What Did You Do With Your Truck Today ?

[Purec4]

Finished the floors tonight and painted on the rust preventive. Hope to undercoat everything tomorrow.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by hsdropout

Well yesterday..........got epoxy primer on cab before the weather change.
Walmart spray booth, HF $9.99 spray gun.
Came out good for a rookie shoot.......IMHO.

looks good to me. primer is good practice.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by hsdropout

Well yesterday..........got epoxy primer on cab before the weather change.
Walmart spray booth, HF $9.99 spray gun.
Came out good for a rookie shoot.......IMHO.

dropout,
I think it looks fantastic. As a prospective rookie painter that just bought a set of (cheap) HVLP guns I am wondering if I can/should paint my own truck part-by-part in epoxy primer? On the HAMB, DP90 was recommended to me as a primer that I can drive around in for an extended time. But I understand its illegal to use in California. Someone else said to use DTP2590 (I THINK that's the number?) What brand/number of epoxy primer did you use? Was it a hassle?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Thanks Dan! I probably spent around 10 hours combined with the flapper disc and assorted wire brushes on a drill to clean the frame up, but my back would argue that it was more After using Eastwood rust converter where it was needed, I used Rust-Oleum black hammered from a rattle-can. Says it can be applied over rust and doesn't need primer. Turned out nice, and I really like the look, but the jury is out on how durable it is.

I saw another guy use Rustoleum black hammertone from a rattle can on his frame and it looked outstanding. I actually thought it looked like powdercoat and he claimed the more you put on it, the better it masked minor imperfections. I didn't see it but another guy used Rusto hammertone black from a can nad said it flowed out very nicely and left no brush marks so I think its become a somewhat known quantity. Thanks for the info.

[handyhands]

I got a steel on a set of 15x7 rally wheels, with a good set of tires. Only $250.
got out the tap and die and started cleaning the threads on the gas tank mounting bolt. Chassis is painted and ready to put it back together a little at a time.

[oletrux]

Been working on the '40 Ford coupe. Winter is nearly here, so today the truck got a short run, a wax, and covered. Rats.

[meter swinger]

Loaded the 59' on a trailer and hauled it off to get re-wired. Next stop muffler shop. Wish me luck.
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[hsdropout]

Thanks mknittle (howdy neighbor). Yes it was good practice...fear factor is pretty much gone now. Glad I got it done before temperature drop.


Dan, I used Omni epoxy MP170, catalyst MP175 (2:1), HET urethane reducer med. (as subsitute for acetone).
It was inexpensive and easily available (unlike many products in CA)
I got lucky guessing on how much to mix up per coat..............for reference, I mixed 10 oz. epoxy, 5 oz. catalyst and 4 oz. of the reducer (19 oz. total) and it was just the right amount for 1 coat on outside of cab (minus doors). Sprayed it, cleaned gun, let it set 'bout an hour and then gave it a second coat.
It was actually really easy and fun too. Go for it.

[Russell Ashley]

I blasted my vents and put new rubber seals on the doors. I found a local Vintage Air dealer and ordered an A/C setup that makes the right side vent door optional per their installation instructions. I am going to keep it operational though.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Looks good Russ. I've got those gaskets for the doors but haven' installed them yet. Did you use some kind of adhesive to hold them on?

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by hsdropout

Thanks mknittle (howdy neighbor). Yes it was good practice...fear factor is pretty much gone now. Glad I got it done before temperature drop.


Dan, I used Omni epoxy MP170, catalyst MP175 (2:1), HET urethane reducer med. (as subsitute for acetone).
It was inexpensive and easily available (unlike many products in CA)
I got lucky guessing on how much to mix up per coat..............for reference, I mixed 10 oz. epoxy, 5 oz. catalyst and 4 oz. of the reducer (19 oz. total) and it was just the right amount for 1 coat on outside of cab (minus doors). Sprayed it, cleaned gun, let it set 'bout an hour and then gave it a second coat.
It was actually really easy and fun too. Go for it.

the 'fear factor' will get you every time!It stops us from trying a lot of things.

[OrrieG]

35 degrees and snowing. reorganizing the garage so I can pull in the 64 chevelle when not driving and figuring out what I can do on the truck that does not involve painting. Going to try and finish up the ac and maybe wiring over winter.

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Looks good Russ. I've got those gaskets for the doors but haven' installed them yet. Did you use some kind of adhesive to hold them on?

Dan, the gaskets are sandwiched between the front and back parts of the vent door. The two are spot welded together and there is no adhesive holding the seals in. You have to carefully pry open the front and rear part of the door to remove the old seal and get the new one in. I used small vicegrips to hold them together while I was prying them open so as not to break the spotwelds. You only want to open the raised edge far enough to get the new seals in. After I got the new seals in I used a rubber mallet to tap the edges back closed. It's a job you don't want to do when you are in a hurry.

[mobileortho]

Feeling more confident with welding and bodywork.

