67-72 Electric speedo

[exploderjim]

Just bought a MPH one from eBay so not to worry. I'll return the KPH one and stick with the MPH. Might as well keep this as simple as possible. Let me know when the next order is coming up. Thanks Eric.

[71Frankenstein]

I would like 2 of those kits on your next order

[67c10rustbuket]

Well here is what I came up with guys. This is my production plate and box. First I will install these on a tin for Mike, follow along and details at the end if you are interested.

1. Cut speedo lump off of tin, pic compared to my first tin. Traced plate outline to show where you need to cut. You need to cut out more for the lights etc. like the first version.

2. Tin #2 cut out. I used a punch press but you can do just fine with a dremel.

3 & 4. new plate to be installed. use the existing 1/4" hex head screws from the volt and temp gauge assembly in existing holes in rear tin to mount the plate for proper alignment.

5. Plate installed with proper alignment using existing holes in tin.

[67c10rustbuket]

1. Center punch and drill 6 (or less, however many you think is necessary) .125" holes and install screws (I used phillips head #10? I think) They are the only holes that you can see the green paint on the tin.

2. Remove 3 1/4" hex head screws used for alignment. (one is still in place in the pic. woops.)

3. Install light bulbs. These are the originals but you will need wired light sockets of the same size.

4. Place the S10 speedo assembly onto the plate.

5. Place the clear S10 lens over and install the T15 Torx screws from the back side.

[67c10rustbuket]

1. Rear view of speedo, T15 screws installed.

2. Install S10 circuit board with T9 Torx screw. Why does GM use odd sized Torx screws ?? I bought a fold out multi Torx tool at lowes.

3. Notice the two holes under the speedo where the rear tin is clearanced ?? These are for the cover box

[67c10rustbuket]

1. Speedo box installs flush with the offset edge on the rear tin and in the holes mentioned in the plate.

2. Install two bottom box retaining screws.

3. Move to the top of the box and center punch and drill one more .125" hole and install screw.

4. volt /temp gauges reinstalled in original holes with the 3, original 1/4" hex head screws.

5. Pic of box installed..

[67c10rustbuket]

Notice there is a hole for a snap bushing to run your wiring through the box. The box fits very tight and will ride on the edges of the light bulb sockets. The box is a PITA to make and I spot welded the flanges together. There are small gaps etc, not perfect by any means but much better than beating a sheet over a table with a hammer

[67c10rustbuket]

A couple installed pics. This took me about 10 minutes to install, easy as pie

[67c10rustbuket]

So right now I have 5 sets ready to go, box and plate. I obviously cannot ship until next week due to the holiday and that little child birth event on tuesday. Please do not buy one if you do not already have the kit from LS1NOVA.

If you buy a kit from LS1NOVA I can make these for you. I can supply both pieces or just the plate. Just let me know what you need. Personally I dont see much need for the box as long as you have a windshield and/or you dont put your beer err I mean soda on the dash

First two are reserved for:
CJOHNSON
WGEYER
unless they pass

Note: I do not know or guarantee that this rear box will not interfere with an original tach. I did the best I could referencing pictures but without a tach on hand its a gamble.
I will design another version without the S10 odo reset and use LED light but this is it for now. I will be away from work for the next 5 weeks so I don't expect to have that anytime soon.

The plates will need some minor deburring (with a file) due to our turret press being an antique, cant wait for the new water jet to arrive also these plates may need to be clearanced slightly below the upper speedo mount hole and the right speedo mount hole (see arrows in pic). There are a few cosmetic issues I will fix later but nothing that causes any functional issues.

I attached a couple production pics just to show how these are made. The plates are easy I just shear a sheet to size and set up the machine and push a few buttons. The box on the other hand has to be formed on our press brake and then spotwelded together. A lot of time goes into that stinkin' box, arrrgh. The punched sheet of boxes is actually an old version if you happened to notice the difference.

So the deal... Technically I can do this "for personal use only" so I am not in the position to profit on this, rather just sharing with you guys what I was doing for myself anyway. Considering the cost of steel, countless hours in design development, 3d modeling design, CNC programming, machine set up, machine run time, "G job time" ( me off the clock making these)...So I will price this at $30 shipped to your door in the CONUS only. Or just the plate only for $10. The plates are .056" galvanized steel and the rear cover box is .032" galvanized steel. I can make them thicker or thinner, what ever works best. One condition, you must tell me your opinions, complaints, suggestions, and I will work with you guys to improve these. I get paid plenty and have no reason to capitalize off my fellow truck lovers.

