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Old 12-26-2019, 01:31 PM   #1
cornerstone
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

So glad to see these updates Gringo! This is the first I've heard of using the Jeep fan. I've been hoping to use my stock rad and shroud also, so now its clear as day how do handle it.

In answer to the question posed by C10_ustacould, I can shed some light on what I used for hoses for the Gen 5. The upper hose shows the part number. The lower hose is harder to see but it is a combination of the factory 2014 Silverado at the water pump and spliced to a 90 degree bend near the radiator inlet.
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Old 12-28-2019, 04:08 PM   #2
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I meant to ask about the Jeep fan last night when I was over there. How did you mount it, because I don't see the bolts that everybody else uses to hold the top arms to the inside of the shroud? Also, I thought the Jeep fans were a single speed fan?
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Old 12-28-2019, 08:13 PM   #3
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerstone View Post
So glad to see these updates Gringo! This is the first I've heard of using the Jeep fan. I've been hoping to use my stock rad and shroud also, so now its clear as day how do handle it.

In answer to the question posed by C10_ustacould, I can shed some light on what I used for hoses for the Gen 5. The upper hose shows the part number. The lower hose is harder to see but it is a combination of the factory 2014 Silverado at the water pump and spliced to a 90 degree bend near the radiator inlet.
Check out this thread for more info on the Jeep fan: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=254617
Quote:
Originally Posted by smbrouss70 View Post
I meant to ask about the Jeep fan last night when I was over there. How did you mount it, because I don't see the bolts that everybody else uses to hold the top arms to the inside of the shroud? Also, I thought the Jeep fans were a single speed fan?
Mounted per the above thread, I have cut the lower slot, but haven’t poked the top holes yet. There’s two versions of that same fan, I grabbed the Spectra CF13009 with 3-wire/2-speed
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:01 PM   #4
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Getting everything prepped for the TKO, which should be here Monday. Chatting with smbrouss70 over beers last night, he talked about how much trouble he had getting his transmission to engage the pilot hole due to the sloppy tolerances of the plastic alignment tool.

In a rare genius moment, I decided to wrap the tool in foil tape to take up some of the slack. 2 layers worked perfectly! The new 26-spline clutch is torqued in place and hopefully allows the trans to slide in with ease.
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:11 PM   #5
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Also spent a little time rebuilding my hydro throwout, as I got a little excited and accidentally forcibly disassembled it during removal of the Muncie. It got a new piston, seals, scrapers, and c-clip. Good to go.

Driveshaft also now has a new Spicer 1310-1330 conversion u-joint, ready to accept the 31-spline slip yoke for the Tremec. Fingers crossed I won’t have to shorten the shaft (it will be close).
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Old 01-02-2020, 09:52 PM   #6
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

After a few days spent having to do FedEx’s job for them, things just got interesting:
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Old 01-02-2020, 11:20 PM   #7
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Boom.
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Old 01-03-2020, 12:54 AM   #8
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

You're going to love it!
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Old 01-03-2020, 09:48 PM   #9
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I have a box like that in my garage! But I’m not nearly as far along as you. I’m going to be mocking everything up for fitment this spring.

Are you going to move the shifter to the mid position or just flip it around where it is now?

Make sure it shifts thru the gears, sometimes the shippers set the trans box on end and it puts the shift rods out of alignment. It will be in 2 gears at once. Mine was bound up, but it was easy to fix. There’s a YouTube video out there somewhere about it.

What clutch and throw out bearing are you using? Those are the last things I need. I’m using Capt Fab’s master setup, the Silver Sport bell, and I already have a flywheel.

Cool build, I’ve been following it for a while now.
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Old 01-04-2020, 12:56 PM   #10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by TA_C10 View Post
Boom.
My feelings exactly
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Originally Posted by smbrouss70 View Post
You're going to love it!
I sure hope so!
Quote:
Originally Posted by clay68c10 View Post
I have a box like that in my garage! But I’m not nearly as far along as you. I’m going to be mocking everything up for fitment this spring.

Are you going to move the shifter to the mid position or just flip it around where it is now?

Make sure it shifts thru the gears, sometimes the shippers set the trans box on end and it puts the shift rods out of alignment. It will be in 2 gears at once. Mine was bound up, but it was easy to fix. There’s a YouTube video out there somewhere about it.