[Purec4]

Got the area inside the seat mount fiberglassed in to get git of some minor rust spots. Hope to do the inside of the cab with bed liner tomorrow if all goes according to plan....

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oh thanks Russ. I'd have figured out to pry the parts but I'll bet I'd have broken the spot welds! Good tip.

[FFredo]

Not today but got the bed wood mocked up last week. I have fender wells coming next week. I still need to find what material I'll use for the strips I'm going to add to help it look s bit more like planks. I'm hoping to get the side gates done as right after I get the fender wells in.
I also need to bring the pumper up and in to tighten the look up a bit more.
After looking at options for after market tail lights I have not see anything that looks right, so I think I'm going to try to custom make a set.
I figure all I need is a cpl of tin cans, some wire.....

[Daze57]

hey dan

on those fresh air vents - i doused the rubber w/ dish soap and water really made it go in easier -( after the 3 rd set ) just work it carefully and slowly and it;ll work.

russ - your vents look great !

[Rude Dude]

Have you tried looking at the Truck Stop gas station like Flying J and such. They have some really nice LED lights that they use on Tractor Trailer Rigs and they are very reasonable prices for them.

Originally Posted by FFredo

Not today but got the bed wood mocked up last week. I have fender wells coming next week. I still need to find what material I'll use for the strips I'm going to add to help it look s bit more like planks. I'm hoping to get the side gates done as right after I get the fender wells in.
I also need to bring the pumper up and in to tighten the look up a bit more.
After looking at options for after market tail lights I have not see anything that looks right, so I think I'm going to try to custom make a set.
I figure all I need is a cpl of tin cans, some wire.....

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by FFredo

Not today but got the bed wood mocked up last week. I have fender wells coming next week. I still need to find what material I'll use for the strips I'm going to add to help it look s bit more like planks. I'm hoping to get the side gates done as right after I get the fender wells in.
I also need to bring the pumper up and in to tighten the look up a bit more.
After looking at options for after market tail lights I have not see anything that looks right, so I think I'm going to try to custom make a set.
I figure all I need is a cpl of tin cans, some wire.....

I need is a cpl of tin cans, some wire.....I thought that was tin cans and a string.

any way it looks good so far.But I would{just my opinion} get rid of the bumper and build one that blends in better. I think that would also make it easier to find taillights that you like. Don't go to the truck stops they are way overpriced and only sell whats popular. go somewhere like this

http://www.thelighthouseinc.com/asp/default.asp


No offense meant Rude Dude.

[BShort]

FFredo, your neighbors have some sweet rides! Can't wait to pick up those wheels this Saturday so I can check out all the rides!

Originally Posted by FFredo

Not today but got the bed wood mocked up last week. I have fender wells coming next week. I still need to find what material I'll use for the strips I'm going to add to help it look s bit more like planks. I'm hoping to get the side gates done as right after I get the fender wells in.
I also need to bring the pumper up and in to tighten the look up a bit more.
After looking at options for after market tail lights I have not see anything that looks right, so I think I'm going to try to custom make a set.
I figure all I need is a cpl of tin cans, some wire.....

[Dan in Pasadena]

Fredo,
That looks really good. As to the strips you're talking about; will they be on top of the wood to provide a protective "runner" for anything heavy you load on the bed or will you be routing a rabbit into the wood for the strip to sit down in? Either way, I'd say look for a narrow 1-1/2" or 2" strip of stainless so it won't rust, there'll be no need of paint that will only scratch off and rust and as a bonus you can polish the stainless and it'll look really nice. Just my $.02.

As for the rear bumper: maybe an El Camino bumper modified to fit your bed. I'll post a couple pix here but I'd suggest modifying to incorporate stock '55-59 step side lights INTO the bumper rather than the too long (in my opinon) later model lights. YMMV!

Looking forward to seeing the photos when the wheel wells and side stakes are in. Best, Dan

[mknittle]

LOL.I want to live in a neighborhood like that!

[FFredo]

Thanks for the input guys. First, the pic is not in my neighborhood. I was at a picnic put on by a local car club.
The bumper will flow a lot better once I cut the mounts to tuck it in closer to the frame. If not then I'll look at making a diff bumper fit. Dan, yeah I'm going with stainless 1 1/2 sounds about what I'm thinking too. Not sure if I'm going to rabit in a groove or not. All of that will decide it'self once I get the fender wells I guess.
I've looked at the truck stop lights and there are a few that are just ok. However I have had good luck making my own lights for my bikes so I'm going to give the truck lights a shot. Here's a pic of one I made for my home built bike. I used the parts from an old MAG-LITE and cut down my own lens out of your basic reflector sold at any auto parts store. It's filled with a 36 LED cluster and bright as all get out.
All I have to do is fab up the buckets. I'm going with a 2 1/2 OD lens frenched onto the frame of the bed. Two lights on each side.

[OrrieG]

Lowered the bed to match the cab accent line. Its still a little off on the drivers side but I am going to wait until I get the fenders and hood on so I only have to adjust the cab once.