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Old 03-15-2019, 07:21 PM   #1876
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by knomadd View Post
You need to make a trip to Lone Star Thorwdown (LST) next year, when it's finished. It's out here just north of Houston in February.
Ha, you’re more optimistic on schedule than I am. We are definitely planning on hitting all of the good stuff once we’re down that way
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Very nice!
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Damn! Them some fine looking pieces you got there. Good work!
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That interior is going to be outstanding! Nice job
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Sweet! Those look great and will compliment your truck nicely.

I want to upgrade all my stuff now.... It's hard to resist the urges, heck my stage 1 build is already more like a stage 1 and 2 combined.....

Thanks guys, it never ends...
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Blue Houndstooth? What's the color/info on the other material? I'm on the hunt for retro (appearance & color) blue material that doesn't break the back.
Look for ENDURATEX Madrid 2309 CLASSIC Metallic Medium Blue Vinyl
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:48 PM   #1877
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Look for ENDURATEX Madrid 2309 CLASSIC Metallic Medium Blue Vinyl
Have you found a rattle can dye that matches the vinyl?
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:26 PM   #1878
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

That upholstery is pretty sweet and really goes the extra mile to make the truck unique!!!
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Old 03-16-2019, 01:09 PM   #1879
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Have you found a rattle can dye that matches the vinyl?
The last can I used was ordered from a Corvette restoration shop, as those cars used the same blue metallic vinyl. I don’t know how close this vinyl I’ve ordered will match the stock stuff, though, which is why I had them go ahead and re-cover the visors and dash pad, too. I can do a comparison against my armrests, which were painted with the rattle can, once the new pieces arrive.
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That upholstery is pretty sweet and really goes the extra mile to make the truck unique!!!
Thanks for the kudos. Going for stock-ish, but not quite. Most non-C-10 folks probably won’t even look twice
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Old 03-16-2019, 02:17 PM   #1880
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Ha, you’re more optimistic on schedule than I am. We are definitely planning on hitting all of the good stuff once we’re down that way
You can do it! It doesn't have to be "done." It doesn't even have to run, but it's a lot easier to get in and out if it does.
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Old 03-16-2019, 03:57 PM   #1881
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
The last can I used was ordered from a Corvette restoration shop, as those cars used the same blue metallic vinyl. I don’t know how close this vinyl I’ve ordered will match the stock stuff, though, which is why I had them go ahead and re-cover the visors and dash pad, too. I can do a comparison against my armrests, which were painted with the rattle can, once the new pieces arrive.
I'll watch for the updates. Thanks!
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:12 PM   #1882
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Did I miss it? How'd you get a MAF into the air cleaner?
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Old 03-16-2019, 10:00 PM   #1883
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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You can do it! It doesn't have to be "done." It doesn't even have to run, but it's a lot easier to get in and out if it does.
I’ll just be happy to have it together enough to get on a trailer in a couple of months
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I'll watch for the updates. Thanks!
No worries, should have everything in a few weeks
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Did I miss it? How'd you get a MAF into the air cleaner?
MAF-less, speed-density via Fitech, but Holley’s new Terminator X is looking pretty good to me now. Check out dayj1’s “another way to skin the cat” thread for a good example of how to hide the MAF in a tall air cleaner. I’ve also seen guys use the cartridge type in the snorkel
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Old 03-16-2019, 10:12 PM   #1884
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

My new bellhousing arrived and I got right to bolting it on and stabbing the transmission. You can see just under the top-most bolt where the alloy unit has more clearance than the old Lakewood steel one. This is where the rear cover bolts needed some wiggle room. The new one is from Silver Sport, and is made specifically for LS to Muncie conversions. Should also work well with a TKO, if/when I decide to go that route and saves what feels like 60 lbs...

No pictures of the hydraulic throw out, but it set up beautifully with proper clearance. I couldn’t resist bolting up the Hurst shifter and pretending to row through the gears
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Old 03-16-2019, 10:20 PM   #1885
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

...and a few shots of the engine sitting in its rightful place. I particularly like the last one showing how nicely everything tucks up with the dropmember.
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Old 03-17-2019, 12:02 PM   #1886
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

You are making me want to do an LS swap....
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Old 03-17-2019, 12:12 PM   #1887
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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You are making me want to do an LS swap....
Jump on in, everybody’s doing it! Once this junk is “done”, I’ll be happy to come help
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Old 03-17-2019, 02:20 PM   #1888
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Swap is looking on point!
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 03-17-2019, 03:41 PM   #1889
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Everything looks great! What size is that booster/master set up? Is that a captain fab bracket hiding behind?
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Old 03-18-2019, 01:05 AM   #1890
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Swap is looking on point!
Thanks Scoti!
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Everything looks great! What size is that booster/master set up? Is that a captain fab bracket hiding behind?
Thanks, the booster is a 9” dual diaphragm from inline tube, wilwood master, and captainfab bracket with integrated clutch master
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Old 03-18-2019, 11:37 AM   #1891
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looking good from here!

