Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[solidaxel]

Yup, sure does !
Just the facts, man!!

[nlped]

[NastyBuzzard]

Trying to ressurect the dead here... I have a 1987 GMC V1500 4x4 long bed, 350 TBI/700R4 combo. When I bought this truck 10 years ago it was a beast! It had bottom end power for days! All that low end torque was great, would spin tires and be all kinds of fun! Even after cat converter was clogged and it backfired and burnt up the rings it still had great power. Now its not even a hint of what it used to be.

This truck and I have been on a loooong ride and a few motors including a built 400hp carbed engine but I wanted to go back to stock.

Recently, I rebuilt an engine out of a 92 C1500. It was bored .030" over w/ flat top pistons. I put a vortec roller cam in it as well with stock 193 swirl port heads. I added longtube headers and a heated o2 sensor. Also rebuilt trans, new oem style torque converter, new tcc switch, added transgo shift kit w/ corvette servos. I also switched to electric fans from a new body style impala. TBI injector pod spacer and ultimate throttle body mod. Stock 7747 ecm w/ no tune.

Also due to having to replace transfer case, we got one out of a 91 blazer and swapped over the instrument cluster as well. So i have electric speedo with drac mod and all that already, I even swapped in a 5k tach from an older model chevy.

First started driving it, the truck had hardly any bottom end power, so I swapped from 3.08 gears to 3.42s and it didn't help much with a 32" tall tire. Nothing like the original engine was.

I can't seem to get this dang TBI setup to run correctly and have been fighting with it for over a year and havn't even got 10k miles on this setup. It has hardly any bottom end power, and is having an issue where it shifts around 45 into OD and locks tc up and drops to about 1250 rpms and has to struggle to get the rpms back up.

I have now found a 01 Silverado ext cab 5.3/4l60e 4x4 that I am trying to pickup for 1k. It is the whole truck minus bed, fenders, hood, and rad core support. It was abondoned at a buddys shop so they just started parting it out and are now looking to get rid of it. It cranks up and drives still and has around 150k miles on it.

So I guess I will be tossing the TBI for the LS vortec engine. I read this whole thread over the course of 3 days.

Also due to fuel tank switching valve failing about 6 monts ago I have a new one of those as well. Will it need to be replaced?

Any advice guys? Also, any issues you can foresee since my trucks 4x4? Also A/c will be one of my least worries but I may try to get that all working if I can.

I am looking for a good reliable setup that will get great mpgs and allow me to tow/haul decently. My playing in the mud days have been long gone. I even took the 4" lift off and have went back to stock height when I swapped the 3.42 gears front and rear.

[Flatpat]

If you have dual tanks here is a diagram of what you need.

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/Instruction.../dualtank.html

Since the LS based vortec is a high pressure fuel system you will need to change the tank selector valve for a high pressure unit. I believe this one will work: Pollak 42-159

You can get an adapter to hang your current transfer case behind the 4l60e to keep your current passenger side drop setup.

If you keep a stock (for the 87) AC system then there isn't much to worry about since the AC isn't electronically controlled through the computer. Well other than hanging your R4 compressor on the front of the motor. Pretty sure you can buy brackets for that or I've seen brackets from an S-10 modified to work.

I threw a 5.3 in my 88 Jimmy, it was pretty easy and it is awesome in the mud.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

If you have dual tanks here is a diagram of what you need.

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/Instruction.../dualtank.html

Since the LS based vortec is a high pressure fuel system you will need to change the tank selector valve for a high pressure unit. I believe this one will work: Pollak 42-159

You can get an adapter to hang your current transfer case behind the 4l60e to keep your current passenger side drop setup.

If you keep a stock (for the 87) AC system then there isn't much to worry about since the AC isn't electronically controlled through the computer. Well other than hanging your R4 compressor on the front of the motor. Pretty sure you can buy brackets for that or I've seen brackets from an S-10 modified to work.

I threw a 5.3 in my 88 Jimmy, it was pretty easy and it is awesome in the mud.

