51 Chevy 1/2 ton, My S10 swap

[pinecrest]

Do you feel even a little bit guilty about using a lift? NOT FAIR!!!! hehe.

Looking good!!

[oldman3]

Starting to take shape...Jim

[cleanshaven84]

I'm enjoying seeing this one come together. You're making some good headway. Keep it up!

[99 to Life]

attommik, glad I could help. Pics are always a bit deceiving but I thought I mention it. It is such a great feeling moching everything up. Makes you feel like its an actual truck. I got front 1.5" aluminum spacers of egay for like 70 bucks. I'm running 2" in the back. Great progress keep it up. Def nice to have someone help with adjusting cab and hood etc. Sux all alone, but atleast you got a lift, wow would that have made my life easier, and others. anyway, things are really shaping up, lastly def helps to have the bed and rear fenders so you get a happy medium with your wheel wells, also engine and trans too, so you can see where the dist meets the firewall, where your shifter will be and your rad to waterpump clearance.

[Atommik]

More parts fit up this weekend. Spent quite a while getting the hood lined up. Almost finished with all the front sheet metal fit up!!

Also got some tires, so I had them mounted and balanced on my painted IROC wheels! Still need to get chrome lug nuts and some kind of center cap.

[oldman3]

Looking good....Jim

[skymangs]

Looking good brother. someday hopefully my son's
will be at that stage!

[BlueJeep]

Looking good!

[xpickup]

Atommik, Looks great. Fitment looks great on everything too.

Shannon

[sevt_chevelle]

Duraglass is a product name, made by USC if I remember right. Duraglass is a short stranded fiberglass reinforced body filler. Typically used as a base coat over welded joints then finished off with regular body filler.

[Atommik]

Exactly...As sevt chevelle said. I always put a thin coating of duraglass over any weld that will be filled over with regular body filler. I feel it helps to keep the regular filler from "shrinking" after the area has been painted. Also if there are any tiny pin holes in my welds that I didn't see, the duraglass will fill them nicely. I also try to clean off the back side of my welds where ever I can access them. Then apply a coating of etch primer and seam sealer to seal out any moisture.

[68gmc780]

Another question,sorry, in post 106 you sealed the body seam with panel bonding adhesive.Is this the belt line you sealed? I've read where others have welded this seam.I'm assuming that the panel bonding adhesive is sandable,paintable,etc.Is that correct or does it require some other treatment to make it primable/paintable?

[Atommik]

Yes, I did use "panel bond" or panel adhesive in the cab seam. I cleaned the seam as thouroughly as possible with a grinder and a small sand blaster. Then I applied the panel bond and forced it into the seam as much as possible. I wiped off the excess and let it harden. After it was dried, I sanded down any extra panel bond that was left visible, basically leaving only the small amount that went into the seam. As far as paint/ primer prep is concerned, as far as I know, no special care is needed. Check the label on the panel bond you use.

I also use it to seal the back side of welds, and my cab floor is bonded and riveted down to the cross braces I made for the cab. It's great stuff!! 3M makes a good one as well as Kent. Our shop also uses Norton adhesives and they work well too.

It's a 2 part epoxy based adhesive. Depending on the brand you buy, you may need to buy a applicator gun. Most come as a side by side "auto mix" cartridge. It mixes in the nozzle as you squeeze it out.

[mknittle]

i am looking forward to seeing that color in the natral light. looks great!

[blacklistcustoms]

Not to hijack the thread but the 4X4 rear axles are wider than the 2wd axle by 5" and wont require spacers for the wheels, should just swap in from what im told- hope it may help too.-Nate

[99 to Life]

s-10 4x4 rear end will still need spacers. I'm running 2" spacers

[Atommik]

I'm planning on the 4X4 axel swap and planning on using spacers. I suppose the back space amount of your wheels, and how you want the wheel to fit in the fender, are all factors in deciding on spacers...

Mounted the brake booster and master cylinder on Sat. Also replaced all the front brake lines. Safety first!!

[blacklistcustoms]

Well......?

[Atommik]

I called the guy I got my frame from, and he is getting me a s10 4x4 rear axle. Should be delivered next week. Not much time for the truck the next couple of weekends, too much other stuff going on and mandatory overtime at work!

[99 to Life]

glad to hear. not glad to hear about the OT, but hey not a lot of people can't even
get OT, let alone build their own truck.

[Atommik]

Nothing too exciting...Here's a couple of pics of my booster and master cylinder install from a couple weeks ago...(In case you noticed, the steering shaft made from electical conduit IS TEMPORARY!!)

[chevyboy73]

sweet and my favorite color! good luck!

[not2oldchevy]

Booster and mcyl looks like a real good fit, what is it out of? Thanks

[skymangs]

x2 on the booster and master. Also would like to know what your brake pedal assembly came out of. It looks a lot lower on the firewall than the setup I am mocking up right now. I'm using a 70 C10 pedal assy. and a 91 S10 booster/master.

[98layinframe]

Looks exactly like the master and booster that's stock in s10's up until 97. Ive got atleast 3 laying around.
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