1957 Chevy truck re-rebuild

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by dug224

Thanks for taking the time to explain what you are doing on the paint. It really helps. Great project. dug

Thanks for mentioning it. I'll keep on explaining as I post pictures.

Speaking of posting pictures, I just spent 3 hours downloading a new browser so I can get back to using Photobucket.

This is a test run, so here goes.

Still working on the block sanding, I've got 180 grit wrapped around 3 paint sticks taped together. Got a sponge to keep the area wet, and the dog supervising. The idea is to follow the contour of the fender trying to knock down any high spots.

[Stepside Jim]

Well, still sanding........One time consuming project is getting the door jams smoothed. I've pretty well filled and smoothed the spot welds and the overlapping metal panels.

Nothing like a clean rag and a spray of auto detailer to clean the door jams later.

[fat56]

Looking really nice. Im just about to attach this on my truck, not looking forward to it but it sure does clean the door jams up alot.

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by fat56

Looking really nice. Im just about to attach this on my truck, not looking forward to it but it sure does clean the door jams up alot.

Hey fat56, half way around the world, aint this something. I've run a build thread on a different forum on a different truck. An other fello from your area and I joked on how many of my neighbors have no clue of what's in my shop, yet people all around the world get a close up view.

Thanks for checking too. Jim

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by Stepside Jim

Well, still sanding........One time consuming project is getting the door jams smoothed. I've pretty well filled and smoothed the spot welds and the overlapping metal panels.

Nothing like a clean rag and a spray of auto detailer to clean the door jams later.

How did you do this? Filler, grinding, welding? Can you let us know in detail if possible?

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

How did you do this? Filler, grinding, welding? Can you let us know in detail if possible?

Mainly just filler. A couple spots of the overlaping metal had to be ground back for a flush fit before filling.

I haven't had any problems doing this before and looks nice when done. If anyone has had issues in the past please let us know.

Does require alot of finger sanding, sounds strange but Walmart strong strip bandaids on my finger tips really help. Gotta remember, I've finger sanded every runner on the foot steps and every ridge on the firewall also.

Thanks for checking in. Jim

[Kim57]

That sure is a nice looking jam.
Kim

[Stepside Jim]

Auuurgh, still block sanding..... prime, block, prime, block.......

But why, why prime, block, prime, block?

Pictures tell the story, here we go.

The high build primer is sprayed and dried. Then block sanded with 180 grit. Problem is, it's dull. The real problem is, when done and cleared, anything missed here will show later. We need to get a clear/shiney finish now.

Dull finish after sanding.


Here I've wet the surface with a pre cleaner, sometimes I'll just take water and wet the surface.


With a dull finish I couldn't see in detail to find the low spots. By running my hand over the finish I could hardly feel the low spot. It wasn't till I used the reflection of the shop stripe on the wall to see this deflection of the width of the stripe to see the problem area. This low spot would definetly show after the final painting.


I can either spray and sand, or I can directly focus on this low spot. My choice is glazing putty, then block sand the glazing putty. After the block sanding of the glazing putty, then a coat of high build primer.


Now after the primer blocking. The stripe reflection now stays consistant all the way across.


Sometimes the issue isn't fixing the low spots, it's finding them in the first place. Moving the light back and forth didn't show this spot, it took a long flat reflection to expose it.

Ok, back to sanding.... Jim

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Stepside Jim

Auuurgh, still block sanding..... prime, block, prime, block.......

nice work on the interior seams
i didn't do them and wished i had, i see them every day
i was just so tired of your quoted text

i was unable to see or feel minor in's and out's when doing my body work
i could fix it when flaws were pointed out, just could find them
luckily i had lots of people to show me, too many people...

[Kim57]

That came out nice.
Kim

[Stepside Jim]

Still working on the idea of getting some of the seams smoothed the inside of the cab.

The only thing that makes this easier is having the cab laid on it's back.

[Kim57]

Looks nice.
I'll be doing mine also.
Kim

[Russell Ashley]

It looks much better when the seams are smoothed. Those seams are the sloppiest part of a TF. I know these were work trucks but I've always been a little surprised that they allowed them to leave the plant looking as sloppy as they usually do.

[Stepside Jim]

Thanks all, the worst part is sanding a convex panel such as the inside of the cab. It does look nice when done though.

_Ogre, oh the block sanding, it goes on and on and on.

Finding the problem areas can be tough, there two things I find that help.

One, after block sanding, wet the panel as if there is a clear coat on the primer, then start looking for reflection imperfections.

Second is a mind set. Instead of looking how good the panel looks, look for how bad the panel looks. It's about the only time I recommend a cup half full view.

Russell Ashley, how cool is it that they probably had no idea of what their "work trucks" are going to look like 40 or 50 years later.

Next up is the tail gate. My original is in pretty good shape, but it did get about 20 years of farm usage. Talking about sanding the inside of the cab is one thing, it's gonna take hours and hours to get the tailgate looking good enough to match the rest of the truck.