I actually have the serpentine setup & a/c setup from the 92 truck. I got rid of the vbelts when I did this motor, plus that compressor I have from the 92 is shot, the plug on the back was broken off.

I was worried about the transfer case, I will be getting all that from the truck but the ds is on the wrong side I think.

I was hoping I didn't have to buy another fuel selector valve since mine is brand new but oh well. Thanks for the Pollak PN!! I looked at the pollak is that the same as auto zones p/n FSV1 or FSV2? I remember when I got my FSV2 it had pollack on it.

What about headers or manifolds? Can I use stock manifolds and maybe notch frame a hair? Or are there any heads that will fit 4x4?

What setup are you running in the 88 jimmy trans and gear wise? What tcase did you use? My tcase is from the 91 k5 blazer.

[Flatpat]

Not sure about Auto Zone part numbers. I'm sure they will be able to tell you with the Pollak number.

I didn't get the trans with the motor so I stayed with 700r4 208 and 3.73s.

I used the stock manifolds, the driver's side kind of point in to the frame. Just have to have a bend in the pipe connecting to it to bring it back out.

Here is some more on getting a factory style AC compressor to work.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=510656

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

Not sure about Auto Zone part numbers. I'm sure they will be able to tell you with the Pollak number.

I didn't get the trans with the motor so I stayed with 700r4 208 and 3.73s.

I used the stock manifolds, the driver's side kind of point in to the frame. Just have to have a bend in the pipe connecting to it to bring it back out.

Here is some more on getting a factory style AC compressor to work.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=510656

Thanks for that! I may just stick with stock manifolds then instead of trying to fight with high priced longtube headers.

I am currently running 700r4 but it was rebuilt to stock for that truck, but I do have the newer transfer case from a 91 k5 blazer. 241 I think with electric speedo output.

I am really looking forward to getting all this done. Trying to make out plans and a budget so I dont get too far ahead of myself and spend $$ I dont have.

[Flatpat]

If the '91 NP 241 is a 27 spline input it should bolt up in place of the current transfer case on the 4l60e. You'll need to provide the PCM a low range switch signal. Visit lt1swap.com a lot of information there.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

If the '91 NP 241 is a 27 spline input it should bolt up in place of the current transfer case on the 4l60e. You'll need to provide the PCM a low range switch signal. Visit lt1swap.com a lot of information there.

Low range switch signal. I will have to remember that.

I will double check on the tcase.

[dwcardfan]

Hey guys what pump can I use in the tank of a 87 to give me enough pressure for a 5.3 lsx swap?

[shippman]

Originally Posted by Flatpat

If you have dual tanks here is a diagram of what you need.

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/Instruction.../dualtank.html

Since the LS based vortec is a high pressure fuel system you will need to change the tank selector valve for a high pressure unit. I believe this one will work: Pollak 42-159

You can get an adapter to hang your current transfer case behind the 4l60e to keep your current passenger side drop setup.

If you keep a stock (for the 87) AC system then there isn't much to worry about since the AC isn't electronically controlled through the computer. Well other than hanging your R4 compressor on the front of the motor. Pretty sure you can buy brackets for that or I've seen brackets from an S-10 modified to work.

I threw a 5.3 in my 88 Jimmy, it was pretty easy and it is awesome in the mud.

I am watching this build very closely... so keep up the great info. However, Flatpat... my browser protection won't let me go to your link about "dual tank wiring". Anybody else have the same problem? Find anything bad about the site?

Mike

[tobiahr]

[shippman]

Thanks!! That will work.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by dwcardfan

Hey guys what pump can I use in the tank of a 87 to give me enough pressure for a 5.3 lsx swap?

I used a pump (new) from a 2002 Camaro with a LS in my 5.3 and it works great.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by dwcardfan

Hey guys what pump can I use in the tank of a 87 to give me enough pressure for a 5.3 lsx swap?

I used a pump (new) from a 2002 Camaro with a LS in my 5.3 and it works great.

[85 Money Pit]

subscribe.......

[ccreddell]

Dont think the OP has posted to this thread for over 2 years...