[Captainfab]

Very nice work

[wgeyer88]

Dan,

Those kits look very neat! It looks like you've spent months on development to make these. I will definitely take one! Please PM me your detail and I'll get the funds over to you!

Thanks for sharing this with everybody!

-Will

[1970 C10 MJW]

dan put me down for one of those kits if you still ahve any left, or I will wait for the next batch... I do need to know where to send payment... I will send you a PM

[ls1nova71]

Wow Dan! What can I say, those look great! Congrats on the baby, and glad you weren't affected by the tornado, looks like it was pretty close to you.

One suggestion on the rear cover box though. I make the hole for the wires go all rhe way down so that you can remove it with everything all wired up. That way if you need to remove it to change a lighr bulb you don't have to unwire anything. The box is necessary to keep dust out of the speedo, it builds up faster than you would think!
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[cjohnson6772]

Dan. You sir are an artiste. I can't imagine why I wouldn't spend the $30 to avoid the headache and get a better piece than I would have made in the first place just lmk how to pay you. I will definitely take a plate and rear box. Also: keep me in mind if you figure out the whole no trip odometer quandary.
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[chuckmc8]

I will take one if available. I already purchased the kit from LS1nova.
Chuck

[Daaaanz67]

Been watching for awhile this is awesome stuff. I'd like one of those kits pending ls1nova conversion. Eric put me on your list please.
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[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Very nice work

Thanks! I must have done well if you think so. You make some awesome parts!

Originally Posted by 1970 C10 MJW

dan put me down for one of those kits if you still ahve any left, or I will wait for the next batch... I do need to know where to send payment... I will send you a PM

message sent.

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Wow Dan! What can I say, those look great! Congrats on the baby, and glad you weren't affected by the tornado, looks like it was pretty close to you.

One suggestion on the rear cover box though. I make the hole for the wires go all rhe way down so that you can remove it with everything all wired up. That way if you need to remove it to change a lighr bulb you don't have to unwire anything. The box is necessary to keep dust out of the speedo, it builds up faster than you would think!
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Thanks and thanks again! No damage here but many people we know and coworkers were affected.

Dang I see what you mean on the hole. I also noticed one possible flaw, a plastic snap bushing may interfere if pushed in from the outside. so you would have to install it from the inside and then it is in the way of the box mounting screw. I will have to change that. I will just have to run the wires through the hole without a snap bushing on this one. I see also once I put the whole thing together that the back of the cluster is quite dusty and the space around the speedo would allow dust inside the front of the cluster and make an ugly mess so a box is required.

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

Dan. You sir are an artiste. I can't imagine why I wouldn't spend the $30 to avoid the headache and get a better piece than I would have made in the first place just lmk how to pay you. I will definitely take a plate and rear box. Also: keep me in mind if you figure out the whole no trip odometer quandary.
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Thanks, message sent.

Originally Posted by chuckmc8

I will take one if available. I already purchased the kit from LS1nova.
Chuck

message sent Chuck, Thanks

Originally Posted by wgeyer88

Dan,

Those kits look very neat! It looks like you've spent months on development to make these. I will definitely take one! Please PM me your detail and I'll get the funds over to you!

Thanks for sharing this with everybody!

-Will

Message sent, Thanks


I would appreciate any feedback you guys have on these and will take suggestions on how to improve them.


All 5 plate/box sets are spoken for. I will run another batch in July if there is any demand for them. I do have one extra plate if anyone else is wanting to do this and I will get you a box first thing in July.

[chuckmc8]

Paypal sent. Thanks

[wgeyer88]

Payment sent!

Thanks again for doing this!

[cjohnson6772]

Payment sent. Thanks for an awesome product.
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[67c10rustbuket]

Is anyone trying this on a 3 hole dash? Just wondering before I send them out. The plate is too large to fit inside the rear tin. A 3 hole dash would require a different plate and box.
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[exploderjim]

I'll take a set if available.

[gringoloco]

Need a set, too. When they come around...
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[ChevyCruizer]

If there are any left I would like just a plate for the $10 deal. PM me payment info.

Thanks, John

[71Frankenstein]

I will take a set in July when they become available.
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