I took the easy way out, new tailgate..... I got it from Classic parts. There was a choice of the American or over seas unit. I went with the American, I must say, very nice unit. Fits perfect, nice and square, the whole thing is just a nice piece.

I do however have to cut away the chain brackets, drill the holes for the hidden hinges and make some cuts for the hidden linkage.


Just look at all the small dimples and dings I've saved time not having to deal with with the old one.

[Stepside Jim]

I've been putting in alot of hours on the truck, problem is...... it's the work that doesn't visually show progress, but it's all about refining. One thing I really focus on at this stage of a project is checking and rechecking how everything fits together. I don't want fitment problems after the paint is on.

One part of the project I've struggled with is the front grill. Dad perefered the 55 - 56 grill, it is a nice looking grill. I struggle with the idea that it is a 57, single year for this grill. Brothers had a sale on the 57 grill, not a big savings but it prompted me to order one.

Once it got here I put the cab back on the frame and assembled the front of the truck. I don't know if the original truck parts have been distorted from the past or the new grill is slightly off but I had to spend a couple of hours getting a near perfect fit. After all the work, it's in and I fitted it so there is some adjustment when final assembly happens.

[Kim57]

Looks real sharp.
My original 57 grill fits real tight in its opening.
Kim

[papastrk]

A guide coat over the gray primer will help you find the problem areas. Just lightly spray a black or red oxide mist coat over each panel. Don't try to completely cover the gray with it. You will find this works great. I won't block anything without it. Just remember you only need a very light (thinned down quite a bit) dusting of another color of primer over the gray primer. Hope this helps

[ChuckDriver]

Very nice! Gotta love the 57 grill!!

[Stepside Jim]

Kim, that tight fit situation was what I was trying to stay away from. It seems that no matter wow careful I am on final assembly I'm gonna scratch or bump an edge, grrrrr. Anymore when possible I try to find a way to create a very small gap where I can to remove as many chances of chippage.


papastrk, thanks for checking in. I've been down the guide coat sanding procedure many a time, and it works well. My showing of the wetting the primer and watching the reflection was a small confined area that was easy to show in a picture.


The wetting of the primer then watching the reflection really helps on large panels. Sometimes the panel will show good with the guide coat, but if the wave in the panel is spanning a large area the sandpaper will follow the wave and remove the guide coat giving the impression of a true flat surface. This wet and reflect concept is the next step after the guide coat procedure.

While I've got the Photobucket site opened up I'll take advantage. (Remember, I'm on dial-up here)

Still trying to smooth alot of the rough edges I'm moving to the firewall. I was able to straighten most of the seam but even with the straightening I needed to smooth the edge.


There wasn't much filler left after the sanding, but I guess that's the idea. Now a nice clean edge.


I know many have removed this seam, I really have no problem with the seam as long as it's straight.

[Russell Ashley]

You are doing some super fine work on that truck.

We might be in the minority on this forum, but I also think the firewall seam looks OK.

[Kim57]

The seam came out nice.
Kim

[ChuckDriver]

Looks much better with the seam!!

[Stepside Jim]

Ahhh, some seam likers just like me. I understand the idea of smoothing lots of stuff on these old trucks, but for me, it's the '50's, body lines, bumps and bulges, were a big part of the character of these old vehicles.

Although I'm taking care of many of he odds and ends, I've still been taking pictures and since I've got pictures, I'll keep posting them.

The hood is gonna be clear coat black top and bottom, I wanted to find a way to paint it all at one time. The very front edge will have a touch of silver but otherwise glossy black.

It would be huge plus if I can paint all at one time, no extra taping, no overspray, ect. In this case I attached to the front hood latch then a spacer between the chain and hood so can prime between the hood and chain. I plan on making a hanging bracket for paint day.

Hood after sandblasting and cleaning.


I understand the troubles of warping sheet metal such as this hood. It does such a great job plus, the last paint job was also stripped to metal. Problem was, they used no metal etching primer, they used lacquer based primer, it comes off very easy. This makes the sandblasting process go real fast, by going fast, I can eliminate most of the heat caused by blasting.

Now with one good coat of epoxy primer. After this primer dries about an hour I got 2 coats feather fill applied. All done in one evening, great.


To help stabilize the hood I also ran fine wire from the lower edges of the hood to the legs of the engine hoist.

[Roadkill58]

Looking good.

And one more use for the cherry picker

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Stepside Jim

I wanted to find a way to paint it all at one time.

i'm always amazed with your shop, one of my favorite shops

we paint a lot of stuff big and small on both sides by hanging everything with paint hooks
they are made of spring steel and very strong, we have 1000s around the shop of assorted sizes

you can hang a hood with 2 hooks going into bolt holes





in back of the bed you can see all the bed strips hanging from the ceiling



you'd probably have to buy 1000 at a time, but this site has free samples

ebay has 50- six inch hooks for $10