What clutch and throw out bearing are you using? Those are the last things I need. I’m using Capt Fab’s master setup, the Silver Sport bell, and I already have a flywheel.

Cool build, I’ve been following it for a while now.
Thanks for the kind words!

I’m yet undecided on shifter location. I think rear-flipped will be fine, will see once I get it stabbed.

Clutch is an 11” big-block style, RAM 78125HD hydraulic throwout. Setup easy and worked great with the Muncie, should be similar with the TKO.
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Old 01-06-2020, 07:36 PM   #11
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

OH damn! I want one of those for my GTO!!!!
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Old 01-06-2020, 09:18 PM   #12
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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OH damn! I want one of those for my GTO!!!!
I feel the same way! I want one for my Falcon
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Old 01-06-2020, 11:26 PM   #13
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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OH damn! I want one of those for my GTO!!!!
Quote:
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I feel the same way! I want one for my Falcon
Had to check out your builds, nice cars both!
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Old 01-07-2020, 10:06 AM   #14
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Thanks for the info, Gringo!
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Old 01-11-2020, 10:25 AM   #15
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Anytime I need inspiration for the Burb, it always brings me back to your thread. I appreciate your willingness to share your findings and expertise with all of us. I also decided to go the Terminator X route and can't wait to start on that part of the project! Keep up the good work!
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Old 01-11-2020, 09:24 PM   #16
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Thanks for the info, Gringo!
No worries, this is why we’re here
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Anytime I need inspiration for the Burb, it always brings me back to your thread. I appreciate your willingness to share your findings and expertise with all of us. I also decided to go the Terminator X route and can't wait to start on that part of the project! Keep up the good work!
Thanks man, love that ‘burb. You’re gonna love termi-x, plug and play, fires right up, and gets better every time I drive it
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Old 01-19-2020, 11:28 AM   #17
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Well, the TKO is “in”. The easy, heavy-lifting piece is done, but it still needs a new mount spacer ( have a 3/4” piece of scrap wood in there for the moment), driveshaft shortened, clutch bled, floor clearanced, fluid filled, etc, etc.

I made these handy alignment dowels out of a pair of grade ‘cheap silver cad’ bolts. Simply lopped the heads off, chamfered the end, and cut a screwdriver slit for ease of removal. Worked like a charm!
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Old 01-19-2020, 11:38 AM   #18
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Due to the dropmember moving the engine up, the transmission is very high in the tunnel, but should still just fit under the high hump. Remains to be seen, still need to fill the Muncie shifter hole and cut a new one.
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Old 01-19-2020, 11:49 AM   #19
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

This also places the shifter ball in a very high position. Currently, I’m using a 16” long lever, which exacerbates the issue and contributes to a very long shift throw. I’ll look into using a shorter lever around 10-12”, and possibly a short-shifter base if needed.
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Old 01-19-2020, 08:03 PM   #20
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Interested to see if the clearance will be enough all the way around in the high hump like you said. I guess it won't move around too much but.....

Looks killer man.
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:30 AM   #21
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looks good, but wow it sits way higher than mine does. Like Inverter said, it is quite notchy at first, but after about 2,000 miles on mine it seems to have worn in enough to make it feel much better.
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1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck"
1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer"
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Old 02-01-2020, 09:07 PM   #22
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Put in some time today getting the trans in its final resting place. The mount sits about 3.5” higher than before the dropmember, so to keep from stacking up a bunch of spacers, I cut the crossmember tab off and welded a 1.75” spacer to it. I cut holes to recess the mount bolts—one less thing to drag the speedbumps.

Once mounted, the trans ended up coming into the cab more than I wanted, but the driveline angles are good and everything is clearing. Fluid is filled and shifter is in, now I just need to build a driveshaft tunnel, which is wanting to occupy the same space as my bench seat. I think I’ll rename this truck “5-pound sack”.
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
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Old 02-02-2020, 07:53 PM   #23
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

The old girl got some sun today:
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Old 02-02-2020, 07:58 PM   #24
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Old 02-02-2020, 08:06 PM   #25
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Terrorizing the neighborhood a bit before the game

https://youtu.be/y2vE6yRqlFI
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Instagram _elgringoloco_

'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy
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