'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[Frizzle Fry]

You may be wondering what the heck I did with that week in the shop..?

I literally spent so much time in the shop that I didn't have time to update the thread. But the camera was snappin away as always. So here it is...

Trans tunnel/shifter cover flushification:

Bolt on cover




Now a flush mounted cover






Add S2000 boor flange




With shifter (small holes in tunnel fixed later)


Tunnel will be body-worked and painted

[Frizzle Fry]

More lead work. This consumed a lot of time both in the actual process and in researching and buying tools and materials. In the end I had some success and some failure, but it was worth figuring out.

Prep:



Tinning flux


Tinned




Radius form:






Worked radius




This area needed more added around the edges. The problem with adding more lead later is that the area is no longer tinned if it's been filed/sculpted. Here was my attempt at re-tinning around the edges. After this I ended up removing the lead from the fender.

[Frizzle Fry]

Passenger side patch:












Not going for perfection here since it will be leaded.










Just like the other side:








Lead(free)




How to deal with this area (can't use this on regular if you like your sanity)




I guess the only finished shots I got were inverted, but you get the idea...


It will need a little glaze.

[Frizzle Fry]

Trans Mount-

I had mocked this up by drilling/tapping the "frame rails," but knew it would need to be reinforced. Here's how that went:

Cut open rail


Make plates (note broken tap )




Plasma out broken tap (haha I win )




First piece in


Align 2nd piece and cover










Trans mount in place (other side already mod'ed for exhaust clearance)

[Frizzle Fry]

While I had the tap set out I made some shoulder belt mounts for the rear:

[Frizzle Fry]

Made blood happen while prepping this patch (previously mentioned front inner fender spot)


It was actually just a tiny puncture in a large vessel (squirter)


Luckily my apprentice and future successor was there to save my life before getting back to work.




He's prep'ing old engine tag mount holes for welding.

[Frizzle Fry]

Lot's of other minor details including pin holes and thin spots are now fixed. Spent some time tuning the fender arches into shape.

Last item worth showing is the rear wheel arch to rocker seam filling. Couldn't leave the seams in the rear when the fronts are gone








Trim inner edge for continuity:








No lead this time. Just a smear of glazing will do it up.

[El Campo]

Freaking beautiful. Always love seeing great metal working and welding happening as it seems to be lost on so many people. You really ARE going old school with the leading! Curious to see how that works with todays paint products.

[y5mgisi]

Great work as always!

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by El Campo

Freaking beautiful. Always love seeing great metal working and welding happening as it seems to be lost on so many people. You really ARE going old school with the leading! Curious to see how that works with todays paint products.

Thanks EC. The lead free body solder should be no different than clean metal as long as it's prep'ed properly. If not, yeh the acid in the flux/tinning would be a concern.

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Great work as always!

'Preciate it brother. Being in Portland there's a good chance you could see this anomaly on the road or at a cruise some day. It will be at PIR Beaches the first chance I get in 2015.

[Frizzle Fry]

In the spirit of 'git er dun' I plug welded these covers over the factory ebarake holes rather than my standard flush install (it will be under the carpet for God's sake)


Given the above, it was time to call it...

Rotisserie dropped down to transport mode:


Chariot awaits (again)

Driftbeam is now at the paint shop!!!

Next update will show the new color (yes I said new )

[watahyahknow]

[Palf70Step]

[C10_ustacould]

What ever will you do with your time while it is in the paint shop... TAHOE!!

[trixter99]

The Tahoe or the 61 I'm dying to see them done.

[knomadd]

Hoping to see some paint pics soon! All the work you've done is amazing! I want to see it finished!!!

[Low Elco]

Can't wait to see!

[Palf70Step]

Me3

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Next update will show the new color (yes I said new )

Something timeless I hope, like this?

[watahyahknow]

kindah liked the pastel colour that was on it , th not so bright / faded colour fits the year of the car

[76C10Stepside]

FF, what kind of welder do you use for those button welds? They look great!

I used a stud puller and bondo for the first time on this one. Only had to weld 3 tiny patches.

[Frizzle Fry]

this?
Attachment 1287331
[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=76C10Stepside;6794134]FF, what kind of welder do you use for those button welds? They look great!
/QUOTE]

Thanks. I plug weld with the same mig I use for everything else; my Miller 211.

[Frizzle Fry]

Just a quick update to show the color as promised. This is Raptor Liner tinted with the blue that will be used for the body. More detailed pics later (have to prep for a BBQ now).

[ajgriffin]

Looks amazing! Good luck with the paint!

All the original trim going back on it? Anything special in store for it?

[Frizzle Fry]

Thanks. I'm still planning to use all the trim with red between and a black top as original. I've been considering using the red from the audi RS badges.