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Old 03-17-2020, 12:22 PM   #1
knomadd
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Nice fix. Didn't your bracket come with a belt? Mine did. I can look at the part number later if you need it. Let me know.
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Old 03-18-2020, 06:58 PM   #2
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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The truck looks great, Chris....amazing transformation....its come a long way!
Thanks man! Still lots more to go...
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Nice fix. Didn't your bracket come with a belt? Mine did. I can look at the part number later if you need it. Let me know.
No belt with mine, but I bought bracket only, not the kit. From reading, it sounds like the DD compressor is a knockoff and I found a good deal on a new Sanden. I did finally get a belt on it after measuring twice and only two trips to the LAPS
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Old 03-18-2020, 09:06 PM   #3
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
From reading, it sounds like the DD compressor is a knockoff
It was a look a like as of a couple years ago anyhow. I had one and sent it back because of it.

Your engine turned out awesome.
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Old 03-20-2020, 07:09 PM   #4
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Look at you and your fancy cool air maker thingy....
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Old 03-27-2020, 09:35 PM   #5
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
Thanks man! Still lots more to go...

No belt with mine, but I bought bracket only, not the kit. From reading, it sounds like the DD compressor is a knockoff and I found a good deal on a new Sanden. I did finally get a belt on it after measuring twice and only two trips to the LAPS
Could you share which Sanden compressor you used? Never mind I think I found it. Thanks

Last edited by BustedTruck; 03-27-2020 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Nevermind I think I found it. Thanks
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Old 03-27-2020, 11:21 PM   #6
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Looks Awesome.
Thanks!
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Could you share which Sanden compressor you used? Never mind I think I found it. Thanks
SD7B10, model 7176, if you’re still looking
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Old 03-28-2020, 06:59 PM   #7
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

With the driveshaft tunnel complete, it was time to move on to the high hump. First order of business: fill the Muncie shifter hole. That was the easy part...
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Old 06-03-2020, 01:19 PM   #8
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
Thanks man! Still lots more to go...

No belt with mine, but I bought bracket only, not the kit. From reading, it sounds like the DD compressor is a knockoff and I found a good deal on a new Sanden. I did finally get a belt on it after measuring twice and only two trips to the LAPS
Huh, weird. I didn't buy a kit with the compressor either, but I got a belt with mine. Brackets, tensioner, hardware and belt.
Sorry it took so long to respond, haven't been on since my last post and your thread has added 4 pages of stuff since then. Glad you didn't need the part number.

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It was supposed to just be a simple coilover upgrade... ...the snowball is in full effect...
Snowball??? It's about the size of that boulder from the Indiana Jones film now, isn't it?
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Old 07-06-2020, 09:26 PM   #9
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Snowball??? It's about the size of that boulder from the Indiana Jones film now, isn't it?
...and just as ominous. I knew better, but I did it anyway...

Few little things I’ve been able to get knocked out: first, I ordered the Dakota Digital mounting bracket from Dead End Garage. It comes raw and undrilled, so I tapped it for stainless hardware and slapped some rattle can satin black on it. Mounts up nice and saves me having to make something; in this case it was deemed worth the money.

Also got started on the exhaust; now that all of the other major components are in place, I can figure out where to snake it through. I decided on an x-pipe this time, and it was a chore threading it around the trans x-member, driveshaft loop, and through the cutouts in the trailing arm x-member. I’m calling it good enough for now, and it is stubbed and ready to start the rear (difficult) section.
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Old 03-21-2020, 10:29 AM   #10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Just checking in...
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Old 03-25-2020, 02:24 PM   #11
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Your engine turned out awesome.
Thanks man, pretty happy with how it’s turning out. Just a few minor tweaks and I’ll consider it “done”.
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Look at you and your fancy cool air maker thingy....
Haha, way too much head-scratching spent getting the silly thing in there...
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Just checking in...
I’m still chipping away. Here it is sitting in the rear bumpstops to check clearance for the driveshaft, wheel tubs, and over-the-axle exhaust. Kinda makes me want to “air-out” the front just to see what it would look like:
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Old 03-25-2020, 11:42 PM   #12
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

