Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Kim57]

Looking real good.
Wiring proposal sounds like it should work.
Kim

[G&R's57GMC]

Sounds good.

Have you considered a relay system for the headlights that will get direct battery power to the headlights so you can run modern brighter lamps at some point ?

This is what I have planned for all my classic cars and trucks.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

Sounds good.

Have you considered a relay system for the headlights that will get direct battery power to the headlights so you can run modern brighter lamps at some point ?

This is what I have planned for all my classic cars and trucks.

Hi Glen, Yes, I do plan to use relays for brighter headlights.

Before I started this frame off I had upgraded to Sylvania Silver Star headlights and they made a significant improvement. I have a set of never-installed headlight relays from an old 911 Porsche project I never installed before selling it. But once I started the tear down for IFS I never did the relay upgrade. They'll get used now. Thanks for the good suggestion!

[ptc]

Dan the painted parts are looking great! I dont see the burgundy so much as you do live, and phone photos are not that great for color anyway. But it looks SHINY!

I just completed the wiring on mine with the Autowire harness and it worked out best like your guy says. Just mount the fuse box in the cab and then the FRONT, REAR and ENGINE harnesses' all go out from your fire wall. They are more than long enough to run them around everywhere after you get all the body panels onto the frame. The dash harness obviously stays right behind the dash area and connects to everything inside the truck cab.

looking great!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ptc

Dan the painted parts are looking great! I dont see the burgundy so much as you do live, and phone photos are not that great for color anyway. But it looks SHINY!

Thanks!
I got a little grief from some buddies that say vintage cars were never as shiny as modern base coat/clear coat paints make them. They're probably right, but I don't care. I love shiny!

Originally Posted by ptc

....then the FRONT, REAR and ENGINE harnesses' all go out from your fire wall.....

Perish the thought. THROUGH my firewall? After I filled over 50 holes in it? The wires will be hidden as much as possible. Lol

[ptc]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Perish the thought. THROUGH my firewall? After I filled over 50 holes in it? The wires will be hidden as much as possible. Lol

Well they go through the firewall behind where the inner fender well panels mount and go down towards the frame rails. Then you run the wires within the fender wells all the way around to the front radiator cross brace and you never see any of them. They will be hidden.

Ill post some pics up on my page for you to check out. It will look very clean.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks, but yes I know how they route so they're unseen.

My AC lines will also be mounted in the passenger wheel well to keep them from being seen. We'll use longer bolts for the inner-to-outer fender connection so that hangers will carry the AC lines safely out of the way of the tire/suspension travel.

[ChuckDriver]

Everything is looking great Dan!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks JJ!

I considered posting a separate thread; a poll thread, asking how guys have handled color selection of their core support & hood latch panel?

My firewall and inner fenders are totally smooth and body color. I haven't felt certain what I should do?

So far, I've decided to:
- Powder coat the core support black and the panel in body color red.
-Seems like it would look weird to do the panel in black when the rest is red.
- Also wouldn't look right to chrome the panel when my parts are polished, not chrome.
- Could do the core red too (as Mike suggests) but I want it to "recede" from view. I may paint the radiator black too so it also recedes when looking through the grill.

Any/all opinions and photos appreciated.

[ChuckDriver]

It's only my opinion, but I think it looks best when the radiator support and radiator are a satin black so it doesn't distract from the chrome grill.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for those pic's, JJ.

EXACTLY what I was looking for - in the same size, same orientation so I could make a true apples-to-apples comparison.

You're right, of course. Making the core support and radiator recede from view looks better. Maybe Mike is thinking what looks better when the truck is parked with the hood open - like he sees them in his shop everyday.

Thanks again. This confirms the decision I already made so now I don't have to wait-to-see the results.

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

It's only my opinion, but I think it looks best when the radiator support and radiator are a satin black so it doesn't distract from the chrome grill.

X2...Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Turns out Mike doesn't want the truck back to wire without the front clip installed. Soooo...that adds a week at least. There are some holes in the inner fenders that will be welded shut today (Saturday) then they have go to blasting/powdercoating Monday. That will take from a few days to a week plus, before they can go to the body shop for final massaging, priming and paint. While all that's s l o w l y taking place I'm asking Mike to finish welding up the small mods to the Corvette exhaust manifolds and send them out to Jet Hot coating. I'm TRYING to short cut the stuff near the end that eats up time.

