Loadmaster '47 COE

[Dieselwrencher]

Rob, I'm glad to see the house damage isn't worse. It looks like if the tree fell back a little it could have been much worse.

[Eric Q.]

Hi Fasttoys

I just stumbled across your thread and we have similar projects although yours is much further ahead. I just recently acquired my donor vehicle. Similar to you, I bought a 2002 GMC Sierra with the 4.8 to go under my '50 GMC COE.

I read your post about modifying the LS wiring harness and have a question. It appears that a lot of folks modify the wiring harness or get a very basic harness to simplify the installation but doesn't that render all the cool features of the driver information center non-functional/absent?

Similarly, the aftermarket gauges that I've seen use their own sending units vs. the ones that come with the LS engine and send information to the ECU. Are folks disabling the ones that go the ECU or running in parallel and ignoring the factory signals?

My goal would be to use as much of the modern functionality as possible while making it not look modern.

Thanks for your input on these questions and can't wait to see your progress when you return to the states soon.

Eric Q.

[47 Fasttoys]

Hey Eric, To answer your questions, yes the typical mods to the wiring harness eliminate the the information center function. I did look hard into retaining it, as it does do a lot of neat things. In my case, and maybe yours, I could not find a good way to incorporate the donor dash into the '47 dash and make it look right. I tried photo shopping the gauge cluster in my dash but just didn't like the look. The donor cluster (with info center) has a complete printed circuit board lay out which would have to be completely modified and re-engineered to use the info center only. You would also have to keep the the body control module, lock system and column along with almost all of the stock sensors. Now the other option is to use one of the aftermarket info centers which have most of the same functions. These units plug into the OBD II port. I plan on using one of these and a flip down speaker grill mod. As far as retaining the factory sensors goes, some you need to keep. Temperature sensor is required, oil pressure is not, oil low level is not (hot rodders check their oil just because they can) Tach signal is required for the ECU, but ECU also has an output for an additional tach. For a basic 5 gauge lay out you would need only to add a second temperature sensor to the engine, swap the oil pressure sensor, use the VSS signal for the speedo (using an electronic speedo), swap the fuel level sensor and wire in a volt gauge.
I sure you will find there are lots of little challenges in building a COE but that's where the fun is. Post up some pictures of what you got. And by all means ask a ton of questions, we all have a lot to learn from each other. 62 days left, and yes, I'm counting.
Rob

[sparkydog]

47 Fasttoys - nice project! I encountered this same decision on my build and ended up striking a compromise. I was able to graft the backlit idiot light graphics out of the donor cluster but I too could not figure out a viable way to migrate the logic chips for some of the more advanced functionality of the donor cluster. If you want to study what I did (a lot of work) it starts at post #705 on my build thread which is linked in my siggy.

Looking forward to your return to the states and the progress on your build!

[47 Fasttoys]

OK, so I will be back on the truck in 3 weeks and I'm trying to come up with a basic plan of attack. Here is a list of the major work to be done. What I would like input on is in what order would be best. Below is my guess.
1. Final location fitting of the cab and mounts. It will be removed later for frame work.
2. Front sheet metal mounts and test fits.
3. Steering column choice and fitting.
4. Brake pedal choice and fitting. Early 70s Dodge van with 90 degree mount looks to be promising.
5. Seat choice and fitting.
6. Radiator location choice and fitting.
7. Seat choice and fitting. Late 80s Chevy bench is the goal.
8. Floor mods and access covers for engine maintenance.
9. Electrical component location and enclosure mock up.
10. Bed mounts and final decision on which type of bed. It will be a flat bed with fold down sides but it may also have a tilt function.
I'm thinking after these tasks are complete I can tear it all back apart for final frame welding and clean up, I will also be cleaning up the bottom of the cab and undercoating it. So what did I miss?
Rob

[99 to Life]

I think you got it pretty on point, maybe get seat moched up bf you do your pedals and steering, thats about all I'd suggest.

[Advanced Design]

With 99's suggestion I believe that covers the major items in a good sequence. Then all the other items..bumper, fuel tank, lines...Is the battery mount in the electrical center?
Hopefully your three weeks will go by quickly!

[47 Fasttoys]

At this point I'm not sure where I will put the battery. You make a good point on the seat , I will do that before the pedals and column. If I have an option on radiator placement, would you guys recommend behind the grill with an electric fan or under the cab using the original mechanical clutch fan?
Rob

[Advanced Design]

Where would the radiator have the best airflow?

