Make it handle

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by Bowtiguy

here ya go!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=my+castor+mod

I did a quick eye ball alignment on the truck in the garage and I can let go of the steering wheel at 65 mph. amazing. The benefits I see from this mod vs. what I was considering (ridetech strong arms/coilovers)

1) Cost $2k for the ridetech gear...ouch!
2) almost centers the wheel in the wheel ell perfectly (within 1/4" I'd say)
3) you get to run a longer spring/shock package by not using coilovers.

Thank you.. I see you are on bags... Would I need this if Im just doing a static drop I wonder? Used 2.5" drop spindles with 3" coils in front and 5" coils in back... Trying to get a stance maybe 1 to 2 inches higher in back..

[Bowtiguy]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

Thank you.. I see you are on bags... Would I need this if Im just doing a static drop I wonder? Used 2.5" drop spindles with 3" coils in front and 5" coils in back... Trying to get a stance maybe 1 to 2 inches higher in back..

Actually. I'm on coil springs. -1 front (w/ 2" drop spindles); -3 rear ( w/ 2" blocks). I had -2" front but my front tires have a lower profile (and harsher ride) than the rears. I wanted to even out things F/R so I'm putting -1" springs up front then bolting on good shocks.

Keep over all tire height in mind when choosing springs.

from what I've read, you are better off using 2" blocks w/ 3" springs than 5" springs/ no blocks. AND 5.5" drop is A LOT up front. Most combos here on the forum are 3/5 or 4/6. There are several pics of these setups to give you an idea on overall stance.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by Bowtiguy

Actually. I'm on coil springs. -1 front (w/ 2" drop spindles); -3 rear ( w/ 2" blocks). I had -2" front but my front tires have a lower profile (and harsher ride) than the rears. I wanted to even out things F/R so I'm putting -1" springs up front then bolting on good shocks.

Keep over all tire height in mind when choosing springs.

from what I've read, you are better off using 2" blocks w/ 3" springs than 5" springs/ no blocks. AND 5.5" drop is A LOT up front. Most combos here on the forum are 3/5 or 4/6. There are several pics of these setups to give you an idea on overall stance.

Thanks again.. I guess once I get all the weight back on it ill decide if I want to swap out the front springs with 1' or 2"... I read it takes a little while for springs to settle into their final ride height too..

[Rob Fisher]

I have a 1964 GMC with Porterbuilt Stage 2 air ride suspension front and back.
Was wondering if anyone has successfully installed a rear sway bar with this or a similar rear suspension setup. I have been looking at the the No Limit Over the frame rail rear sway bar and was wondering if this would be a good choice. Would also like to have suggestions on a good shock replacement, I currently have the standard shocks that come with the Porter Built kits.
Any thing that you can share would be appreciated
Thank you

[Coldshot]

On the same sway bar subject, I'm doing a custom setup up front and would like a few pointers if possible on mounting the front sway bar. It's hooked to the suspension but I need to make mounts to go into the frame. I know the ends should be pointing down or be level but is it best to set it up when it's on the ground or suspended? Also if it should be on the ground should it be under full load (engine in) or does it matter?

Thanks

[Bowtiguy]

NLE front sway bar mount upgrade: After doing the lower control arm relocation forward by 3/4" during the build to increase caster adjustment, I noticed that the NLE power rack was hitting the front sway bar A-arm mounts at full extension when the front sway bar was installed per the directions. So much so they actually bent the 9/16" rods.

[Bowtiguy]

Hers how I fixed it: I Modified spohn performance sway bay end links for G bodies. Now I've got 100% free travel up and down with no interference anywhere. I'm sure I could have fabed the lower mounts up, but time + money for me most days.

http://www.spohn.net/shop/New-Produc...Carlo-etc.html

[Bowtiguy]

somebody asked for pics of the Energy Suspension generic rear jounce bumpers installed. So here it goes...

I'm going to wait until I get the "wood" bed done before I pass final judgement, but they look promising. They are a touch taller but the difference in compression is NIGHT AND DAY! The re-pops are crap! supper hard and cracked when removed.