But damn, everything adds so much time!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

Just a log update:
- Inner fender miscellaneous holes have been welded shut & delivered for sandblasting/powder coating dark red today.
- Window regulators have been blasted and are ready for pick up. I will paint them aluminum and lube them. The plastic rollers on them are missing some plastic. Anyone know a fix? Cut off their "axles", replace with a welded bolt, & maybe replace rollers with something like a Home Depot screen door roller or something from the McMaster Carr catalog?
- Fender struts & core support are blasted/powder coated satin black.
- Hood latch panel is blasted & powder coated dark red, ready for pick up.

[oldman3]

Checking things off the list, way to go...Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Checking things off the list, way to go...Jim

Yeah, but I'm getting frustrated. There are so many smaller things (compared to what's already been done) that eat so much time. The goal date was Memorial Day weekend which is like 5-6 weeks away and I'm sure we're not going to make it now.

[ChuckDriver]

Don't rush it Dan, you'll be much happier in the end!

[II_Slow]

I stopped setting a deadlines. Haven't missed one since! It just got to be an emotional drain missing specific milestones. Now I just roll with it. It will get done when it gets done.

[58CameoAZ]

All "Good Things" come to those who wait!
Ya, how many times have we heard that? But when you get that far we all get a
little anxious. Your truck will be worth the wait Dan, It is going to be awesome
when its all together and it is making its own "Rumbling" noise! with your foot
on the accelerator!

Allen

[Dan in Pasadena]

Wednesday April12, 2017

I think you guys are right about my deadlines. Went to the powdercoater today and found they'd powdercoated my hood latch panel black and the latch red. Was supposed to be the exact opposite. DOH! Now they have to start all over again, add days.

The inner fenders were being blasted while I was there. They'll be ready Friday.
I dropped off the hood hinges (satin black) and the seat sliders. Sliders will be blasted only to take off the rust. I'll spray them dull aluminum so they look new again.

[bobinbc]

Just keep checking things off the list and it will get done, Dan. Don't force it, this is something to enjoy.
Plan to go to the show you were going to take the truck to on Memorial Day but just relax and enjoy this last show. Once you have your truck done you will probably spend most of your time at shows answering questions and receiving compliments..... (and you won't want it out of your site Lol)

[Russell Ashley]

Dan, I second what the other guys have already said. Roll with it and let it happen, enjoy the project instead of letting it get you up tight. You will have the truck to enjoy for a long time so no need to rush it.
Also, you can buy new window regulators for $75 each side. I'm not sure how much money, time, and aggravation you will save by trying to find rollers repair your old ones. I just checked Bow Tie Bits but you might find them cheaper some where else.

[Flysocal]

As long as you are checking things off the list, you're moving forward. It will all be over soon and you will miss the process.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by bobinbc

Just keep checking things off the list and it will get done, Dan. Don't force it, this is something to enjoy.
Plan to go to the show you were going to take the truck to on Memorial Day but just relax and enjoy this last show. Once you have your truck done you will probably spend most of your time at shows answering questions and receiving compliments..... (and you won't want it out of your site Lol)

Thanks Bob. I don't have a show I'm planning to attend Memorial Day. I just sort of unofficially consider that the start of summer and want to have the truck to drive and play with.

If I take it, probably the first time it'll ever be at a show would be the Brothers show in July...maybe...if I'm in town - have to check my vacation plans.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

Dan, I second what the other guys have already said. Roll with it and let it happen, enjoy the project instead of letting it get you up tight. You will have the truck to enjoy for a long time so no need to rush it.
Also, you can buy new window regulators for $75 each side. I'm not sure how much money, time, and aggravation you will save by trying to find rollers repair your old ones. I just checked Bow Tie Bits but you might find them cheaper some where else.

Russ,
After searching, I've read some bad things about repop regulators. That some will strip their gears after relatively short use.

Over on another forum someone pointed out that replacement regulator rollers are available on LMC for only $2.95 ea. The tiny drawing they provide doesn't really give any detail other than to show there's a rivet that holds them in place. I don't have a factory assembly manual (yes, I SHOULD) but when I get my regulators back from the blaster I'll take a close look and see if it's just a matter of prying the rivets out and hammering the new ones in. If someone has a more detailed description/drawing of this, posting it would be very appreciated.

As an aside, after I found my hood latch had been mistakenly powder coated red I told Marcos I'd just buy a repop one cause they're cheap. He advised NOT to. His experience has been negative with almost all repop items for these trucks and especially latches of different kinds. So it went back to be re-blasted and coated black.

I actually think I will miss the fun and anticipation of working on a project. I find myself looking at other car and truck projects - not that I'll have much money to build one after this expense, lol. But incredibly I am learning a LOT just by watching in detail the progress of my truck.