[99 to Life]

yeah good point on the radiator. if worse comes to it, you could make air ducts to help get flow to the rad if its in a awkward position. The fan situation will be dependent on space. I think the Efan is the way to go for not only tight fit but why not gain a little extra performance by not running the mech fan. I don't think cooling will be any issue.

as for battery, I like having easy access to it. I put mine behind my seat, run a kill switch in the cab.

[ghettoluxury]

I would leave the radiator up front and use electric puller. That way you can still pop the hood and have your coolant tank at easy access. As far as the battery I think I would also mount it under the hood.

[47 Fasttoys]

OK, all good points. If I can fit the donor radiator behind the grill I will put it up front with electric fans. Because the sheet metal and grill mounting will be custom anyway due to the frame I can incorporate a mount system for the wider radiator. For the battery I'm thinking in a box mounted to the frame. With a flat bed I should have a lot of space to work with behind the cab.
Rob

[Billys68SS]

Battery closer to engine and all electronics= less wiring and potential for resistance build in battery cables. :-) My .02 worth. I like the idea of the larger radiator up front with an electric fan system so it can at least get some air while cruising and less demand on the fan.

[99 to Life]

I see what billy is saying and do agree, but if done right I don't foresee any problems. heck alot of drag cars have battery in back with the killswitch sticking out. Just need to run proper gauge wire. I think your build is a bit different than most of us whom aren't so fortunate to have a COE yet! You have alot more options or maybe less in some cases on where you can put stuff. I hope these next few weeks fly by. you home for good or just a break? may have missed that.

[47 Fasttoys]

Home for good, 3 years, 4 months, 15 days. It's a long time to be away with only short home visits. Its been a good adventure but I'm ready for it to end. Now it's time to enjoy some of the fruits of my labor. I've got a good start on the C.O.E. and now will have the time and a little cash to build it right. I expect to have it road worthy with a modern drive train,modern suspension, restored interior and basically a dependable daily driver/work truck in around six to eight months for around 20K. That puts me in the middle of next summer for a 2 to 3 week road trip across America. I've done this in a '31 Oakland 3 window street rod, a '69 Mercury Cougar and my '46 1/2 ton hauling a pop-up. By far some of the greatest times that can be had in this great country of ours.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

While we're on the subject of E-fans. I understand the later Silverados used E-fans. Does anyone know if the radiator is the some size on the 2003 verses the 2007 or newer Silverados? or on what year they switched?
Thanks,
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

OK, so I quit being lazy, it looks like the radiator is the same from '99 to 2012 and the E-fans started in 2005 so a trip the to the junk yard should solve the E-fan issue when the time comes.
Rob

[Advanced Design]

Love the road trip plans for the truck! Was thinking about your build and wondering if there would be any coolant flow issues? Probably not...many vehicles have been built with radiator away from the engine.

[47 Fasttoys]

I'm back!!!! Not wasting any time I just had to do something on it after the return early this morning. I did end up clipping the frame horns off right behind the round cross tube (not shown) to see how the grill was going to line up. I also had to remove the support structure from behind the grill. I'll build one that is much closer to the grill and a bit shorter. I also came to the realization I will need to raise the front of the cab about 2 inches. I just don't have enough clearance for the front tires. I will also need to swap to a smaller tire. Anyway, a few pictures. Jet lag has set in big time and I need a nap. Great to be back.
Rob

[99 to Life]

glad to see you back on it. jet lag sux. can't wait to see some more progress.

[Advanced Design]

Awesome, welcome back! Gotta be a great feeling. Looking forward to frequent and fast updates.

[47 Fasttoys]

OK, so today I rebuilt the front body mounts. I ended up raising the front 1 1/2 inches to give some more tire clearance. It's fine for the inside now but I will need to change tires for the fender clearance. I tacked things in place and then removed the body to install plates on the rear and final welding. Boy, I really need to figure out how to set this camera up.
Rob

[99 to Life]

glad to see some progress, looks good. are you using a camera or a cell phone?

[47 Fasttoys]

So, for this morning I shortened the brake line, it was originally mounted to the frame piece I removed. I also remounted the cab and just for kicks pulled the tube which was used to set ride height and dropped it down to see how low it could go. This view is against the bump stop with a tall tire. For sure I could drop it to the bumper with some minor mods. I also installed the drive shaft (just the rear). It looks like it will work good. This is what happens when you wake up at 3:00 due to big time changes. Oh, and I think I got the camera thing figured out, date is still off.
Rob

[401ton]

Thanks for posting pics, but especially thanks for fixing the camera thing!