[SatisTraction]

did I miss the AC compressor manifold part numbers somewhere? I would really like them.

thanks

[COOP3726]

I have the ac hoses hooked up, but concerned with the wiring hookup. I need help with the wiring. Not sure what wire goes where. Can you help? Thanks.

[Jaybob]

https://coldhose.com/catalog/product...g/category/39/

Docsblocks.com is no longer around, but coldhose.com is.

"AA2209" and "AA2210" is what you need. "AA2209-AA2210" is the combined part number.



GM 5.3L Compressor Discharge and Suction Block Fittings
Part #AA2209-AA2210

GM 5.3L Compressor Blocks
Fits Denso 10S17F Compressors on the GM 5.3L Engines
GM 5.3L Compressor Discharge and Suction Block Fittings

[benscool1]

It's been awhile since I've read through the whole bread and I tried skimming through it but couldn't find the answer to my question in the 77 pages. Using the plates like Glocks did will I have to change my oil pan or will the factory truck pan fit?

I really like how with the plates he made Glock was able to keep the factory low mount a/c, reuse his original driveshaft and shifter linkage, and keep the original clutch fan in the 73-87 shroud. All of that really helps my build budget. But one thing I hadn't considered until I picked up my 5.3 a couple days ago was the oil pan clearance. Does anybody know if it will fit?

[Jaybob]

Benscool1

No the factory pan will work just fine. Look at how I did mine. Puts the engine nice and far back where you want it. The original belhousing position. Most other plates set the engine forward 3/4" to 1".

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEGeq1ytH_V/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEGeHqmNH-J/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BDyNlRMNH6w/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BC-uJz8tHxO/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BC-tmVFNHwQ/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BC-tS-0NH_r/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BFxpO4ut...olfandwildfire

To keep the original bellhousing location:
With the Dougs Headers SK100 mounts, you have to move the motor mount saddles that go from the frame to the crossmember back 3/4". You just have to drill 3 additional holes per side 3/4" back from originals.

To keep the original vortec truck ac compressor:
You have to move the motor mounts back 2 1/4" back the engine and frame. I found it easiest to flip the mounting plates and redrill the tapped holes to a new location. One factory clamshell bolt hole lines up with one LS bolt hole. The motor mount saddles were then widened the same 2 1/4" that the motor mounts were moved on the engine. All this does is move the motor mounts back on the engine. This don't change the engine location in the engine bay if you move the mounts and widen the motor mount saddles the same amount.

What I did - Kept the factory bellhousing position while using the factory LS truck AC system. This was done by moving motor mounts on engine back 2 1/4" on both sides. Then I removed and widened my motor mount frame to crossmember saddles 2 1/4" using a donor sent and welding them together. I also redrilled my frame and crossmember and moved the new widened saddles back 3/4" from the original position using the factory holes as a guide. This puts the engine in the origianl bellhousing location and as far back as you would ever want to go unless you want to start messing with the firewall. I used patriot 73-87 swap headers and they fit perfectly. I did a slight change to my shift linkage to make it easier to run my exhaust.

I am going to use the cold hose adapters to avoid having the notch the frame out for the factory ac lines.

Hope this helps.

[benscool1]

Thanks Jaybob, I appreciate it. Looks like you achieved the same end result Glock did, just went about it a little differently. Awesome work!

[Jaybob]

Interesting tidbit:

The bellhousing extenion on an Gen 3 and Gen 4 LS motor (4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, 7.0) is shorter than a GEN 1 and Gen 2 SBC (262, 265, 267, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400). There is approximately a ~7/16 difference between bellhousig extension and crank flange between the LS and SBC. The LS is shorter, the SBC is longer. Also the position of the cylinders relative to the bellhousing is different. The cylinders in an LS block are also approximately ~7/16" closer to the bellhousing. This means the cylinders are actually ~3/4" close the transmission in an LS motor than an SBC. So even with a longer water pump on the from, they still have similar or better radiator clearance.

[benscool1]

You've done your homework my friend! Lol