Nice job Chris.
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Old 03-19-2019, 10:01 PM   #1892
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Just spent the last week going through this build thread and found myself writing down ideas to follow up on and parts to look into for a few of my builds.

Excellent work on all fronts Chris - you are doing top notch stuff!

What shifter boot are you considering for the Muncie? I replaced the one in the 70 GMC Jimmy with a new one (Amazon cheapie) and it ripped after using it for driving in/out of the garage... I should have known.
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Old 03-19-2019, 10:06 PM   #1893
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

That engine is looking sick in the bay man. Top Notch.


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Old 03-19-2019, 11:27 PM   #1894
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Looking good from here!

Nice job Chris.
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Originally Posted by TA_C10 View Post
That engine is looking sick in the bay man. Top Notch.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lks dcvn View Post
Just spent the last week going through this build thread and found myself writing down ideas to follow up on and parts to look into for a few of my builds.

Excellent work on all fronts Chris - you are doing top notch stuff!

What shifter boot are you considering for the Muncie? I replaced the one in the 70 GMC Jimmy with a new one (Amazon cheapie) and it ripped after using it for driving in/out of the garage... I should have known.
Thanks for the compliments, everyone. I just do the things I think are cool, I’m glad others seem to like it as well

As for the shift boot, the plan is for a factory (or re-pop, most likely) oval-shaped 4wd boot and trim ring, just keeping with the stock-ish theme. Hurst makes this handy little piece to adapt the flat handle to a round-ish boot hole:

https://www.hurstshiftersonline.com/...ommet-p590.htm
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:48 PM   #1895
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Had some power steering hoses made-up at the local hydraulics shop yesterday. Quick turn, cheap, and fit nicely. The high-side snakes behind the tensioner bracket, while low side has a pretty much straight shot to the reservoir.

That allowed pressing-on of the pump pulley and then measuring for the serpentine belt. I’m happy to report that it only took two trips to the LAPS to get the right one Baby steps...
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Old 03-20-2019, 03:28 PM   #1896
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

You're killing it Chris, one step at a time. Your patience and eye for detail are paying off for sure!
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Old 03-21-2019, 03:50 PM   #1897
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Wow...the fit of the engine in that drop member is perfect....I dont know if you could even fab something remotely close to that at home!
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Old 03-21-2019, 04:47 PM   #1898
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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You're killing it Chris, one step at a time. Your patience and eye for detail are paying off for sure!
Thanks, buddy! I may have to back off on the detail work for a bit, it’s time to get this beast running!
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Wow...the fit of the engine in that drop member is perfect....I dont know if you could even fab something remotely close to that at home!
Not with my skill set, I know my limitations Definitely a high quality product
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Old 04-05-2019, 11:06 AM   #1899
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Great truck - great work!

...saw that you had some questions re. the clutch rod angle set up on another post and I'm working on the same subject so I thought I'd get you some photo's of an alternative set up - couldn't send photo's via PM so I'm using this post. Might help you and/or others:

This is the NO LIMIT this set up for hydraulic clutch and looks much more straightforward - pulls the clutch master up higher, rod is straight, is on a flatter firewall area and uses the more popular mounting style master which allows for larger and/or remote reservoir. Plate is 3/16"
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Old 04-05-2019, 02:53 PM   #1900
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Great truck - great work!

...saw that you had some questions re. the clutch rod angle set up on another post and I'm working on the same subject so I thought I'd get you some photo's of an alternative set up - couldn't send photo's via PM so I'm using this post. Might help you and/or others:

This is the NO LIMIT this set up for hydraulic clutch and looks much more straightforward - pulls the clutch master up higher, rod is straight, is on a flatter firewall area and uses the more popular mounting style master which allows for larger and/or remote reservoir. Plate is 3/16"
Appreciate the compliments The NL stuff looks nice, wish I’d known there was another option. I’m pretty far down the road with my current setup, so I’m running with it for now. Thanks for the heads-up!
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