Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

what do we have here, looks like our replacement new used Tachometer showed up

don't mind the Amazon box, I bought it off of eBay for $45 bucks, using the buy it now option, now I either got really taken if it does not work, or I scored majorilly as a new one is $150 bucks

about to put it in, so wish me luck...

[Gregski]

well the replacement Tach appears to be working, it may be 75 RPMs off but that's assuming my used digital timing light is spot on, I will have a friend at a shop compare it to his timing light so we know for sure, but hey it's just a truck so it's good enuff for me

[rgunlock]

Good enuf for you means money well spent. Great progress against your to-do list!

[hatzie]

Sell the other one. Someone will buy it even though it's off a bit. It works and it can be re-calibrated... For that matter so can this one.

[greg64]

Originally Posted by Gregski

well the replacement Tach appears to be working, it may be 75 RPMs off but that's assuming my used digital timing light is spot on, I will have a friend at a shop compare it to his timing light so we know for sure, but hey it's just a truck so it's good enuff for me

Good deal for $45!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Good enuf for you means money well spent. Great progress against your to-do list!

thanks, still tons left to do, I would make another list but I'm afraid you all would hold me to it, LOL

[Chaplain]

Make the list...and share it.

[Gregski]

suga'
... yes please

special thanks to Rich for recommending Classic Parts, got a great price on this brand new fuel gauge, even the back studs are labeled

now off to install it

[rich weyand]

I flipped the resistor over so the contacts were on top, and put star washers under the nuts so the resistor wouldn't lose contact so easily. Common "failure" mode that gives 1/4 reading when full. Take it out, tighten the connections, works again. Infuriating given how much digging you have to do to get to it.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

I flipped the resistor over so the contacts were on top, and put star washers under the nuts so the resistor wouldn't lose contact so easily. Common "failure" mode that gives 1/4 reading when full. Take it out, tighten the connections, works again. Infuriating given how much digging you have to do to get to it.

You my friend are the Dean of College of Truck Knowledge!

[Gregski]

I hate this West facing garage the sun is right in my face and right in the camera lens

We got ourselves an electric oil pressure gauge, a volt meter, a TACHOMETER, and a new fuel gauge....

Fuel gauge is in, this 74 to 78 gauge cluster swap is officially done!

Thank you all for your help

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Titomars

Technically those knobs are not period correct to your 74. If you care about such things. the correct knobs would match your headlight knob.

That was one of my problems with putting a Delco back in mine. I am the anal type that would only do so if I had the correct knobs. Guess what I could not find any the weren't an arm and a leg to buy...

well I hope you approve cause I had to meet a feller in a shady Rico's Pizza parking lot to get these, but you know The Greg he gits 'er done!!! and sometimes even the correct way, hee hee

... now who did I loan that Bon Jovi cassette to back in the summer of '86?

[greg64]

Glad to see it all back together. Right or wrong, I like the knobs on the radio.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by greg64

Glad to see it all back together. Right or wrong, I like the knobs on the radio.

Thank you, me too

[Gregski]

So Greg it's been like 10 minutes since you completed your last project, what are you going to do next...

I don't know guys... I am kinda tired, so I think it's BED TIME!!!

[Gregski]

if you all recall the bottom of my bed is toast, so it's time to replace it with the bottom from that donor bed I bought for $40 bucks a couple months back

[Gregski]

when I took the donor bed apart I noticed the sides are indeed welded to the bottom portion in the rear corners of the tailgate

below I am showing you what needs to be cut

[Gregski]

alright, here we go...

Tailgate Off!

[Gregski]

as you know I am a one man circus act so I am going to attempt to take the bed apart in pieces whilst on the truck, piece by piece by piece

first to come off will be the driver side wheel well, but to get that off we need to remove the front strut bar thingie and the mud flat thingie behind it

[Gregski]

alright about a dozen bolts later and a good stump with my foot and the rusty driver side inner bed fender was off

as you can see the inner fender has seen better days, nothing a man with a welding gun couldn't fix, but that man aint me, plus we have a replacement waiting in the corner of my garage from the donor bed

[Gregski]

probly best to remove the tailights before the hard concrete floor removes them for me

[Gregski]

so after undoing about 5 bolts between the cab and the bed side and another 2 or 3 under the bed by the cab, and another 5 or 6 in the back of the bed underneath, it was time to cut off them welds

[Gregski]

only to realize there is another weld behind the tailgate hinge, time to remove the hinge and cut that one too, what a pain

[Gregski]

and there we have it, drive side is off

I am pretty pleased, no broken bolts, and I did not spin any of those weld on nuts

the key to this operation is lubricant, (for you aka beer, and for the bolts, ie PB Blaster) unscrew a bolt a couple turns, then screw it back in, I don't care how easy it is coming out, you are building up heat and dragging a bunch of rust and grime into the threads, so screw it back in, then back out again, and you won't break any of them

more importantly this side is in really good shape, just surface rust and dust, other than that very solid

[Gregski]

this is what the weld on section looks like when the side is completely removed as you can see it indeed was welded on, not the greatest picture quality but you git the idea