[Eric15chevys]

I may have missed it has anyone figured out a way to fix thrust angle that is way outta wack? I stumble into something a few weeks back while I was home for christmas.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Bowtiguy

Hers how I fixed it: I Modified spohn performance sway bay end links for G bodies. Now I've got 100% free travel up and down with no interference anywhere. I'm sure I could have fabed the lower mounts up, but time + money for me most days.

http://www.spohn.net/shop/New-Produc...Carlo-etc.html

Nice fix. The 'forward' arm position honestly isn't something we tested with that sway bar. The Spohn parts are top notch. Thanks for the info, looks like a really nice working truck.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Bowtiguy

somebody asked for pics of the Energy Suspension generic rear jounce bumpers installed. So here it goes...

I'm going to wait until I get the "wood" bed done before I pass final judgement, but they look promising. They are a touch taller but the difference in compression is NIGHT AND DAY! The re-pops are crap! supper hard and cracked when removed.

We really like these bumps. on some builds we fab our own mount bracket, to replace the OE bracket, that moves the bump up about 5/8". This is just enough so that when the axle fully compresses the bump, it's 1/8" from the chassis.

[Mtrhd329]

Rob- getting more competitive with autocross now and i have noticed the fast cars are using a locating device for their leaf rears. I am gping to set up a panhard bar somehow around my fuel tank swsy bar and exhaust. I know it should be long low and level, with adjustability built in. BUT....how do you tune a panhard bar to get the bite you need to help me roll out of the turn in the gas. Is there a method to this? Ive read the thread many times and have seen referenced the way to build one but no tuning tips.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Eric15chevys

I may have missed it has anyone figured out a way to fix thrust angle that is way outta wack? I stumble into something a few weeks back while I was home for christmas.

If you are talking about the alignment of the rear axle on stock trailing arms, it's tough to fix with OE parts. There is some room with the stock u-bolts. We have, in the past, loosened the u-bolts, shifted the housing to get it as close as we could, tightened the bolts, and then tack welded the axle saddle to the trailing arms. Another solution is to remove the rivets from the front TA mount, and put a spacer behind it (on the short side) this is a real pain. Keep in mind these were tractors with windows. We love them, but they weren't built to NASA specs. It's up to us to fix 'em.

[Bowtiguy]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Nice fix. The 'forward' arm position honestly isn't something we tested with that sway bar. The Spohn parts are top notch. Thanks for the info, looks like a really nice working truck.

I figured that, I'm sure the sway bar / power rack combo would have been perfect with a stock layout. In hind sight, I should have tested it lock to lock while the power steering pump was powered up before driving it.

Originally Posted by robnolimit

We really like these bumps. on some builds we fab our own mount bracket, to replace the OE bracket, that moves the bump up about 5/8". This is just enough so that when the axle fully compresses the bump, it's 1/8" from the chassis.

I was thinking about doing the same thing. I figured I would get the "wood bed" ( I'm using decking material) done first, get a full load on it and see how the bump stops work in that position, but I have a feeling the brackets will need to be moved up as you suggested. I'm happy with the 3/5 drop and 20's. trying to avoid a C notch at all costs.

I have nothing "old" to compare it to as I never drove the truck before the mods. But, with the help of this thread, NLE parts and my limited knowledge of chassis set-up from my road racing days...its pretty dam fun to drive with the TR6060!

[Coldshot]

Heres a question I don't think has be asked, what about roll cages? Added stiffness?
And rob how much bigger or dimensionally different is your f100 to a chevy 3100? Wondering if I ordered a cage kit for one of those (cuz there's no pre made kits for a 3100) if I could make it work?

[solidaxel]

As this thread was started by Rob and has MANY viewers I thought it would be a good place to say THANK YOU to Tina and Rob at No Limit Engineering.

2 days ago I called NLE with a problem I was having with the reverse opening hood kit on the 56 Ford, one of the rollers had broken and was creating a problem closing the hood.

