Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by Jaybob

Interesting tidbit:

The bellhousing extenion on an Gen 3 and Gen 4 LS motor (4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, 7.0) is shorter than a GEN 1 and Gen 2 SBC (262, 265, 267, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400). There is approximately a ~7/16 difference between bellhousig extension and crank flange between the LS and SBC. The LS is shorter, the SBC is longer. Also the position of the cylinders relative to the bellhousing is different. The cylinders in an LS block are also approximately ~7/16" closer to the bellhousing. This means the cylinders are actually ~3/4" close the transmission in an LS motor than an SBC. So even with a longer water pump on the from, they still have similar or better radiator clearance.

The way you've done it, is the motor as far back as it'll go without firewall interference?

[Jaybob]

Yes, you couldn't go back another 1/2"!

[crakarjax]

I'm running an f-body pan and I'm wondering if I could go back even farther by dropping the engine down a bit. How far is the bottom of your truck pan from the crossmember?

[Palf70Step]

I hope most of you realize that glock..... has not been on the board for many years, and last I heard I don't think he has this truck anymore.

[STOCKISH]

Trucks been sold for a long time.

[crakarjax]

That's ok, we can pick up where he left off

[Jaybob]

I don't think very much. The firewall is pretty flat fight there. The passenger side cylinder head will hit the fire wall. My truck pan probably hangs an inch below the crossmember. You will have to dent the firewall to go back further I think.

[G-NUT]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Can you say..... "like butta??!!"

I got the door alignment tool today. Ran to the shop like a little kid when I got home to try it. Stuck it on the truck, use my long Snap-On 1/2" ratchet, and gave it a good firm pull up. Took it off and..... butta!

Take two fingers and give it a fling, and it shuts tight!

Saweet!!!!!!!

I know this is an old post and this is likely a stupid question but I recently bought this same tool off Amazon, I haven't used it yet, but how does it work? I mean when you lift up on it with a breaker bar or the like, don't you have to get to the door hing bolts to tighten them up? How do you get to them when doing this without having a fender off?

[nlped]

I bought this tool after Bob posted about it many moons ago. You don’t have to loosen the hinge bolts. You literally are ‘tweeking’ the existing hinge arrangement.

[G-NUT]

Originally Posted by nlped

I bought this tool after Bob posted about it many moons ago. You don’t have to loosen the hinge bolts. You literally are ‘tweeking’ the existing hinge arrangement.

Thanks for that quick response. I now have a '84 burb. I'll try it on one of the doors.