A '54 named Busty

[Gregski]

not to shabby for my first piece

[dsraven]

Nice job. You're a natural.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Nice job. You're a natural.

ha ha, thanks, I think it's just beginners luck, now to figure out how to transfer them six bolt holes in the right places

[oldman3]

Very nice...Jim

[Gregski]

truck doing truck things, welded up a frame for a gate for my buddy

[Gregski]

so apparently removing these things eliminates the horrible squeaking noise, shocking I know!

[6DoF]

grease the bushings!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

grease the bushings!

will do, thanks, what should I use?

[dsraven]

If you have rubber control arm bushings. Loosen the control arm pivots slightly with the weight of the truck sitting on the tires. This allows the rubber bushings to relax on this position. Then tighten the control arm pivots
If the suspension pivots were tightened with the truck in the air then they were "captured" at that ride height. When the truck is let down onto its wheels the control arms move/turn so the rubber bushings get torqued/turned and any further movement causes them to make noise or possibly separate from their vulcanized metal inner and outer housings.
If you have urethane bushings grease them with silicone/synthetic grease like brake component lube. This also works on rubber parts and wont break down the rubber like a petroleum product will.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

If you have rubber control arm bushings

yes I like to use rubber bushings do not like eurethane

Originally Posted by dsraven

Loosen the control arm pivots slightly with the weight of the truck sitting on the tires. This allows the rubber bushings to relax on this position. Then tighten the control arm pivots

Thanks, that's how they were initially installed

Originally Posted by dsraven

If the suspension pivots were tightened with the truck in the air then they were "captured" at that ride height. When the truck is let down onto its wheels the control arms move/turn so the rubber bushings get torqued/turned and any further movement causes them to make noise or possibly separate from their vulcanized metal inner and outer housings.

very true

Originally Posted by dsraven

If you have urethane bushings grease them with silicone/synthetic grease like brake component lube. This also works on rubber parts and wont break down the rubber like a petroleum product will.

I was going to use either multipurpose bearing grease or white lithium grease, am I hearing do not use those? sorry when it comes to Chemistry I'm no Walter White, how about this Sil-Glide?

[dsraven]

Correct , dont use petroleum products on rubber. It causes the rubber to break down go soft and expand. It goes kinda gooey.

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by Gregski

will do, thanks, what should I use?

for me it's whatever is around the shop and closest by, generally GIBBS or HD wheel bearing grease. the wax in the wheel bearing grease tends to stick around a while.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

for me it's whatever is around the shop and closest by, generally GIBBS or HD wheel bearing grease. the wax in the wheel bearing grease tends to stick around a while.

that's what I was planning on using, but aint that a petroleum product?

I also have this, this is what I've been spraying the upper and lower control arm bushings with thinking they were the guilty culprit, but it's a spray and I don't trust it to stick around for a long time

[dsraven]

Silicone spray is a good thing to use for eliminating where the squeaks come from. Then use a synthetic grease on the rubber to have something that doesnt just dry off and allow the squeak to start again

[dsraven]

sil-glyde works. it is silicone grease. it sticks pretty well. some greases stick better. see the link below.
I use this stuff for lots of things that can't get normal petroleum grease. it has a brush in the can so that makes spreading it easier. it is a step up from the normal synthetic grease in that it has ceramic particles in it, I assume to work better around the heat of brakes etc. I use it on the backing plates where the brake shoes contact for drum style brakes, the brake pad abutment plates, the caliper mounting slides, the back sides of the brake pads where they contact the caliper pistons and the caliper housings. it works great for keeping the rust away from those areas and also for lubing the parts so the brakes stay quiet. I use it for lots of other stuff where you want the lube to stay put even when it gets hot. not really made for something like a bearing, as far as I know, but for slow speed stuff like hinges etc it works great.

https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-24125.../dp/B0018PSASU

I have used this before as well
https://www.partsource.ca/products/2...ubricant-80-ml

a video on greases for poly suspension bushings and an explanation of different greases
https://www.suspension.com/blog/the-...hane-bushings/

in case somebody is doing brakes and lurking...
https://www.super-lube.com/brake-grease-applications

[Gregski]

so lubbed up the shock bushings and reinstalled them, went for a test drive and NO MORE SQUEAKING, I am soooo happy, Happy Birthday to me!

thank you all so much for your help, advice and suggestions

[mongocanfly]

amazing how good a little lube works...whatd you end up using?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

amazing how good a little lube works...whatd you end up using?

that Silly Glide from NAPA as it did say Rubber friendly on the back

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

Sili-glyde or whatever its branded as, is a good all around silicone paste. You can use it to grease up almost anything that you want to assemble smoothly too.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by GreasyLikeaBurger

Sili-glyde or whatever its branded as, is a good all around silicone paste. You can use it to grease up almost anything that you want to assemble smoothly too.

I will take that on authority based on your handle alone, lol ha ha

[Gregski]

so decided to give the door panels a go

I purchased an original one with both panel frames from a forum mate to use as a template, however it shrunk over the years so none of the holes aligned

[Gregski]

so it was off to The Dollar store for some poster board which gosh darn it was only 22 x 28" ... wth? hence the Tennessee Chrome extension

am I the only one who recalls posters size being 24 x 36"

[Gregski]

then it was off to Home Depot for some Temper Tantrum Hardboard

[Gregski]

then we transferized the template to the cardboard and jig sawed it out, but not after we ranned to ACE Hardware first cause we were all out of saw blades (the 1st World Problems were in full effect that day)

[Gregski]

with a nip here and a tuck there it sorta fits