Well in the mail today was a new roller from Rob (Tina) with no invoice attached, that my friends is called Customer Service!

This kit is 15 years old and they still stand by their product

Thanks again for "Handling" my problem !

[hotrod1]

Amen to Rob and Tina at NLE. They go above and beyond!

[sama lama]

I really like the looks of the Wilwood pro c10 spindles

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

As this thread was started by Rob and has MANY viewers I thought it would be a good place to say THANK YOU to Tina and Rob at No Limit Engineering.

2 days ago I called NLE with a problem I was having with the reverse opening hood kit on the 56 Ford, one of the rollers had broken and was creating a problem closing the hood.

Well in the mail today was a new roller from Rob (Tina) with no invoice attached, that my friends is called Customer Service!

This kit is 15 years old and they still stand by their product

Thanks again for "Handling" my problem !

Thanks for the great reviews guys. 1) - we really are here to try and help you. 2) this ones important, if your nice to Tina and Jess, and you tell them the truth, they WILL help you. If your not, well....

Thanks again.

BTW, This thread has gotten bigger and gone farther than I ever thought it would. I'm not sure how in depth or in which other directions to go with it. I am working on some cage drawings for you.

[Paul Y]

Rob,

This thread is how I ended up with your suspension 'system' on my 66!

Can also vouch for the superb customer service.

If you are in the drawing mood could I ask you to put something together that explains in pictures how you go about stiffening the chassis on a C10? Right at the beginning of the thread you make reference to it but I cant visualise it - your input would be appreciated.

Regards,

P.

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

BTW, This thread has gotten bigger and gone farther than I ever thought it would. I'm not sure how in depth or in which other directions to go with it. I am working on some cage drawings for you.

If you are taking requests...

Can you talk about adding additional bars from the front of the chassis to the firewall or from the rear frame to the cab?

Is there a benefit to this? Risks/Rewards etc.

[Clndesl]

I have a quick question for the pros. I have a 69 swb and I was doing a 2-4 static drop but then I decided to add a big brake kit to the build so that added 2.5" drop spindles. I was going to just order new 6" rear springs but would like to keep the travel of the 4" springs. Do you guys think it would be better to just add a 2" block kit or do the 6" springs. I'm going for best ride and handleing. Thanks in advance.

[robnolimit]

The longer spring will 'almost' always ride better. So, if you have a choice, go with the 2" block first, then drop with springs.

OK, they are new but the Wilwood drop spindle big disk kit spindle may be worth looking at. In your case, with a 2/4 drop, the un-sprung weight savings on the spindle/brake assembly would help the ride/handling. I'm not so sure that this spindle is great for everybody, because for the guys going farther, away from the OE geometry, there are better options. But, for 'mild' builds this is a worth while choice.

[NBryant]

Hey Rob I am setting up the rear axle a Ford 9 inch and a parallel 4 link with air bags. Its going in my 1983 Chevy long bed 2wd. I have back halfed the frame just behind the cab. My question is where do I set the pinion angle?

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The longer spring will 'almost' always ride better. So, if you have a choice, go with the 2" block first, then drop with springs..

Hey Rob.. I just came back to refresh my memory on what Ive read in this wonderful thread. I thank you for taking time to give your expertise here.

Im double thinking the setup I have going on right now. I did 2.5" drop spindles with 3" springs in front and 5" springs in back... Still dont have all the weight back on the truck yet, but I fear, like Ive been told, that this may be no good. I used your adjustable panhard bar kit along with the shock relocation kit and rear above frame sway bar. What I was looking for was maybe 2" higher in back than the front, but I didnt want to do a C-knotch... what would you recommend? Am I too low in front and should I do what you just said here and go with blocks and 3" springs in back? Still dont have the bed on and the front clip is just tacked on with a few bolts right now, so now would be the time to go back if I need to... the wheels and tires are what I'll be running in this pic... no engine (350) or trans are in it yet... Thanks in advance...