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03-17-2020, 12:22 PM | #1 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Nice fix. Didn't your bracket come with a belt? Mine did. I can look at the part number later if you need it. Let me know.
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03-18-2020, 06:58 PM | #2 | |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
No belt with mine, but I bought bracket only, not the kit. From reading, it sounds like the DD compressor is a knockoff and I found a good deal on a new Sanden. I did finally get a belt on it after measuring twice and only two trips to the LAPS
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03-18-2020, 09:06 PM | #3 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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03-20-2020, 07:09 PM | #4 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Look at you and your fancy cool air maker thingy....
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03-27-2020, 09:35 PM | #5 | |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
Last edited by BustedTruck; 03-27-2020 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Nevermind I think I found it. Thanks |
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03-27-2020, 11:21 PM | #6 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Thanks!
SD7B10, model 7176, if you’re still looking
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03-28-2020, 06:59 PM | #7 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
With the driveshaft tunnel complete, it was time to move on to the high hump. First order of business: fill the Muncie shifter hole. That was the easy part...
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06-03-2020, 01:19 PM | #8 | |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
Sorry it took so long to respond, haven't been on since my last post and your thread has added 4 pages of stuff since then. Glad you didn't need the part number. Snowball??? It's about the size of that boulder from the Indiana Jones film now, isn't it?
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07-06-2020, 09:26 PM | #9 | |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
Few little things I’ve been able to get knocked out: first, I ordered the Dakota Digital mounting bracket from Dead End Garage. It comes raw and undrilled, so I tapped it for stainless hardware and slapped some rattle can satin black on it. Mounts up nice and saves me having to make something; in this case it was deemed worth the money. Also got started on the exhaust; now that all of the other major components are in place, I can figure out where to snake it through. I decided on an x-pipe this time, and it was a chore threading it around the trans x-member, driveshaft loop, and through the cutouts in the trailing arm x-member. I’m calling it good enough for now, and it is stubbed and ready to start the rear (difficult) section.
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03-21-2020, 10:29 AM | #10 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Just checking in...
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03-25-2020, 02:24 PM | #11 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Thanks man, pretty happy with how it’s turning out. Just a few minor tweaks and I’ll consider it “done”.
Haha, way too much head-scratching spent getting the silly thing in there... I’m still chipping away. Here it is sitting in the rear bumpstops to check clearance for the driveshaft, wheel tubs, and over-the-axle exhaust. Kinda makes me want to “air-out” the front just to see what it would look like:
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03-25-2020, 11:42 PM | #12 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
You know you can swap out those pesky coil-overs for Shockwaves, right?
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03-26-2020, 09:25 PM | #13 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
No bags right now, this was supposed to be a simple suspension upgrade
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03-26-2020, 11:31 PM | #14 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Simple...... Pfff.
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03-27-2020, 12:59 AM | #15 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Going from a 7.5” ride height to 4 will close some gaps.
Will you have to run your tunnel all the way to the hump ? |
03-27-2020, 09:19 AM | #16 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
It was supposed to just be a simple coilover upgrade with mild dropmember and a NoLimit rear kit, until Nathan Porter got in my ear. He was right, I would have never been happy with the mild setup. Add the LS swap into the mix and it’s gotten out of control. Glad I went this way, but the snowball is in full effect...
Definitely have lots of things competing for the same space when you get this low. The driveshaft tunnel runs from the rib behind the high hump to the rear cab wall. The hump itself will also need clearancing for the quite large TKO to sit at the correct driveline angle.
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03-27-2020, 01:37 PM | #17 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
...and here it is all complete. Fully seam welded, etch primed, seam sealed, and undercoated. I used the factory-style brush technique on the sealer, though if I had it to do again, I’d probably just use my finger to smooth it. Thankfully it will be buried under insulation, carpet, and a seat
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03-27-2020, 01:58 PM | #18 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Nicely done. Even on the 64-66's the floor needs clearance on a 1pc. driveshaft. I also had to make the trans-hump a 1pc deal vs. the 64-66 2pc set-up.
Similar but different. I used flat sheet to form my parts since it was easier to source locally....
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03-27-2020, 06:31 PM | #19 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Looks Awesome.
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03-29-2020, 10:37 PM | #20 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Nice job! I agree with Scoti, I think the stock carpet will fit close enough with the seat right there.
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03-29-2020, 10:58 PM | #21 | ||
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
Quote:
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03-29-2020, 11:51 PM | #22 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Looking good!! When you are done welding that high hump, you will hardly be able to tell it has been modified.
As per you having to raise your bench seat 2". Will you still fit in the truck with that raised up? I know I would not be able to fit in my truck if I raised the seat even 1" (6'2" tall). Just something to think about.
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03-30-2020, 11:09 AM | #23 | |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
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03-30-2020, 11:22 AM | #24 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
I'm not familiar with the 88-98 bench that you are using, but is there a way to clearance the back bar of the seat frame enough to allow you to not have to raise it? Maybe dimple the tube with a BFH?
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03-30-2020, 11:49 AM | #25 | |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
I have already sectioned the side mounts, so it sits waaaay low, which is the only reason this is even an issue. Bumping it up a touch shouldn’t be a big deal. The spacers should disappear into the carpet/insulation.
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