while back that blasts the medium with water and air , it keeps a lot of the dust down
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCehkkTTeMk

Just one little thing, water and bare metal does not mix. As soon as the rinsing water has dried the iron oxide is there. Or have I missed something?

[Kristian j]

Doors blasted down to primer. That's how mild this media can be. Those are aluminum bats being stripped on the right:

About the doors:
Did you have any problem with the removal of the glass channels (Or whatever you call them i US)

[watahyahknow]

Originally Posted by Kristian j

Just one little thing, water and bare metal does not mix. As soon as the rinsing water has dried the iron oxide is there. Or have I missed something?

youre right they do rince it with some stuff dunno if its a rustpreventer , should work ok on aloys
they often blast seacontainers and ships that way too they prolly use that white stuff that reacts with rust and turns black before painting those
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lodAfnIbVqM

[Frizzle Fry]

All the weatherstripping has be out for a while now. I didn't have any issues with removal.

[Frizzle Fry]

Blastification continues... Getting cleaner!
Hood-
Inside:


Out:


Trunk Lid:


Shell:

[76C10Stepside]

Nice! Good looking body shell, quality product.

[mcbassin]

Very nice!

[dhaymaker]

This is some very nice blasting work. Normally, I worry about what will be exposed as a result of the blasting. But, in your case, it just shows the quality of the work already put into this project car!

[Low Elco]

Looks nice! Let the epoxy fly!

[Kristian j]

Here you can see the quality of a little British car from Rootes Car Company. Unfortunately efter 1964 it was a quality decrease and after the Chrysler take-over it went from bad to worse.
So Frizz, enjoy one of the last of the reasonable good British family cars.

[Frizzle Fry]

Leaning toward SPI epoxy primer for this bad dog. Anyone have experience with it? I see nothing but rave reviews for SPI.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Leaning toward SPI epoxy primer for this bad dog. Anyone have experience with it? I see nothing but rave reviews for SPI.

I'm looking into SPI as well for our projects. As you said, nothing but great reviews. Seems to be a quality product. Price is also appealing after using PPG for the last two builds.

[El Campo]

I used it on my 72 frame but I am not proficient enough in ANY paint product to say if it was worth a crap or not. Laid on very nice even out of a cheap gun and sanded with 600 (the runs I had they suggested I sand out with that) extremely easily. I can tell you that their customer service is second to none (not even to Amazon) and they always answered all my newbie questions with respect and patience. There are pics on my thread if you feel like looking but as I said I am a novice at best.

[Low Elco]

Everything I've heard has been highly positive. Look up the Silver Dollar thread in 67-72 projects.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Frizzle Fry]

Awesome guys, thanks. I'll check out those threads. Been reading about using SPI epoxy and filler only; no build primer. Guess it is sandable enough. Sounds like a solid foundation!
Posted via Mobile Device

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Awesome guys, thanks. I'll check out those threads. Been reading about using SPI epoxy and filler only; no build primer. Guess it is sandable enough. Sounds like a solid foundation!
Posted via Mobile Device

I haven't used any of the SPI product but it looks like they have some good pricing. I have been using Matrix Systems LINK. It lays extremely good. It's quite a bit more expensive with the reducer and catalyst though. I prefer the gray but the white works good too. I'm interested to see how the SPI performs.

Have you decided to take on the task of bodywork and paint yourself? Or are you just prepping it for the paint shop? Also, you don't need high build primer with this SPI epoxy product? Interesting.

[Frizzle Fry]

I asked the blaster/painter (it's a bodyshop with a blast booth) to call SPI and talk to them about their epoxy. At this point I'm undecided on who will shoot the color. I am planning to take delivery of it after blasting and epoxy. I'll do what I can with the bodywork including final primer and then assess my options. Who knows, I may end up shooting some or all of the color.

Do a little googling on SPI epoxy and you'll find guys out there using it without any 2k. Worth a try if the sheetmetal is straight enough. If I end up needing some build primer then I'll use it.

[Frizzle Fry]

duplicate post

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Do a little googling on SPI epoxy and you'll find guys out there using it without any 2k. Worth a try if the sheetmetal is straight enough. If I end up needing some build primer then I'll use it.

Okay, that make sense if your body is arrow straight. I know on our old trucks they aren't very straight even with no filler and no body work. I have a product called Z-chrome LINK that primes, fills and seals in one. I am still laying epoxy under it anyway, because I just found out about it recently. Suppose to be very good for filling imperfections. In some cases filler isn't even needed. I am no expert but I'm guessing you will need some kind of high build to block out the highs and lows.

But if you're not looking for show quality you'll probably be fine without it. BTW, I know you have the skills to finish painting just from how you finish your metal work. The painting is the reward for all the hard work getting to that point.
Looking forward to next pictures.

[Frizzle Fry]

Still at the blaster's. He's juggling several projects requiring him to switch out his media from "virgin plastic" to a 10% abrasive blend and back. The car is back in the booth for a few last surface rust spots to be dealt with using the 10% abrasive.

After that it gets sanded with 180grit everywhere epoxy will go.

Here's that last pics a took about a week ago: