How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

[mcbassin]

Awesome progress on your truck Chris! Just getting caught up on the manual tranny install. VERY COOL!

I know it's tough to get out and drive with the virus and all but I'm wondering about your suspension setup and how you like it? Have you had it on the highway? two lane running 65 yet? Just curious how it handles bumps and hickups in the road?
I feel like I want to install coil overs on my truck just not sure yet. I will remain static either way. I may just have to raise it up a bit..... I'm tired of hitting asphalt with my stock control arms. stay safe out there

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Awesome progress on your truck Chris! Just getting caught up on the manual tranny install. VERY COOL!

I know it's tough to get out and drive with the virus and all but I'm wondering about your suspension setup and how you like it? Have you had it on the highway? two lane running 65 yet? Just curious how it handles bumps and hickups in the road?
I feel like I want to install coil overs on my truck just not sure yet. I will remain static either way. I may just have to raise it up a bit..... I'm tired of hitting asphalt with my stock control arms. stay safe out there

One of the best things about aftermarket raised x-members (or pancaked OE units) is the additional ground clearance @ the lowered heights.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Awesome progress on your truck Chris! Just getting caught up on the manual tranny install. VERY COOL!

I know it's tough to get out and drive with the virus and all but I'm wondering about your suspension setup and how you like it? Have you had it on the highway? two lane running 65 yet? Just curious how it handles bumps and hickups in the road?
I feel like I want to install coil overs on my truck just not sure yet. I will remain static either way. I may just have to raise it up a bit..... I'm tired of hitting asphalt with my stock control arms. stay safe out there

No real drive time on it yet, still lots to do before she’s road worthy. From the little bit I’ve driven around the neighborhood, it feels really good, but it’s tough to judge without a proper alignment, interior, exhaust, wiring, etc. People who have bagged dropmembers rave about the ride/drive—this should be a similar experience, I hope.

Definitely do your homework if you decide to do a bolt on coilover kit. I’ve looked at a bunch and most don’t offer much in the way of ground clearance, and some of them are actually worse than stock. Tubular arms alone that will accommodate stock type coil springs will buy you an extra inch or so, mainly due to the smaller diameter bushings.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

One of the best things about aftermarket raised x-members (or pancaked OE units) is the additional ground clearance @ the lowered heights.

Couldn’t agree more. This was one of the determining factors in wanting to do a crossmember versus arms only. Somewhere along the way, I lost sight of that and instead of moving everything up out of the way, I brought the whole truck down...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

No real drive time on it yet, still lots to do before she’s road worthy. From the little bit I’ve driven around the neighborhood, it feels really good, but it’s tough to judge without a proper alignment, interior, exhaust, wiring, etc. People who have bagged dropmembers rave about the ride/drive—this should be a similar experience, I hope.

Definitely do your homework if you decide to do a bolt on coilover kit. I’ve looked at a bunch and most don’t offer much in the way of ground clearance, and some of them are actually worse than stock. Tubular arms alone that will accommodate stock type coil springs will buy you an extra inch or so, mainly due to the smaller diameter bushings.


Couldn’t agree more. This was one of the determining factors in wanting to do a crossmember versus arms only. Somewhere along the way, I lost sight of that and instead of moving everything up out of the way, I brought the whole truck down...

Truth. There needs to be a happy medium or you fight the same battle. I like trucks @ a 6/8 drop that have the uncompromised drivability of one @ stock height. The aftermarket x-members def help minimize the compromises.

[mcbassin]

No real drive time on it yet, still lots to do before she’s road worthy. From the little bit I’ve driven around the neighborhood, it feels really good, but it’s tough to judge without a proper alignment, interior, exhaust, wiring, etc. People who have bagged dropmembers rave about the ride/drive—this should be a similar experience, I hope.

Definitely do your homework if you decide to do a bolt on coilover kit. I’ve looked at a bunch and most don’t offer much in the way of ground clearance, and some of them are actually worse than stock. Tubular arms alone that will accommodate stock type coil springs will buy you an extra inch or so, mainly due to the smaller diameter bushings.

Thanks for info, Chris. Right now, I'm on standbye with doing any upgrades. Just trying to get intel from people that have actually installed coil overs. I have a few friends locally that are enjoying theirs. However, they dropped a ton of cash on the parts...
Stay safe out there bud.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Thanks for info, Chris. Right now, I'm on standbye with doing any upgrades. Just trying to get intel from people that have actually installed coil overs. I have a few friends locally that are enjoying theirs. However, they dropped a ton of cash on the parts...
Stay safe out there bud.

Take a look at the CPP front kit. They seem to have addressed the ground clearance problem that other coilover kits have. Typically, the coilover is long, due to construction using an upper and lower hat on the shock body, which forces the lower arm to have a pocket or bracket hanging down. CPP moves the upper spring hat to the crossmember, while keeping the lower adjustable hat on the shock body. Really it’s more like a strut setup than a traditional coilover, but takes care of the packaging dilemma handily.

Out back, I really like the adjustability of the QA1 setup and the outboard mounting of the coilovers is inherently more stable and allows for longer shocks than an inboard setup.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Take a look at the CPP front kit. They seem to have addressed the ground clearance problem that other coilover kits have. Typically, the coilover is long, due to construction using an upper and lower hat on the shock body, which forces the lower arm to have a pocket or bracket hanging down. CPP moves the upper spring hat to the crossmember, while keeping the lower adjustable hat on the shock body. Really it’s more like a strut setup than a traditional coilover, but takes care of the packaging dilemma handily.

Out back, I really like the adjustability of the QA1 setup and the outboard mounting of the coilovers is inherently more stable and allows for longer shocks than an inboard setup.

Thanks for the information Chris. I will take a look at the CPP and QA1.

[Inverter]

StitchMaster. Beautiful approach for that transition.
Are you using rolocs for finish work ?

[doowoppwer]

certainly a lot of creativity. thanks for sharing. roger

[smbrouss70]

Nice!

[Joseog83]

Awesome!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Well done.

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

Nice!

Originally Posted by Joseog83

Awesome!

Thanks dudes!

I moved to the engine bay for a bit while I wait for more sound deadener and new carpet to arrive in the mail. I decided that I wanted to delete the knock sensors and oil filler cap, simply because they were an eyesore to me. I used a smooth valley cover, and drilled a hole for a fixed-orifice PCV, which more closely mimics the late model LS engines from the factory, but kept it hidden behind the intake.

Need to paint my air cleaner and put everything back together and I think I may actually be done with this engine (for now), maybe?...

[cornerstone]

You're gonna confuse all sorts of folks when you pop the hood. Just when I'm convinced your LS is the coolest... you make it cooler.

What kind of deadener are you ordering and where? I need to get some more too. So far I'm leaning toward Noico 80 mil on Amazon... 36 sq. ft. for 67 bucks

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

You're gonna confuse all sorts of folks when you pop the hood. Just when I'm convinced your LS is the coolest... you make it cooler.

What kind of deadener are you ordering and where? I need to get some more too. So far I'm leaning toward Noico 80 mil on Amazon... 36 sq. ft. for 67 bucks

Thanks man Sound deadener, I was looking at Noico, but I ordered 80 mil “Siless” brand from eBay, 36 sq ft for $49. The cheap stuff all seems to be made in the same place, somewhere in the Ukraine. Reviews on this were just as good as any of them, but at a significant discount (even cheaper than Peel and Seal from Lowes).

[aggie91]

I used the Siless 80mil stuff too. I got it off Amazon. Mine looked a bit different than yours in the picture above. Mine had squares embossed on the foil side. I used a Noico metal roller to put mine down. The roller had a grooved pattern that left impressions in the foil to help show where you had rolled over the material.

So far it seems to work well, my son has been driving the truck with it installed, but no carpet and it has made a difference over the stock jute pad and carpet.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I used the Siless 80mil stuff too. I got it off Amazon. Mine looked a bit different than yours in the picture above. Mine had squares embossed on the foil side. I used a Noico metal roller to put mine down. The roller had a grooved pattern that left impressions in the foil to help show where you had rolled over the material.

So far it seems to work well, my son has been driving the truck with it installed, but no carpet and it has made a difference over the stock jute pad and carpet.

Good to hear it’s decent stuff, looks like a nice install there. What you see in the pictures above is Peel and Seal, which has worked well for me in the past, but I plan on doing most of the cab, so it made more sense (and fewer cents) to order a box of the Siless.

[gringoloco]

Lots of time spent doing things which amount to minor progress The Siless sound deadener arrived and laid out nicely; I covered the floor and rear cab wall and am saving a few sheets to apply inside the doors when I tear them apart for new seals. Still need to hit the whole business with the seam roller to make it permanent. Carpet soon???

Also spent an embarrassing amount of time cutting, bending, drilling, and painting a universal driveshaft safety loop to fit just behind the front u-joint. I don’t ever anticipate being fast enough to need one per NHRA standards, but it makes me feel better with the driveshaft spinning only inches beneath my ass...

[KMC3420]

Haha, nicely done! The loop looks top notch.

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Haha, nicely done! The loop looks top notch.

I second this!!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Haha, nicely done! The loop looks top notch.

Originally Posted by kehstr

I second this!!

Thanks guys! Happy to be done with that and moving on

[STOCKISH]

Killer job, the smooth valley cover makes a huge difference. Are you going to relocate the knock sensors or delete all together?

[shearjs]

Where did you end up mounting your Term X computer? I don’t remember seeing it anywhere.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by STOCKISH

Killer job, the smooth valley cover makes a huge difference. Are you going to relocate the knock sensors or delete all together?

Thanks, I think it looks a LOT better. Knock sensors are deleted for now. The Holley programming has them turned off and it is a bit of a programming puzzle to get them working properly with an aftermarket cam. I’m not against adding them back later, probably to the sides of the block.

Originally Posted by shearjs

Where did you end up mounting your Term X computer? I don’t remember seeing it anywhere.

It’s just sitting on the passenger floorboard for now, in a snake’s nest of temporary wires. I have yet to decide if it’s going under the seat or in the glovebox. Guess I need to figure that out before I lay carpet...

[SCOTI]

My thought is whatever is easiest.... to access.

[shearjs]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Thanks, I think it looks a LOT better. Knock sensors are deleted for now. The Holley programming has them turned off and it is a bit of a programming puzzle to get them working properly with an aftermarket cam. I’m not against adding them back later, probably to the sides of the block.

It’s just sitting on the passenger floorboard for now, in a snake’s nest of temporary wires. I have yet to decide if it’s going under the seat or in the glovebox. Guess I need to figure that out before I lay carpet...

I should have looked a little closer and I would have noticed your snake nest. I’m getting close on my wiring now and I think I’m shooting for under the seat on the drivers side.