You know you can swap out those pesky coil-overs for Shockwaves, right?
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Old 03-26-2020, 09:25 PM   #13
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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You know you can swap out those pesky coil-overs for Shockwaves, right?
No bags right now, this was supposed to be a simple suspension upgrade
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Old 03-26-2020, 11:31 PM   #14
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Simple...... Pfff.
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Old 03-27-2020, 12:59 AM   #15
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Going from a 7.5” ride height to 4 will close some gaps.
Will you have to run your tunnel all the way to the hump ?
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Old 03-27-2020, 09:19 AM   #16
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Simple...... Pfff.
It was supposed to just be a simple coilover upgrade with mild dropmember and a NoLimit rear kit, until Nathan Porter got in my ear. He was right, I would have never been happy with the mild setup. Add the LS swap into the mix and it’s gotten out of control. Glad I went this way, but the snowball is in full effect...
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Going from a 7.5” ride height to 4 will close some gaps.
Will you have to run your tunnel all the way to the hump ?
Definitely have lots of things competing for the same space when you get this low. The driveshaft tunnel runs from the rib behind the high hump to the rear cab wall. The hump itself will also need clearancing for the quite large TKO to sit at the correct driveline angle.
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:37 PM   #17
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

...and here it is all complete. Fully seam welded, etch primed, seam sealed, and undercoated. I used the factory-style brush technique on the sealer, though if I had it to do again, I’d probably just use my finger to smooth it. Thankfully it will be buried under insulation, carpet, and a seat
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:58 PM   #18
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Nicely done. Even on the 64-66's the floor needs clearance on a 1pc. driveshaft. I also had to make the trans-hump a 1pc deal vs. the 64-66 2pc set-up.
Similar but different. I used flat sheet to form my parts since it was easier to source locally....
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Old 03-27-2020, 06:31 PM   #19
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looks Awesome.
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Old 03-29-2020, 10:37 PM   #20
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Nice job! I agree with Scoti, I think the stock carpet will fit close enough with the seat right there.
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Old 03-29-2020, 10:58 PM   #21
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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I like it. Very creative. I bet your getting excited to drive this thing again!
It’s modern art So ready to be driving. I need to build my punch list, the end is near, I can feel it.
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I'm betting 'high-hump' carpet will cover it fine. The area would be right in front of the seat edge so I bet that will help camouflage any irregularity.
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Nice job! I agree with Scoti, I think the stock carpet will fit close enough with the seat right there.
Fingers crossed, guys; I’m hoping it isn't too far off. I’m thinking with it being under the seat, maybe a little steam and some creative insulation application will be enough to make it work. This is honestly way less intrusive than it looked in my brain
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Old 03-29-2020, 11:51 PM   #22
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looking good!! When you are done welding that high hump, you will hardly be able to tell it has been modified.
As per you having to raise your bench seat 2". Will you still fit in the truck with that raised up? I know I would not be able to fit in my truck if I raised the seat even 1" (6'2" tall). Just something to think about.
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Old 03-30-2020, 11:09 AM   #23
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Looking good!! When you are done welding that high hump, you will hardly be able to tell it has been modified.
As per you having to raise your bench seat 2". Will you still fit in the truck with that raised up? I know I would not be able to fit in my truck if I raised the seat even 1" (6'2" tall). Just something to think about.
Thanks, that’s the idea, like GM did it, but different. The seat should only have to come up a half inch, and only on the rear mounts. So really it’s only tilting forward just a little bit. I sat in it with a couple of 3/4” pieces of wood under the legs and it seemed ok. You are right though, not much wiggle room in there for us tall guys.
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Old 03-30-2020, 11:22 AM   #24
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I'm not familiar with the 88-98 bench that you are using, but is there a way to clearance the back bar of the seat frame enough to allow you to not have to raise it? Maybe dimple the tube with a BFH?
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Old 03-30-2020, 11:49 AM   #25
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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I'm not familiar with the 88-98 bench that you are using, but is there a way to clearance the back bar of the seat frame enough to allow you to not have to raise it? Maybe dimple the tube with a BFH?
Probably, though unfortunately the seat bottom upholstery wraps over and is attached to that particular beam.

I have already sectioned the side mounts, so it sits waaaay low, which is the only reason this is even an issue. Bumping it up a touch shouldn’t be a big deal. The spacers should disappear into the carpet/insulation.
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'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

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